Dolphpb

My Feedback: (2)

Sorry, false alarm. Found it on Horizon discontinued list. The guy on the phone said they didn't have one. Now they only have one left...

FNQFLYER

old fart, i am still doing moving stuff, but best of all i get to supervise.  the op is next week and i am sitting at home waiting for the swelling to go down and the repair bits to be made.
now firstly a question, has any one used a magneto type set up on a saito, if so how did it go what gear did you use etc
re the high revving little engines, stronger valve springs seem to be the fix and in one case using 2 springs per valve, but the push rods bent so they had to be remade, now all seems to be working ok.  we actually experimented with some grenade type engines, modifyed them and run them to distruction, them back of on the mods until we got a sort of reliable run and then took them to the state and national comps.  they were cheap and not saitos.  for experiments thee we usually use well worn out saitos that have bearings etc replaced and te played with, once the results are in we then on sell them to people who know what they are getting and are happy for them.

FNQFLYER

blw did you know that taipan model engines were made in oz and gordon burford was the chief advisor etc to thunder tiger in taiwan.
we have a small but apparently thriving replica model engine business here replicating a lot of gordon's engines.  still not as good as saitos though

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I would just enjoy flying it. I always like hearing the engine get smoother and fuel consumption drop. The low idle rpms will come with time and better low speed needle tuning.

I was kidding about ASP. It stands for Acceleration, Speed, and Power.

Rudolph Hart

Hi mike i've never run a 56 just the 62 which i regret selling.Envious of your weather,no flying here for days now.

Fnq why are you interested in a magneto setup?? and could you guys really produce a NFG engine? it's got a nice marketing ring to it!

FNQFLYER

old fart start with ceramic bearings and liner, double valve springs and very carefully balanced bolly props from our extensive stash.for those rpm and a good mix of steriods also helps.
the magneto thing, spark ignition (with a magneto) gets a better fuel allowance in texaco and better time run in duration and will swing a bigger prop on methanol than the normal beast and most importantly cdi is not allowed.
see what i am doing now chasing up on a number of ideas that have been in the breeze for a while.  without the drugs the brain almost works but unfortunately i can not do without them for any extended period though i am reducing the quantity.











0










0 gets abetter fuel allowance

Ernie Misner

As it breaks in you can gradually go leaner and leaner on the bottom end for a while. Should get smoother and smoother with better economy at the same time. Lean the bottom out until it ticks over like a sewing maching but falls flat when you hit the throttle. Then richen it back up a tiny bit. (yes it is a compromise as are all things in life) When you are on the ragged edge of perfection like that weather conditions do matter and require a quick tune one way or the other.... just barely. Or when traveling to a field that is at a slightly different altitude. ( Less oxygen in the air = slightly leaner setting). Or changing the nitro %.

mike109

G'day OF and Saito persons.

We had another great day today. Similar weather. I only flew electric models today (sorry) as I ran out of time to get things ready. I spent most of the morning getting my Substitute Harley Davidson (Yamaha 49cc Jog scooter) re-registered after a two year rest. It really is amazing - this little thing has an engine smaller than many models these days. It has been suggested to me that I should pull the motor out of it and put it in a plane. I think it has a magneto as it will start with a completely flat battery. Old Timer engine perhaps?

Cheers

Mike in Oz

FNQFLYER

gee are they warming up in dubbo?
mike, did you know that the "not the nationals" for o/t is being run by sam1788 at coota in october and steve gulluck is running "the nats" at wang in december
if you go you'll see lots of saitos in action and lots of ys's and o/t sparkies.  well worth the visit as it is just down the road from you.

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, Ernie. I know that "Patience is a Virtue" but when the Good Lord was handing it out, there was someone in line ahead of me and I couldn't wait. I did set up the idle as you suggest. I have tried the suggestion I saw somewhere of using "Throttle Delay" to keep the engine from dying if you bang the throttle open. It seems to work. I plan to go out today and burn some fuel!

dmrcflyr2

My Feedback: (43)

It definitely was not. When the ASP engines came out in the early 90's the boxes said that ASP stood for Acceleration, Speed, Performance.

dmrcflyr2

My Feedback: (43)

Does anyone know the timeline or significance of the box colors for the Saito engines? I have seen and owned engines that came in the black and gold box and some in the blue/tan/white box. I am acquiring a lightly used Saito 65 and from the pictures is comes with the later model muffler, aluminum pipe and mate black header and the blue/white/tan box. I also have a Saito 65 that I bought without a box that had the original single piece muffler. I also have a FA-45S that, if I remember correctly, I bought new in WI in 2000, that was in the blue/white/tan box. According to this website, http://saito-engines.info/, and I quote, " Notes: The Saito-45S was sold in Europe and Australia but not in the US.". Does this mean that the blue/white/tan box is a European version?

Any insight and information? Thanks.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Patience pays off with Saitos. It's actually a great process to see the engine get smoother and better. As mentioned, the low speed is the most important adjustment on the Saito. They can be tuned and left alone for a couple of years.

Yep. I had the Performance part of ASP wrong.

Rudolph Hart

I agree barry they get smoother and smoother.The low speed gets easier to adjust too for those who are thinking of giving up on it thru sheer frustration.

That was a really really good joke about what asp stood for

skrez

My Feedback: (15)

Hi Guys,
I have a saito 100 that I purchased new a few years ago. I was going thru my engine maintance over the winter and noticed the bearings were rough so I sent it in to Horizon. I just few it last last week and was having all kinds of trouble tuning it. I`m using a 14x 8 apc prop that I was tacing at about 9200 at full trottle . I`m having alot of trouble re-tuning the idle and could not get it to idle under 3000 rpms relieable.Also it seemed to run rich at full trottle but when I was flying I did`nt see any smoke so I landed and riched up the high speed needle. I took off again and the engine did`nt seem to run right so I set up for my landing and my engine died. I managed to make a smooth landing but I wondering what the problem might be. I will try changing the glow plug and fuel and see what happens?What do you guys think?
Frank

hsukaria

I know that my Saito FA-82 spins a 14x6 prop at around 10000+ rpms. So, your 1.00 should spin the 14x8 prop a lot better than 9000 rpm, IMHO. Did you check that all the bolts are tight? How about the valve gaps? I am not sure the repair center would necessarily adjust those unless specifically paid for it.

If you have a test bench, I would set on the bench and run it/adjust it. That would give you easier access to the engine for tuning/checking, and also eliminate the possibility that the problem is in the plane fuel system.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Frank, when setting the LS needle do it with the HS needle at full peak, not even one click rich, otherwise you'll end up chasing the LS needle all over the place. As the idle improves keep lowering the throttle setting as low as you can get away with until you get to 2,000. Then fly it with the idle set at about 2,200, you'll be a happy camper/flyer. The LS needle controls the mixture for about 85% of the throttle range so economy improves drastically as the idle improves. Rich 1.00s are also shaky 1.00s.

skrez

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks Hobbsy,
I`m using a tack, but how will I know when My 100 is peaked since it is hard to tell from sound with 4-stroks?
Frank

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

"Rich 1.00s are also shaky 1.00s."


Hey Hobbsy, does that also pertain to 1.80's?

Bob

SrTelemaster150

FA180s are just shakey from the getgo. I was amazed at the difference between an FA180 & an FA150. Although the 180 shakes a bit more @ idle. it will idle consideably slower than a 150 & seems to be an all around more user friendly engine compared to the 150..

Not saying that the FA150 is not a great engine, just that the FA180 is a bit mre well mannered.

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

I've noticed that every time I retune the idle on my 100 (every 4 or 5 flights), the stable idle speed is lower and the shaking is reduced. The tip of tuning the idle with the WOT at peak is key to getting it right. The only hassle is taking off the cowl as I can't seem to hit the idle screw with the cowl on.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Frank, just sneak up on the peak one click at a time, between changes allow a few seconds for the engine to stabilize. At the peak the engine will slow about 50 rpm when you go one click lean. Back er up a click or two, sometimes when you think you have the peak the rpm will wander a little, one more click rich should eliminate the wandering.

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

It is also important to realize that this is an iterative process, especially if you are a ways off optimum. Peak at WOT, go to idle and adjust the mixture there, then back to WOT and so on. The first time I set mine up, it took four or five iterations before I got to a point where I could not see a change at either end.

hsukaria

The wandering at peak is something I have experienced but did not make sense out of it. Thanks Hobbsy for that helpful info.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

If you want to see exactly where the low speed need phases out and the high speed needle controls the mixture, just set your low speed smoking rich and the high speed at peak (which is putting out almost no smoke). Advance the throttle and watch the smoke. It disappears when the throttle is about 80% open thru full throttle. As you reduce the throttle from WOT you will see the smoke begin to return as the low speed starts back in under about 80%.