FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I make a little tube and strap to fit around the stock Saito muffler with the outlet of the tube pointed into the exhaust stream. I then run a length of fuel line from the tube to the crankcase nipple. This way any oil coming out get blown away from the aircraft when running and the tube makes it easy to get oil thru the crankcase nipple. I stole the idea from an old timer in his late 70s or early 80s at the field I haunt. He put them on all his airplanes. He only ever used 4 cycles either OS Max or Saitos.

acdii

I did the same thing on my Cub and T-Clips, it really helps get the gook away from the plane too.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

A little late in the discussion maybe, my Corrosion X rig, works like a charm.

acdii

Is that a check valve?

I wonder, what clicks inside the Saito? I was moving the prop on my 72 and it is clicking inside. It runs great though.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

No sir, it's just a bulk head connector, the clicking is quite normal, it's the cam gear slack being taken up when the tappet goes over the hump on the cam.

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

Okay im stumped i have a used Saito 82 that me and a club member bench ran before installing it in my Decathlon. The engine only needed one my tweak and it ran great. I installed it inverted ( not my first time i also have a Saito inverted in a Cub) before fueling i clamp my carb line to prevent syphoning i turned everything on removed the clamp and put the glo igniter on the engine started but i noticed a lot of fuel from the muffler. I let it warm up and when i removed the glo plug it sounded rough and would not keep idle.

My set up
20% Nitro
new F plug
glo igniter is charged

acdii

Tanks too high. Thats the problem tuning upright and then installing inverted. If the center line is above the spray bar, it will do what your is doing since it no longer has to pull the fuel like it did upright. Re-tuning may resolve it, if not lower the tank a bit. I have a Goldberg 10-300 with an OS twin and the engine does the same thing, spits fuel when running and drips when not. I have the tank as low as I can put it which helped quite a bit.

Rudolph Hart

Ya know acdc for a guy who likes 125's you still come up with some good advice.

Pearl be a bit patient and re tune it.My 82 in the deccy is at about the 8am position although i have run the 82 fully inverted,i'll see if i can find a pic for you.If you want to tune and fly it at the same time with the cowl on drill a small hole so you can get to the lsn.Are you running a 14oz tank? and can you get hold of a cline regulater?

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

Mine is fully inverted the attached picture is when I had the 72 installed but the 82 is mounted exactly the same. I have a needle valve extension now for the high speed needle and I do have a hole for the low speed needle. I had two thoughts first on most of my 2 Stokes they are not inverted and I usually add fuel with the carb at idle opening with no issues. If I fully close the carb on the inverted 82 would this prevent flooding of the carb? Secondly if I ran a little longer carb line with a upwards route coming out of the firewall then to the carb would that help? I had to change the stock tank because it had a split and the new one is a 12oz tank and I do not currently have a regulator.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Regulators have been discussed here a few times, I ordered an IronBay regulator a couple of days ago and received it yesterday. I may get to wring it out tomorrow. There won't be much to that though as they are totally seamless and can be forgotten once mounted. At $43.95 and 8 bucks shipping they cost about half as much as the Cline. The package includes two tee's, one check valve and one pressure tap. The regulator body is CNC machined aluminum. I should have ordered two and made out better on the shipping. I have a 10 or 12 year old one that still works perfectly.

PS, P3, you could mount one of these and never worry about flooding or leaning as the tank level lowers. I only set the HS needle about 75 rpm rich of peak at full throttle when using these. At the end of the tank the engine simply quits, no lean run.

Ruffinit

One of the guys at the field said he increased the valve clearance to 0.004 and got much better fuel economy than when he had them gaped at 0.002 or 0.003. He is flying an OS but I would assume the result would hold true for both engines. I'm asking this because I had noticed my fuel consumption going up and my plane smothered in exhaust. My engine (Saito 91) has been running great since break in, and there was never a reason to check it. Literally, a single back flip to start. Thanks.

acdii

This sounds like a good idea for my 10 dash 300 Gemini. I have the tank as low as I can get it, and when not running the fuel drips out the carb.

P3, I do believe that the carb on the 82 is just a wee bit higher than on the 72 when measured from the bottom of the mounts to the spray bar, so inverting it would drop it down just enough to give you fits. I ran into a similar situation when trying to do an engine swap. As others mention, rotating the engine a little bit will raise the bar enough to compensate.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Does the refueling valve position have an influence on flooding?

spaceworm

[QUOTE=Old Fart;12261258]Ya know acdc for a guy who likes 125's you still come up with some good advice.

Pearl be a bit patient and re tune it.My 82 in the deccy is at about the 8am position ...

Doesn't tilting the engine so that the exhaust valve is the lowest part of the engine also help with preventing flooding as it allows the excess fuel to pass out when the valve opens?

spaceworm

Could a Walbro gas (gasp/choke) carb regulator section be modified for glo fuel compatibility? Would that work the same or equal to the IronBay regulator or Cline regulator? How would you plumb it? Thanks.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The problem would be find a glow fuel compatible diaphragm.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

It has been done, it requires some work, not worth it in my opinion. The Cline and Ironbay both use the gas Walbro diaphragms. With gas or model Diesel fuel they last a long time, with glow both recommend changing the diaphragm once a year.

Rudolph Hart

Not as far as i know okc but if you do run an inverted saito disconnect the carby fuel line when you pump fuel in.It's hard to lower the fuel tank in an arf like the deccy and others for saito carby level and the centre tank line.

Richard you dang well know that tipping an inverted saito slightly towards the exhaust valve helps heaps whats the next trick gonna be ? don't tell me your going to come out of the closet and own up to running a 125??

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Pete, this is the most that I lean them over, my little Saito fan is still growing, she'll wake up in about a half hour.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

She is a keeper!

Rudolph Hart

Nice pics dave,beauty mate.Pearl dave has some good tuning tips if you buy an iron bay regulator.

Richy can you believe these pure synthetic oil guys? in a fourstroke that's sposed to smell nice as well as sound good.Having a few beers a while back after a good days flying and this os engine guy said the words 'pure synthetic' without a drop of castor...well that set my dog saito bloody berserk chewed the end right off this guys ugg boot and i had to take him to the vets for fur balls..serious

BJ64

LMAO!

LoL

BJ

acdii

Yeah, you go ahead and enjoy your bowel cleansers, I will continue to use the good stuff that smells like aftershave and not that "medcin" that gramma gave us as a kid to poop. Just the smell of the exhaust of castor laden fuel give me the urge to poop and at the flying field with no terlet, not a good thing.

That 15% Wildcat 100% synthetic makes my 125 purr nicely and man is it powerful!!!! The exhaust also smells great, like I just finished shaving. MMM synthetic.


Well.......

Now I know...


why....

you are called Old Fart...... CASTOR will do that to you.

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

Well i took my plane to a friends house who is really good with nitro engines and we started messing with it. We started it up it ran for a few seconds and died this happened twice. So we reset the needles and it ran but not great and we kept adjusting until it seemed to idle and transition really nice but he noticed the throttle arm had a small amount of movement so while the engine was at full throttle he pushed the side of the throttle arm where the low speed needle is and the engine would rev up and down. So we took the carb screw on the front of the carb off and noticed the end of the screw had been worn down allowing to much movement in the low speed needle and it also cut out the majority of the siphoning. I had to remove the small lock washer between the carb screw and carb just to test it out and it worked great . I have a new carb screw on the way. Thanks for all the help guys.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

That 15% Wildcat 100% synthetic makes my 125 purr nicely and man is it powerful!!!! The exhaust also smells great, like I just finished shaving. MMM synthetic.

Exactly, that translates to the 1.25 being Purrful.

I am liking the pure synthetic more and more.