Rudolph Hart

Could oiled up coils in plugs get thumped around when you first flick the prop?

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

In all the years of running glow engines I've not run across this symptom before. It would start, run for a couple of seconds & quit, even though the glow battery was still attached. I've had many engines quit when the glow driver is removed but never this symptom before that I recall.

I store my models upright & the engine in this model is mounted at 9 o'clock, so no wet plug probs. I flew the model with the same plug all last season, guess it was past its time.

I've run Fox Miracle plugs in my Saitos pretty much from my first. Never had any probs with them. I only have one new one left. I see Tower is still carrying them. Is Fox still making them or should I stock up while I can?

CR

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Is this the first time you fired it up since last year? You may have a slug of congealed fuel, a bit of contamination, (the reason I usually install filters before the carb) or a deteriorated line or O-ring. Any of those may allow enough fuel through for a few seconds run, but not enough flow to feed demands.

Remove the line from the carb inlet and exhaust pressure fitting and blow on the vent line. You should see a good stream of fuel. Plug the fuel line while still blowing and see if fuel leaks from any other point.

NOTE: Remember to remove your finger from the fuel line BEFORE letting releasing the pressure on the vent. I've forgotten and ended up with a mouthful of fuel. Phoowee!

If you don't see anything odd reinstall the carb line, open the throttle and blow on the vent again. You should also get a steady stream of fuel into the intake. If not it may be plugged. If so and you still cannot maintain engine running check the O-ring on the HS needle.

One other place to look would be the O-ring on the intake tube where it enters the head. If out of place or cracked your fuel draw will be compromised.

Have you tried it with that new plug?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Cougar, I experienced exactly what you suggested when I fired up, or more accurately tried to fire up the .50 shown above. No fuel would flow but I could feel the carb sucking on my finger tip. Finally I pinched off the pressure line and put considerable pressure on the tank with my palm. A thick liquid finally started to flow out through velocity stack. Then raw fuel. Now it fired right up. I don't remember what fuel I had run in it last. From now on when storing an engine for a while I'll shoot some NAPA Fogging oil through the fuel inlet. I'm still learning. When I got it running I noticed that at full throttle the Taipan 4c plug I had in it was leaking around the post. I replaced it with an Enya a3, I'll need the a3 for the 100 twin so I'll replace the Enya with a Fox Miracle.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

CR, you may find this interesting, I have this older .40 with the removable head, it's way soft on power compared to the .45MKII. Note pin across the intake port to hold the valve seat insert. It is ringless.

FNQFLYER

With our YS's (53 and 63) if we leave them for more than a few weeks without running we find that it is very hard to start same. The proceedure is to remove the needle valve and turn the motor over on the starter until fresh fuel flows. I usually do this on the bench with long term storage engines as well. On storage attitudes. Once again long term, if stored nose down eventually all the lubricant will run towards the front of the engine. (Gravity). I always store my engines in their boxes or if in a/frames in normal landing attitude.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Guys,

Took the Dancer (SAito .80) to the field this morning, around 10:00 AM. The engine started and ran like a Saito ought to. Had about 5 minutes flying the pattern with some missed approaches to get it right, Had some gusty cross winds. Did one T&G, then some crosswind flybys; my flying sucked - first time in 6 mos. Lined up to land in gusty crosswinds, model settling just fine when the gusts quit! She plopped on the runway, broke the prop and I had to land her dead stick. Of course I didn't bring a spare prop.

What about plugs, OS F ? Wat'cha using?

CR

acdii

I picked up some merlin plugs, same type as Fox and OS F. They have a glass insulator so less likely to leak. Havent tried one yet since I just got them at Toledo, but at $4 each worth a shot.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the pics. Didn't know about that one.

CR

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...-45%20(1).html

This is Peter Chinn's test of the .45 version.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

CR, I flat out lied to you, mine is a .45, my how the mind doesn't work some times.

slamn sammy

[QUOTE=FNQFLYER;12025245]With our YS's (53 and 63) if we leave them for more than a few weeks without running we find that it is very hard to start same. The proceedure is to remove the needle valve and turn the motor over on the starter until fresh fuel flows. I usually do this on the bench with long term storage engines as well. On storage attitudes. Once again long term, if stored nose down eventually all the lubricant will run towards the front of the engine. (Gravity). I always store my engines in their boxes or if in a/frames in normal landing attitude.[/Q Whats up? I was just wondering what kind of fuel your using? l hah a YS 120 that l ran Cool Power 15% in and l had it in a 1/4 scale, 60in Pitts and having a Satio and a O.S.120 and just did mot like the way the YS performed. l traded the Pitts off and later l was out flying and the guy that had the Pitts came out and was burning up the sky with it! l asked him what he did to increase the performance of the plane? He told me that "He did not like the performance too, and after talking to a pattern flyer that had a YS he was told to go to YS fuel" and he bought some YS fuel and it made the little motor come to life! Seem'ed that there made to only run on there own fuel? he would not retrade! LOL BUT! After it sat, l had tuning and running problems with it too. Just my 2 cents. Hay there Oldfart, How the weather down there? Cool and damp here. Not getting munch airplane work dun!

spaceworm

[QUOTE=slamn sammy;12025578]YS say to use 20 % oil, as I am sure you already know. Cool Power is 18% synthetic? Could that possibly make any difference in how they run? Thanks.
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito FA-56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
YS F-120

Rudolph Hart

Hi sammy i thought you guys are just coming up to summer? our's is just finishing.Trev do you fly your saito engines at the same attitude as when they are stored,i think it's a load of old cobblers

The enya a3? seems to help asp160 twins idle better,they have really cheap carbies on them (but the rest is made like a russian vice) the end of the main needle looks like the top of a witches hat.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Hay Sammy,

That was Cool Power "YS 20-20" fuel. 20% synthetic oil - 20% nitro. Looks like Morgan Fuels call it "Pro Pattern 20%" now. I think Powermaster used to make a similar fuel here in TX. Lots of the San Antonio guys used to run their Saitos on it too.

CR

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

5 lashes with a wet noodle for you!

CR

slamn sammy

LOL There Oldfart. I was thinking that too? Keeps raining or Like know it's 62* and funny, When it's 18-40* out and we got a 70* day would be running around in short sleves. Now! Give us a 100* day and it would drop to 70* we (OR I) would brake out the long johns! LOL The wife and l fight over the thermostat all year round! The only way l can get some relieve is to go into the reading room (I know all guy's have them) LOL........ P.S. Is it true that your water go's to the right there? Here, when l go out behind my shop, i'm (AMBIDEXTROUS) LOL Ya'll have turned me into a Saito man.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart, I generally fly my models level or nose up. (O/T). Others take off and land horizontal (well mostly) with odd variations in attitude while the engine is rotating. To those querying the fuel I use in my YS's it is 30% good nitro (as little water in it as possible) 20 to 22% heli cool power oil (lower viscosity) and the rest methanol. The reason why I remove the needle valve to clear the fuel after a time away from using it is because I find (as do others) that there can be a build up of oil in the fuel line and while I can force this through the engine I find is easier and quicker to do the needle valve removal thing. On plug I use a dedicated YS plug in the YS's dedicated Saito plugs in my Saitos with OS F's as back ups. I a m intrigued with the use of Enya 3's. They are another favourite of mine, must look into but I ask do they have enough to position the glo correctly in the combustion chamber.

FNQFLYER

Sammy, it has been my experience that the YS's I have do not like nitro levels less than 25% if you want them to perform. We run ours with as much as 45 - 50% nitro depending on the competition on the day. Likewise they do not like less that 20% synthetic oil, (castor is the kiss of death). Engines operating at max performance with less usually have disastrous engine failure usually in the valve train.

slamn sammy

l know this thing would not pull a sick.......... Well l didn't like the way it ran! And yes could be the 15% fuel? This fuel this guy l traded with, it said (YS) Brand on it. It was also about $10-$16 more than the Cool Power l was using, and l was paying around $27.00. Now l run 15% Power Master and l love it. Makes my Saito bite the **** out of me! LOL....... And l get it, the more nitro the more the $$$$!

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I had a Saito 65 on a 4*40 a few years ago. That engine broke a piston. Bought another 65 off ebay. Had a bent push rod tube, replaced it. Mounted it inverted on the 4*40 with APC 13x6. It had been acting like it was rich at idle so I have been slowly turning the idle needle in. Idle getting smoother and lower rpm. I think this was a low time engine. Any how, starts right now, smooth idle, instant response and yanks the 4* with authority. 4* is a little nose heavy, will start moving servo/s. Love those 65's.

Any body run the 62 and 65 back to back? Any comments? I would like to try one. I have the 82 and it is a beast on a profile 3D plane.
MikeB

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mike, if I could offer up a suggestion, peak the engine to max rpm and leave it there temporarily, then set the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time. Partially open the throttle at every other change, on one of the changes the engine will bog slightly, back out 1/8th turn and test the transition and idle. Then reset HS to your favorite setting.
The .62 is within 100 rpm of the .65 and is a real sweetheart.

Rudolph Hart

It's good advice mike.

Sammy you and me must be cousins cause i'm amby dextious too,depends on the state i'm in.Yur spellin iz gettin heeps betterer.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Hobbsy, I did tune it that way when I installed the engine. I say it may be a low time engine because of the need to lean out the bottom end. Your suggested method has worked great on all my Saitos 2-45's, 2-65's, and an 82. Thanks for the input! I don't tend to be a needle twister. Set it and forget seems to work well on the broken in Saito.
I think the 62 would be the perfect match for the 4*40. Maybe I should buy one for the pile.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

A little knowledge and a developed, "touch" and engines purr like a kitten, my .62 is from the first batch produced, I had two for a Hangar9 Dual ACE but lost one at Andrews AFB in a huge gust of wind. Many people searched and it was never found. It was on an RCM 40 trainer just to put some fly time on it. I still haven't finished the Dual Ace. Maybe I can run down another .50. As you can see I almost always take pictures while running the 50 minute break in, and usually of the tach readings too, if the sun is just right. In between gardening tasks today I'm going to run the .50 with a TurboHeader. Gotta till the neighbor lady's garden too. That battery is my recently retired 7 year old Sportster 200 amp battery, I replaced it with 310 amp glass mat technology battery, it always starts on the first compression stroke, isn't fuel injection wunnerful?