dljolly

I use ATF oil, sometimes MMO. I put some in the carb (2 strokes) after flying and cycle the prop. Is there more I should do? Does this get it into the lower workings?

Just want to keep my investment happy...

Dave

djlyon

Turn it over a lot of times like with a starter or just flip flip flip.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

....a few drops of A-R oil in the carb might make you
feel good about protecting you motor, but actually
does nothing for the parts that need protected.

Unless the motor is not going to be used for longer
than 3 months or so, nothing is needed. However....
for longer storage, the main bearings need to be
flushed because the nitro will corrode them over
a long period, and the piston ring needs to be oiled
to prevent it from rusting on the cylinger wall.

The best way to clean, flush, and protect the motor
( two-strokes ) is to remove the glow plug and muffler,
put the piston all the way down, and dump 3-4 oz's
of solution into the exhaust, right down the transfer
ports into the crankcase. Then rotate the prop back
and forth, shake and rotate the motor, and keep on
rocking the prop back and forth. Don't spin the motor
over.....or all the fluid will fly right in your face ! :stupid:

One minute of this is all you need....then dump it out,
and flip the prop several times for the excess. These
days I use kerosine/marvel oil....in the old days I used
simply gasoline/gear oil.

The idea is get the bean oil out, which will gum-up,
and the nitro....which will corode, as well as attract
moisture. I use rubbing alcohol to flush out the carb,
and a couple drops of 3-In-one oil in the carb.

Dave.

djlyon

I agree with the kerosene for long term storage, that's what I use, but I still run the engine dry after a flying session and if I'm not going to run the engine in a couple of weeks I use after run oil. I've had the bearings in OS engines turn to junk in a month when not treated.

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

You guys out there in the dry desert Calif. are lucky; oiling after run is pretty much an option. I ought to know; I live in SoCal back in the early 90's. Around here the 100% humidity from the GoM will eat your bearings and steel liners for lunch if you don't oil after run.

I do agree though, that in order for after-run oil to do any good, you need to drown the engine with oil and purge the excess. It doesn't matter where you introduce the oil into the engine. I pour it onto the carb on 2strokes as that is the most convenient. There were some talk about OS recommending against this, but they were talking about not squirting oil throught the carb fuel line. If you search around OS's website FAQ section, you'll see their clarification on this.

BTW, OS also recommends, if you choose to oil after run, to drown your engine with oil to the point that it gets difficult to start next time you run the engine.

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

Should one tip the engine prop shaft down and rotate the prop or tip it up or both......or???????
Thanks

lownslo

Hi Gary, I just picture in my mind where that oil is going when it is put in the engine. My common sense tell me that gravity will dictate it's final resting place!! .. Soooooo..... I do what you mentioned. Hold it up... and down... and I flip the prop at the same time. I have all 4 strokes so I also hold the plane in an attitude for a few seconds to let some oil run into the valve train. I store my planes level on a rack, so if I am piddlin' around in my shop I will sometimes take down my planes and flip the prop a few times. I KNOW GUYS..... my wife tells me I'm a pain in the *#@ too !!! .. . I know I go off the deep end sometime, but all it is costing me is my time. We too have a lot of humidity here in IN. This TIP might help some of you with four strokes that experienced this problem as I did. On my Saitos there is the breather tube nipple, either on the back of the C-Case, or on the bottom behind the front bearings. Most all reccommend putting the oil in the tubing, attached to that nipple, and flip the prop. 90% of the time I did that the oil would squirt out. Sooooooo... I put my oil in a medicine bottle with an eyedropper. I force a small piece of brass tube into the nylon/plastic eyedropper tube. I drawn up the oil needed, stick the brass tube in the vent tubing AND NO.... DON'T SQUIRT IT IN..... Just gently turn the prop and watch it bubble up into the air space in the dropper, and by still turning slowly, it will then be drawn into the tube. Walla... (there is a correct spot in the cycle that it will draw in... but this is goof proof for people like me.. !!)
I usually fill at least 1/2 of the eyedropper with oil. (and more sometimes). I have a .56, .80, .91 and a new 1.50, (all Saitos), and even with that much oil have NEVER had a rough time starting my engines. (although none are inverted)... lownslo..

tgott

While we are on the subject of after run oil, is there anyone out there who can tell me how/where to oil a new OS .91 4 -stroke? This engine does not have a vent under the crankcase like the older models and the engine is cowled. Should I just remove the plug and oil through the cylinder head?

Any advice is appreciated. This is my 1st 4-stroke and I want it to last.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

If all else fails....you might be able to remove the
rocker cover, and trickle it down through the push
rod tubes, then flip it over, and try to drain it back
out the top. Are you sure there's not a vent on the
crankcase somewhere ? ....like on the
backplate ?

Dave.

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

lownslo, plenty of afterrun oil only makes 2stroke harder to start. 4strokes doesn't draw fuel through the crankcase, where the oil accumulates, so starting is less of a problem. Unless, of course, you oil so much that it fill the entire crankcase.

Sport_Pilot

Actually nitro is not corrosive. Only the burned nitro is corrosive because some of the burned gas turns to nitric acid that is the reason the drag racers wear gas masks. If it were corrosive it would not be stored in steel drums. The only storage problem with nitro is that if there are any alkali material coating the steel the nitro will become contact sensitive if for example the can is dropped. Nitro also does not attract water very well, it can only absorb about 2 to 3 percent of water. Methanol will absorb water but does not attract water, it only absorbs the moisture in the air that actually contacts it. However methanol usually has long evaporated in three months. The moisture problem during long term storage is plain old humidity and condensation.

redxfred

My Feedback: (3)

DLJolly,

E-mail OS engines for the real answer. After all, it's their warranty. They told me a 50-50 combination of Marvel Mystery Oil and ATF makes an excellent after run oil and to use a lot of it.

If you don't think you need it, check the RCU threads for bearing replacement...

Fred

traskos

Marvel Air Tool oil works much better than their Mystery Oil.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

I have never used after run oil and have never had an engine go bad. If you are storing it, I have used a lot of marvel in it. Have engines that sat for up to 10 years. Started no problem when I got them out. Most of the new pilots here use after run oil, most of the old pilots laugh at them. hehe. Oiling works for some, not for others. Depends on where you are and how you treat them. I have seen the guys that oil them every time, run them after filling the carb with dirt flipping it over on a runway and not cleaning it out well. That makes a lot of sense.

redxfred

My Feedback: (3)

Do you see what I mean? Call O.S.
Fred