smkrcflyer

Thanks acdii for confirming my assumptions. A new case is $29 that will bring my total rebuild parts cost to $55.

spaceworm

Let me know if these get into the thread. Good luck.

Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180

spaceworm

Similar problem. Anyone have a case new or used for an FA-180? Bare case ok, or, with bearings ok also.

Thanks
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180

acdii

Glow version, mine is gas. Was just saying that I broke the FG in the same way, just uses a slightly different method for Gas vs Glow.

spaceworm

[QUOTE=SrTelemaster150;11976370]Around 1988 I bought an Ariens "Jet" front tine tiller W/a tired 3HP Briggs from a close friend for $25
It burned oil so bad it would foul the plug after a few minute run....

I bet a Bowman's ring would have fixed the oil burning for, what, about $12.00?

BTW, what do you think of my converting my 120abc to ECDI and running methanol? It has bushed con rod ends so what oil % would I use? Thanks.

Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), GB Anniv Cub (NIB)
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Richard it works like a charm, here's a high compression 1.50

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks ACD, I suspected as much, I didn't read the Gas Instructions.

spaceworm

Thanks Dave, what oil % and Nitro did you use ? I have read that the 120abc was also high compression, does that read right by you? Thanks again.

Best regards to you and yours,

Richard

FNQFLYER

Gee I turn my back and all these comments turn up. So my piece. Cars, Triumph Spitfire with a 13B engine up front, on removing drive washers, I use the OS purpose made device where it fits, otherwise I take the back plate off (if it is a rebuild) and drive the shaft out through the back. On welding cracks, stop drilling cracks, small drills accurately placed will stop cracks, seen it many times on full size a/c however for cracked crankcases (and other speciality welding) I go to nearest airport and look up the a/c qualified welder, if he can't weld it forget it. But in the case mentioned, if the part is available why bother.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Richard, I too have read that some early 1.20's were high compression, I use WildCat 10% 2/4 which has 18% full synthetic. The 1.50 pictured above has 11.24 to 1 compression. I don't fly any planes that require that last enth of power so why torture the engine. You'll be amazed at how smoothly the engine does everything when equipped with CDI.

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...20FA-150S.html

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Only about 20% of them and it's not sure it can be passed on to humans from them. I looked it up. Shoot, we have Armadillo races at the Fairs, here in So. TX.

CR

skypup50

Spaceworm.....thanks. From my reading they don't mention a break in prop? I'm wondering what fuel and glow plugs might be good for the 60 twin? I was looking over a Top Flite Elder I had mostly built and set aside. If I modified the cowl area I could expose and use this twin. The plane calls for a 40 so it might be a good match for putting around.

spaceworm

I have not read the manual for awhile, but as I remember it, they do suggest a range of props and fuel and plug recommendations. I would go with their suggestions as they know their engines best.. Other opinions may vary. I use 10% nitro, 18% synthetic oil with enough castor to up the oil to 20% which is what they say to use. I like a little castor, although Saito say not to use only castor for lube oil. Enjoy.

Sincerely, Richard

acdii

+1 on Wildcat 2/4. I also add a bit of Klotz castor to it.

skypup50

Do OS type F glow plugs work well on saito engines? Is this the Klotz you use?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Saito's are not fussy about plugs, I mostly use Fox Miracle plugs but have GloDevil 4c plugs and Taipan 4c plugs in some of them.

SrTelemaster150

I am supposed to be getting 9 gallons of pure methanol in the spring. I am going to mix 10% Klotz Technoplate W/O nitro to do comparisons.

If a gas engine can run @ 5% lube why can't a methanol engine do the same when there is a 40% increase in fuel mix volume?

I believe the high lube % of glow fuel is to protect against the unstable ignition timing & detonation associated W/GI. Unilke GI, A/F ratio & atmospheric conditions will not affect ignition timing W/CDI.

Although I haven't done extensive testing, I did run my HC FA-180 CDI on O'Donnell Speed Blend 30% nitro fuel W/8% lube W/O obvious ill affects.

flyingagin

Sure would like to know if the same thing applies t 2 stroke SR 150

Ken

spaceworm

[QUOTE=SrTelemaster150;11977010]I am supposed to be getting 9 gallons of pure methanol in the spring. I am going to mix 10% Klotz Technoplate W/O nitro to do comparisons....
/QUOTE]
I am looking for methanol here in CT, paid $5.00 per gallon in my jug at a speed shop in VA several years ago.
I am looking forward to your tests.
Sincerely, Richard

Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180

spaceworm

Will anyone be selling plain methanol at the WRAM show this month? Who is going?

Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Gas is inherently oily. For those who don't believe it; pour some gas in a shallow pan & let it evaporate. Now rub your finger in the bottom of the pan. That shiny stuff now on your finger is oil.

The spark timing won't change but get it too lean for the atmospheric conditions & it will detonate.

CR

FNQFLYER

Don't know about Saitos but from the observed first hand experience of others, reduction of oil content below that recommended by the manufacturer generally cause pain in the hip pocket nerve (resulting in the expenditure of hard earned cash). I've seen YS's in particular suffer terminal failure with a 5% reduction in oil content. The leaner you run an engine (getting more performance) the more you need the oil for lubrication and to a degree cooling. The only thing I mess with (seriously) in nitro content and apart from tests to destruction I have never had a catastrophic engine failure of any of my engines.

DBD1

I see that Horizon Hobby apparently does not carry all of the currently produced Saito engines, in particular the FA-90TS. I see that Hobby Horse in Madison Wisconsin has them on their website. Saito Seisakusho http://www.saito-mfg.com/english/itemlist1.html seems to show it as a current engine. Can anyone shed any light on this? Has anyone done any business with Hobby Horse? Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction for one.

Rudolph Hart

Charley we don't have armadillo races here because we don't have them,if we did i'd be in it.i think the disease can be passed to humans because at least 20% of the pilots i watch can't hit the strip let alone land on it

Rudolph Hart

Trev you have run high nitro and know well how much fuel gets sucked through the engine.Even at 10% you can pull a backplate off and see a lot of oil in there.It's even more obvious with the radials where you have a similar size crankcase and many cylinders pumping oil to the same place.With the cdi system some people here like i think it takes away some of the raw offbeat nature of tuning a glow fourstroke engine,especially the bigger saito
singles.Somebody above raised cooling issues with the gas saito's and i take good care to duct the incoming air around the cooling fins and out a well designed exit hole that sucks real good as they say here in aus.With our methanol cooled saito's if you tune them right i sometimes think you could just let the carby suck air through the hole you bored in the cowl to set the low speed needle.

ps i see our best v8 super car driver jamie whincup got bitten while handling a python at some zoo here...makes handpropping an fa220 seem tame