Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 10-19-2012, 07:21 AM
  #23476
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1. What I meant by the sound is that it doesn't die suddenly, it takes a couple of seconds.
2. I didn't test it with the glow plug ignitor still in because at mid range- FOT is good.
3. The prop feels with excellent compression.

Thx for the suggestion of checking for crud. I actually fly on a grass field and yesterday it was wet.
I'm at work.[:@] But I will check all these over the wknd
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:27 AM
  #23477
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Lopflyer,

Keeping in mind what Hobbsy suggested, not all backfires are loud. They can be a small cough, or a little wheeze that you can barely hear. My 125 had one, and I heard it and the guy holding the plane didn't. It still loosened the prop nut.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:39 AM
  #23478
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: blw

Lopflyer,

Keeping in mind what Hobbsy suggested, not all backfires are loud. They can be a small cough, or a little wheeze that you can barely hear. My 125 had one, and I heard it and the guy holding the plane didn't. It still loosened the prop nut.

Perhaps the use of non Saito brand High speed needle valve extensions can cause tuning issues? for $0.99 perhaps they use an alloy that promotes better tuning?



Edited to say this. Hobbsy be careful please. notice that the "o" engines are not included in the compatibility list on the front of the package. do not attempt to use one of these on the 150S
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:57 AM
  #23479
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ORIGINAL: jkr_1100

Quote:
ORIGINAL: blw

Lopflyer,

Keeping in mind what Hobbsy suggested, not all backfires are loud. They can be a small cough, or a little wheeze that you can barely hear. My 125 had one, and I heard it and the guy holding the plane didn't. It still loosened the prop nut.

Perhaps the use of non Saito brand High speed needle valve extensions can cause tuning issues? for $0.99 perhaps they use an alloy that promotes better tuning?



Edited to say this. Hobbsy be careful please. notice that the ''o'' engines are not included in the compatibility list on the front of the package. do not attempt to use one of these on the 150S
I use old 4-40 control rod cut-offs for my needle valve extensions.

Not sure what the alloy is but it must be "compatible" for the 150, 180 300T & 91S.. Gee, I hope my 200Ti doesn't have an alloy issue.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:59 PM
  #23480
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I'm not sleeping tonight until I check mine.

Does size matter?
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:20 PM
  #23481
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Well I already checked and mine are not Saito
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:49 PM
  #23482
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I've done it all these ways in one engine or the other.

What ever is laying around that fits?
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:21 PM
  #23483
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Phew! well thats it.Just spent an hour in the shed with an oxy torch re-tempering all of my saito main needles in-situ to save me some time.Maybe they won't bend so easy now
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:20 PM
  #23484
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If I have a resonant needle valve extension, I change the length. Usually the shorter the better for preventing resonance.
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Old 10-19-2012, 05:48 PM
  #23485
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Bristo (or Bristol) wrenches solve that, Jim. I've used them for years. The splines do the trick, but I'm not into the math behind it.

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Old 10-20-2012, 03:18 AM
  #23486
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Me neither but same as fluting rifle barrels i think.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:13 AM
  #23487
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Well I am new to the club. I just bought my first Saito. It is a FA-56GK, it will start off on a 56" P51-D Midwest kit that is in the build state right now.
I will be breaking the motor in later this week as now it is in the plane so I may fit all of the front end wood work around it.
I hope to have good luck and many happy flights as I have heard all good news about these motors.

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Old 10-22-2012, 02:43 PM
  #23488
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You may want to make up a temporary wooden mount for the engine and bench run it initially.They are set very rich for break in and vibrate lots for the first couple of tankfulls.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:41 PM
  #23489
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart

You may want to make up a temporary wooden mount for the engine and bench run it initially.They are set very rich for break in and vibrate lots for the first couple of tankfulls.

I threw a wrench in the works with my jokes about the Saito full throttle needle extension

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFeO...1&feature=plcp

Here is the video from the camera setup shown. Saito power of course. FYI this camera does a "better" job with the saito sound, at least better than my Blackberry.

Cheers to all. Welcome to spring OF?

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Old 10-23-2012, 04:34 AM
  #23490
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Hi mate awesome rudder work it's nice to see an aeroplane flown well.Did a good job lining the other pilots up who were flying too the engine sounds well tuned,is it the audio or is it just slightly lean on top end?? thanks for the link i enjoyed watching it mate
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:53 AM
  #23491
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Old Fart, Thanks for the advise.
I had planned on it as it seems it would be much easier, I want the least number of issues atthe field and I just plain like doing it.
This is my first 4 stoke airplane motor so I hope to learn as much as possible at the bench on the tuning.
Thanks

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Old 10-23-2012, 04:15 PM
  #23492
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Old Fart

Hi mate awesome rudder work it's nice to see an aeroplane flown well.Did a good job lining the other pilots up who were flying too the engine sounds well tuned,is it the audio or is it just slightly lean on top end?? thanks for the link i enjoyed watching it mate


OF, I need to take a picture for you and the gang to look at. the LSN looks like its way rich. but she runs like a top. swiss watch (Patek Phillip) or sewing machine.

broke Firewall on the tiger 2 with the saito 125 today. funny somehow i didn't think it would happen to me.


cheers.
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:26 PM
  #23493
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Okay, to double check that LS needle that "looks" too rich, pinch the fuel line while it's idling. It should just barely speed up before wanting to die. If it speeds up quite a bit and runs a lot smoother, then you're still too fat on the bottom end.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:39 AM
  #23494
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Hi mate the lsn needle looks spot on from what i saw.Know what you mean about the tiger,ditched my favourite deccy a month ago,still sobbing into my beer
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:42 AM
  #23495
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner

Okay, to double check that LS needle that "looks" too rich, pinch the fuel line while it's idling. It should just barely speed up before wanting to die. If it speeds up quite a bit and runs a lot smoother, then you're still too fat on the bottom end.
May work good for 2 stroke engines...4 stroke engines need to be more rich on Idle mix. I was one of the first RC fan,s to tune one in West Mich many years ago. I have tunned many engines since for people. Have had some experience. Capt,n
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:18 AM
  #23496
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Thanks for sharing your wisdom John. There's so much to be learned from those who have worked in the industry. He's absolutely correct that a 4-stroke needs to be tuned slightly richer on the bottom end than a 2-stroke. A 2-stroke has a bit of fuel that puddles in the crankcase that helps with acceleration off of idle that a 4-stroke does not have. If the 4-stroke is way rich on the LS needle though, a pinch of the fuel line will let you know. You can go leaner and leaner on the LS neeedle until the 4-stroke ticks over like a sewing maching, but then it will not take the throttle on acceleration. So it needs to be richened up just slightly, will not idle quite as smoothly as it did, but will not fall flat and die. It's a compromise. When you're right on the edge of being too lean, a change of weather will let you know then you have to richen up slghtly again.

Ernie Misner
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:12 PM
  #23497
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Cougar429

N1EDM, the rear should be a 6902 OPEN bearing, not rubber sealed or shielded. That way it will get lube and allow the space between the bearings to breath, (also lubing the cam and valvetrain). If the engine case vent is mounted below the cam then you need to equalize pressure to that area anyway.

The front is listed as an R6-2RS, which is rubber sealed, but I recommend removing the inner seal to allow it also to get lube. The seals pop out easily with a straight pin under the outer edge.

From my own experience shielded or sealed bearings are wider than non-sealed or shielded. If you opt for one not open you will find the crank does not fit correctly.
You should not remove the inner seal on the front bearing as that will allow pressure to blow out the front seal. Sealed bearings come with high quality grease in them so that no further lube is needed.
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:58 PM
  #23498
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Here is the typical setting with the steel throttle arm, (picture #1) and with the plastic arm, (picture #2)
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:22 AM
  #23499
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Ern, here are an example each of a Saito .80 carb LS setting and a much newer .56 with the plastic arm. They are set for 2,000 rpm but of course are flown at 2,200 by moving the trim tab a notch or two.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:46 PM
  #23500
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Thanks Dave. Looks like on the older one you can clearly see that the needle is far from being flush with the throttle arm.
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