slopoke

My Feedback: (16)

On cold days I fly in the local gym with battery power and dream of warmer weather to get the Saitos out.

FNQFLYER

reference previous p[ost , does any one know how to get the spell checker to work automatically???

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Use fast reply

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Don't worry abou it. It gives the rest of us something to point and giggle about.

RJ

hsukaria

I got the HSN from Horizon Hobby and ran my Saito 82 on the bench. The outside temp was 28 deg F, so not too bad. I used an OS type F plug, and APC 14x4W prop, and Rich's Brew YS/Saito blend (20% nitro, 20% synth. oil). I peaked the engine at 10200 rpm but richened it back to 9500 rpm and idles at 2500 rpm.
So I am very happy with my Saito and plan on mounting it in my Great Planes U Can Do 46.

FNQFLYER

Glad I provide some comic relief, though I do hope some of my suggestions / observations ) are at least read in the spirit intended.
Re the man with the Saito 62 running the 14 x 4 prop, bit big unless one is looking at an event like O/T Texaco better off with a 12 or 13 x6, but I do approve of the fuel very similar to our racing fuel, most important to keep the oil quantity in the mix, Saito recommend 20% synthetic (at least) in the modern 4 strokes 

jstyle13

My Feedback: (1)

I just bought a Saito 56 to go on my LT40 build. You guys still handing out numbers Saito club? I'd like one if you are. Thanks!

Rudolph Hart

If i hear texaco one more time i think the brain will go blah

Hi mate i've been using 10% syn and 5% castor for donkeys ages,no dramas yet.Does too much oil slow your saitos down?

FNQFLYER

Whats wrong with Texaco events.  Re the oil thing I follow the manufacturers recommendations.  On the new Saitos it is suggested that 20% synthetic is used (we have had a fight with the Rules committe over that one), different with the older engines but for simplicity sake we use the same in all the engines.  Nitro mix for Texaco is 10%  (VP usually) however for Duration we use standard YS mix, 30% nitro 20% high viscosity heli oil (Klotz) once again to simplify the logistics.  Works well and engines last a long time.  I only use castor in diesels these days and given modern oil technology castor might be on its way out there as well (especially on the go fast enyas)
catch ya 

FNQFLYER

Didn't answer your question the answer is no, oil technology for our engines can be as complex as for 1:1 aircraft engines.  One can go into brain overload if one allows it.  Me I run the odd simulation when a new product comes my way and if it does give at least 10% increase I bin it, not worth the worry.  Castor gums up engines synthetic doesn't, that is my experience in various climates and varying performance scenerios.  That is the reason why I moved to them years ago but I think it is the Ford V Holden thing in the end.  What works for me does (likewise for my competition mate) and that is where we are at,   It helps here that the components are cheap relative to the rest of the world as well.
I am about to embark on a trip into using gas engines which I think will be a whole new ball game.  I have that FG20 and the 36 to play with and they are next on my list to be fitted to the Storch and the Swordfish respectively.  Fingers crossed it all works out ok

hsukaria

It's not that I am nitro crazy, I got that fuel because it was available cheap with 20% oil. I also plan on trying a 14x6 prop on the 82 later on.

FNQFLYER

For performance we run 13x6 on the 62 as a maximum size more often a 12x6 but they are special builds.  The 14x6 should be ok as a sports prop but I would use a 13x6 in APC

nextofkin

My Feedback: (8)

What would be a good prop for a .72? It's in a Seagull Space Walker had a 12 X 8 on a OS 70 and it pulled the plane real good thought it might be the same but by recomendations of the .62 I don't know.

Cherokee Flyer

62's run real good on a APC 12/6. 72's like a 13/6 of thesame brand.

L.

hsukaria

By that trend, for an 82, a 14x6 should be just right.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Help ....
Irebuilt the carb on my FA80GKwith new parts but, now the low speed needle housing (?) has play in it. That is, when Ipush on it, it will push inward toward the carb. Needless to say, that problem makes it impossible to tune. Which part did Ileave out? Everything else appears to be tight.

Garry

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Hobbsy,
Just a quick note to let you know how happy Iam with the FA-80 I got from you. As you may recall, Imounted it on an H9 Fokker DVIIand it's a perfect match for that bird. It idles so nice that you can barely hear it run. I'm still running a 14x6 Xoar on it and it's doing the job well and looks fairly scale in size.
Itook an opportunity to fly it last week, after not flying it for a couple of months, and she's still the queen of the fleet. Not the fastest and certainly not the most aerobatic but, a sweet and stately airplane with a great engine.

Garry

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Irun a 14x6 Xoar on an FA80 high compression and it works just fine. I can't recall the RPM as it's been a while since I tached it but, it hauls my H9 DVII (approx. 9 lbs) around very well.

hsukaria

Good, I'm putting it in a 7 lb plane.

FNQFLYER

When working on prop comparisons I use the following formula
2 x prop diameter plus pitch to get a figure  eg 12 x6  ==a figure of 30.  If I want to use say a 13 ich prop multiply te 13 by 2  which gives a figure of 26 so the pitch would be 4.  I emphasise that these are only starting figures but it gives you a rough ball park to start working in.  It doesn't of course take into account prop design, blade shape and twist or flexibility of the blade

Rudolph Hart

There should be a small spring that sits behind the rotating barrel and a guide screw on the outside of the body that protrudes into a slot in the barrel.

Rudolph Hart

I find the best performance prop for my 82's is apc's 14x6 you should tach around 8800 on 10% nitro.If anyone has found something better please add your thoughts.The 62 is quite happy with an apc 13x6 can't remember the prop figures on 25% nitro.

FNQFLYER

I agree Old fart.  People forget that different props perform differently according to the installation.  My best every YS 53 prop was absolute crap on similar sized engines (2 strokes) mainly because of the rev range they were working in.  At best our modelling activities are a bunch of compromises that tend to work well on the day.  It is only when one delves in to the competition arena that it gets more problematical.
The best example of this I can give is a control line speed guy from Victoria turned up at the National Champs with an Irvine 21 powered east.  He had a weather station as part of hs pit set up and 30 different heads and 10 different glo plugs and a book full of data to go with that lot.  The cost alone for the set up would have bought me a number of Saitos or YS's. Unreal.
As I said once before play with the available gear (buy more if inclined and financially able) and in the end "what works for you is the right solution, stick with it until something better comes along"  

hsukaria

Speaking of propeller types, is there ever a time when a wood prop would be good for a 4-stroke? I was told that you want a heavier prop like APC for the flywheel effect.

BTW, my FA82 does not have the barrel spring. Is that ok? I haven't noticed any problems.

FNQFLYER

I use wood props for the first run and then unless it is called for on a scale model I do not use them.  When the splinter is is spectular to say the leastand all wooden props (1:1 included) suffer from compressio around the hub.  While there is better available why not use it??