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Old 10-05-2016, 09:12 AM
  #32326  
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You forgot to add the boilers for that triple stage steam engine. That would be perfect if you were building a scale Titanic.
Old 10-05-2016, 11:09 AM
  #32327  
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Originally Posted by acdii
You forgot to add the boilers for that triple stage steam engine. That would be perfect if you were building a scale Titanic.
OK, my bad. Here is the recommended boiler

:
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Old 10-05-2016, 11:14 AM
  #32328  
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There you go, just make sure you don't roll or loop, or that boiler might explode! Also climb and dive gently.
Old 10-05-2016, 12:16 PM
  #32329  
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I have a Saito 100 that I got used. It looks to be in very good condition with a clean piston. I started the engine a few weeks ago but it ran poorly and only on a rich setting. I checked the LS setting and it was about 6 turns in from flush with the outside of the arm. The valve clearances were very wide open (I did not measure this). I started leaning out the LS and HS and about ¾ through an 8oz tank it backfired and stopped. I reset the LS, HS needles and valve clearances to factory settings. Now it only backfires and this is with using an electric starter. Could the timing be off?
Old 10-05-2016, 01:00 PM
  #32330  
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Originally Posted by acdii
There you go, just make sure you don't roll or loop, or that boiler might explode! Also climb and dive gently.
Boiler burner has been modified to use glow fuel under pressure and then vaporized to boil the pressure fed water in a flash mode. So all attitude/altitude flying is permitted. Experiments under way to develop heavier "water" (H203) for the boiler that won't freeze at high altitude. Stay tuned for updates.
Old 10-05-2016, 04:07 PM
  #32331  
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Can anyone tell me if there any differences in the Saito 82 and Saito 100 muffler. Does one have a larger exhaust port or is one longer or thicker?
Old 10-06-2016, 03:31 AM
  #32332  
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There is a physical size difference, I'll take a picture in a while, here they are on opposite ends of a 12mm pipe and a second shot with the 1.25 muffler in the middle.

Part # SAI6574D says 65 to 82
Part # SAI91S74B for the 100 but is discontinued.
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Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-06-2016 at 04:37 AM.
Old 10-06-2016, 04:43 AM
  #32333  
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Originally Posted by c-crunch
Well everyone i add a saito 30 to my collection and have it in a converted to rc plane called the sure fun. Its a float plane hope to fly it this weekend. But not sure of what the best prop would be for best flight performance. Could you givr me an idea. Thanks Captcrunch
The 30 can pull some big planes around i have one in a rainbow superlite try a master 10x6 and let us know how you went,post a pic?

ps richard could you hook one of those triple cylinder saito steam engines up to a home made expresso machine i have next to the bar fridge ?

Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 10-06-2016 at 04:51 AM.
Old 10-06-2016, 04:53 AM
  #32334  
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Back the LS needle out one turn, peak HS needle and leave it peaked, then set the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time, check acceleration and idle after every other change. When it hesitates on opening the throttle, go ccw 1/8th turn on LS needle then set the HS for your favorite full throttle setting.
Old 10-06-2016, 05:57 AM
  #32335  
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Originally Posted by Dave, FormerDairyFarmer
Back the LS needle out one turn, peak HS needle and leave it peaked, then set the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time, check acceleration and idle after every other change. When it hesitates on opening the throttle, go ccw 1/8th turn on LS needle then set the HS for your favorite full throttle setting.
Dave, What do you suggest for a starting point for the LS needle?
Old 10-06-2016, 07:28 AM
  #32336  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
...
ps richard could you hook one of those triple cylinder saito steam engines up to a home made expresso machine i have next to the bar fridge ?
Sure, but I suggest you fire the boiler with a fill of your favorite high proof adult beverage, rather than glow fuel. That way you can always have your choice of drink. You could also convert the boiler to a still?
Old 10-06-2016, 07:32 AM
  #32337  
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Originally Posted by Dave, FormerDairyFarmer
There is a physical size difference, I'll take a picture in a while, here they are on opposite ends of a 12mm pipe and a second shot with the 1.25 muffler in the middle.

Part # SAI6574D says 65 to 82
Part # SAI91S74B for the 100 but is discontinued.
Hi Dave. What are ithe differences between the Turboheader for each of these engines? I have the TH for my FA-100, thanks to you. Thanks again.

Vbr, Richard
Old 10-06-2016, 07:51 AM
  #32338  
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Originally Posted by spaceworm
. You could also convert the boiler to a still?
I have doubts about that, my maternal grandfather was known to be Noble county's expert on still locations and mash recipes, I understand a number of distillery owners may have been distant cousins. My father on the other hand was a boiler expert and I learned a few things from him too. Anyway on the subject of conversion I would suspect due to its size the mash could inadvertently clog some of the boiler tubing causing an unwanted build up of pressure inside the boiler, never a good thing! Then you still need sufficient quantities to age the beverage unless you are particularly fond of "Rot Gut" Whiskey. Just my 2 cents, someone want to pass a bottle?
Old 10-06-2016, 10:17 AM
  #32339  
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Wow, you just discovered a whole new direction to send this thread in, Moonshine and boilers.

SMK I found setting the LSN where the top is even with the bevel of the throttle arm works as a good starting point.

Did you guys know the #1 cause of deaths in steam age train wrecks was not from the crash itself, but from the explosion of the boiler. The number #1 cause of river boat losses was also due to the boilers.

In both cases the cause of boiler explosions was due to the water leaving the hot spot above the burners, which superheats. In tha case of train wrecks, the water never returns to cool down that hot plate, which eventually melts and causes the superheated water to expand rapidly and BOOM boiler explodes. In Riverboats sometimes they would run hard, boilers were not well maintained and water levels would drop in one boiler since most were tied together, and water from one boiler would get into the other one when the boat heeled over in a turn or some other reason, superheat the burner plates, then when the boat went back on even keel the water would reenter the boiler and flash to superheated steam and BOOM boiler explodes setting the boat on fire.

It is interesting that water boils faster in low pressure, but high pressure it superheats. Remove that pressure and it rapidly expands. BOOM. In space water would instantly biol and freeze at the same time.
Old 10-06-2016, 11:16 AM
  #32340  
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If you have a plastic throttle arm about 1/16" down inside the face. If metal arm, dead even with the face. Typically it will end up about like this one.
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Old 10-06-2016, 11:25 AM
  #32341  
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Hey Richard, go here, scoot down to page #3.

http://www.rcspecialties.net/product...tion_chart.pdf
Old 10-06-2016, 12:04 PM
  #32342  
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:P
Old 10-07-2016, 05:04 AM
  #32343  
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Originally Posted by smkrcflyer
Dave, What do you suggest for a starting point for the LS needle?
Keep the low speed sleeve fat like dave says and tune for top end first.If that does'nt work pull the main needle and change the small o ring,do the carby o rings too where it meets the head especially and make sure the small washer is still there.

ps since we are talking about our favourite old boilers i thought i'd just repeat a joke about this old bird who dropped ten shooters straight in ten minutes...but then again maybe not
Old 10-07-2016, 05:21 AM
  #32344  
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Originally Posted by Dave, FormerDairyFarmer
Hey Richard, go here, scoot down to page #3.

http://www.rcspecialties.net/product...tion_chart.pdf
Hi Dave.
Any idea why the TH is not recommended for YS engines? (But, i won't admit i have a 120 on Gary's H9 Cub, knowing how you love them so much)

Vbr, Richard
PS: Is it corn or soybeans at the FARCC field this year? I have lost planes in both
Old 10-07-2016, 07:05 AM
  #32345  
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Ran it today at WOT and it ran for a few seconds then backfired and thru the prop nut. My setup is LS two turns in from outer edge of plastic arm, HS four turns out.
Old 10-07-2016, 07:31 AM
  #32346  
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Four turns out on the HS needle is way rich, 1.75 to two turns out is more like it.
Old 10-07-2016, 08:30 AM
  #32347  
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I know its rich but if backfire is caused by being to lean why is it still do it when its this rich?
Old 10-07-2016, 12:31 PM
  #32348  
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Too rich causes backfires too. Most backfires occur when fuel accumulates in the exhaust system, and when the exhaust valve opens, the hot cylinder gasses ignite the fuel in the exhaust pipe, and thats the bang you hear, and in these engines, its the reverse explosion into the cylinder from the exhaust valve that stops the engine cold and spins the prop nut off.

Too lean backfires occur at the intake side, where flames leap out the carb.
Old 10-07-2016, 12:47 PM
  #32349  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Too rich causes backfires too. Most backfires occur when fuel accumulates in the exhaust system, and when the exhaust valve opens, the hot cylinder gasses ignite the fuel in the exhaust pipe, and thats the bang you hear, and in these engines, its the reverse explosion into the cylinder from the exhaust valve that stops the engine cold and spins the prop nut off.

Too lean backfires occur at the intake side, where flames leap out the carb.
A navy pilot I flew with called the former a afterfire & the latter a backfire. Gee, that was many years ago.....

CR
Old 10-07-2016, 03:18 PM
  #32350  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Too rich causes backfires too. Most backfires occur when fuel accumulates in the exhaust system, and when the exhaust valve opens, the hot cylinder gasses ignite the fuel in the exhaust pipe, and thats the bang you hear, and in these engines, its the reverse explosion into the cylinder from the exhaust valve that stops the engine cold and spins the prop nut off.

Too lean backfires occur at the intake side, where flames leap out the carb.
Could be. I'll try leaning it out some.

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