Ken Kehlet

My Feedback: (89)

Hi capt RKO,

Check that PROP ! if it's WOOD and it has been on the engine for a while, the wood has been crushed just a little each time you tighten the prop nut. Problem is, after sitting for some time the hub is crushed and the prop is actually loose. It can shear with a backfire or throw a blade at high RPMs. If the Prop is Old, Replace it.

Regards and Good Luck,

Ken AMA 1528

Garthwood

Hobbsy..............Nice workhorse. I have two of these. One in the Hangar 9 F4U CORSAIR .60, the other one is going in an Aero-Works YAK 54 60-90. Enough power for 60-90 size a/c. My WACO 1:6th has the Saito 91, built light and awesome flyer.

Skids-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

Hello.

I have a question regarding replacement parts for my Saito FA-150 (engine code CC) and was hoping someone could help me out.

My FA-150 has a screw broken off in the cylinder (screw that holds the rocker mount to the cylinder) and I don't think I'm going to be able to extract it. I looked at the spare parts on Horizon and Advantage and these cylinders (engine codes CC and GG) have been back ordered for some time now. Horizon lists another cylinder under the FA-150, but it appears to be the one for the current model (engine code BI). However, it lists both engine codes BI and CC in the part description. The cylinder looks physically different. Does anyone know if the BI cylinder is interchangeable with the CC cylinder?

Thanks,

LB

Garthwood

LB..........Your best bet is to call or email Horizon Tech Services. They're the people who can answer your question, just my opinion.

Charles.

SrTelemaster150

There is absolutely no difference (dimensionaly) in the old style & the new style "B" engine cylinders.

The only difference is the case & cam housing. Everthing else is identical. this holds true for the Fa180 as well. I have used cylinders from "B" 180s on my early versions.

I have a used FA150 cylinder if you are interested. I took it off the engine that I built into the high compression FA180HC. Nothing wrong with it.

PM me if you are interested. I also have 4 pairs of used FA120/150 valves.

jeffie8696

I am thinking of the 1.0 for my Sig 1/4 scale Cub. My buddy Bruce at Brucercengines.com has a few , I better snag one before yall grab em.
Going to the tax man tomorrow.

SrTelemaster150

I would go for the FA115. Smaller footprint, (same as the FA91S) more power, (2.1HP compaered to 1.8) only 36 grams heavier & only $30 more.

Ernie Misner

Hi Hobbsy! I too bought a nearly new 100. Mine will be going in the new UCanDo SF. Looks like a match made in Heaven! For fun fly, how about a 15x4W APC? Thanks.

jeffie8696

Bruce doesn't have any 115s.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

Do you think I can make a .91 work there or should I start the process of finding a 100 in good condition for less than the national debt?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Jim, they're about the same. Just use less prop.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I always think of the the 1.00 as being a 14x7 engine and the .91 as a 14x6 engine. A Bolly 13.5x8 works very well on the 1.00 also. After checking the engine further, pulling the backplate, the rear bearing is rusty. It appears to have been run on full synthetic. The interior is clean and bone dry like synthetic leaves the interiors.

Ernie, I don't do fun fly so I am not in the know when it comes to that,but I always think bigger is better when it comes to props, so my inclination would be toward a 16x5=14x6. If you have a 16x5 maybe you get us some numbers. Thanks

jeffie8696

Generally I use higher pitched props on my 4S engines in sport planes, due to their lower operating rpms it allows me to throttle back and still maintain air speed. The only current exception is my Stearman which I use a larger diameter prop with a lower pitch for a more scale flight and appearance.

SrTelemaster150

I'm running a 15 X 5 on my FA91S which should be about the same as the 14 X 6 as far as static RPM. I chose the 15" prop because it was close to "scale" for a 1/5 J-3 Cub & the 5" pitch would give a good "scale" flight speed & maximum thrust.

W/about 13# of thrust @ 9700 RPM on an 8#ish airframe, I'm hoping that it will make my 1/5 scale World Models Cub perform like this 1/4 scale J-3 W/an FA180.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN1_-xmVLIo

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I have a 16x5 ProZinger for an unfinished Kellett Auto Gyro, It should provide 8# of thrust on the Saito 1.00. That's the thrust it takes to fly the Kellet well. I believe Steve came up with that thrust using a Saito .91 so the hunnert should make a little more.

acdii

Thats what I have, a FS100 but in the Golden Knight package. Pretty engine, hate to hide it behind a cowl, so havent decided what to put it on yet.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The engine will 'unload' more with the larger diameter prop once in the air. I give myself a thousand rpm leeway, and wouldn't be surprised if I sometimes got more. I didn't tach a .91 that I bought, but it sounded awesome with the APC 15x6 that I put on it to bench run. Unless disappointed in the air, I'm using that prop just from how strong the engine sounded with it. If the 91 is as good as it sounds on the bench then I'm buying a dozen more of them.

SrTelemaster150

I originally had a 15 X 4 on the FA91S & it turned 10,400 RPM static after I advanced the timing to 35° BTDC. That was too close to the 11,000 RPM maximum recommended RPM. I figured it would over rev in the air after it unloaded.

The 15X 5 loaded the engine down to 9700 RPM static. I don't think an 84" WS J-3 will allow enough airspeed to allow the prop to unload more tha 1300 RPM, even in a shallow dive.

I think 1300 RPM give me enough "cushion".

jeffie8696

Got my 1.00 on layaway.

FNQFLYER

Love the sound of "unloading" 4 strokes. Saitos are great but the YS 53 / 63 really changes up a gear and goes from fast to screaming. The 62 Saito on steroids (around 40% nitro) almost equals the YS. In any case removes the need for a pacemaker when one is flying Duration (vertical drag racing) events

Garthwood

J.........Good choice. I'm installing my 5 yr. old Saito 1.00 mounted at 45 degs. (not inverted) on an Aero-Works Yak 54 60-90 QB. I pulled it out of my GP UCANDO 60. I had it serviced at Horizon last fall. It's a great little engine. I wouldn't recommend to install this engine inverted. I had mine inverted but I installed the Sullivan on board glow driver running on a dedicated 4.8v battery, no more dead sticks after that. Very economical little powerful engine.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is the rusted rear bearing from my newly purchased Saito 1.00, the front seems OK but at 11 bucks for the set and free shipping from BOCA I'll change it anyway. The cam is fine, the crank is fine, The rod was frozen in the piston and the ring was stuck in its groove., I shot it up with PB Blaster and laid the piston on my shop heater and in about 10 minutes both the rod and the ring were completely free.

SrTelemaster150

Even when running CDI I also avoid running inverted to 6:00. I do not go quite as far as 45°. I offset the engine 15° so that the exaust valve is @ 6:00. That allows oil to run out of the exhaust when the engine is turned over after storage.

Oil will seep down & foul the small 1/4 X 32 sparkplugs when stored.

jeffie8696

My new Saito 100 will be going in a SIG Cub so a 90deg installation should be excellent.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just popped a seal off of the 100's front bearing and it's rusty too.