mike early

How many different muffler adapter nuts does Saito make?
12mm to 10mm, I am aware of. Any others?

mike early

Need suggestions for a twin Saito 72 plane. I've been looking...

AeroFinn

Congrats Dan, sounds very convenient!

I have a flying field of my own, too. The landing strip is about 500 feet from my house. Very nice.

-Artto

AeroFinn

Dan and Adrian,

Thanks for your hints. I set the gap to 0,35mm and run the engine at various timing settings & different LS settings today. I first tried 36 degrees BTDC followd by about 33, 30, and 28 degreees. The max rpm seemed to be at 33 degrees, about 9500.

The fuel was the same 10% Aerosave and 5% nitro. The engine seemed to idle a bit better at all timing settings (except for the 36 degrees BTDC which caused the max rpm wander) than before. However, the engine is still unreliable at idle no matter what I do with the timing and LS needle.

This is a bit strange? It's like the engine idles ok at 1500-1600 rpm but misses a beat every now and then which at some point cause the engine cease running? I doesn't help much to increase the idle rpm to, say, 1700+ rpm. The same thing, the engine misses a beat or two and then it stops?

Next I will run my Laser 300v on the same fuel / jug to eliminate the any potential issues with the fuel quality. If the Laser runs ok with the fuel then I'm a bit lost on what to try next..

-Artto

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

Ok here is an update i ran the engine without the cowl it ran on idle very nice and transitioned to full throttle cleanly. The engine was still hot to the touch but not as bad as before. The only thing i noticed after killing the engine i saw some dark residue in the fuel tubing leading into my muffler. It was not a solid stream just a few drops i disconnected the line and let it drip out it was brownish black in color maybe 3 to 4 drops total.

the pope

The blackish oil can be a indication of a lean engine . Aim for a honeyish color . The tubing to the muffler willl turn dark over time as like I said that muffler is hot . Like force said try riching it up a bit . If your engine is running cooler and better without the cowl I think yo really need to open up the front of the cowl a bit . Cheers

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

That is quite normal and is suet from a rich mixture, you see that more in Diesels.

SrTelemaster150

You might find the information you are looking for HERE.

FNQFLYER

Just a thought on the hot engine problem, while you are busy opening up the inlet give a thought to where all the hot air in the cowl is going to. A good formula to work to is have the exit for the exhaust / hot air twice the inlet in size.

the pope

Good point , I didnt mention that as 1st look I thought there was enough but yeh he could go rearward a bit more and if needed you could add a ramp inside to direct that hot air outa there . Louvres in front of the hole creates negative pressure dragging the air out . I wouldnt go that far just yet . The giant scale guys on that never to be mentioned site do it all the time and thats the place I would be searching for info . Cheers the pope

AeroFinn

I have measured temperatures more than 115 deg celsius on my Saito FA-125a. My Lasers run at about 125 degrees celsius, occationally even more. Gas engines run easily at 150 degrees celsius. I think Pe Reivers once said the safe max with aerotowing is somewhere 160 degrees celsius. We very often tend to run glow engines on rich setting to keep temps down. While you can do it I don't see the point doing it. I would be more concerned about the oil quality and select modern synthetic oil oil that tolerates high temperatures, i.e Klotz super techniplate, Aerosave, etc.

Make sure that you have good cooling through the fins of the engine. This can be done by having a proper baffling arrangement in your cowling. Make sure to create a good vacuum, ie. ensure the air flows through the cowling. Make sure the area the air exits from the cowling is at least 1,5 X the area the air enters in the cowling. There are lot's of threads on the topic. See also:

see also
COWLS and COOLING and BAFFLES:

http://laserengines.co.uk/Instructions.htm

Rudolph Hart

The info above is so right.

Was working on the saito 82 today in the deccy and had a footwear failure,the toestrap pulled straight out of my right thong(flip flops,jandals in kiwi,don't know what you call them where you are)on the workbench right in front was a small bottle of zap a gap so i got my best saito tuning screwdriver out and tucked the front thong strap back in then zapped it.I forgot that gap filler takes longer to dry and stuck my sock clad foot back in.The underside of my toe got hot so i pulled my foot back out but the sock was glued there.I'll put a new scalpel blade in and see if i can shave the expensive woollen blue steel work sock off the sole of the thong.Otherwise i can just cut the topstraps of the thongs altogether and glue both soles to the shoes,closest thing you can get to ugg boots on the cheap do reckon popey?

ps dave do you need to match prop figures with a saito 56? and your os cough cough cough

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes sir Pete, that would be nice, I used to have those number but can't find them

mike early

Actually, the only size might be 10mm to 9mm for the adapter.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Do you have another Saito 80 on that shopping list too?

acdii

I flew my 1/5th Cub with the Saito 100 GK yesterday, and think I under propped it as it would do 10K at WOT. I think that Cub is very overpowered now as it left the ground in 10 feet and went vertical at half throttle! So with that said, what is the largest prop I can put on the 100? I had a 14x8 on it and it wobbled when running, and it is balanced, so there must be a bad blade on it, I only had a 14X6, and that runs true so thats what I flew on it, the only others I have are APC 16x8, and a 16x4W.

flyingagin

OF, at least you didn't glue your foot in. Now that would have been hilarious!

Ken

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

I use a 15x6 APC on the 100 in my WM Chippie. All the speed and thrust I could ever want. (maybe should have said "need")

SrTelemaster150

I'm thinking 15x8 on an FA-115 for my WM 1/5 scale J-3. Throottle back for scale performance, throttle up for crazy vertical.

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

I did some searching but i can't find the recommended operating temperature for the Saito 72. Does anyone know what the normal to maximum temps are?

mike early

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...gine-temp.html

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Too many factors involved to choose a normal temp, ambient temp, nitro%, lube %, prop load, even which glow plug is used all can and do alter the operating temperature. You won't find any useful recommended temperature, one guys normal is another guys too hot or too cold. You're way over thinking this.

FNQFLYER

I agree with Hobbsy you are way over thinking the temp thing. I operate at the extremes with my Saitos in competition and I have never had to bother about cylinder temperatures. I run 20% Coolpower or Klotz and up to 50% nitro. I set the engine up so I see a trail of smoke from the exhaust at max rpm and to date have never had an engine failure in 20 years of operating these engines. Follow the factory specs and you should not go wrong.

mike early

I tune a little more lean than most, maybe. I tune it so at WOT, there is no visible smoke. Zero problems.

mike early

blw, hobbsy, et. al, briefly, let's discuss Saito muffler adapter nuts: which ones exist?

I only use straight pipe exhausts. My .56 uses the adapter. I'd like to use the small straight pipe on other engines as well...it makes for a cleaner look. Perhaps better performance as well. Is there a 12x10 muffler adapter nut?