Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Cougar429 - I will take a picture of the arm. The plastic on this one is pretty thin - that is why I don't like it. I will get more info on the motor and take some measurements.

Thanks

Keith

dbeeler

cougar, i would like to ask you a couple other questions:
1. in the second pic with the engine mounted sideways, you high speed and low speed adjusting screws are on the bottom or underneath the engine. how hard and "dangerous" does that make the adjustments?
2. regarding your 3rd pic, i have read that the stock saito muffler is "notorious" for coming loose from vibration and even falling off. have you had any problem with that?
thanks much
dave

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I like working with the plastic arms better, but metal ones have better longevity. There were a few posts recently about laminating metal to the plastic arms. This may have been on a 2 stroke engine, but I forget where I read that.

hsukaria

Out of desperation, I have hacked up servo arms to use as throttle arms, worked fine too.

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

Get a super Tiger arm, it works perfect

hsukaria

Or a Fox throttle arm. But wait, they are both out of production, oops..

flyingagin

Agreed. I do that a lot.

Ken

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Servo arms make a great transition point when the carb is too close to the firewall. It has the benefit of no slop and friction free operation.

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks guys - I will just make one.

Keith

Rudolph Hart

Hi barry i like the plastic servo arms and clevises on small saito airframes which vibrate a lot at some throttle settings,they outlast all my brass and steel stuff.Don't let trev talk you into starting up flying sams you seem like a normal medium block saito pilot who likes to get good performance and reliability out of the engine.Don't get hooked on what trev (fnq) likes doing to airframes and ehgines mate it could kill that lazy slow revving son of a so and so 125 you have sitting on a shelf if anybody you would think hobbsy our tractor factor grunty engine man would be breaking the leash to have at it,hope so.

Trev mum and dad said always be careful what you wish for.I wished to be disconnected 11/8/14(excuse the af measurement)and reconnected sometime in the next two weeks.Outsourcing communications to a sub saharan continent can have drawbacks for the customers no matter how carefully you repeat accurate information.Two weeks ago a new neighbour from across the road and down the street a bit came over to thank me for getting him reconnected.Remember state of the art scratch and smell cards from back in the sixties?.I hope i live long enough to own a new smart phone with a mild punching and slapping app for call centre people and phone sales reps,by all

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

dbeeler, I'll try and answer your questions in the order you posted.

All my 4 strokes so far have been mounted sideways and with these engines having rear center mounted carbs sometimes routing the throttle cable can be a bear. There are ways around this as I did with my first 91 in the Skybolt by milling the mount and bolting on a bellcrank. The link from that to the carb is a spare from one of my helis.

On subsequent installations I found that by flipping the carb so the throttle is towards the left side I could often route the throttle cable to the outside of the tank. This placed the LS needle towards the top so at first I would do setups and flights with the cowl off till I had a reliable LS mixture. From that point on only a tweaking would be required on the HS needle for environmental changes and with the extension protruding below the cowl that was relatively easy if you avoided the exhaust. I do normally have a small hole in the cowl above the carb so a long straight screwdriver can reach the LS needle. In that case I shut the engine down and make the adjustments, restarting and checking again. Rare and minor changes are all that's needed once the engine is broken in.

As for the exhausts, I consider myself lucky as I have NEVER had one come loose. By cleaning the threads and then lightly lubing them with air oil before installing, tightening down the lock nut gives a pretty good bite. As with full size engines a dry thread prevents smooth and accurate tightening. I have also thinned an open end wrench to ensure I can get a good purchase on the nut.

I only have the stock exhausts on one Saito and all my OS 4-strokes. The rest have Slimline and since only the short exhaust stub is there with minimal inertia, those do not seem to have the problem.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Having dealt with these pages going on 23 years I can say that Saitos are not notorious for the mufflers coming loose. I have never had it happen either as Cougar stated is also his experience. I use Teflon Plumbers Tape on the threads. It does happen now and then most likely due to being bashful with the wrench.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

One point I forgot to add is when installing the muffler, the best process I found is to fully seat the tube in the head, then back it off till aimed where you need WITHIN 1 ROTATION ONLY and lock it down with the nut.

Doing it this way ensures you have the highest thread engagement possible and can tighten the nut with less chance of tearing the threads loose in the alloy. With adequate clamping you minimize the microscopic physical movement between the pipe and head from thermal and mechanical loads which translated to wear and the chance of coming loose.

acdii

I also use Silicone Gasket sealer around the thread, the high temp red stuff. Have not had one come loose. It also keeps it cleaner s oil tends to seep out past the threads over time. Doing this keeps the engine clean, my OS52 still looks like new with several years of flights on it.

jamesroutledge

In addition to the other guys muffler advice, I then run the engine up to temperature, stop it, and immediately retighten the muffler nuts whilst it's hot.

Never had one come loose.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart we only use up to .65 in 4 strokes so your 125's are safe. Just got home from having a cataract removed from my right eye. 30 minutes in operating theatre, 1 hours prep 1 hours recovery and I was on my way home. Back to the doc's this am for bandage removal and I see him in a fortnight. Bloody unreal what I can see now and according to the doc I will have incremental imporvement over the next 2 to 3 weeks. Thus all bodes better for the Nats. However no flying for at least 2 weeks but for me it will be Jan 2 2015. HOWEVER I was helping my mate run a 65 on 60% nitro today a very interesting experience. We were comparing that to a YS 63 on similiar fuel. At the level we play at now 4 seconds run can mean up to a 100ft in actual height attained so stay tuned. Should have more info on the ceramic bits in the new year. My mate is in the process of ordering the appropriate bits
Have a good Xmas you guys, I'll be busy with family and general Xmas stuff, so catch ya later
.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

FNQFLYER, a few years ago I had a piece of saw flash bounce off my brow and get behind my safety glasses. Felt it hit my eye and when I blinked it was game over. Sliced off a good chunk of my cornea. Luckily the doc at emerg found it hanging by a small edge and folded it back in place. Let me know that he had done something similar in the past and was able to quell some of my anxiety. Eyes heal incredibly quickly.

It didn't take long before it was back to its regular near sighted self.

60% nitro..............ACK!!!!!

Rudolph Hart

Yup try it in a 30

acdii

So, Top Fuel Funny planes?

labebe

Hi, I have a brand new saito FG 14C. i can't find where in the CdI unit is the green colored ground wire. There is a wire with a terminal that is labeled as TACHOMETEr or RPM out put. Where is the green ground wire???Thanks

FNQFLYER

Whats wrong with you guys a little nitro doesn't hurt any body. BUT you have to be careful that you don't go to far eg 65% nitro is a retro step. Now the throttle arm thing. When I have problems with throttle cable runs I use the Dubro 4 stroke throttle arm thingy. (Check the catalogue). It is easier and for me as cheap to buy as making my own hence the reason for using same. Old Fart the 30 is used in Texaco a fuel economy contest (fuel allowance is dependannt on weight of a/c) hence big nitro quantities are self defeating BUT might be an interesting experiment. Playing with fuel mixes is but one variable in the overall performance chase and for those inclined lets out the inner evil scientist / chemist in all of us. No flying, the eye and family does today are the priority, good flying to all those lucky to be out and catch ya later

acdii

No green ground wire on those. The ground is black and is tied to the red one that connects to the battery, the tach lead is to connect to a tach readout, the third lead goes to the pickup on the engine itself.


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZRM8&P=ML

Also a good idea to use one of these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDVBT&P=ML

Rudolph Hart

Good answer for labebe.More nitro funny planes sounds good,you going to try upping your's? and don't believe everything trev says about going over 65% on a 30 he never completely unscrewed a main needle and took it out of the housing..poor fuel economy i know but..good luck with the eye mate.

ps i just tipped half a jug of two year old nitro out because i thought it may be off,i think it was barry or blw that said old glow fuel was good for weeds and ants around the house.Found that pure nitro flashes off to fast on weeds and if you pour a bit down a big anthole and strike a lighter well..it's dangerous being a smoker.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

For you or the ants?............................................. ..............Sorry, just got up and the caffiene hasn't kicked in yet.

The 65 I bought for $40 showed up Friday so I tore into it to have a look. Intake valve retainer missing and there appears to be some damage on the tip itself, but at least it didn't swallow the valve. Also, it looks like whoever worked on it before may have installed sealed bearings. Cam area dry as a bone with some serious wear on the downside ramp of, oddly enough, the intake lobe. Other than gaskets, and tube seals I will have to do some slight case and jug repairs. That same person installed a standard bolt to hold down the cam cover and one rocker arm pin has damaged threads. It was also missing the O-ring retainer on the intake tube. Wonder how it ran.

Went looking through some supplier pages. Would be nice if they could separate all those bits and pieces by engine size or alphabet.

Anyone out there have a defunct jug with the bits still attached?

Never saw a retainer go like that. Overspeed? If like a Circlip, wonder if nothing more complicated than installing it upside down.

labebe

Ok, I understand. Thanks.
I was confused because the manual clearly shows the green ground wire