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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 08-04-2012, 06:45 PM
  #22851  
lopflyers
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(I now have more $ in this used engine than a new one costs!) But reworking it was fun.

In any other endevour that would be crazy. Only on RC airplanes this sentence makes sence.
Old 08-04-2012, 07:02 PM
  #22852  
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Treehanger- you are the official man of the hour. Great pics of the cam. If I had done the same thing I wouldn't consider any money wasted. You did the right things and will probably have the engine back to being the sweethearts they are.
Old 08-04-2012, 07:07 PM
  #22853  
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We had a couple of those 250cc gas burning 4 stroke radials. They were for a FW. I once held the elevators behind my ankles as they ran up the engine INSIDE the hobby shop one night. Big mistake. I was in serious pain after a long wide open throttle run. They sound incredibly good. They. Smoke up a hobbyshop good too.
Old 08-04-2012, 07:24 PM
  #22854  
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Gotta love that castor oil!
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:19 AM
  #22855  
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I DO... dribble a bit on the hot plate for the neighbours bbq,the sausages taste awesome
Old 08-05-2012, 03:24 AM
  #22856  
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Ah, castor oil. For that "Get Up and Go" feeling.

Treehanger, that build up is considerable and the worst I've seen in a long time. You must have been putting out enough smoke to hide the Normandy landings! All that does lead towards the suspicion either a sticking valve or some of that getting between the valve face and seat. Drop it in a crock pot of glycol and it would come clean in a few hours.

As for starting, I find mine sans choke need a slightly open throttle to start, (still below 1/4). Once fired off and warmed for a few seconds it can be brought back down.
Old 08-05-2012, 06:04 AM
  #22857  
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This was the way I got it used. I had neverdid runit before these pictures. Yes, I did crockpot it! Still took a lot of work to remove what was left.
Yesterday I used 17% oil w/ caster/syn mix. 10% nitro to test it out. Maybe I should use 15%.
Bob
Old 08-05-2012, 06:13 AM
  #22858  
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I have been running 20% caster and 80% synthetic oil in my Saitos engines. I have a buildup of carbon in my muffles and manifolds. The carbon is causing my engines to run hot and leans out on me. Outside of buying a new muffle, I need some ideas on how to clean out the back carbon?
Old 08-05-2012, 07:07 AM
  #22859  
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ORIGINAL: rcflyboy01

I have been running 20% caster and 80% synthetic oil in my Saitos engines. I have a buildup of carbon in my muffles and manifolds. The carbon is causing my engines to run hot and leans out on me. Outside of buying a new muffle, I need some ideas on how to clean out the back carbon?

ORIGINAL: treehanger

This was the way I got it used. I had never did run it before these pictures. Yes, I did crockpot it! Still took a lot of work to remove what was left.
Yesterday I used 17% oil w/ caster/syn mix. 10% nitro to test it out. Maybe I should use 15%.
Bob
15% Cool Power is all I use. No castor, 100% synthetic.
Old 08-05-2012, 10:34 AM
  #22860  
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rcflyboy, the crock pot and glycol will do an amazing job if left long enough.
Old 08-05-2012, 10:39 AM
  #22861  
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ORIGINAL: Cougar429

rcflyboy, the crock pot and glycol will do an amazing job if left long enough.

So will an overnight soak in Dawn Power Dissolver followed by a hot water rinse then a soak in vinegar to nuetralize it..
Old 08-05-2012, 10:40 AM
  #22862  
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Delete double post.
Old 08-05-2012, 10:42 AM
  #22863  
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SrTelemaster, regarding the Moki conrod offset; the two opposite slave rod big end pin locations are closer to each other than the other pins on the same base circle. So all pistons have the same stroke, only two of the pistons move in slightly different "rhytm" than the other three.
Old 08-05-2012, 12:47 PM
  #22864  
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ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150

ORIGINAL: Cougar429

rcflyboy, the crock pot and glycol will do an amazing job if left long enough.

So willan overnight soak in Dawn Power Dissolver followed by a hot water rinse then a soak in vinegar to nuetralize it..
That is too long for some aluminum. You have to spot test it past 15 minutes. I've gone 45 minutes on Saitos and Evolutions. Dawn Power Dissolver is wonder stuff, but it can darken aluminum if you aren't careful. I rinse it off by spraying alcohol liberally all over the surfaces. Sounds like you are confusing that with the antifreeze cleaning method.

Glycol = antifreeze
Old 08-05-2012, 01:01 PM
  #22865  
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Got some new members.....

The Raven #788

jkr_1100 #789

treehanger #790

Tom Englehart #791

It's great to have you guys in the Club. Anyone else?

edited to correct boneheaded counting. Treehanger and Tom both had number changes. Sorry about that and thanks to Tom for pointing it out.
Old 08-05-2012, 01:11 PM
  #22866  
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My Saito FA 91s quit running for no reason at all. Replaced the glow plug, put in new fuel. Hmm. Will try again when it quits raining
Old 08-05-2012, 01:16 PM
  #22867  
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Ozburn? Did I hear Ozburn? Jim B, ChE API 1952. Learned to fly Aeroncas at the Auburn-Opelika airport.

"Fairest village of the plains."
Old 08-05-2012, 01:38 PM
  #22868  
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The black carbon build up is inside the muffler. Will the Dawn Power Dissolver dissolve the carbon. Also the carbon is on the exhaust valve, top of piston and head.
Old 08-05-2012, 01:50 PM
  #22869  
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and you have rain? i wish we did, it is scorching hot here, cannot go outside to fly, temp = 102
Old 08-05-2012, 01:51 PM
  #22870  
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how about me? i have 3 saitos:fg 36,gk100,125
ORIGINAL: blw

Got some new members.....

The Raven #788

jkr_1100 #789

treehanger #791

Tom Englehart #792

It's great to have you guys in the Club. Anyone else?
Old 08-05-2012, 01:56 PM
  #22871  
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ORIGINAL: orthobird

and you have rain? i wish we did, it is scorching hot here, cannot go outside to fly, temp = 102
102? I guess it is time for the winter coat. How about 113.
Old 08-05-2012, 02:23 PM
  #22872  
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BLW, thank you, I have been reading for several weeks, I started on page 1 and wondered if numbers were still given out. i just picked up a funtana 40 with an OS 70. now I will have an OS to compare to my Saitos. By the way i was visiting a buddy that had an RC boat kit with a Saito 4 cylinder steam engine. He said he got the boat but not the engine. I really wanted to see that one.

Cheers,
Old 08-05-2012, 02:51 PM
  #22873  
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ORIGINAL: JariV

SrTelemaster, regarding the Moki conrod offset; the two opposite slave rod big end pin locations are closer to each other than the other pins on the same base circle. So all pistons have the same stroke, only two of the pistons move in slightly different ''rhytm'' than the other three.

OK, I see. 3 cyliders (the master & 2 adjacent slave rods 5-1-2)are equally spaced as far as degrees while the remaining 2 (3-4)are spaced a few degree closer W/the widest gaps between 2-3 & 4-5.

That's how they are getting the Harley "V" twin "lope" effect. Several different degree patterns per cycle.

Me likey!
Old 08-05-2012, 02:55 PM
  #22874  
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ORIGINAL: blw

ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150

ORIGINAL: Cougar429

rcflyboy, the crock pot and glycol will do an amazing job if left long enough.

So willan overnight soak in Dawn Power Dissolver followed by a hot water rinse then a soak in vinegar to nuetralize it..
That is too long for some aluminum. You have to spot test it past 15 minutes. I've gone 45 minutes on Saitos and Evolutions. Dawn Power Dissolver is wonder stuff, but it can darken aluminum if you aren't careful. I rinse it off by spraying alcohol liberally all over the surfaces. Sounds like you are confusing that with the antifreeze cleaning method.
Not confussing them but you are right, probably more like 4 hours W/the DPD sprayed liberally on the parts laying on a cookie sheet.

The vinegar is a good trick though. The weak acidity brightens up the aluminum & neutralizes the akalinity of the DPD.
Old 08-05-2012, 03:07 PM
  #22875  
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ORIGINAL: rcflyboy01

The black carbon build up is inside the muffler. Will the Dawn Power Dissolver dissolve the carbon. Also the carbon is on the exhaust valve, top of piston and head.
Yes, spray on a thick coating, let is soak on a cookie sheet for a few hours & go after it W/a tooth brush/"Q" tip/rag.

Rinse it thoroughly in hot water & repaet if needed. When it is clean, emerse in a bowl of strong vinegar/water solution, (about 1:1) & let it soak for a few more hours, then rinse in cold water. Blow it out W/compressed air.

If the aluminum darkens, just give it a light coat of flat silver Rustoleum (1200*) BBQ paint. Let it dry & then bake it in the oven @ 300*F for about an hour. Do not handle the part directly W/oven mitts until it cools. The paint will still be a bit soft when hot, but it will harden & be completely fuel proof once it cools.

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