Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 04-10-2012, 02:17 AM
  #21851
w8ye
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I just take my engine to the hardware store and they have a little selection box of O-rings. I pick one that looks about right.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:01 AM
  #21852
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I have two Saito .82s and I am now curious as to where the Viton O-ring is on the engine> I have never replaced one.

Thanks in advance for the enlightenment.

Dave
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:07 AM
  #21853
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At the junction of the intake manifold and the head.

The O-ring is known to give trouble on the older 72's. Not so much trouble on the 82's

The problem was the plastic back plate on the early models. The back plate would flex and cause the intake manifold to vibrate at the junction with the head - destroying the O-ring causing a intake manifold leak.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:44 AM
  #21854
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Thanks, my 82s are a couple of years old and I will replace the o rngs next time I do any maint.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:21 PM
  #21855
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>>> I just take my engine to the hardware store and they have a little selection box of O-rings. I pick one that looks about right. >>>

Are those Viton (high temp) o-rings or are you getting by with regular ones? And are you getting metric at the hardware store or finding standard sizes that look about right? Seems like it might? be better just to take an old o-ring into the store than the whole engine?

Thanks,

Ernie
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:37 PM
  #21856
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The 82 gasket set is only $4.50 but if all you need is the Viton O-ring you would soon wind up with lots of extra gaskets.

What all is needed to replace the plastic backplate on the 82 with this newer aluminum one? Just the backplate? It is $9.50 which isn't bad.

FA-82B Rear Cover: AB, RRby Saito Engines (SAI82B17)

Thanks,

Ernie Misner
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:50 AM
  #21857
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Does anyone know where to find a torque/HP chart or graph for Saito engines? I'm thinking it might help in finding usable props. I've noticed a big difference in the way people prop their engines. I like to keep them in the high nines to low tens static. My 1.80 is turning low nines on the ground which I think is good. I've seen from 8500 to 10500 on my .40a on the test stand, and I can't help but wonder if it would be happy with that heavy of a load. It turned the 8500 with a MA-k prop at 12x6. The thing that was interesting is that even though the spoolup was on the slow side, it would turn that prop at 7500 rpm at only 1/2 throttle or so. Only the last 1000 rpm seemed to make it work. And this was with only one hour of total run time. It would be interesting to see that power chart to see where it makes power.
I have some new props coming since I'm looking for a prop for an E-flight Beaver conversion project I've had idle on a shelf for a while. I'll let you all know what I find.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:22 AM
  #21858
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rexracer

Does anyone know where to find a torque/HP chart or graph for Saito engines? I'm thinking it might help in finding usable props. I've noticed a big difference in the way people prop their engines. I like to keep them in the high nines to low tens static. My 1.80 is turning low nines on the ground which I think is good. I've seen from 8500 to 10500 on my .40a on the test stand, and I can't help but wonder if it would be happy with that heavy of a load. It turned the 8500 with a MA-k prop at 12x6. The thing that was interesting is that even though the spoolup was on the slow side, it would turn that prop at 7500 rpm at only 1/2 throttle or so. Only the last 1000 rpm seemed to make it work. And this was with only one hour of total run time. It would be interesting to see that power chart to see where it makes power.
I have some new props coming since I'm looking for a prop for an E-flight Beaver conversion project I've had idle on a shelf for a while. I'll let you all know what I find.
The Toni Clark website has links to all the Saito engine's tech data that include the info you are seeking. Good luck.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:40 PM
  #21859
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I looked at his site and didn't see any Saito links, or any links for that matter. Maybe I was in the wrong place? Got a link?
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:53 PM
  #21860
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I don't know of Saito stuff on the Toni Clark site but there are a lot of zenoah and DA stuff there.

The Saito stuff is on the Saito info site that belongs to brent Watkins http://saito-engines.info/
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:41 PM
  #21861
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>>> What all is needed to replace the plastic backplate on the 82 with this newer aluminum one? Just the backplate? It is $9.50 which isn't bad. >>>

Has anyone put the alum. backplate on their older 82????

Thanks,

Ernie
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:06 AM
  #21862
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I've put that same plate on my .72 to replace the plastic one. Same part.
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:25 AM
  #21863
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I'm still running plastic on both my old round cam case 82s,just do what w8ye says re o rings
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:49 AM
  #21864
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Guys I need some expert advice please...

I have a 72 that runs fair, but not great like I remember saitos to run..One of the things I noticed on mine is the fuel spray I get in the cowl, I am assuming it is from the carb and not normal.. After a couple flights it will drip un burned fuel, it's thick fuel, not fresh from a leak in the line. I replaced all the plumbing on it and installed it in a new plane. I went from and inverted position to side mounted and still get this problem...

I decided to fixs this problem last night and this has me confused... In the pic in the manual it says to check the gap between the idle screw and spray bar, it should be 1mm.. I looked at mine and this is whatI seen.. The lowend needle is on the right in the pic, is the opening in the spraybar upsidedown, or is there supposeto be a visible gap between the two.. Fromwhat they say in the manual, if I am reading it right, there should be a gap...

I was thinking my fuel mix on the idle is to rich and that's why I have so much fuel dripping, what is the factory set on the idle needle? My high end is only open 1 3/4 turns to get it to run right...

Jimbo
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:44 AM
  #21865
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Stanger, pull the carb and see if yours has the sleeve over the spraybar type of LS mixture adjustment.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:09 AM
  #21866
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Stanger, pull the carb and see if yours has the sleeve over the spraybar type of LS mixture adjustment.

Thanks for the pic. Just got in from my LHS and will go take it off now.. Would the low end on a very rich setting cause me to get so much unused fuel all over the place as well as have the high end in so far into get a good run? I got this motor used and should have went over all of it before I put it in a plane..

Thanks for any help guys..

Jimbo
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:12 PM
  #21867
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Jimbo, Saitos will spit fuel out of the carb. The velocity stack cut my mess down to almost nothing on my 72.
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:52 PM
  #21868
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: blw

Jimbo, Saitos will spit fuel out of the carb. The velocity stack cut my mess down to almost nothing on my 72.
Do tell blw......

Where is a good source for them?


I took the carb off and this is where it was set.. Should the slit be in the center of the carb, or is it fine off set like it is? It also looks like more then 1mm, I closed it some in the second pic.. I know that I will have to fine tune it, is the manuals way of doing it the best way to set the low end?


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Old 04-13-2012, 01:39 PM
  #21869
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Horizon sells the optional stack. The same one fits most sizes all the way up to the 125 as I recall. I had the LHS order mine from Horizon for me, no shipping cost. Anyone have a part number handy?

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Old 04-13-2012, 02:05 PM
  #21870
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ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner

Horizon sells the optional stack. The same one fits most sizes all the way up to the 125 as I recall. I had the LHS order mine from Horizon for me, no shipping cost. Anyone have a part number handy?

Ernie Misner
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http://www.advantagehobby.com/26418/...93/?quantity=1
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Old 04-13-2012, 02:28 PM
  #21871
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Thanks SrTelemaster. I do like the idea of the spit back being contained within the confines of the stack rather than making a mess. They should be included with the engine purchase.

Ernie Misner
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:10 PM
  #21872
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Thanks guys, appreciate the help...

I am also changing the "O" ring that seals the intake manifold to the carb, mine was not tight at all. I will head to the hardware store in the morning and get a new ring.. I got the V stack ordered from my LHS...

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Old 04-13-2012, 03:35 PM
  #21873
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner

Thanks SrTelemaster. I do like the idea of the spit back being contained within the confines of the stack rather than making a mess. They should be included with the engine purchase.

Ernie Misner
Quote:
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40

Thanks guys, appreciate the help...

I got the V stack ordered from my LHS...[img][/img]

I'm ordering 1 for my FA 91 when I place a large order W/Advantage Hobbies.

I agree, they should have included it like on the large singles.

It should help W/fuel consumption too. All that fuel being sprayed into the atmosphere will now be pulled back into the engine. I would think the needle will need to be leaned down a bit after the "V" stack is employed.
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:08 PM
  #21874
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I just bought a used 100. It's got good compression and seems in good shape except for being a little dirty and having a lot of carbon on the exhaust valve stem when I look into the exhaust port. Is there anyway to de-carbon the engine without disassembling it? It is supposed to be relatively new and I don't want to reseat the ring. Kind thinking someone ran a high ratio of castrol oil in it.

Thanks
Cory
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:43 PM
  #21875
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Some Golden Knight models come with them.
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