blw

My Feedback: (3)

You would have been at Sebring along with my dad then. He went up until a little later than you. Also to the Indy 500. He was there for the big starting lap wreck. Tire came up into the stands about 5 seats away from where he was sitting.

Jim- I use an electric starter, but I always just bump the engine with it after being sure it isn't hydrolocked. A little bump usually starts most engines anyway.

FNQFLYER

Guys, if you want some fun try flying old spark ignition engines (O&R, OK, etc) in the rain. Gives some interesting "fun" while it lasts.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, getting married did slow down some of my 'fun' stuff. Having kids finished of that particular aspect of my life. We ran a '69 L stock automatic Pony to within 1 run of winning the winter nats in '71 but blew the tranny at the end of our winning run. Oh the games folks used to play with the 'stock' designation...

Rudolph Hart

Trev you listen up pardmake some time and share or as i live just round the corner from you i'll do a nigel (skateboarding atilla the hun hat wearing hoon on the paul hogan show)and start hopping the 3000 odd kays to your place buddy...you better pray you've done some sharing by then

acdii

Seeing an 80 YO man on a skate board will be a hoot!

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

SHHHhhhhhh! Don't tell the natives.


So I ran the 150S today on the 150GK carbureator. The results were mixed.

I was treating it as a new engine that needed to have the rings seated on the basis that it was still not broken in because I don't know. You know the drill, fill the tank, start the engine and go to full throttle. Then needle it until the tach begins to loose RPM and give it 30 seconds there and then richen it a lot and give it 30 seconds to cool. Cycle through that until the tank is dry So I fogged the neighborhood for mosquitoes when I went rich with the mixture. The best I was able to get on a 18x6 Master Airscrew was 7200, but it was steady. Right up until the tank ran dry when it blew the prop, prop washer, and prop nut off the front of the engine after 7 minutes on a 16 oz tank, which is yet another problem. Still looking for that washer.

Any ideas why that happened? Might be somewhat disconcerting if it occurs in the air. This is a photo of the one bolt that makes me wonder what I bought. It shows just above the preassure line.



Attached is

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

~It went lean when the last of the fuel entered mixed with bubbles. The low speed needle is still very rich.
That screw just has some paint missing.

I don't like that way of breaking in, all you do is waste a whole bunch of fuel.
I start it at 1/4 to 1/3rd throttle, quickly set the throttle at 4,000 rpm for 10 minutes
5,000 rpm for 10 minutes, 6,000 rpm for 10 minutes
7,000 rpm for 10 minutes, I never go to full throttle until this 10 minute period is up. I then peak it at full throttle and set the LS needle as required
.

SrTelemaster150

What's up with the username change Hobbsy?

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

Different strokes sir. My way heats up the jug, ring, and piston and then cools it with fuel. Repeated cycles of that is part of what getting the engine broken in does. Or so I have been told and experienced before. Your way works, but it does not cycle the temperature.

So you think the LS is too rich. Fair enough, I will look at then the next time I get a chance to run it which will happen after I replace the prop washer. That sucker seems to be lost and gone forever.

As for it pulling bubbles and air at the end that is probably a given but NONE of my other Saitos blow the prop off the front when that happens, even when it happens at WOT. I have never had that happen when under load. All other times were just after the start. What a wake up call!

Rudolph Hart

That's the problem for me here jim,bloody natives.Popey has already said if i want to cross his state he'll see me off at the border.I'm expecting him to ambush me and i have a secret weapon,it's a plain white tee shirt with all the free saito stickers you get stuck on the front side of it so when he jumps out of the bushes in front of me wearing a chainmail superman outfit while throwing spears and boomerangs i'll have had time to unhook the blackpowder artillery piece i've been towing.Takes a handfull of oo buckshot and blackens superman suits at close range.Now back to normal programming?

ps trev i worked out that even without towing the artillery piece behind the skateboard it would still take me four and a half months to get there hoping not to get flattened by sleeping roadtrain drivers.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Jim, to my mind there is nothing in the construction of a Saito that can benefit from heat cycling, that's for engines with steel cylinders. The Saito instructions are vague to non existent so I came up with my own. It's difficult to see but this is about where your LS needle will end up. The 1.50 now wears C&H Ignition with Dan's generosity and help.

Dan, I changed the name just for fun.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

This is one such back kick result, lost all the nuts too.

spaceworm

Hi Dave. Lost your nuts even with the locking prop nut? Or are the ones shown not the ones you lost?

Vbr to you and yours.

Sincerely, Richard

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

Ah..er..hmm.. It looks to me like the second nut is on backwards in your photo. I always thought the cone went into the primary and the friction between those surfaces is part of what made it work. Or am I all wet?

As for the heat cycling, you may be right as Saitos are AAC rather than ABC like some of my OS 2 strokes. I don't know and just do what has always worked for me in the past.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I see in the pic your washer is missing. I too lost the first few sets of locking nuts and even the two-piece Higleys setup on my first Saito. Was a sign the HS needle was set too lean.

acdii

Hey my 100 Ran great today! Flew my Cub today, with the SIG fuel too, and figured out that it needs to warm up a few minutes at 1/4 throttle before it runs smooth all the way to WOT, don't have to do that with Wildcat. I flew at just under half throttle and got 12 minutes with a 1/4 tank left, and didn't want to risk a dead stick with it, so came in when the timer said so and all is good. I had redone the tank on it and figured the reason it quit was just the fact that I had a nose down bank that robbed the pickup of fuel.

There was a steady wind out of the west today and dint want to risk a dead stick at the wrong side of the runway, so landing when I did was good. HOWEVER, I had thought I solved my dead stick issue with my Somethin Extra, the one with an OS 70 on it, I replaced the tank with a Sullivan Flex tank, all new lines, and a filler valve so I can tie the fuel lines down. No leaks and everything looks and works good. Flew it about 12 minutes, doing all sorts of aerobatics, practiced harrier landings with it, and did a noce one, taxied over, checked fuel levels and was about 5/8's full, so took off again, flew another 2 minutes, and sure as S**T quit when at the top of a loop. I had done about 4 Cuban 8's prior to that, and this time though, it was too far downwind, and my fear of not making the runway came true. It went behind some trees as I had lost all aileron control, and could not bank it or anything, and when I recovered it, I thought, oh, nice landing, it was sitting on its gear all in one piece, then I noticed half the prop was gone and the front was full of dirt, then saw the divit 3 feet away and the other half of the prop. I looked back at the plane ans saw the left wing was at an angle and realized it hit nose first, causing the wings to flap forward, bending the wing tube. Wont take but an hour to repair it, but the wing tube is bent so instead of risking a weakened tube by straightening it, I will just replace it.


So what the hell is causing it to die at 1/2 tank inverted? Is it due to the spray bar being a 1 1/4" ( 31 mm for you down under folks) above the tank centerline? If so, why only when inverted? On the ground it runs great at 1/4 tank, however, it is difficult to invert the plane on the ground to simulate a loop.


With the issue I am having, that and even at full throttle I cant maintain a knife edge, the nose just drops, wont keep the angle for more than a second, I am considering replacing the OS with a smaller Saito, and pulling the counterweight in the tail. Does anyone know what the FG-11 equivalent in glow is? Giving some thought to removing it from the T-Clips and putting it in the SE instead. I am having a blast flying the SE even at low rates, and want to go more than 10 minutes at a time and now worry about dead sticks.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Well, when you start breaking in Saitos you should see that way of breaking them in is about all the engines will give you anyway. However, I'm not scared of full throttle after the first 10 minutes of running. All of them get a lot of wide open throttle time beginning on the second 10 minute period, gradually working up to longer WOT times.

FNQFLYER

We flew my mates big cub yesterday. It had the re bearinged 91 in it. Problems were 1/ Spat the prop, to lean at the high end, richened up now ok, 2/ nervous driver so difficulty in getting of the ground, he got scared with the advice coming his way across the strip and goosed it now flying ok, it flies inverted no worries, and does most of the basic aerobatic card "slowly". Owner / driver now a happy chap. BTB did you know that when you fly a model inverted low to the ground and pull up elevator you end up have having an additional model space in your shed. Vale a La5 (not mine thankfully.)

Rudolph Hart

No dramas sr,as long as we don't end up with another tractor avatar.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I ordered a new set of nuts and was waiting for them to arrive when I took that picture, that's all the nuts I had left, I have a little drawer with many extras, mostly the wrong extras. Doin what works is good. That particular incident happened because I had the timing set @ 40 degrees btdc and not at 35 as I thought. It's now a t 31 due to the 11.24 to 1 compression ratio. It's nearly electric motor smooth at 31 btdc.

Hey Richard, I'd still like to get my hands on your 1.30 to play with it for a while. Maybe some day. Enjoy, Dave aka Hobbsy

acdii

Hey guys, need some specs on the FA 62 and or 65 (whichever one is based on the 56 case), specifically the height of the spraybar in relation to the mounting flange to beam. I need to determine that it will fit on my SIG SE correctly. I now know why the OS quits inverted, and not a damned thing I can do about it without carving up the plane.

spaceworm

Do you need data on the FA-56, one of which I have?

Will you share your findings on what caused your inverted shutdowns?

Thanks.

FNQFLYER

Old Fart, you win send me your address by pm and the rd book is yours.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/fa-62b-aac-with-muffler%3A-bx-saie062b

This is most of it.

SrTelemaster150

FA-56, FA-62, FA-72 & FA-82 all have similar footprint. FA-65 is a bigger block same as the FA-80, FA-91S & FA-115.