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  1. #21901
    Old Fart's Avatar
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    You still got that big hammer?
    Watch out for the ground eh?

  2. #21902
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    To remove the crankshafts, I use a short scrap piece of 4x4 hardwood as a anvil. I heat up the crankcase using a Hakko heat shrink tubing gun, and with a, big brass hammer, I tap the crank on out of the engine. Sometimes the bearings pop out sometimes not. I tnen use a 1/4 brass rod with a lip on one end to tap the bearings out (after reheating the crankcase up good again). I need to wear leather gloves for the hot engine too. Putting a nut on the tip of the crankshaft to help protect the threads is a good idea.


    Club Saito #722, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #80, GlowHead Brotherhood #14,
    AMA # 928076

  3. #21903

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Old Fart, yes I have the big hammer and itstill does good service.  As an aside I purchased a JR 9X 11 2 years ago with a 2.4 gig conversion (spectrum) used it at the comp and I won't go back to the others I have been using (A Spectrum DSX7 and a JR 2720) not that they are bad just that the 9x is good with the best of both worlds 36mhz and 2.4 gig.
    The Saitos worked well at the comp and by far were the most popular and now if the "idiots" stop leaning them out to excess we might see some real performance and maybe not so many broken ones
    IC forever
    Club Saito member 710

  4. #21904
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    ORIGINAL: Old Fart

    You still got that big hammer?

    I have a pre-WWII BFBH one myself. Great for when the engine irks me a little. I normally use it to change the wheel bearings out in my Harley though.



    Club Saito #722, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #80, GlowHead Brotherhood #14,
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  5. #21905
    Old Fart's Avatar
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Well i guess it was me that just got hammered.As an aside and with the exchange rate still good i bought a jr9503,stiffer sticks than the old dsx7 and took some getting used to but i did'nt mind that.No expo on the throttle curve for my saito engines when flying so it helps when you want to throttle them up gently while flying.

    Do americans indulge in putting big props on small fourstrokes or do they just hold world series competitions for sports that are only conducted over there?
    Watch out for the ground eh?

  6. #21906
    Moderator Hobbsy's Avatar
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Is this what you call large, a Bolly 10.5x5 on a Saito .30? It turns at 10,200 on 15% WildCat Premium Extra.
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    Farmall 240 the final issue of the Farmall C, Super C, 200, 230 series.
    122 Cu. In. 22 hp. A small tractor that would do big work due to its 10x36 inch rear tires.

    As competition improves products, the differences between them get smaller and smaller

    Club Saito member #5

  7. #21907
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    That's a pretty setup Hobbsy! What type of fuel filter is that with a bowl?

    Thanks,

    Ernie

  8. #21908

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    How is the balance with only half of a prop on there ????? .......

    or is that an obstical seclusion ???? ( good settup)......

  9. #21909
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


    ORIGINAL: Old Fart

    Well i guess it was me that just got hammered.As an aside and with the exchange rate still good i bought a jr9503,stiffer sticks than the old dsx7 and took some getting used to but i did'nt mind that.No expo on the throttle curve for my saito engines when flying so it helps when you want to throttle them up gently while flying.

    Do americans indulge in putting big props on small fourstrokes or do they just hold world series competitions for sports that are only conducted over there?

    I thought they had some sort of throttle curve you could dial in on the JR TX, not Exponential.

    I am inclined to try big props on some two stroke engines too.
    Here is my P86 Twin Mustang with two Saito FA-40a engines on it for power. Yes it has lots of power too. it only needs about ten feet of runway to take off of the grass with.



    How about a K&B Twister .60 with a 14x6 Master Airscrew prop on it?



    Club Saito #722, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #80, GlowHead Brotherhood #14,
    AMA # 928076

  10. #21910

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    To make a long story short I think I hydro locked my .91 4s and something broke internally. The glow plug area is ok and after removing the rocker covers the valves are moving like they should but I have no compression what so ever and I'm not sure the piston is moving at all.

    Any ideas ?? Is there a disassembly "web link" some one can provide so I don't muck it up when I take it apart to figure out whats broke.

    Please help as it was running great 10 mins before this and I am completely bummed

  11. #21911
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Was the engine inverted and got flooded? That will sometimes snap the crank pin right off. Hopefully some one will have a good link to tearing it down or you can send it to Horizon or other repair services. If you think it might be flooded always see if you can turn it over by hand before hitting it with the starter.

    Good luck and keep us posted,

    Ernie Misner

  12. #21912

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


    ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner

    Was the engine inverted and got flooded? That will sometimes snap the crank pin right off. Hopefully some one will have a good link to tearing it down or you can send it to Horizon or other repair services. If you think it might be flooded always see if you can turn it over by hand before hitting it with the starter.

    Good luck and keep us posted,

    Ernie Misner
    Yes it's an inverted setup and yes it probably got flooded (my mistake). Unfortunatly I didn't realize the flooded situation before I put the electric starter on it

    Hopefully some one can supply a good link as I would much rather tear it down myself then to send it off. Would just like a little guidance before I proceed.


  13. #21913
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


    ORIGINAL: ckreef

    To make a long story short I think I hydro locked my .91 4s and something broke internally. The glow plug area is ok and after removing the rocker covers the valves are moving like they should but I have no compression what so ever and I'm not sure the piston is moving at all.

    Any ideas ?? Is there a disassembly ''web link'' some one can provide so I don't muck it up when I take it apart to figure out whats broke.

    Please help as it was running great 10 mins before this and I am completely bummed [img][/img]

    Just remove the intake manifold/carb & that will allow you to remove the backplate. You will be able to see the crank/conrod after that.
    Club Saito #785 - FA91S, FA150, FA180, FA180HC/BBC, FA200TI, FA300TTDP: All with CH Ignitions CDI/Glow fuel
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  14. #21914
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    ORIGINAL: ckreef
    To make a long story short I think I hydro locked my .91 4s and something broke internally. The glow plug area is ok and after removing the rocker covers the valves are moving like they should but I have no compression what so ever and I'm not sure the piston is moving at all.

    Any ideas ?? Is there a disassembly "web link" some one can provide so I don't muck it up when I take it apart to figure out whats broke.
    Please help as it was running great 10 mins before this and I am completely bummed
    You can easily remove the carb and intake manifold from the back of the engine. That then lets you remove the backplate so you can see inside the crankcase. You can then easily tell if you broke the rod or the piston or the crankshaft or something.


    Club Saito #722, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #80, GlowHead Brotherhood #14,
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  15. #21915
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Run a search, this thread and forum, lots of info in the William Robison Complete Notes as well. It is at the top of the Engine Forum. Tearing it down will be fairly straight forwardward but on re-ass'y you will need to time the cam shaft. You will use heat from a propane torch, heat gun, or oven when removing the prop hub, crank and/or bearings. A puller can be used on the prop hub before removing the crank otherwise it can come off after heating and tapping on the front of the crank. When tapping put the nut on the crank threads and use a piece of hard wood and hammer. If the bearings don't come out with the crank you can leave them in unless you want to replace them. If they stay in place but you do want to replace them you'll have to re-heat the case and then with a gloved hand slam the case rear down on a piece of wood or tap them out from the front. On reass'y you can check the cam timing - both valves will be slightly open when at TDC on the intake stroke. Let us know..... try Paul at RC Bearings if needed.

    Ernie Misner

  16. #21916

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Here is a picture of the engine I got recently. The seller is stating that this scraping is from tighten the prop nut down which pulled against the bearings and being pulled by the prop. Also that the crank can heat up and expand causing the scraping. Am I crazy? Or is this not normal?

    Cory

    Also that seems to be fuel staining on the crank and bearings, but why not on the rod and crank like I've always seen?
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  17. #21917

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    *
    Cory,That's a long way from "normal". What a load of rubbish the seller is feeding you! The crank expanding...

    I would think the only way the side of the rod can touch the case is if the rear bearing is completely shot, allowing the crank to move forward. There must also be enough clearance in the piston to allow the rod to float forward with the crank...

    The "fuel staining" is RUST. The alloy rod and case won't rust. You may have seen castor oil stains previously.

    Regards, RossG
    radial1951
    _____________

    ORIGINAL: clytle374

    Here is a picture of the engine I got recently. The seller is stating that this scraping is from tighten the prop nut down which pulled against the bearings and being pulled by the prop. Also that the crank can heat up and expand causing the scraping. Am I crazy? Or is this not normal?

    Cory

    Also that seems to be fuel staining on the crank and bearings, but why not on the rod and crank like I've always seen?

  18. #21918
    Old Fart's Avatar
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Hi Dave is that a saito fuel filter?
    No,thats not what i call large re props.From memory i was running a 10x6 mas on the 30 and it would rip it at full throttle.I usually prop my saitos so that they won't exceed high nines in flight.

    My bad earl you were right about the throttle curve but i don't use it yet.The throttle stick has ratchet clicks so i've settled for that.
    How far over the recommended max prop size have people tried?.Is it dangerous to overload the engine at lower revs?
    Watch out for the ground eh?

  19. #21919
    Moderator Hobbsy's Avatar
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    It appears that a foriegn object/substance got under the rod, I see plenty of clearance the way it is sitting in the picture.
    Farmall 240 the final issue of the Farmall C, Super C, 200, 230 series.
    122 Cu. In. 22 hp. A small tractor that would do big work due to its 10x36 inch rear tires.

    As competition improves products, the differences between them get smaller and smaller

    Club Saito member #5

  20. #21920

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


    ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

    It appears that a foriegn object/substance got under the rod, I see plenty of clearance the way it is sitting in the picture.
    There is less than .004"(bites 2 sheets of paper) when you press the rod down with your finger at BDC. It is possible that something something was in there, idk. The seller is now stating that this is normal wear and the 9/10 engines ran for over a year would have this scraping. I've heard all I can take out of him, he is supposed to refund my money.... I'm holding my breath. Anyway I bought a brand new 100 last weekend.

    Cory

  21. #21921

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    I am now totally confused (see above posts)

    Saito .91 had no compression (most likely due to inverted and totally flooded). I took the engine off the plane. The carb and intake tube off. Removed the back plate. The crank case was soaked in fuel with a large puddle in there. There was nothing broke that I could see. I cleaned out all the excess fuel and Itried turning it over (by finger method) . It now appears to have full compression (could barely turn it over w/ finger method) and piston is moving as expeceted with valves moving as expeceted.

    Any thoughts on this before I put it back together and try to run it ???

    And NO I am not crazy although from my posts above even "Me-Myself-& Irene" think I'm crazy.

  22. #21922
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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    Cory, did you buy the engine locally so you could get your money back?

    You probably checked compression with the throttle closed the first time.

    Edit for grammer
    The ultimate responsibility of pilots is to fulfill the dreams of the countless millions who can only stare skyward...and wish.

    "It's a new day for Auburn" - Gus Malzahn

  23. #21923

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

    I posted a bunch of props I tested on my .40a one page back. I don't know what you concider large, but I'll probably fly the Beaver I'm building for this engine with a MA-S2 12x6 prop. It turns over 9k static. I bet it would turn a 13x4 MA-S2 at about the same. The 12x6 actually spools up very quickly.
    Club Saito member #173

  24. #21924

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


    ORIGINAL: blw

    You probably checked compression with the throttle closed the first time.
    I assume you are posting to me. I don't really recall the trottle position but yes probably closed the 1st time.

    Could you please explain so I have a better understanding. My brain must be missing something.




  25. #21925

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    RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


    ORIGINAL: blw

    Cory, did you buy the engine locally so you could get your money back?
    Edit for grammer
    The used engine was long distance via paypal. The new one was local.
    Cory


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