Telemaster Sales UK

Went to the flying field yesterday afternoon. It was a bit cold and windy but I started up the Enya 50SS and after a long time adjusting it to get the carburetion something like right, I flew the Boomerang trainer. It went very well. I don't think that the engine has done much work so I look forward to flying it a bit more and getting the best out of the engine. The only problem was that the exhaust is lined up directly with the wing so it chucked all the detritus over the wing and starboard fuselage side! It's difficult to fit a silicone tube over the Q silencer because there isn't much of a tailpipe on it. I'll see if I can fit an aluminium tube inside the silencer and fit a silicon tube onto it.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the input! At some point I need to setup the engine stand and run a couple, three motors to get them loosen up and ready to go. I have the SS15, a used Thunder Tiger .46 Pro I replaced the carb on, and a .80 Saito to get back into flying shape.

PMracer

My questionable observations tell me I can change out the ring without removing the cam and back plate assemblies. It appears as though all I need do is to remove the front assembly with the crank and head of course, and making sure the cam timing bar stays in place and then remove the piston ??
Next question, is the ring fit cut as supplied, or do I need to fit the gap ??
If so what is the gap ??
What say the learned out there ??
Waiting for the ring thus the prelim questions.
Thanx,
Bob B.

Stickslammer

Hello R/C Phile,
I recently got my aforementioned .40 SS TN out of mothball to put in the ARF Mustang. I never had a problem with it before, but now cannot get it to stay running. It will start and idle ok, and the main mixture is good. A click or two past rich and it screams at full and throttle and snaps are good. But it will just quit all at once, either on the bench or on the taxiway. The main needle seal seems to be intact. Looking at the instruction book, I cannot determine a starting point on the idle mix screw. It just says to go either way in 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments to obtain best mix. Usually can turn in to stop to see where it was originally, but I got lost there. I`ve tried 1/2 turn out,3/4, 1 etc. to 2. Someone at the field said you pinch off the feed line at idle and get a slight rise before it quits. Finally got it to that point. Thought I had it, kept running it up full, back down,idle good. Ran quite a bit of fuel through it this way, than poof, it quits again. Again, I don`t see in the instruction book a definite number of turns out from seated to start with. Any thoughts? Thanks,

Charlie.

R/C Phile

Hi Charlie,

(Edited) Before spending any more time trying to adjust it: I would take the carb off the engine, take it apart and clean it, make sure that there is no trace of gum anywhere, especially in the spraybar area. Once it's reassembled I would make triple sure the seal is good between the carb body and the the engine crankcase. Push down on the carb as you're screwing the retainer screws on.

You should not have to change the idle adjustment pretty much ever unless you went to a different fuel. There's got to be a reason why it worked fine before and it's not running right now assuming the rest is constant (And you have a reasonably fresh / good plug like an Enya #5 or OS #8) . That's likely to be some kind of obstruction. (If the coil of the plug is distorted it's too lean, if it has brown / black deposits it's rich)

Once all is checked and cleaned if it's running for a while on Idle then quitting it's likely to be a bit rich and loading up. If it runs fine on medium to high throttle then immediately quit when going to Idle It's probably too lean. (Your high end might be lean too making the engine run hot) Being too hot is another thing that will give you issues with the Idle. How does the idle behave once the engine is cooled down? Like after a cold start, warm it for a few minutes then check. If it's good at that point but won't idle after a flight your high end might be too lean, you need more oil / castor in your fuel, your plane's cowling does not allow enough cooling, too much prop (Either too much pitch / diameter / both), or a combination thereof.

Enyas like 20% oil and Castor is never a bad idea. The SS line, especially the lapped / non-ring piston really likes some Castor to keep it cool. You can add a bit of Klotz (Like 5%) to your existing fuel to help that as well. The pinch the fuel line thing is a very coarse approximation, I don't do it. One way to see if it's rich is checking how well it accelerates after idling for a while (Like more than 2 minutes), if you don't get a clean transition it's likely to be rich.

If you really want to get the needles set exactly on the money:

• When adjusting the high end needle valve it's supposed to be click by click and that needs to be validated by a test flight after each adjustment.
• After you get it in the ballpark on the ground as you have before you put the plane in a vertical climb and see what happens.
  • If the engine is laboring (Assuming you're not over-propped) the mixture is probably too lean.
  • Back-off the throttle, land it asap, and richen it a couple clicks then take off and check again
  • It takes several land / adjust 1 or 2 clicks and take off again cycles especially on the last click, you'll see what I mean, It's amazing how much difference 1 click can make when you're really paying attention but when it's done... it's done.
• Similarly, (Once you're in the ballpark) the low end adjustments should be very incremental. Like from 12:00 to 12:02 on the big hand of a clock. Not 1/4 or 1/2 turn
• Again, test every adjustment. I leave it running on idle for several minutes then wack the throttle full on and check the transition. The acceleration should be immediate with no hesitation whatsoever. I'm not saying that flipping the throttle like a switch is best practice during a flight but it sure is an awesome way to tell if your idle speed adjustment is correct.
• The mid-range should take care of itself on that awesome TN carb.

Once it's done you should not have to touch either again except for really cold weather where the fuel gets thicker and leans-out the mixture because of added viscosity. A couple clicks on the high end should suffice.

I hope this helps, let us know how it works out.

Stickslammer

Thanks very much for the info. I will follow your advice. One thing I realized is that as you said heat may be a problem. The red cowl on the Mustang looks real nice, but may indeed not provide enough airflow. This would explain why it ran good while I had the cowl off. It is also inverted, which someone mentioned is not ideal for older Enyas, although I can`t see how that would matter. I have always run Morgan Cool Power 10%. I`ll try again with the cowl off and let you know.

R/C Phile

I would definitely consider switching fuel. I'm on my third piston cylinder combo on my SS 40 and even though I have flown it a good bit the last combo I went through should have lasted longer. I'm 99 % sure the culprit was that engine's steady diet of Morgan Fuels Cool Power 15% at the time.

As per the Cool Power site: Cool Power 10% 10% nitro Oil Content :17% Synthetic Cool Power 15% 15% nitro Oil Content: 17% Synthetic
Enya's instructions say: 20% oil. Lately I've tested adding 10% Klotz Benol (To my "Castor Blend" Morgan Fuel Omega) and the engine definitely ran cooler / made more power. 10% might be a little high but I'd say you should at the very least add 5% Klotz Benol to your Cool Power fuel. Even better : Order some Sig Fuel: https://sigmfg.com/collections/fuel/products/sig-champion-fuel The Champion stuff looks pretty good to me, it has Klotz in it already. That's what I'm going to do with the new Enyas I bought. I will run them on either All castor Sig or Sig Champion (I'll send "bragging" pix on those later :-) )

In the meantime you can get Klotz on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/KLOTZ-BENOL-CYCLE-OIL-KLOTZ-BC-172/dp/B005OWXG3W

I basically have the same engine you have, mine is a little smaller and perhaps a little older. But I'm speaking as the guy who's worn out his "un-wearable" Enya twice over already being on its second set of bearings and third cylinder / piston combo.

Best of luck.

1QwkSport2.5r

GallopingGhostler

Thanks for the tip, 1QwkSport2.5r. I checked just now, they are completely out of stock for now (mebbe the model airplane folks bought out their supply? ), but next go around I'll give them a shot (8 lbs. Castor = 1 gallon). I bought Benol at half the price of Amazon from a motorcycle dealer in Amarillo TX, but your source is a much better price (~$25 versus $80).

1QwkSport2.5r

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

I buy first pressing castor oil used for soap making and cosmetics on Ebay. Always a good deal to be found if you look through the listings. Much cheaper than BeNol and for glow or diesel lubrication purposes just fine.

R/C Phile

It all works. It depends how much you fly. I found that Benol does not gum things up as much as virgin medicinal castor. I've had to clean the inside of the back plate and crankcase as there was some accumulation of gummy stuff using castor (Albeit after over 100 flights) . If you let your engines sit for a while you risk getting the small carb passages gummed-up which cause issues, I've seen that as well. I've used both, the old / newer Enya's perform well with either.

In this day of 20 bucks per gallon fuel Benol (although a bit pricey) is a small portion of the big picture. Also, a little bit goes a long way I bought mine a long time ago and done hundreds of flights and I've yet to buy more. Ultimately getting the right fuel with the right mix like Sig's alleviates all that.

To each his / her own

1QwkSport2.5r

Stickslammer

I took the cowl off my Mustang and ran it on the ground. For about 10 or so minutes it ran good without stalling. I think it being over-cowled was the problem. I`m going to remove the lower third of it back to the firewall. This should give it sufficient air flow and still look ok. I tend to run it a little rich so that the exhaust oil has a green tint to it. It loads it up a little at idle so that it stumbles just a little on a fast acceleration. I learned to fly r/c in 1995 after building a Sig Kadet and buying this Enya new. I burned up the piston and cylinder during a flight not long after and running it slightly on the rich side was the advice I was given after repairing it. It`s been on a couple different models since then (crashed) with no trouble.

So now it has found a new home in an ARF Mustang where I`m hoping it will stay. I`m going to try the modified cowl tonight on the ground and hopefully will get to take it on it`s maiden flight sometime this weekend. I`ll keep you posted.

GallopingGhostler

Where I'm at, an old well established model plane hobby store in Amarillo TX closed when the owner passed away. Lubbock TX's airplane hobby store closed, too. Thus, with not many choices, the Benol route allowed me to take RC fuel from mainly a car and train store and add protection for my lapped steel cylinder / iron piston engines. So, at least it allowed me to fly.

I haven't gone the raw materials route yet. Not sure where one would get nitro to add to fuel (a must for small engines and desirable since I live at 4,300 ft elevation). I certainly don't want to be purchasing in 55 gallon drums or be in cahoots with the city on hazmat storage requirements.

Stickslammer

I finally got to fly it this Saturday afternoon. First flight went pretty smooth, the old Enya scoots her along nicely. The timer on my transmitter was set for 5 minutes, so I landed it after hearing the first beep. I checked the tank and it was half empty. I reset the timer for 10 minutes and figured I`d come in after about 8 minutes and recheck the tank. Came in a little hot so I decided to go around. She sputtered and quit on the downwind approach, but I was able to set it down in the tall grass without a scratch. Whew! I checked the tank again it had a little less than 1/4 left. I guess The timer should be set for 7 minutes. Plenty of time for hot rodding around at least 3/4 throttle.
The engine still needs some tweaking yet as it quit a couple times during taxiing. I think I have enough of the cowl removed so overheating is no longer an issue.

R/C Phile

Beautiful plane. Glad to hear you're making progress. Keep us posted, I'm curious to hear how it comes along.

tamanduarj

Does any one knows if Bobby Brooks (know as shtterman at eBay) is selling Enya parts?? Trying to get in contact with hem with no success

Stickslammer

I did some research on glow fuels, and my ignorance on the subject may have gotten me into some trouble. My problems may have started when I purchased a gallon of Morgan Cool Power. I didn't verify the nitromethane content, which is 15%. This would explain why the engine on my P-51 kept quitting. Even though I removed enough of the cowl for sufficient air flow, might the extra nitro content still be causing a problem?. I have now flown 3 times, but the last two were dead sticked in after throttling down to land. I don`t know what the % was on my previous gallon as I tossed the bottle. Heck, it could have been 5% for all I know. I`m also having problems with my recently completed Kobra. I managed to fly that once, but the engine quit on climb-out the last two attempts. Check of fuel thunk and high throttle angle of attack performed. (See Sport Flying, Looking at a Kobra)
I have one other glow plane that has performed flawlessly, but may have been using fuel from the previous gallon, my also fairly recently completed Tiger 60. Funny, I bought that engine, a used Super Tigre in a second hand shop, that after a good cleaning, has run great with maybe one or two clicks on the mixture. I`m going to call the LHS and find out what % they have. The last time I visited there was 8 or so bottles lined up on the shelf. I just grabbed a bottle of the green stuff and went. I know some have suggested mixing my own to save $, but I`m a firm believer in supporting my LHS. It`s not too long a drive, and with the amount of flying I do, 20 bucks a gallon saves some hassle. Hopefully there has not been engine damage. Luckily all the glow planes in my small fleet are still in one piece and I will strive to keep them that way.
Thanks to you vastly more experienced and knowledgeable pilots,(donnyman and R/C Phile to name a couple) I have now pulled my head out and will pay attention to what I an doing. At least IMHO, I can build `em good, as minimal trim is required on maidens.

GallopingGhostler

Yes, he still sells Enya parts. Visit his E-Bay store at:
https://www.ebay.com/str/thecontrollinestore
Find what item you need. if you don't see it, click on one of his items, the click "Contact". Then tell him what you need.

RC YEAGER

I only fly glow and have done so for many years. Plus I live in the tropics. I doubt your problem lies in the fuel having 15% nitro. I use 15% on ALL my engines, cowled and uncowled. You do have to be sure to not run the engines fully peaked (leaned) out. But that is true for 5 & 10% too. Make sure you enrich the mixture 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If you still have trouble the prob lies elsewhere (like tank position and/or plumbing) or else you ran the engines too lean and it caused some damage (less likely). Most engines can run up to 20% nitro without problems. Dont try to extract every bit of power from the engine.

tamanduarj

GallopingGhostler this link is not working. Gone thru various Enya items but none was him sealing

GallopingGhostler

I clicked the link just now and got this:

Above is the screen capture in Firefox. I don't know why the link doesn't work for you. Sounds like something else may be going on with your browser, firewall or ISP. You can also reach Bob Brooks AKA shtterman on the control line forums, such as Stunt Hangar, here's a link to a discussion about him. If not viewable, you may have to join the forum first, but he posts there, too.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/engine-s...r-o-s-engines/

tamanduarj

Many thanks,, got in contact with him......

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I went looking for a motor mount for my NIB SS15 in my engine and mount drawers and got a pleasant surprise. I found a dirty used Enya .15 IV with part of a broken prop attached! I think it was a castoff someone didn't want to clean up. She flips right over and has great compression so I guess I'll clean her up and put her on the test stand. The downsize I didn't have a engine mount for either engine. I guess I'll be visiting the LHS to place an order.