Welcome to Club SAITO !
RE: [Deleted]
I use Saitos aluminum engine mounts for all my Saitos for two reasons. 1st I am lazy and Saitos mounts are drilled and taped perfectly for the engine. And 2nd aluminum is a great conductor of heat so the mount helps to cool the engine. Granted not a lot but in a cowled engine every little bit helps. IMHO.
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RE: [Deleted]
I use the same mounts as Taz, I use sheet metal screws in the engine lugs on .80 and down and socket head screws with nyloc nuts for .80 and larger. Those GP mounts are inexpensive, versatile and tough.
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RE: [Deleted]
I have a few questions about a Saito 1.82 TD.
I was asked to look into a problem with this engine. The first thing I encountered was the exhaust valve on the left bank stuck open when rotating the crankshaft. After removing the valve train, the tappet remained in its stuck position.
I removed the cylinder and cam gear housing. Rotating the cam gear in the removed housing produces a slight tick, as if the tappet is catching on the lobe. The cam lobes exhibit some wear that, to me, looks unacceptable. The piston and cylinder wall looks to be OK.
I am leaning towards replacing the left cam gear housing, tappets, cam gear and shaft. In addition to a gasket set, do I need anything else?
Also, how is the cam gear set in relation to the crankshaft upon reinstallation?
How does the cam gear shaft come out of the cam gear housing? Is a drift used, or is their some other non-destructive method?
Bob
I was asked to look into a problem with this engine. The first thing I encountered was the exhaust valve on the left bank stuck open when rotating the crankshaft. After removing the valve train, the tappet remained in its stuck position.
I removed the cylinder and cam gear housing. Rotating the cam gear in the removed housing produces a slight tick, as if the tappet is catching on the lobe. The cam lobes exhibit some wear that, to me, looks unacceptable. The piston and cylinder wall looks to be OK.
I am leaning towards replacing the left cam gear housing, tappets, cam gear and shaft. In addition to a gasket set, do I need anything else?
Also, how is the cam gear set in relation to the crankshaft upon reinstallation?
How does the cam gear shaft come out of the cam gear housing? Is a drift used, or is their some other non-destructive method?
Bob
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RE: [Deleted]
OK, thanks.
I removed the gear and had to apply some persuasion to the tappet to get it out. I ordered the aforementioned parts from Horizon.
I remember reading somewhere about the length of an extension on the drain nipple. Are there any restrictions as to length when adding one?
Bob
I removed the gear and had to apply some persuasion to the tappet to get it out. I ordered the aforementioned parts from Horizon.
I remember reading somewhere about the length of an extension on the drain nipple. Are there any restrictions as to length when adding one?
Bob
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RE: [Deleted]
Hobbsy and crew,
Thanks for all of your help. I finally got the FA-80 tuned properly and she's running like a swiss watch and staying cool as a cucumber. Iput about 5 flights on it yesterday without a hickup. She's idling close to 2000 rpm and topping out at 9200 swinging a Zinger Pro 14x6. I grabbed the prop nut after flight and it was just a tad above ambient where before it was too hot to hold. It helps a lot if you adjust them correctly.
This little engine idles so quietly that you can hardly hear it 15 feet away. The Turboheader is doing a fine job I think. She runs smoothly and sounds very sweet. I've got my timer set for 10 min. and she lands with 1/2 a tank left. She's very efficient. ILOVEthis engine.
Thanks again guys,
RJ
Thanks for all of your help. I finally got the FA-80 tuned properly and she's running like a swiss watch and staying cool as a cucumber. Iput about 5 flights on it yesterday without a hickup. She's idling close to 2000 rpm and topping out at 9200 swinging a Zinger Pro 14x6. I grabbed the prop nut after flight and it was just a tad above ambient where before it was too hot to hold. It helps a lot if you adjust them correctly.
This little engine idles so quietly that you can hardly hear it 15 feet away. The Turboheader is doing a fine job I think. She runs smoothly and sounds very sweet. I've got my timer set for 10 min. and she lands with 1/2 a tank left. She's very efficient. ILOVEthis engine.
Thanks again guys,
RJ
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RE: [Deleted]
Does anyone know why this thread is showing up as Re: [Deleted] instead of as Club Saito? At least that's what the notifications are titled.
Or is there a problem on my end instead? All of my other thread notifications are running properly. I don't want to lose this one.
Thanks,
Bob
Or is there a problem on my end instead? All of my other thread notifications are running properly. I don't want to lose this one.
Thanks,
Bob
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RE: [Deleted]
ORIGINAL: N1EDM
Does anyone know why this thread is showing up as Re: [Deleted] instead of as Club Saito? At least that's what the notifications are titled.
Or is there a problem on my end instead? All of my other thread notifications are running properly. I don't want to lose this one.
Thanks,
Bob
Does anyone know why this thread is showing up as Re: [Deleted] instead of as Club Saito? At least that's what the notifications are titled.
Or is there a problem on my end instead? All of my other thread notifications are running properly. I don't want to lose this one.
Thanks,
Bob
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RE: [Deleted]
Hobbsy, do you have any idea why we're having this link-up problem? Are the Sysops aware of this? I also have to go into RCUniverse, then to Glow Engines, and finally into Club Saito to read the mail. I've tried to Unsubscribe and then Subscribe to see if this would reset anything.
Can you shed any light on this problem? My Club SuperTigre was very slow to load. Threads in other forums load normally though.
Thanks,
Bob
Can you shed any light on this problem? My Club SuperTigre was very slow to load. Threads in other forums load normally though.
Thanks,
Bob
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RE: [Deleted]
Guten Tag from Austria Gentlemen,
I have been a silent reader of this thread for quite some time. Although being a Laser Man I just could not resist a good deal for a Saito FA-450. I would like to put the engine in a SiSt Focke Wulf bit the cowl is missing about 4mm clearance.
the question is, can the 450 be run without the rocker covers? What problems can I run into?
Thanks for an answer,
Rev
I have been a silent reader of this thread for quite some time. Although being a Laser Man I just could not resist a good deal for a Saito FA-450. I would like to put the engine in a SiSt Focke Wulf bit the cowl is missing about 4mm clearance.
the question is, can the 450 be run without the rocker covers? What problems can I run into?
Thanks for an answer,
Rev
RE: [Deleted]
Hi rev and welcome,i like your sense of humour.Just slot the cowl on the port side a tiny bit so the rocker cover has some clearance,you won't notice that on a fast flyby even down low and up close.Seen the new fg84?
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RE: [Deleted]
ORIGINAL: Old Fart
Hi rev and welcome,i like your sense of humour.Just slot the cowl on the port side a tiny bit so the rocker cover has some clearance,you won't notice that on a fast flyby even down low and up close.Seen the new fg84?
Hi rev and welcome,i like your sense of humour.Just slot the cowl on the port side a tiny bit so the rocker cover has some clearance,you won't notice that on a fast flyby even down low and up close.Seen the new fg84?
The SiSt Focke is quite a scale plane and I would hate the golden rocker covers (all six of them) looking out of the sides.
I will have to think about widening the cowl [:'(]
Rev
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Saito 82a replacement bearings.......................
My 82a is starting to feel a little rough and I suspect that the rear bearing needs replacing, and was thinking I might replace the front as well. Ive previously replaced bearings on both YS and OS engines in the past so am not a complete novice but would appreciate a bit of advice on the best sequence and any likely areas of difficulty. Thanks in advance for any help...............
Bob V
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hello BobV,
I just replaced the bearings in mine and had no issues. It was standard fare. To remove them I had to press on the crankshaft with the chuck of a drill press ('scuse me, ahem, Pillar Drill) and the crank popped right out. Then a lot of heat, evenly distributed, around the case where the rear bearing was situated and smack it on the proverbial piece of pine. THe front was driven out with a large diameter dowel pushed in from the back. Nothing that you haven't already done before.
I should have gotten my bearings from Horizon Hobby, Boca Bearing or RCBearings... but they were out. So I went to my local bearing shop and he ordered me a set. I did not get any sort of deal here. It cost me as much as if I had ordered them both from Horizon Hobby and had the shipping included... plus, he got me a sealed bearing for the rear (the front is a sealed bearing anyway from Saito). The original rear bearing in my Saito 82 was shielded, not sealed. So, I just popped off the seals and installed the rear bearing as a regular bearing.
One thing that I did do was to clean up the crankshaft. The rear bearing would not fit over the crankshaft at all after I pulled it out. So, I dressed the crankshaft on my buffing wheel with compound and it was a perfect fit with zero clearance. After freezing the bearing and heating the case up again (I was surprised at how much heat I needed) the rear bearing/crankshaft assembly dropped right in but you have to make sure that it goes in square. Once that was seated, with the case still warm, I was able to drop on the sealed front bearing with no effort.
So, if you have the option to buy the original bearings from HH or RC Bearing, it's probably best to do so. I didn't gain anything by going to my local bearing shop except that he shortened up the delivery by a day or two (he had to order the rear bearing - and he ordered me a sealed one instead of a shielded one).
As you can see, nothing out of the ordinary if you've already changed bearings before. If that bearing gets 'caught' as you try to put it in, pop it out right away till (so that it doesn't get stuck in there) and add more heat till it fits. Just apply the heat evenly.
Just my $.02
Bob
I just replaced the bearings in mine and had no issues. It was standard fare. To remove them I had to press on the crankshaft with the chuck of a drill press ('scuse me, ahem, Pillar Drill) and the crank popped right out. Then a lot of heat, evenly distributed, around the case where the rear bearing was situated and smack it on the proverbial piece of pine. THe front was driven out with a large diameter dowel pushed in from the back. Nothing that you haven't already done before.
I should have gotten my bearings from Horizon Hobby, Boca Bearing or RCBearings... but they were out. So I went to my local bearing shop and he ordered me a set. I did not get any sort of deal here. It cost me as much as if I had ordered them both from Horizon Hobby and had the shipping included... plus, he got me a sealed bearing for the rear (the front is a sealed bearing anyway from Saito). The original rear bearing in my Saito 82 was shielded, not sealed. So, I just popped off the seals and installed the rear bearing as a regular bearing.
One thing that I did do was to clean up the crankshaft. The rear bearing would not fit over the crankshaft at all after I pulled it out. So, I dressed the crankshaft on my buffing wheel with compound and it was a perfect fit with zero clearance. After freezing the bearing and heating the case up again (I was surprised at how much heat I needed) the rear bearing/crankshaft assembly dropped right in but you have to make sure that it goes in square. Once that was seated, with the case still warm, I was able to drop on the sealed front bearing with no effort.
So, if you have the option to buy the original bearings from HH or RC Bearing, it's probably best to do so. I didn't gain anything by going to my local bearing shop except that he shortened up the delivery by a day or two (he had to order the rear bearing - and he ordered me a sealed one instead of a shielded one).
As you can see, nothing out of the ordinary if you've already changed bearings before. If that bearing gets 'caught' as you try to put it in, pop it out right away till (so that it doesn't get stuck in there) and add more heat till it fits. Just apply the heat evenly.
Just my $.02
Bob
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hello BobV,
I just replaced mine in my 82 for the same reason (rough in the rear, might as well replace the front one too). There was nothing out of the ordinary if you had already replaced bearings before.
I had to get the case quite warm to get the old bearing out and to pop the new bearing in. I polished the crankshaft on a buffing wheel to remove the crud where the bearing sits... that way, the new bearing was able to slide on. I put the bearing on the crankshaft and used that assembly to install the new bearings. IT seemed to make it go easier. I had to heat up the case pretty warm once again to get the rear bearing in but it helps to have it mounted on the crank so that you can more easily center it into the crankcase. It's easier to see that way. I popped the front bearing in after the rear was seated and while the case was still warm.
I bought my bearings from a local bearing supplier because I had trouble finding them in stock on line. I don't think I saved anything but for a day or two of delivery time. If you can find it on line, I think that you'll be better off because my local dealer got me a sealed bearing instead of a shielded one,. which was the one that Saito supplied.
Hope that this helps - just my $.02
Bob
I just replaced mine in my 82 for the same reason (rough in the rear, might as well replace the front one too). There was nothing out of the ordinary if you had already replaced bearings before.
I had to get the case quite warm to get the old bearing out and to pop the new bearing in. I polished the crankshaft on a buffing wheel to remove the crud where the bearing sits... that way, the new bearing was able to slide on. I put the bearing on the crankshaft and used that assembly to install the new bearings. IT seemed to make it go easier. I had to heat up the case pretty warm once again to get the rear bearing in but it helps to have it mounted on the crank so that you can more easily center it into the crankcase. It's easier to see that way. I popped the front bearing in after the rear was seated and while the case was still warm.
I bought my bearings from a local bearing supplier because I had trouble finding them in stock on line. I don't think I saved anything but for a day or two of delivery time. If you can find it on line, I think that you'll be better off because my local dealer got me a sealed bearing instead of a shielded one,. which was the one that Saito supplied.
Hope that this helps - just my $.02
Bob
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Yikes... I just noticed that this thread is one week away from being 7 years old... Gawd, think about all the friends that we've made over the years... Maybe we should plane a get-together at Christmas??
Hobbsy, I don't know if it's anything to you or not, but I still get notifications when a new post comes in. When I click on it a screen opens and I get the message "Waiting for a response from www.rcuniverse.com". I don't know if that helps you out or not??? And it comes in as Re:[Deleted] still...
Bob
Hobbsy, I don't know if it's anything to you or not, but I still get notifications when a new post comes in. When I click on it a screen opens and I get the message "Waiting for a response from www.rcuniverse.com". I don't know if that helps you out or not??? And it comes in as Re:[Deleted] still...
Bob