FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

They were fun little cars but you had to love to tinker with them or they were a nightmare!

Rudolph Hart

Barry i was lying about having a great sounding ducati vid but i bet it scared the bejeezus out of hobbsy.

Trev you're startin to sound like biggles,just kiddin but seriously i will pour some scorn on o/t flyers,reckon hobbsy should join up all you old guys lay back and watch something go vertical whether it's a 9 or 69 i don't get it.How about going flat out in front of your face with a low flyby so you get a good earful of saito?..can i hear some abuse coming..

acdii

oh man OF has hit the feel good juice again, stopped making sense.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Pete, I scored the perfect plane kit for my Saito 1.50, (the one with the C&H Ignition), . It is an ACE 4-120 Bipe with the original tape still holding the box closed. It will be arriving around the 30th. A fun winter project.

FNQFLYER

old fart o/t duration models in full song are probably the only models that use full down elevator on take off. One of them out of control is scary, doing a " figure 9" is very dangerous and the potential for injury to spectators / support team let alone yourself is very high. I suspect you have not seen a full blown competition try to get to one of the SAM comps over your way or better still try flying one of our models. For the record I have flown all classes of pylon as well as scale raving. The incident I described was one where ego over come skill and fortunately no one was physically injured. For the record I think I have tamed this NBN thing but I am still wary of it.

Rudolph Hart

Sorry trev and thanks for the polite answer,yes they take a bit of flyin mate.

Dave in loo? of the missing ducati sound vid i send you a free pic you can convert to a vinyl wrap on the side of the harley tank,if it comes out sideways you'll have to straighten it up yourself

Painted it yesterday for this weekends hotrod show

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Pete, is that one half of a fuel tank for something,you do good work, Thanks, Dave

As I was breaking in the OS .95v with a Xoar 15x6 my tach went dark as I passed through 9,250 rpm, I'll get it all the way peaked today. I picked up a new tach battery yesterday. I've got roughly 90 minutes on it so far.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

If you're going to put a revolver on the tank make it something special like the S&W 500 Magnum also know as a light artillery piece.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Well guy check out what I picked up last night a new addition to my stable of Saito horse power. A vintage Saito FA-120 (Guess what's wrong with the pictures an win a burnt cookie postage not included) and an O.S./Graupner first generation Wankel (some assembly required). I haven't decided if I'll keep them or not, I'm still looking for work.

Mike

acdii

OK someone was drunk putting the pipes on that one. Thought you said it was a 150?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

That is what I thought he said but he was going by memory and he is 75 so I'll cut him some slack!

Rudolph Hart

I bet the bipe will not be under powered with the 150.I want to put the 220 in a white stampe(metric aerobatic tiger moth) when i find one the right size.
That artwork is on the left hand tank of a harley soft tail show you the right hand side next. post a pic of the 95v?
Okc you left the axle and wheels off the s@w 500 revolver,here's the perfect rat rod bonnet for some target practice(39 rambler hornet) coming next post

Rudolph Hart

The rim and tyre is off a custom harley hardtail 150 cube

ps popey i'm takin some brave pills this arvo so post a pic will ya??

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My neighbor's BossHoss is approaching 275,000 miles, beautiful tank. He's rarely home in the summer.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Pete knows his firearms, so I always cut him slack in that department. Plus, it's kind of cruel with the gun laws he has to abide by. May happen to us real soon too, you know.

There aren't any words for how beautiful those tanks look, Pete. Well, awesome comes to mind.

Rudolph Hart

Thank you for the compliment barry i enjoy doing them for customers too.Brings a smile to their faces.

Dave that boss hog has some serious alcohol sponsership! and sounds like i should be riding it that towbar looks like it could haul a large keg trailer and i'd be popular with my riding mates...seriously tho some years ago a mate owned a boss hog with 350 chevy over here,can't remember why i turned down the offer of a ride but i think he mumbled something about gonads

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Everyone,
I could use some help here. I am replacing the bearings in a Saito FA-100. In the 2009 manual (the latest??) it says that the Front Bearing (Item 20), is p/n 91S22A. However, there is nothing listed for the rear bearing, just a dashed line.... I know that I could get the bearings from Boca or RC Bearing, but I was just trying to tie down this little issue...

Any thoughts???

Thanks,

Bob

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

The Saito 100 uses the following bearing numbers:

Front R6-ZZ

Rear MR6903

I found the front bearing can be the sealed type, (2RS) rather than the shielded -ZZ designation. On either you remove the inner shield or seal for better lubrication.

acdii

ah, I have a 100 that needs new bearings, glad someone asked this. Post what you got and where and how much so I can do the same when I am ready.

Rudolph Hart

Yes bob buy the dashed line and you are sure to get the right size rear bearing just kidding.They are like outboards nowadays pretty much all good i go to the nearest bearing place with the old ones,they mike them up and you walk out with new ones.I always buy two sets for the same job cause it's easy to loose your temper with a hammer.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

What bearing numbers does your hammer take?



I could go digging for the Boca book or log onto their site and dance all the steps every time required, but I found it much easier to record the bearings for my own engines and any that I commonly saw across my rebuild table. Much handier that way. In my case it's a simple WORD document on the PC that is easy to update and print out when needed.

This is what I have that covers my own size range:

SAITO FA56 MR698-ZZ MR6901


SAITO FA65 MR608-ZZMR6902


SAITO FA82 R6-ZZMR6902


SAITO FA91 R6-ZZ MR6902


SAITO FA100 R6-ZZ MR6903


SAITO FA125a 6000-ZZ 16003-ZZ/C3

Boca does have excellent coverage and quality choices and if your side of the border would make sense to order from them. However, since I dealt with our local bearing house quite often for work I was able to purchase the higher quality bearings for the same price(s).

Here is where I try to point out saving a few dollars on lower quality bearings is NOT good economy. They tend to fail much quicker from physical and/or chemical stress and now the entire teardown needs to be repeated, AGAIN! Also, the bearings may cause damage to other engine components not otherwise at risk. I once received a 100 bolted to an airframe and found the bearing failure also scored the liner, causing it to peel off in chunks. Costly delay from the previous owner in catching what should be relatively obvious.

ps. From my own experience I would recommend not going for ceramics for these apps. If true they are so delicate at room temp simply placing one on your finger and spinning the outside race by hand will guarantee almost immediate failure, (mind you, ours were 100K apps so things tended to happen much quicker). By their nature they toughen when heated but doubtful you want to work with them that way.

Nitrovein

I guess that's why they use ceramic bearings in high rpm / high HP engines like car engines, where they excel with low oil content fuel for racing...

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

More than likely. Our 100K apps were dry, as well. My friend and his turbine group use oil mixed in the fuel, (same as IC machines) to lube their bearings. Those can run well over 100K with more modern versions upping the power to weight by spinning the same core even faster, (the unfortunate disadvantage is the higher gas flow makes their noise level go up). That environment pretty much specifies ceramic- and very careful balancing and assembly.

The reason I recommended avoidance was due to their strict requirements. I have been repairing and resurrecting engines for more than 3 decades and stay away. Unless extremely special use there are much less expensive options that will work just as well for our sport needs.

All I`m saying is even when at work with the proper equipment and fixtures the errors are easier to make and the failure rate can be greater. Do the math for someone at home.

To be fair the ones from Boca may not be true ceramic, with a combination of metal races, etc. This would perhaps make them less susceptible to room temp stress. Don`t know as never ordered any.

Nitrovein

The fully ceramic bearings I would avoid, they might not be as tolerant for chock loads, but I don't know for sure.
The "regular" ceramics is used a lot in motorsports etc where there is high stress/-rpm and low lubrication.
As there is no metal to metal contact you can't get micro welding, so the more extreme the running environment is, the more the ceramic will excel. They also offer less resistance from reduced friction and mass.

But a good metal bearing will always be better then a cheap (low spec) ceramic!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...ito-fa-100-100

In addition to Cougar's numbers here is a picture. I use these exclusively and have them in a Saito FA .40a, an early Saito .65, Saito 1.00, Enya .80, OS 1.20e and in a Fox .50. So far all have been, install and forget. $11.88 and free shipping. I prefer to remove the outside seal on the front, several brands are mfd that way.