blw

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks, Dave. A belated wish for you and yours too. Don't fool around with the upper chest infections.

SrTelemaster150

The Ti engines have the crank throws splayed @ 30° just as the cylinders. I have a standard 360° firing twin cylinder CDI on my FA-200Ti.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Dan, JR squared me away on that several pages back.

SrTelemaster150

Yeah after I posted I saw that he had linked my video.

spaceworm

Hi Hobbsy,

I am looking forward to that. No firm plans yet, but it will happen.

Best New Year's wishes to you and Yours. I hope your wife is feeling better.

Sincerely, Richard

CaptRKO

My Feedback: (3)

Anybody know or ballpark me on what my Saitio 300 twin is worth? Been running it in a 30% Christen Eagle and want to go all gas.....it is my last glow engine I own, it runs great just drinks the glow fuel like a sailor on liberty. I have a nice DLE-55 to take its place if I can find the Saito a good home.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

If it were mine I'd convert it to spark with a C& H Ignition and then use gas.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Cap, there is a 3.00 TL in the Market Place @ $800.00 that just got reduced to $750.00, that might give you a starting place. Brother Norton makes an almost good suggestion., as for me I'd convert it to C&H Ignition and still run it on glow.

SrTelemaster150

Is it single or dual barbs?

Convert it to CDI/methanol & the fuel consumption will be greatly reduced.

Homer712

My Feedback: (17)

Question here. I have a Saito 62 that I'll be installing in my winter build, a Jack Stafford Aircoupe (Leisure RC Models). Thinking I'd avoid the motor mount drilling experience I purchased from Horizon the Saito motor mount for that engine. There are NO center-line marks on the mount. I guess I could just "eye" it, but there has to be a better way. Anyone?

SrTelemaster150

In relationship the engine when it is vertical.

The top of the motor mount beam is the horizontal centerline. Measure the other dimension & find the center verticaly..

nashtm

Hi

My Saito 125 has been packed away for 5 years (with after run). Its feels stiff now - what should I do before running it agian?

Homer712

My Feedback: (17)

SrTelemaster150 - Thanks! Learn something new every day.

n8rloves2fly

My Feedback: (5)

Clean out with some denatured alcohol poor it down the carb and turn it over till its smooth!

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

n8rloves2fly, as I posted recently, at least drop some methanol down the case breather and let it sit. Once it has time it should loosen what I suspect is dried lube and deposits in the bearing/cam areas. It would be better if you pulled the carb and rear cover off to do a good cleaning. point the nose down, pour in methanol, let sit and then empty it on a clean cloth. Once it loosens up you can spin the crank-SLOWLY_ and then repeat the soak and drain until there is no more residue coming out with the methanol.

After that you need to dry the alcohol before oiling as it will prevent good penetration. After lube reassemble the back cover and carb and at least pull the valve covers to look for corrosion and check the valve lash. More oil in that area and down the pushrod tubes will help keep everything lubed until active fuel/oil reaches that area.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

O/K. Figured it would be better to keep this separate. Looks like I was able to locate most of what I require to put the 65 back together, but still missing that odd 7mm prop nut and washer.

One other bit has me confused. In the Saito Small/Medium manual the diagram looks to be for the big block engines and shows that spacer between the crank drive gear and the back of the front bearing. The part 26, Collar (Crankshaft) indicated only lists for the 50-56, the rest are blank, so not sure if it is required and may be thrown off by the bolt I found there when I pulled the crank. Been quite a while since I did my last 65 and can't remember.

Would appreciate someone with recent experience to let me know if that is empty space and the drive gear remains in place once up to temp, (located by a small roll pin pressed into the crank).

spaceworm

Here is part of Clarence Lees test of the FA65. Hope this helps. The http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...-65%20(2).html website lists a lot of engine tests.

SrTelemaster150

The FA-65 is a "medium block" engine & shares almost everyting except the rotating assemebly, valves & case W/the current FA-91S & the discontinued FA-80.

spaceworm

Quick questions: Will the prop driver with the ECDI trigger magnet for the gasoline 30 fit the FA 180 shaft? Does the FA 180 shaft have the slot into which the setscrew of that fits to lock the prop-driver in position? Who else provides the magnet fitted prop-driver for the FA 180 conversion to ECDI? Thanks.
Happy New Year to You and Yours.

Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), GB Anniv Cub (NIB)
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180

SrTelemaster150

Yes, no & nobody. I believe the FG-30 uses a pin in the prop shaft & a slot in the hub. Just make or buy a screw applied ring for the magnet or instal a magnet in the prop hub W/an adjustable hall sensor mount.

One or the other must have afjustment. On the big blocks the standard glow ignition prop hub will stay put after perhaps some small amount of slipage on the initial start up . I have only seen one Saito engine that wouldn't stay put & it was an FA-100 that had an aluminum tapered collet ring.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

spaceworm, I had already printed that report and did not see any spacer in the breakdown. Another article showed a different drive gear profile, with a raised boss front and rear, as well as a protruding nose in the gear casting that may have provided that spacing purpose. This is part of the confusion. Did Saito replace the one-piece with a separate spacer with the straight cut drive gear. Another bit impossible to define from the pic would be the use of spacers at the front and rear of the cam itself. Mine did not have any and would have to pull that apart again to see if there is enough of a gap for installation.

Some other differences were more standard, with brass valve seats instead of the non-addressable chrome over alloy.

rc lifer

Cougar- I have a 65 that I am fixing up and it has that same crank that you have in yours, it does have similarities to the 56. I wondered about the spacers also. I thought it was a crank from Saito's very early versions , but looking at the pics in C. LEES review the crank in that engine looks like the later models. I did put the black spacer washers on the cam as I had to replace the original cam and they fit just fine, they seemed necessary as the cam has a very narrow slot in the crank to run in. I have reassembled and it its turning over smooth with a prop tightened down on the the front of the engine. Maybe someone will remember what this odd crank is from and chime in.

spaceworm

Did you see/read the FA65 update from the Sceptre website. It addresses changes made to the FA65, which included strengthening the case and lowering the compression ratio. I did not read the article in enough detail to see other changes that were made. Early Saito used brass valve seats; later ones used plated aluminum. But, I can't tell you which were which. Good luck.

Sincerely, Richard

rc lifer

Cougar, Oh I forgot to add the con rod in this 65 is bushed at both ends.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I think my 91's are the only ones without bushed con rods. Of all of my engines, that size was THE ONLY size to ever wipe one out, (crank end). Obviously, overheating didn't help.

Spaceworm, do you have a link to that Sceptre update?