Welcome to Club SAITO !
05-24-2015, 01:51 AM
Mike,it demeans the rest of us by describing us as et al,except popey
i like that shot of the mustang and saito with short pipe if you have a vid lying around please share i'd like to hear it.
Dave i've never owned a 56 but trev might be able to help.
i like that shot of the mustang and saito with short pipe if you have a vid lying around please share i'd like to hear it.Dave i've never owned a 56 but trev might be able to help.
05-24-2015, 07:53 AM
Senior Member
05-24-2015, 03:01 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gee old fart Mike was just being "inclusive" with his et al. Saitos without mufflers sound great to my ears, and the short pipe on the 6 is one of the better sounding ones. Re Mikes search for adaptor nuts, if I cannot source OEM then I go to Christian Traders here in OZ they generally come to the party. Alternately go to the source, I have and do when all else fails but you can expect a wait on delivery.
05-24-2015, 03:42 PM
Senior Member
Re: adapter nuts. I guess I can just keep using the 12mm straight pipes on my 72's, 82, and 91. They're fine. I can always cut them if I find them too long...
05-24-2015, 04:11 PM
Suincerely, et. al.
05-25-2015, 06:20 AM
Hay Mike, l have a World Models Mustang with a Saito .80 on it, had a O.S. .72 and the .72 was perfect for the little stang. BUT! l can't leave anything alone! I installed the 80 on it and (TO ME) it just don't seem the same? l did not ck, the wight of the two. The CG seems the same, BUT! The stang started nosing over, braking props, bending gear? lt may be just me?? ln the air CG Ck, is the same. lt flys the same, even tryed to do some dead sticks! it just don't like the 80??? Going to try to deal with it. Will see? The Mustang is the .40 size. l mixed some flaperarons it and found that, with down flaps it seems to pitch over? Some of my 3D plane's do that and when l have the airbrake is up for doing flying 3Ds (to stop wing rock) it over comes the pitch over, so l went up insted of down and the pitchover stoped. l found that the pitch over is becouse the stab is to small to overcome the extea lift. Some of my plane with flap or flaperones pitch up, down, l got a Yellow Aircraft T-6 (102 Ws) Don't do eather, but will come in like a Sig Kadet. BUT! The World Modles .40 Mustang it perfect for the .72 and it comes with retacts installed. keep Flying =-)
Whats Up There OldFart?
Whats Up There OldFart?
Last edited by slamn sammy; 05-27-2015 at 04:40 AM.
05-25-2015, 08:46 AM
The visible smoke trail is more of an OS method of tuning a 4 stroke. Use a good tach like the TNC. When finished, fly the model to see if it leans out some in the air. Just my .02 cents.
05-25-2015, 02:14 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
blw I always use a tacho when tuning any engine. The only way to get reliable results that is of course assuming that the tacho is operating correctly. So the question for the post is "how do you check the tachos we use on our models" You know like the Thunder Tiger and Prolux thingies. the prize on offer is a bottle of QLD red which of course you have to collect personally.
05-26-2015, 04:38 AM
Popey i hope you win the prize and have to skull trev's rocket fuel.Yes we need your exact address so it can be marked on a facebook map.As robyn williams once said 'one day ronald reagan is going to wake up and hit the red button instead of the old alarm clock bell and it'll be like'..now the russians have your address
Sammy i enjoyed reading your post,have a cmpro midget mustang that does what you describe.
Sammy i enjoyed reading your post,have a cmpro midget mustang that does what you describe.
05-26-2015, 05:35 AM
It's always a possibility, the one I have is a good engine.
While I'm thinking about it what is the performance difference between the 300 twin with a single carb and the 300 with the dual carbs? I was thinking a single would be easier to adjust but I figured there was a trade off. I have a scratch built project that the prototype was powered with a 270 twin so I was thinking a 300 would be a good choice unless I decide to go over to the dark side and try a gasoline engine.
While I'm thinking about it what is the performance difference between the 300 twin with a single carb and the 300 with the dual carbs? I was thinking a single would be easier to adjust but I figured there was a trade off. I have a scratch built project that the prototype was powered with a 270 twin so I was thinking a 300 would be a good choice unless I decide to go over to the dark side and try a gasoline engine.
Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 05-26-2015 at 05:39 AM.
05-26-2015, 06:02 AM
Slamn Sammy, I have my .80 sitting inverted in a SIG 1/5th scale Cub that I haven't maiden yet. I had a T-nut fail for a strut and they are working struts not just for show so it is a have to situation on the repair. I am fixing that problem but looking into rebuilding them out of streamline tubing. The .80 required me building a box firewall to allow the engine to slide back 3/4:" so the cowling would fit. (I hate elongated cowlings if it can be avoided.) I got the idea from a DR1 design I saw once. I used a Saito 90 degree adapter from an inline twin to route the muffler out the bottom. I am considering buying a laser thermometer from Lowe's they have the General tools Heat Seeker 8.1 on sale for $20. I still need to get a good tach any suggestions?
Mike
Mike
05-26-2015, 09:39 AM
Slamn Sammy, I have my .80 sitting inverted in a SIG 1/5th scale Cub that I haven't maiden yet. I had a T-nut fail for a strut and they are working struts not just for show so it is a have to situation on the repair. I am fixing that problem but looking into rebuilding them out of streamline tubing. The .80 required me building a box firewall to allow the engine to slide back 3/4:" so the cowling would fit. (I hate elongated cowlings if it can be avoided.) I got the idea from a DR1 design I saw once. I used a Saito 90 degree adapter from an inline twin to route the muffler out the bottom. I am considering buying a laser thermometer from Lowe's they have the General tools Heat Seeker 8.1 on sale for $20. I still need to get a good tach any suggestions?
Mike
Mike
I have been there, dun that. After 40yr's of experimenting and from being from the (SOUTH) LOL........ 
(Sorry OldFart, you may not get it. It's a south USA thing) LOL....... (Building with belling wire and bubble gum) l have a BIG!! Bud Nolson Mr, Mulligan, with a 112"Ws and a G62 engine, that l did not build. The plane is almost 40Yr's it's self, but still fly's ok (FOR A BRICK) The struts where made from hard wood and drilled with 440 wire and it keep'ed coming out and pulling the end rib out of the wing. l got tired of fixing it. So l made some out of the steam-line tubbing and it works fine. BUT! Take some soft balsa and push as munch as you can down both end's as for as you can. l took some flat aluminum and made two V's for the bottom attachments and four for the top. Then l took my Dremel tool and clean'ed out how ever for down the attachments wen't into it then l installed the attachments, then l pushed some more balsa into it, filling the gap and then used thin CA and let it dry. (The balsa will make it where it will not bend as EZ) After it all dried l drilled a small hole and installed a small bolt and nut. Also be sure to install the center supports. This will make it more scale and stronger. Hope this puts a bug in your head and helps. (AND THAT IS HOW I SPENT MY SUMMER VACATION) LOL...... Signed Slamn Sammy
05-26-2015, 10:29 AM
You left out electrical tape! Baling wire, bubble gum electrical tape all the necessities for repairs! I once drove a 1964 International pickup for a month with electrical tape patching the upper radiator hose. Once I got the to the IH dealer it only took Leon (the evening parts guy) 3 trips to the back to find the correct molded hose.
My Cub is outfitted with Bright Yellow Ultracote/Oracote covering and sports these insignia and tail number. Still haven't decided if I want the engine moldings on the cheeks.
I'm working on a Top Flite 182Q now and it will look like this.
My Cub is outfitted with Bright Yellow Ultracote/Oracote covering and sports these insignia and tail number. Still haven't decided if I want the engine moldings on the cheeks.
I'm working on a Top Flite 182Q now and it will look like this.
05-26-2015, 10:46 AM
You left out electrical tape! Baling wire, bubble gum electrical tape all the necessities for repairs! I once drove a 1964 International pickup for a month with electrical tape patching the upper radiator hose. Once I got the to the IH dealer it only took Leon (the evening parts guy) 3 trips to the back to find the correct molded hose.
My Cub is outfitted with Bright Yellow Ultracote/Oracote covering and sports these insignia and tail number. Still haven't decided if I want the engine moldings on the cheeks.
I'm working on a Top Flite 182Q now and it will look like this.
My Cub is outfitted with Bright Yellow Ultracote/Oracote covering and sports these insignia and tail number. Still haven't decided if I want the engine moldings on the cheeks.
I'm working on a Top Flite 182Q now and it will look like this.
l have no luck with electrical tape. Keeps melting!! 
Now masking tape is where it's at. Mike, your braking my hart with that 182. 
Thats a nice plane! I'd like to have a BIG 152. Thats what l trained on. That and a 172. How big is the 182 and what engine? Also put the cheeks on the Cub, you'll be glad you did. Scale them out. It will pay off at the field in praising!
Last edited by slamn sammy; 05-26-2015 at 10:49 AM.
05-26-2015, 10:50 AM
Dan and Adrian,
Thanks for your hints. I set the gap to 0,35mm and run the engine at various timing settings & different LS settings today. I first tried 36 degrees BTDC followd by about 33, 30, and 28 degreees. The max rpm seemed to be at 33 degrees, about 9500.
The fuel was the same 10% Aerosave and 5% nitro. The engine seemed to idle a bit better at all timing settings (except for the 36 degrees BTDC which caused the max rpm wander) than before. However, the engine is still unreliable at idle no matter what I do with the timing and LS needle.
This is a bit strange? It's like the engine idles ok at 1500-1600 rpm but misses a beat every now and then which at some point cause the engine cease running? I doesn't help much to increase the idle rpm to, say, 1700+ rpm. The same thing, the engine misses a beat or two and then it stops?
Next I will run my Laser 300v on the same fuel / jug to eliminate the any potential issues with the fuel quality. If the Laser runs ok with the fuel then I'm a bit lost on what to try next..
-Artto
Thanks for your hints. I set the gap to 0,35mm and run the engine at various timing settings & different LS settings today. I first tried 36 degrees BTDC followd by about 33, 30, and 28 degreees. The max rpm seemed to be at 33 degrees, about 9500.
The fuel was the same 10% Aerosave and 5% nitro. The engine seemed to idle a bit better at all timing settings (except for the 36 degrees BTDC which caused the max rpm wander) than before. However, the engine is still unreliable at idle no matter what I do with the timing and LS needle.
This is a bit strange? It's like the engine idles ok at 1500-1600 rpm but misses a beat every now and then which at some point cause the engine cease running? I doesn't help much to increase the idle rpm to, say, 1700+ rpm. The same thing, the engine misses a beat or two and then it stops?
Next I will run my Laser 300v on the same fuel / jug to eliminate the any potential issues with the fuel quality. If the Laser runs ok with the fuel then I'm a bit lost on what to try next..
-Artto
I flew my Yak 54 / Laser 300v-twin on Sunday. The fuel was exactly the same jug I had run my FA-125a CDI, i.e. 10% Aerosave / 5% nitro. The Laser idled happily my 2-3 minutes test at about 1550-1600 rpm without onboard glow and made a steady max power. While this test is not scientifically conclusive it tells us the fuel should be ok. I'm still confused why I can't get my Saito run properly.
Here is a link to a video on the Laser 300v idleing without onboard glow:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEpkXlWiMK4
and my FA-125a CDI idleing with the same fuel jug:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhV9daOPEBs
Ok. I may call my 86 year old mother to ask what to do next as I do not know how to proceed to get my Saito run properly..
05-26-2015, 11:27 AM
Slamn Sammy its 1/5th scale with a 81" wing span and a 64 1/2" fuselage. center rear of the wing has been modified to look more scale and the luggage door on the left hides a compartment for the RX and lighting system switches, remote glow plug connection, and the battery compartment for the lights. It will have a TF cockpit kit and dummy luggage will hide the battery/switch compartment. Landing lights are on their own servo coupled to the flaps to turn them on/off. The nose wheel has a Robart strut made for the kit. The airplane is powered by a Super Tigre .75 side mounted engine with TF discontinued Super Tigre manifold and the original discontinued cowling muffler. I also have two TF plastic spinners (1 red and 1 white) I can use but have decided to go with a Tru-Turn aluminum spinner instead. The markings are vinyl decals made by Decal-it. The pants won't be used since the CAP airplane doesn't use them (Reminds me of police cars with their steel rims and minimal size hubcaps). Two of my sons were cadet officers in CAP and one went on to join as a senior member. He requested CAP livery on this one. He wants them displayed to the cadets to see so I agreed.
Mike
Am I going a little nuts on mods? yes but I'm not the first on this site by a long shot.
Mike
Am I going a little nuts on mods? yes but I'm not the first on this site by a long shot.
05-26-2015, 02:52 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pope, you are right BUT you didn't read the post, it says you have to collect it. That is you have to come here to SE QLD to take possession. Old Fart our red is not rocket fuel (it is better that that Margaret River stuff) because we don't add nitro to it.
05-26-2015, 02:56 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Flying yesterday, Saito 62 with 30% nitro and a 13x6 Bolly carbon prop, in an 85% Bomber went almost out of sight in the climb (30 second engine run). Should do as a back up model for next weeks state competition. Good when you get a good day and things go according to plan. My ASP 32 diesel did 7 minutes on 8 mls of fuel for Texaco and given the requirement for the rounds is 10 minutes of flight I am very happy, model was almost OOS at the end of the engine run.