Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

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Old 08-01-2011, 05:38 PM
  #20501
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ORIGINAL: mschulz531


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ORIGINAL: clytle374
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ORIGINAL: earlwb

I wonder if they changed the plastic formula or something. I have been using one for maybe 20 some odd years and it works Ok for me. This last weekend I used it on a Enya 1.20 I had just fixed back up.
I think a length of garden hose shoved down onto a length of wood dowl rod would work good too. Maybe glue it on a little to keep it from moving.
I think the problem is if the engine passes some certain displacment size then trying to use a chicken stick on it becomes a problem, so you might be better off using a welder's leather glove instead.
Yep they changed the formula, the dowel is now plastic. Been looking around for a better stick and found this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...0&I=LXC019&P=K funny thing is they state for up to 14'' props. I've got a 15'' prop, but not sure why that matters exactly.

I realized we have an old Royal starter that feels to have much more power. I also remember they used to sell a belt reductions for starters, I can't find one now. They do have starters with belt reductions, but are real expensive.

I might try the welding glove, if I could reliably prime it, and not break my fingers. I hate broken fingers.

Cory
I found a glove in my garage with just the right amount of padding; I've been using it and it works great.
If I ever decide to use a stick again, I'll make my own from a section of thick dowel rod and a piece of garden hose.
-Mike

Hi
This is the first time I have posted in this form .

Have you guys ever heard of the ALign starter , Reducded RPM and 5 times the torq of a regular starter . Runs off a 3 cell lipo , 2200 mah . Beats that 24 volt starter any day . 1 charge lasts ?,........... I,ve gone through 4 gallons of fuel and haven,t recharged as of yet this summer .

This starter , gets my best buy this summer ( except when I forget it at home )[:@] ( this happened once )

But ,........ I,m sure you already know all this .

Michel
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:01 PM
  #20502
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Here's what I start my Saito 30 with . . .

It is a Sullivan Dynatron and a Miller 4:1 reduction with two 12V batteries in series



If I have trouble with that starter, I carry a spare Sullivan Megatron that I can hook up to my truck battery with jumper cables attached




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Old 08-01-2011, 07:16 PM
  #20503
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I totally agree, the Align starter is amazing. I've used it on as large as the FG30 with no difficulties. Light - 875 grams (1 pound 15 oz) with the 2200 mH 3 cell LiPo and powerful. The endurance (duration) is just as notable.

I bought it because I was tired of fubling with the Sullivan on my Align 600N and now use it exclusively. Have not had a chance to try it on the FG-57 Twin but expect it to work as long as I start the process on the other side of TDC.

jimm
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:23 PM
  #20504
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The old Royal starter i dug up starts the 100 without any trouble. I guess the super cheap, and old, Tower starter wasn't up to the task.

I also readjusted the valves since they were quite loose, then set the low speed needle correctly. I got the idle down to around 2200. Not sure if I picked up any rpm on the top end since the tach seems to be failing(also really old) and wouldn't read over 5K in the low light of dusk.

Cory
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:46 AM
  #20505
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One issue with the electric starters, is people may be using batteries that are not up to providing enough current or power to drive the motor on a larger engine. For example using a 7 amp-hour sealed GLA battery may not be able to provide enough current for the motor. It is like trying to start a big Cadillac V8 engine with a little Volkswagon car battery. 
But my standard Sullivan starter is barely able to drive a 1.20 four stroke engine. I have to get the prop just past TDC and then it usually is just able to get the engine to swing through to start. So I should be using a little larger heavy duty starter motor myself. But I do have a 9 amp-hour motorcycle battery in the flight box. Albeit the flight box is a back breaker to carry around.

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Old 08-02-2011, 04:48 AM
  #20506
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I can't believethe pictures i've just seen above you guys are kidding or way out of my league,i could'nt even lift one of those things.They got a quick release chuck right? so you can pop a masonery drill bit in it on the weekend and bore some holes in the concrete at home for kicks yes? my plain jane rotostart winds the 220 over fine
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:58 AM
  #20507
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart

I can't believethe pictures i've just seen above you guys are kidding or way out of my league,i could'nt even lift one of those things.They got a quick release chuck right? so you can pop a masonery drill bit in it on the weekend and bore some holes in the concrete at home for kicks yes? my plain jane rotostart winds the 220 over fine
These guys use them for weight training on the side.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:03 AM
  #20508
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The funny thing is that if you are trying to start a large glow four-stroke, all you need to do is to prime it properly, flip the prop several times with no glow heat, then, after applying glow heat, fling the prop back against compression and the engine will start, nearly each and every time. No starter needed.


Ed Cregger
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:19 AM
  #20509
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ORIGINAL: NM2K

The funny thing is that if you are trying to start a large glow four-stroke, all you need to do is to prime it properly, flip the prop several times with no glow heat, then, after applying glow heat, fling the prop back against compression and the engine will start, nearly each and every time. No starter needed.


Ed Cregger
Yep, on the bench it starts every time. In a cowl where I can't see it to prime it effectively, it seldom starts.

Cory
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:01 AM
  #20510
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Prime it holding your finger over the exhaust, as mentioned above, with the throttle fully open. Once is usually enough.

I have a love of my fingers, so I use a starter. I've used a Sullivan Dynatron with 24 volts to start my Saito 1.80 with no problem (no reduction drive at the time). Of course I replaced the starter leads with underground wire used in home outdoor lighting, which I obtained from a local home improvement store. It really helps to go to larger starter leads to avoid the drop in amperage with smaller wire.

My Sullivan starter, 24 volts of battery power, with a Miller Persuader starts everything I have, including an O.S. 3.2 four cylinder and ASP 4.00 radial. It has also been used on large gas engines over 80cc's.

The picture below shows the starter with the original switch bought at a local auto parts store. It didn't hold up. The contacts burned, so I replaced it with another from Performance Plus Connection in North Carolina obtained on the web, that has triple the capacity.

Bob

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Old 08-02-2011, 09:04 AM
  #20511
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I have an old Hobbico starter that I strapped a 12 V sealed lead acid battery with short leads. Can the standard Hobbico or similar starters take 24 Volts?
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:13 AM
  #20512
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Most of these style starters will take up to at least 20 volts for the very short bursts that we use to start an engine. I regularly run mine on a 4S LiPo battery (makes a very lightweight self-contained unit which delivers 16.8v when fully charged) that spins the starter motor a little faster and readily insures good starting results all the way up to a Saito 2.20 sized engine.

Now if you run the starter motor repeatedly for anything longer than about 5 seconds a time the failure point in these starter motors are the plastic brush housings. If you heat up the brushes from extended running with no cool down periods the brushes will stick inside the brush housing and then the motor will stop working. A relatively easy thing to fix if you take your starter apart, providing you have 6 hands to try and get the brushes - springs, rotors, caps etc all aligned and in at the same time.

Bottom line - if you run the starter for the typical starting period of 1-2 seconds the higher voltages work great. If you are having trouble starting your engine then I would look elsewhere in your starting operation for improvement (i.e. better priming procedure, etc.)

I hope this helps.

Pete
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:46 AM
  #20513
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Pete Bergstrom

Most of these style starters will take up to at least 20 volts for the very short bursts that we use to start an engine. I regularly run mine on a 4S LiPo battery (makes a very lightweight self-contained unit which delivers 16.8v when fully charged) that spins the starter motor a little faster and readily insures good starting results all the way up to a Saito 2.20 sized engine.

Now if you run the starter motor repeatedly for anything longer than about 5 seconds a time the failure point in these starter motors are the plastic brush housings. If you heat up the brushes from extended running with no cool down periods the brushes will stick inside the brush housing and then the motor will stop working. A relatively easy thing to fix if you take your starter apart, providing you have 6 hands to try and get the brushes - springs, rotors, caps etc all aligned and in at the same time.[img][/img]

Bottom line - if you run the starter for the typical starting period of 1-2 seconds the higher voltages work great. If you are having trouble starting your engine then I would look elsewhere in your starting operation for improvement (i.e. better priming procedure, etc.)

I hope this helps.

Pete
Thanks Pete, that is helpful.
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:52 PM
  #20514
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I agree with Old Fart and I am not into weight lifting.  Methinks the use of those devces only masks the fact the engine is not properly set up.  I mainly use a starter because I wish to keep my body intact.  I even have an electric starter for the Cox 049 and starting it is fun considering the Cox spins faster when running than the starter.
For the record on all my 4 strokes I back the prop off TDC (compression stroke) to allow the starter some "build up" before it gets to compression.  I also pre prime by blocking off the exhaust pipe (in engines running crank case pressure) and turn the prop over a couple of times before attaching the glo and starter.  Also to prevent glo burn out I back off the rheostat on the glo driver after every engine start and adjust accordingly at every start
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:28 PM
  #20515
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I have a Saito 125a that set-up for awhile. When I took it out to run it, it didn't seem to run at the RPMs I thought it should. So being the good little boy I am I took it apart and cleaned it up good and put it back together. Now the engine will only turn about 8600 rpm with a 16/6 APC using 30% fuel. I have
another 125a that will turn about 9400 rpm with a 16/6 APC using 30% fuel. Did I miss the timing ? How do you know on a Saito anyway. To me it looks like you plug and pray.
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:30 PM
  #20516
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To check cam timing . . .

Remove both valve covers

Find top dead center of the piston on the compression stroke by feeling for the dead point

Turn crankshaft 360 degrees or one full turn

If the cam is correct, both rocker arms will be even with each other, one is almost closed and the other is almost open. This point will be about 5 degrees before top dead center.

With the carb open, you can also blow through the muffler and air will come out the carb at this point.
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:31 PM
  #20517
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I was thinking that if the cam timing is looking good, then maybe the valve adjustments are off. Too large of a gap can cause a power loss too.
wow! 30% nitromethane in the fuel, sheesh, I find 5% suits my engines just fine. I used to use 25% and 30% or more for pylon racing years ago, not sport flying.
it has me wondering if you have some detonation going on or not.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:49 PM
  #20518
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If you did bearing replacement (or even took them out of the engine and re used) check the crankshaft alignment.  If it is not properly aligned you will get a drop in RPM
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:56 PM
  #20519
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Ealwb no detonation just a fast engine.  That fuel mix is used for duration (vertical drag racing) events.  Check out the SAM site for more data on this and also The Vintagents and SAM 84 sites.  Tells you a bit about my compatriots and the things we get up to.
BTB standard Duration fuel for an OS 61 is 60% nitro and the YS 53 and 63 is 40% plus depending on the prop.  Not recommended for the faint hearted
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:51 AM
  #20520
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ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Ealwb no detonation just a fast engine. That fuel mix is used for duration (vertical drag racing) events. Check out the SAM site for more data on this and also The Vintagents and SAM 84 sites. Tells you a bit about my compatriots and the things we get up to.
BTB standard Duration fuel for an OS 61 is 60% nitro and the YS 53 and 63 is 40% plus depending on the prop. Not recommended for the faint hearted
Obviously, nitro is cheaper in Australia.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:15 AM
  #20521
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Ealwb no detonation just a fast engine. That fuel mix is used for duration (vertical drag racing) events. Check out the SAM site for more data on this and also The Vintagents and SAM 84 sites. Tells you a bit about my compatriots and the things we get up to.
BTB standard Duration fuel for an OS 61 is 60% nitro and the YS 53 and 63 is 40% plus depending on the prop. Not recommended for the faint hearted
Oh, OK, so you guys were doing something similar to pylon racing then.

I have seen some folks using 30% for sport flying, so it had me a wondering.
Thanks

I got to thinking about it, and if you took the engine apart, you likely disturbed the piston ring and it now doesn't match the cylinder bore. So you probanly need to wait until the ring gets seated into its new position in the cylinder.


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Old 08-05-2011, 04:42 AM
  #20522
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A saito 30 on 55% sounds like a full size harvard prop tips on fly bye mate
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Old 08-05-2011, 05:46 AM
  #20523
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: earlwb

Quote:
ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Ealwb no detonation just a fast engine. That fuel mix is used for duration (vertical drag racing) events. Check out the SAM site for more data on this and also The Vintagents and SAM 84 sites. Tells you a bit about my compatriots and the things we get up to.
BTB standard Duration fuel for an OS 61 is 60% nitro and the YS 53 and 63 is 40% plus depending on the prop. Not recommended for the faint hearted
Oh, OK, so you guys were doing something similar to pylon racing then.

I have seen some folks using 30% for sport flying, so it had me a wondering.
Thanks

I got to thinking about it, and if you took the engine apart, you likely disturbed the piston ring and it now doesn't match the cylinder bore. So you probanly need to wait until the ring gets seated into its new position in the cylinder.




I'm with Earl on this one. This is why engines should not be taken apart just on a whim.


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Old 08-05-2011, 06:00 AM
  #20524
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hey guys, guess it's time to join!!!

I've have two Saito 150's that have been residing in their boxes for years, waiting for me to finish my Ziroli B-25.... recently bought a second-hand Great planes Sukhoi SU-31 with a a Saito 320 in it... replaced the bearings to be on the safe side, an the beast fired right up!! flies the plane with authority, nice combo!!

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Old 08-05-2011, 10:43 AM
  #20525
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Ealwb no detonation just a fast engine. That fuel mix is used for duration (vertical drag racing) events. Check out the SAM site for more data on this and also The Vintagents and SAM 84 sites. Tells you a bit about my compatriots and the things we get up to.
BTB standard Duration fuel for an OS 61 is 60% nitro and the YS 53 and 63 is 40% plus depending on the prop. Not recommended for the faint hearted
"Vertical drag racing" is quite a good description of LER duration events, be they FF or RC.[8D]

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