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Old 08-20-2014, 08:51 AM
  #27301  
Hobbsy
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This is the Tork-it I use, I trust it, if you go to 4 inch pounds it concaves the washers. On Saito aluminum backplates I torque them to 6 and the carb bolts to 8. Never had one come loose.

PS, Jim has the same torque wrench that you use.
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Last edited by Hobbsy; 08-20-2014 at 08:53 AM.
Old 08-20-2014, 09:48 AM
  #27302  
aggieman
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Hey guy's, my after run oil for years has been Klotz techniplate or super techniplate in all my 2-strokeswith absolutely no bearing rust,i do live in southwest Alabama where the heat and humidity are bad, the Klotz Techniplate flashpoint is 460-f, max RPM is 13000, and pour point is -15F. The Super Techniplate is blended with 20% BeNOL racing castor,flash point460F,max RPM is unlimited,and the pour point is-9F.Would this be an ok afterrun oil in my new Saito 4-strokes?
Old 08-20-2014, 02:35 PM
  #27303  
Charley
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
KEN, that is one reason I used Corrosion X for a long time, Sheldon's in California sold it as an ARO but it's real purpose was to protect electronic components in a salt air environment. We are surrounded by water here as well. The Potomac is 6 miles away and 9 miles across and we are surrounded by its backwaters. So far the NAPA Fogging Oil works.and is about 1/4 the cost of the CX.
If you fly float planes another use for CX is to waterproof your electronics circuit boards. You have to drench the boards & let them drip dry but it works.

CR

Last edited by Charley; 08-20-2014 at 02:39 PM.
Old 08-20-2014, 02:39 PM
  #27304  
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Ok people, the white stuff I found on the threads of the screws holding the cylinder into the crankcase on my 65 (first trime strip) was analysised as part corrosion part "locking compound". This was done by the lab doing the spectro analysis of our engine oils (P&W JT8D). Like one of the correspondents I lube all the treads with ATF prior to installation on a rebuild. I use either SQ32 (Hylomar, "Rolls Royce Blue Glue" its other names) where sealing gaskets are required in fuel "systems" and RTV 105 (orange) for oil gasket seals. The SQ 32 also works there. ATF has been used as a preservative in my modelling circles since time immemorial, good stuff and handy. It is a smoother blend of MIL H 5056 (red hydraulic oil, mineral type). On torque wrenches, I have seen the "cone heads" (avionic techs) use them to torque up screws on LRU's (black boxes that drive modern a/c) in particular the mounting bolts on boards on the inside. I have one of these that reads as low as 2 inch/ pounds, however I generally use a calibrated right arm during model engine assembly. On the locktite thing they have a very good set of date on application of their various fastening liquids and they also have a number of release agents for this stuff. I use 742 with its appropriate release agent (forgot the number) as appropriate in my shed. I have also found that nail polish works as a locking agent and nail polish removes the need for excess force when one is trying to undo the bolt / screw.
Old 08-20-2014, 03:25 PM
  #27305  
N1EDM
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Hi SrTelemaster,

Not to start an argument, but Loctite 242 is intended for fasteners that are 1/4" and up. They make a Loctite 222 (purple, I think, and a little harder to find) for removable fasteners that are the smaller size of the backplate screws on the Saito. However, I am not sure if the Loctite will have negative effects on the plastic. It is intended for metal fasteners. If some Loctite accidentally got onto the plastic backplate, it might craze the plastic, so please check, whether you use 222 or 242.

Just my $.02

Bob
Old 08-20-2014, 05:41 PM
  #27306  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by N1EDM
Hi SrTelemaster,

Not to start an argument, but Loctite 242 is intended for fasteners that are 1/4" and up. They make a Loctite 222 (purple, I think, and a little harder to find) for removable fasteners that are the smaller size of the backplate screws on the Saito. However, I am not sure if the Loctite will have negative effects on the plastic. It is intended for metal fasteners. If some Loctite accidentally got onto the plastic backplate, it might craze the plastic, so please check, whether you use 222 or 242.

Just my $.02

Bob

Read my post a little closer Bob. I stated that I don't typically use Loctite on my Saitos. The only time I ever used it was to secure a stud in a partially stripped back plate hole on an FA-150. I used the studs so I could mount a Perry oscillating pump & there were only a few threads left in the bottom of the blind hole. Since I never intend to remove the studs & the FA-150 does not have a plastic back plate, I feel little reason to be concerned.

After all of the years using both 242 & 271 (where appropriate) I have yet to find an instance where the fastener couldn't be removed W/reasonable force W/the proper hand tools.

What are you guys doing to get such a near permanent bond?
Old 08-20-2014, 06:44 PM
  #27307  
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Here is the stuff I use when I need screws and bolts to remain in place. http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/thread.html

I use it on the screws and nuts to secure the struts, linkages, etc, much smaller than the bolts on the Saito.
Old 08-20-2014, 07:29 PM
  #27308  
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Originally Posted by Charley
If you fly float planes another use for CX is to waterproof your electronics circuit boards. You have to drench the boards & let them drip dry but it works.

CR
Thanks Charley
That one I was aware of from some float fly threads. Right now nothing is on floats. But I have intentions of correcting that. Plus I want to make another airboat. this time big enough for my Ryobi 31cc

I had one plane in the mid '90s that was on floats. Loved that.

Ken
Old 08-21-2014, 02:14 AM
  #27309  
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[QUOTE=SrTelemaster150;11864642]Read my post a little closer Bob. I stated that I don't typically use Loctite on my Saitos. The only time I ever used it was to secure a stud in a partially stripped back plate hole on an FA-150. I used the studs so I could mount a Perry oscillating pump & there were only a few threads left in the bottom of the blind hole. Since I never intend to remove the studs & the FA-150 does not have a plastic back plate, I feel little reason to be concerned.

After all of the years using both 242 & 271 (where appropriate) I have yet to find an instance where the fastener couldn't be removed W/reasonable force W/the proper hand tools.

Just had to add a space here cause i deleted the last line of sr's post above,and mine just carried on from that (his post) who wants to play hide the locktite ?

Ya know sometimes it's not what you know,which is valuable,it's how you say it.If people like and appreciate what is being said to them generally,they are more receptive to your knowledge/ideas and opinions.

Now pucker up and smile mate

Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 08-21-2014 at 02:20 AM. Reason: woops!
Old 08-21-2014, 05:25 AM
  #27310  
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l know it's a littel off topic! OK! A it's (LOT) Off Topic! BUT! l'm taking my Satio 91 off of my (wife's) BT13, Don't fly it anyway, l got a 1/5 scale long EZ and l can not for the life of me find the CG? RCU, Flying giants, Etc..... Have looked for Plans on web. FAILED!!! It's a OLD Cressline Kit, 40-46 size, 1/5 Scale and the only reason l ask, you guys seem to be wiser then most. l get a lot of deferent answers form the guys at our club and it always starts with "WILL I THINK...." NO! NOT GOING TO WORK FOR ME! Hope one of ya, remember this kit. Thinks.
Old 08-21-2014, 09:19 AM
  #27311  
VeeAte
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Bought a heap of glow motors off a friend converting to electric and now have:

FA-45S
FA-50
FA-56
FA-65
FA-90R3

Old 08-21-2014, 11:38 AM
  #27312  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by slamn sammy
l know it's a littel off topic! OK! A it's (LOT) Off Topic! BUT! l'm taking my Satio 91 off of my (wife's) BT13, Don't fly it anyway, l got a 1/5 scale long EZ and l can not for the life of me find the CG? RCU, Flying giants, Etc..... Have looked for Plans on web. FAILED!!! It's a OLD Cressline Kit, 40-46 size, 1/5 Scale and the only reason l ask, you guys seem to be wiser then most. l get a lot of deferent answers form the guys at our club and it always starts with "WILL I THINK...." NO! NOT GOING TO WORK FOR ME! Hope one of ya, remember this kit. Thinks.
Usually the CG should be located @ the main wing spar or the thickest part of the airfoil.
Old 08-21-2014, 03:36 PM
  #27313  
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Re Cof G thing, 2 thoughts 1/3 of MAC (mean average chord) measured from the l/edge is a good place to start or look up the specs for the full size a/c to find same. Canards can be tricky. The addition of l/edge anti icing tape to the full size turned a nice a/c into a demon killing more than a few people around the world. The addition cased a change in airflow over the wing and the resultant turbulence when approaching the stall caused the a/c to fall out of the sky. Any model I have seen of this a/c exhibited the same charastics.
Old 08-21-2014, 06:30 PM
  #27314  
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Got my FG-11 today, fits the T-Clips perfectly. Reading the booklet it shows 20:1 oil ratio, is that right? Seems pretty heavy on the oil side, my DLE is 30:1.
Old 08-21-2014, 10:17 PM
  #27315  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Got my FG-11 today, fits the T-Clips perfectly. Reading the booklet it shows 20:1 oil ratio, is that right? Seems pretty heavy on the oil side, my DLE is 30:1.
The smaller gassers require more oil content in the fuel because they typically do not have roller bearings on the con-rod. 1:20 is still quite a bit lower compared to glow fuel.
Old 08-22-2014, 01:22 AM
  #27316  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Remember nick they are heavy drinkers over there so anything could have happened,just kidding fnq !

I've been everywhere looking for a rightangle breather locally and have just ordered one from HMZusa (an rc powerboat site) that sr kindly put me on to.They only state that it's a 5mm thread but after studying the thread pitch it looks close,i need a .8mm pitch so here's hoping.

Ps could we all 'borrow' hobbsys edit button for a day and see what happens ?

Sorry that should have been MHZusa,how do you get the spellcheck feature sammy ?
Sorry about that. My spell check is a POS, so is my spelling! l try to do the best l can. Like most of us, we rely on the spell check and if we cant spell it, how can we till if the spell check is right? Just doing the best l can. =-/ ? Please overlook my spilling.
Old 08-22-2014, 01:36 AM
  #27317  
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On the flip side. Went to the hobby shop yesterday ( this is now 4:24 am the next day, can't sleep) to buy the new Model Airplane New Buyers Guide and thats all! Walked of there with my Mag and a 20cc GoldWing Sbach. NO! l did not buy it,my WIFE did!! It said in the manual "20cc Gas, 70-91 two cycle, 91-110 Four cycle? Had not seen a 110? 120! My Q is, I'd like to put a Satio on and maybe a Satio tween?? it has a 67" Ws. the cowl is 7 3/4 wide. Any ideals?
Old 08-22-2014, 01:55 AM
  #27318  
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
Usually the CG should be located @ the main wing spar or the thickest part of the airfoil.
Well l get that, BUT! This is a canard, main wing is on the back & the stab is on the front? I know most kits, the CG is at the 25-30% or main spar. I set my CG on most planes l go from the LE to TE & mark the halfway point. then l go from the halfway point to the LE and mark it halfway. That would be 25% and on a flying wing, l go from the LE to the 25% mark and mark it ageen and that is where l start. BUT! This is a hole new dog??
Old 08-22-2014, 03:00 AM
  #27319  
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Originally Posted by slamn sammy
Well l get that, BUT! This is a canard, main wing is on the back & the stab is on the front? I know most kits, the CG is at the 25-30% or main spar. I set my CG on most planes l go from the LE to TE & mark the halfway points. then l go from the halfway point to the LE and mark it halfway. That would be 25% and on a flying wing, l go from the LE to the 25% mark and mark it ageen and that is where l start. BUT! This is a hole new dog??
When I read FNQFLYERs reference to canards, I went back & read your post more closely & saw that it was an EZ.

Yes, canards are a whole different ball game.
Old 08-22-2014, 03:59 AM
  #27320  
Hobbsy
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I thought everybody had an "edit" button so you can correct spelling, add content etc. Sometimes foreign kits call all engines gas engines regardless of the fuel they use.
Old 08-22-2014, 04:02 AM
  #27321  
Hobbsy
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V, you won the big lotto, you lucky dude.
Old 08-22-2014, 04:17 AM
  #27322  
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Acdc please do what the booklet says?

Sammy those carnards are very efficient at flying speed as you know,they can be hard to fly slow,best of luck getting the pitch and cg close.A long runway? is the missus missing her 91 yet ?
Old 08-22-2014, 04:37 AM
  #27323  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Got my FG-11 today, fits the T-Clips perfectly. Reading the booklet it shows 20:1 oil ratio, is that right? Seems pretty heavy on the oil side, my DLE is 30:1.
Your DLE has needle bearing on the rod journal & probably the wrist pin too.

The Saitos have the same bearings as the FA methanol engines or perhaps a bronze bushing at best.

Even at 20:1 some rid bearing failures have occurred. Some are going to 15:1, especially on the big radials.

Why would the same engine require 5% lube with gas when it requires 20% with methanol being delivered at nearly twice the fuel volume? That's 8 x the oil volume.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 08-22-2014 at 04:40 AM.
Old 08-22-2014, 05:20 AM
  #27324  
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
When I read FNQFLYERs reference to canards, I went back & read your post more closely & saw that it was an EZ
Yes, canards are a whole different ball game.
l finely found a set of CAD drawings on line. At the best i can figure the CG is around 1" in front of the main gear? l have a Satio 50 & a 91. Wonder witch one l need to use? When l got it, it had a Thunder Tiger 40 two cycle on it (l got it used, But! lt has never flown) There is a add in a old Tower Hobbies catalog from 1988! The add said this is a Cressline 1/5 scale model. Said it will take a 40-45 engine. Don't say what size four cycle? 62.5" WS. I'd like to use a four cycle.
Old 08-22-2014, 06:17 AM
  #27325  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Acdc please do what the booklet says?

Sammy those carnards are very efficient at flying speed as you know,they can be hard to fly slow,best of luck getting the pitch and cg close.A long runway? is the missus missing her 91 yet ?
Oh Ya! She told me to stop stripping flying planes to get a nuttier one flying! LOL. She bought a 20cc Sbach yesterday. l asked her "Are you going to build it?" She said "NO"! Are you going to fly it? She said "NO" So l asked her "Why did you buy it? She said "l like to see you fly and you and l always wonted a Sbach ever cents they came out" The funny part she barter'd him down! It 's a Goldwing 20cc plane new in box. l'm so lucky! LOL She spent $1500.00 one year for airplanes for Christmas one year. She stop'ed taking me to Wall Mart because l spend to much $, BUT! l'm going to make sure l take her to the hobby shop every time l go. LOL All l did for her yesterday was feed her. Funny??? l must be doing something right. I was just going to buy a magazine! HAY! l need some servos. "Honey, l need to go to the hobby shop, Want to go? LOL..... Later there Oldfart! Thanks For The Come Back!

Last edited by slamn sammy; 08-22-2014 at 06:26 AM.

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