Captcrunch44

OF
What ?


F4
Horizon hobby actually has pretty good prices on Saito's.

acdii

Running too much oil doesn't help with break in, it actually prolongs break in, unless you plan to run heavy oil all the time. Best is to just follow what the manual says and it will last a long time. I haven't done anything special with mine, except the FG-11, and been using Wildcat 2&4 15% nitro. The FG-11 I used a 16:1 instead of 20:1 because during breakin I saw no oil coming out of the crank and was a bit concerned.

The break in period is to seat the ring to the cylinder, which requires friction, and using too much oil reduces friction too much so they wont seat properly until the oil content is reduced to the proper ratio. My FG-11 is a good example, by running 16:1 instead of 20:1 it has been 2 gallons and it is still not fully broken in yet.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Plus, you're already running the engine cold and rich and more oil makes it cooler yet, (as you already stated) the engine needs to be close to normal operating temperature so the clearances will end up just right.
I'm going to run the 2/4 in an LA .46 today to set up for an RCM 40. The LA's run very well on the full synthetic.

I did break in the FG 11 on the 20 to 1 and could see the oil in the vent tube, maybe because the oil is Mercury 2 stroke oil and is dark blue. I have two hours on the FG 11 and it seems to be broken in.

acdii

Mine was inverted, which probably is why I never saw oil. The oil coming out was black too. Still undecided if I want to put it back in the T-Clips, or use the new 56 I got and get a TUrboheader for it since the muffler that came with it was the wrong one.

F4 Phantom blue angles

Thankyou my friend.

Rudolph Hart

Dave what you just said about running in saitos that are to rich makes perfect sense,even if you are a harley rider who uses synthetic oil now,i mean..how much can a koala bear?

Nein nein nein kapitan ,it vaz me askink you...vot,iz dis vurm can vid baked beans are you sayink dave hass hoppened?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey there Pete, I don't use synthetic in the Sportster, on a 100 degree day the synthetic goes through the engine like soup through a parched camel, That's a Smokey Yunick quote. The dino oil stays in it. I run 25-60 Rev-Tech.

Captcrunch44

OF
i had to look at that for ten minutes to figure that out. I am just a poor Iowa farmboy you know. And barely can speek my native tongue.
But to answer das question every one has there own opinion on what the proper method of breaking in a saito engine. And usually ends up with quite the discussion. But for some reason most people have be quiet this time. It is rather disappointing.
I do agree that the bast way is to fallow the manual. I how ever don't like to fallow directions and do it my way.

acdii

Well, there you go. Too much lube reduces the feel, IYKWIM! Need to be able to feel that wall for things to work right. Once it seats on the wall, things start popping good.

Was ist dis wonky tonkin goink on?


bekommen die Frau und Liebe machen in der Küche

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Hey Crunch, I am a western Pennsylvania Farm Boy, the Saito instructions are very vague beyond the first 10 minutes, so I came up with a plan that has worked about 35 times.

10 minutes at rich setting, throttle open about 1/4 4,000 rpm max
10 minutes at 5,000 rpm with the mixture just so you don't need glow plug power, most engines accelerate to about 5,500 during this 10 minutes on their own. I let it.
10 minutes at 6,000 rpm, set LS needle for decent idle
10 minutes at 7,000 rpm with brief shots to full throttle. after 40 minutes, lean to peak and finalize LS for best transition, not necessarily for slowest idle.

Go fly. Very little if anything will change. That's my plan and I'm stickin to it.

acdii

For what they cost, the Magnum engines have a really good manual. They have the full breakin instructions, which I followed to the letter on them, and all were good running engines(still are). They are pretty close to your procedure, but with WOT.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Hobbsy your technique is very similar to what Super Tigre recommends. One thing I have learned over time you can't go wrong following the manufacturer's break in instructions. If anyone should know is them, when you try to shortcut the process is when you run into trouble. How many of you guys have bought a good used engine that it's only problem was the original owner either didn't break it in or did it incorrectly and then blamed the engine on being a lemon? You bought it on the cheap and broke it in properly with or without replacing a ring, etc. and it ran like a demon afterwards?

acdii

My first Saito was one of those. The GK 100 that is in my Cub. The guy could not get it to run right, and even sent it in and Horizon replaced the carb. I put it in a P-51 and could not get it to run without the battery connected. HAH, Too rich on the LSN. Took it apart(the cowl) and turned the LSN in a little bit, brought it back out, hooked up the battery and engine fired on the first flip and ran perfect. It ran so good in fact, that it would not shut off, it sat there and putt putted for 5 minutes before it finally quit. From that day forward I was hooked on Saito. It flies the Cub like it was an F-15 on afterburners.

Captcrunch44

Yep
i have bought several on eBay. LS. needle valve was either screwed into far or they didn't get run enough and the valves were stock no compression throw a little fuel at it spinner up and adjusted properly and the things all run great. Finish the brack in and fly the hec of them.

Rudolph Hart

popo please please please don't start these local yokel back country good old guitarrr playing guys to talking about fast v8 pickup trucks for gawds sake,they's can hardly speak english! and i still suffer flashbacks after i watched that movie 'deliverance' way back.

ps look up smokey yunich on you tube,straight talking guy who knows his onions

acdii

Git r Done!!! Bubba needs is 4 Wheel Drive Pickup!


So last night I was working on my Citabria and put the fuel tank together. I always use 3 line tanks, so, I go ahead and do my usual 3 line setup. Got it all done, and then realized, DOH, the 45 doesn't have a pressure nipple! Great, now I have to plug one of the lines.

Rudolph Hart

oh stop blubbin

acdii

What are you still doing up Down Under Bubba?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Dave, you and I always used the same break in procedure except I'm a believer in a lot of full throttle bursts after 10 minutes of break in. Third tank gets some longer stretches at full throttle until it will take it a minute or so while sounding good and smooth. I break them in hard. I sometimes go to 50 minutes with the last 10 minutes being almost all full or near full throttle running.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Turn up the sound and go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BE476MvO_g for Big Engines Starting. There's a VW with a radial on the back at 1:30 followed by a Merlin 12 cylinder cranking up. Lots to love in this video.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

At 1:03 it had the perfect small lawn tractor!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes sir, 50 minutes is pretty much my standard break in time, I have new .65 to break in, I am installing new rear struts on our Misterbishi, the parts are dragging in one or two at a time. The right top mounting stud plate rusted through and the strut rammed it's way up through it. There was only one in the whole USA and it's coming from Seattle, Wash.

If Pete will permit me I may ignite the .65 with C&H

the pope

heres old fart in action on his good days
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVlk4o7GSaI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fds_hupE2vQ

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

This one is better Pope!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT7IFcgTHXs

Captcrunch44

Lol
these arnt my shooorrtsss. Thats Great classic.