Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 01-11-2013, 09:21 PM
  #23976
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Snap On have a good range of thread guages in both Imperial and Metric, both modern and the "ancient" thread forms.  Like the others I wouldn't be without mine or a good set of taps and dies.  I think at last count I have about 200 of each ranging from 4BA up to I think 1.5 inch covering every type including those things the frnch used in some of their a/c.
Tread giages are a must have item.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:43 AM
  #23977
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This Screw Ckeck'r from MicroMark is what I use, this is the Metric one, it gives you the diameter, thread pitch and what drill to use.
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:39 AM
  #23978
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The .65's base bolts are 3.5x.6, sorry about the lousy picture.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:23 AM
  #23979
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Oops. I thought you said the crankshaft threads....
I somehow missed that.
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:25 PM
  #23980
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Hobbsy,  Avial markets one that does all yours does but also has a provision to measure lenght as well.  Both Aviall and US tools have these displayed on the website.  The Snap On one is expensive (here in OZ) so I only have the ones provided by a generous employer or two.  I also use the TOOL Yard as another source of hard to get, nice to have tools and don't forget good old Tower Hobbies, some of their stuff is good for padding out the order to get reduced freight.
I have acquired a number of fastener measuring guages and devices, even one that translates the bolt dimension from the bolt being "scanned" to the correct dimensional size on a plan / drawing on a computer screen.  Very Mickey Mouse.  
For those looking for these "old fashioned" tools check around the "second hand" shops at your local airport.  The ones that sell parts etc and yes even the a/c wreckers yards.  I have obtained some gems in Tuscon like the tool P&W made so you could adjust the valves on the 1830 while it was running (yes runnning but only at idle).  There is one on the P$W museum in Canada or Maine (I think).  Worked well on Ford V8's.  The last one of those I saw was at Tan Son Nhat when I was at the engineering base in 99.  The bloody Pratt rep grabbed it quicker than me but oh well hopefully it went to a good home 
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:37 PM
  #23981
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Hobbsy, thanks for the info! I have a Saito 91 that turned out to be not such a good deal. I was going to clean it up before I used it and came across discrepancies. One of them being a stripped out screw on the lower left rear cover plate. I believe those are 3mm screws. The cylinder hold down screws are slightly larger at 3.5mm so I thought I would re-tap the stripped out screw for a 3.5mm one. Initially, I wanted to modify a 3.5mm screw into a tap using a cutting wheel but a purpose made tap would be better. I would hate to mess up a crankcase with something not up to the job. I just wanted to be sure which tap I need to order.

Joe
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:23 PM
  #23982
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hi guys
i have a satio 56 that i put new bearings in and i cant find my tool that came with the motor ,what size gage would i use to set the arms and do i need the wrech that came with it or what can i use or where can i get new tools for it ,thanks
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:39 AM
  #23983
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Hi rye if you smoke rollies grab a paper out and use it,about one and a half thou don't know how you say that in metric.We used to use that method free floating sporting firearm barrels.I know there's plenty of apps around for converting af to metric re thread sizes but everytime you look at the chart it leaves you with a vague headache,man i wish and am going to tool up so i can cut some half decent threads for my saito exhaust systems!!
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:29 AM
  #23984
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http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-ii-SAIE056#t4 go about 2/3 the way down the page.

If you pick a set of guages at NAPA make sure it has a .004 inch feeler in it.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:42 AM
  #23985
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thankyou sir
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:41 AM
  #23986
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I have a saito 72 on a nex star I want to put a 3 bladed prop on. I have been running an 11x7 2 blade. What would be a 3 blade recommendation.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:47 AM
  #23987
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12x6 or 12x8 3-blader

I imagine you had the engine under-propped with the 11x7 two blade
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:18 PM
  #23988
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Quikturn

Hobbsy, thanks for the info! I have a Saito 91 that turned out to be not such a good deal. I was going to clean it up before I used it and came across discrepancies. One of them being a stripped out screw on the lower left rear cover plate. I believe those are 3mm screws. The cylinder hold down screws are slightly larger at 3.5mm so I thought I would re-tap the stripped out screw for a 3.5mm one. Initially, I wanted to modify a 3.5mm screw into a tap using a cutting wheel but a purpose made tap would be better. I would hate to mess up a crankcase with something not up to the job. I just wanted to be sure which tap I need to order.

Joe
The stock rear cover screws do not go all the way to the bottom of the hole in the case. (at least not on te FA150)

There may be enough thread left to use a longer screw. I think I used the length screw that was used in the FA150 cam housing.

Anyway, check the depth of the hole against the length of the OEM rear cover screw. If there is enough depth, try a srew that is 1mm longer or better yet instal a stud in the hole. No dangerv of bottoming out & breaking off a screw W/a stud.

A "bottom tap" may also get you enough additional threads to get a better hold.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:08 PM
  #23989
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I bet that 72 screams with a 11x7 prop.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:25 PM
  #23990
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150

The stock rear cover screws do not go all the way to the bottom of the hole in the case. (at least not on te FA150)

There may be enough thread left to use a longer screw. I think I used the length screw that was used in the FA150 cam housing.

Anyway, check the depth of the hole against the length of the OEM rear cover screw. If there is enough depth, try a srew that is 1mm longer or better yet instal a stud in the hole. No dangerv of bottoming out & breaking off a screw W/a stud.

A ''bottom tap'' may also get you enough additional threads to get a better hold.
Thanks for the idea. I'll take a look at it and see if it's the same on the 91. It would certainly be an easier repair.

In the event it won't work out, I beleive there is enough material in the crankcase to re-tap to a larger size.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:50 AM
  #23991
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Quikturn


Quote:
ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150

The stock rear cover screws do not go all the way to the bottom of the hole in the case. (at least not on te FA150)

There may be enough thread left to use a longer screw. I think I used the length screw that was used in the FA150 cam housing.

Anyway, check the depth of the hole against the length of the OEM rear cover screw. If there is enough depth, try a srew that is 1mm longer or better yet instal a stud in the hole. No dangerv of bottoming out & breaking off a screw W/a stud.

A ''bottom tap'' may also get you enough additional threads to get a better hold.
Thanks for the idea. I'll take a look at it and see if it's the same on the 91. It would certainly be an easier repair.

In the event it won't work out, I beleive there is enough material in the crankcase to re-tap to a larger size.

The rear cover screws don't need a lot of torque. They are not containg any type of force. They just hold the rear cover in place. If you can get 3-4 threads to bite, use a stud W/red locctite.

I went ahead & installed studs in both bottom holes to mount a bracket for a Perry V-20 Pump.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:18 PM
  #23992
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I finally got to start my used FA-91SGK.  It starts and runs like a jewel and the sound is great.  Although, that muffler looks like a plumbing fixture.  I could use a little extra RPM so, it looks like I'll be picking up a Turbo-Header soon.  I haven't checked the peak RPM on it yet because it got dark before I thought about it.  The 13x8 prop was running at a pretty good clip and I expect it to tach high.  I may want to try a deeper pitch but, won't be able to tell until I fly it and see how she performs.
This engine is mounted inverted on a World Models Intruder 90R that I plan to use in SPA competitions.  We  established the "SPA West" division last year and had a great turnout at almost all of the events held west of the Mississippi.  The SPA West "Ft. Worth Open" was flown at my home field this year ....The Ft. Worth Thunderbirds facility on Benbrook Lake. 
The Intruder is a good flying plane and is capable of winning contests as has been demonstrated several times in SPA contests.  I'm looking forward to a great season with this plane and the outstanding engine mounted on it.

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Old 01-14-2013, 09:07 PM
  #23993
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I have a Saito 82. I just replaced the cylinder, adjusted the valves and now it runs ok, but the high speed needle is only bout a 1/4 turn from being completly closed. It ideels fine, and seams to run a high speed ok. BUt the high needle setting seams to be way to closed. Shouldn't it bee open somewhere around 1-1/2 turns? Any ideas?

Thanks
Jim
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:40 AM
  #23994
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: JWQ500RC

I have a Saito 82. I just replaced the cylinder, adjusted the valves and now it runs ok, but the high speed needle is only bout a 1/4 turn from being completly closed. It ideels fine, and seams to run a high speed ok. BUt the high needle setting seams to be way to closed. Shouldn't it bee open somewhere around 1-1/2 turns? Any ideas?

Thanks
Jim

LSN a bit rich affecting the HSN?
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:07 AM
  #23995
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Sr. Telemaster

Maybe, but I don't think so. Transision is good from idel to high speed. I'll take a look at the LS needle tonite when I get home.

Thanks
Jim

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Old 01-15-2013, 01:09 PM
  #23996
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rowdyjoe

We established the ''SPA West'' division last year and had a great turnout at almost all of the events held west of the Mississippi. The SPA West ''Ft. Worth Open'' was flown at my home field this year ....The Ft. Worth Thunderbirds facility on Benbrook Lake.
The Intruder is a good flying plane and is capable of winning contests as has been demonstrated several times in SPA contests. .

RJ

What is an SPA competition ????
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:50 PM
  #23997
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Senior Pattern Association. There is a cutoff date for models to compete. I think it is only open to models available no later than 1975.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:13 AM
  #23998
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Jim, the LS needle will only effect the HS needle when the LS needle is too lean, since the HS needle has a fixed seat, set it at peak before you attempt to set the LS needle. Setting the HS needle at full peak eliminates one variable.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:11 PM
  #23999
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need rocker arm pin or screw for a saito 50 the 56 part will work also horizon does not have it and at a loss
any one out there have one as i sure could use it
thanks
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:19 PM
  #24000
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Check out Hobby Headquarters in OZ or go direct to Japan
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