rc lifer

Cougar. I bought a PSP test stand, and though it is expensive, it is the the best I have owned. Very high quality, easy to set up and adjust.
Glad to hear your 65 is coming together.

Rudolph Hart

Thanks mate yes it does re the 30.On 10% it would rip a mas 10x6 at around 10800.So i'm interested to see how you choose to use the engine and airframe combo.Now as far as your confusion with jr programming goes you've just answered your own question,nobody i know sucessfully gets both of them right,futaba and jr,it's an in joke apparently.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I guess that's why I'm staying with my old Futaba 7C.

hsukaria

I got around the flap slowdown on my Futaba 9CHP by using the rotating sliders instead of toggle switches. I rotate the sliders slowly to bring down the flaps.

acdii

Thats how I would do it with my Futaba 8FGS, my problem would be I hit those rear sliders all the time, so would use the knobs on the face instead.

hsukaria

good point, I will do that too.

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

I prefer the sliders as I can keep my fingers on the sticks on the approach. Saved my plane more than a few times.

hsukaria

Depends how often you use the flaps. I hardly ever use them.

DBD1

I hope I'm not too late to the party to get a member #.

I just bought this little jewel for a future build project. My first Saito.



Thanks, Don

FNQFLYER

Believe it or not I have gone back to the original engine on this trainer, an ASP 60 two stroke. When I started reading about guys flying it with OS55AX's and weighing in at 11 pound plus (mine s less than that) I stopped worrying about overpowering. On the JR radio thing when I went computer radio back in the 90's I chose JR over Futaba because they had names for the various channels instead of numbers. I have never regretted the decision and once tackling the technology / options available in my current in use JR's (3 off) I have no regretts. For old farts sake consider the following, throttle cut off after 30 seconds, coupled with down elevator at engine cut and a bit of right rudder to counter act loss of torque effect. That is the set up in my duration models so I can / have mastered some of the technology just the "new" stuff that defeated me for a while. Now back to Saitos. Future planning indicates that the 115 will be going into a Marutaka Stinson Reliant with the flap mods incoporated. Long term project to be started after the Nats.

rc lifer

Hi DBD1 Welcome aboard. That 40a is one truely great motor, I have one on a 50" shoulder wing and I am more than pleased with it, and have a second 40a NIB. I own a bunch of Saito engines and like them all. The 40a I am running on my World Models Attack 20, is very efficient with fuel. I have a six ounce tank in it and after a twenty minute flight there is always about a third the fuel left in there. I am running the 40a with 20% Cool Power and swinging a 12.25x3.75 APC prop and spend most of the time at around 1/2 throttle, which has something to do with the economy, I am sure. What aircraft do you plan to put yours in? You will be pleased with your new Saito, guaranteed.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I've used both JR and Futaba. I really like the 10X but never had one. The only radios I don't like are the low budget ones where the menus are like hieroglyphics with tiny screens and cryptic symbols for simple things that you have to memorize. Still, I remember the days when that was all I could afford and felt on top of the world with it.

Rudolph Hart

Yes i think we tend to forget how lucky we are sometimes and tend to whinge about small things on otherwise good equipment.I use a jr9503,it must be easy to use as i programmed it myself and happy with the result.

DBD1

Thanks for the welcome rc lifer! I am planning on putting it in a GP T-Craft .20. It will fit by tossing the GP adjustable mount and using a Sig 2 piece poly mount. The 40a w/muffler also weighs slightly less than an OS 25FX w/muffler. It should make a neat little plane.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Maybe it's just me but I hate setting up those Sig 2 piece mounts. I have to admit they give a neater, less cluttered look to the firewall.

DBD1

blw, they are more of a pain to set up. The problem with the mount that came with the kit is that the area that mounts to the firewall is 5/8" thick with the molded in nose gear bearings, making the engine sit too far forward.
Perhaps I can cut off the bearings and gain enough room to make it work. Glad you brought that up.

hsukaria

That might buy you some space, but the mounting lugs are sloping upwards at that point also. So, not much of a gain except with a 4-stroke with the carb in the rear, like a Saito.

acdii

I prefer the SIG mounts over the GP ones, More clearance, and they are not that hard to set up. A good set of spring clamps to lock the motor to the mounts comes in handy.

spaceworm

I prefer the aluminum mounts that Saito recommend. I use a simple template of the engines mounting footprint to locate the hole pattern on the mount. I keep the mounting templates for future use.
Sincerely, Richard

Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180

Rudolph Hart

Richard i like using good quality plastic engine mounts with stainless allen head self tappers and a mount with long beams,helps soak up that small range of vibration in our saito singles.

Trev i understand all about texaco and duration because you have been raving on about it here for yearsforget about the radio...if you are running large dia props on small/ish saito singles what's the prop torque like on take off and a steep climb out?

acdii

I use the aluminum ones when I can, if I dont have a mount, then I use the SIG ones. My FG-11 is using the one that came with it, I had to make some modifications to the firewall to make it work, but it works well. The one downside of metal mounts is if the bolts come loose for whatever reason, then you get metal on metal vibrations which can interfere with the radio, making or an interesting flight. On the SIG mounts, I always use a nylon locknut on the bolts, even though they are tapped and tight, gives that extra bit of insurance. It is a sure fire way of cracking the case in a crash though, or so I have discovered with my 100 GK.

haefeli

does anybody have issues with the 220 camshaft wearing something terrible?

spaceworm

+1 on the tapped holes plus insurance of Nylock nuts. Not that I don't crash, butusually I break off the firewall before I break the engine cases.

Sincerely, Richard

acdii

My P-51 hit at such an angle that the FW didn't break, the Fuse did in the middle, but the force on the spinner cracked the case. Had I not used the nuts, the bolts may have sheared out instead and not cracked the case. Eh it needed new bearings anyway.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart, With Texaco models the biggest problem is using enough revs to match the conditions. I usually use around 5,000rpm for take off (give or take a bit) and once settled into the climb drop back to about 4500rpm. This is applicable for all the saitos. However weather conditions determine rpm because height is the determining factor followed by engine run time. In Texaco engine torque is no problem. Duration, t/o is usually at max rpm and wing drop is expected BUT can be factored in to the t/o regime (I don't) so yes torque effect can be quite high. When I started using the YS I used 1/2 throttle for t/o and still dropped a wing but now I still do it sort off but it isn't as terrifying. The 65 has lots of grunt in duration mode and coupled with bolly carbon props can be a hand full if you are not on your game. But then if you launch the model with only the tail wheel touching the ground and and an 88 inch w/s model looks like the length of your little finger (if you can see it) after 30 secs then the torque doesn't really have enough time to manifest itself IF the set up is right. I could rabbit on but I think you get the idea.
On engine mounts, I use factory ones when I can afford them, and carbob fibre or f/glass otherwise. I use pk's (or self tappers if you will) on small engines and bolts and nylock nuts for bigger ones. I also have a collection of cast aluminium ones from an old manufacturer here in Oz that also get a look in occassionally.