Club Enya
#851
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: lavagrit
today,I buy a new enya 53-4C . it is look very good . Next time ,I will buy a enya 155-4C.
today,I buy a new enya 53-4C . it is look very good . Next time ,I will buy a enya 155-4C.
I own an un ran Enya 53-4C engine, but I used to help others that owned them, which is why I ended up buying one. They ran great and they were extremely durable.
I owned an ran the Enya R 1.20-4C, the predecessor to the 155-4C and must say that it was strong and reliable too.
Ed Cregger
#852
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: lavagrit
today,I buy a new enya 53-4C . it is look very good . Next time ,I will buy a enya 155-4C.
today,I buy a new enya 53-4C . it is look very good . Next time ,I will buy a enya 155-4C.
I've heard nothing but good things about the .53.4C. Break her in nice!
Regards,
Bill
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RE: Club Enya
Hi is anyone able to upload or give a link to the article/review of the Enya Vt240 i believe either Clarence Lee or Peter Chinn reviewed it when it was released in 1986. I wish to keep a copy of the review with my engines.
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RE: Club Enya
Hi thanks for the quick reply i see the images unfortunately too small on my screen i have sent you a pm with my email thanks so much for your help. Andrew
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RE: Club Enya
Just an update about my post # 795
Initially I had a Sullivan 2 Oz tank installed but because of the overflow bump the tank was mounted to low and that was the main problem. Then I got a Chinese made 90ml fuel tank that had a flat top, but it was deeper and to make things worse it crack in the seam and cause all sort of problems.
Now I got a Dubro 2 Oz tank that has a flat top and I could mount it as high as possible. The supplied silicone fuel tube is too thick and it will not flex all the way for the clunk to pick fuel every where. So I replace it with 1/8 fuel line from www.texastimers.com to assemble fuel pick up line, it’s so flexible that when I tip the tank with the back end up, the clunk fell down to the front. I made a much lighter clunk for it because I was afraid it could tangle inside.
I set the AirBleed 100% open and that solved the transition problems I was having (Thank Jim!).
With this new tank setup it is still siphoning back a bit, but not as bad as before. I got the hang of it and not having any trouble getting the engine started.
Now the Enya 09 is working great! I started with an MAS S2 7x6 then APC 7x6, which was not as good and then the MAS S2 8x4 which worked much better. With the 8x4 I got much better acceleration and taking off was way much better.
The interesting thing about this engine is that with the 8x4 I could make fly bys as fast as with the 7x6! I couldn’t believe it my self! I always thought smaller diameter props with more pitch would give a lot more top end speed.
So here we have another Enya 09 user that can attest it works better with an 8x4 prop.
Unfortunately my Cloud Ranger end up very heavy, the wood in the kit was terribly heavy. I now keep thinking how awesome it would be if I had a lighter plane. The little thing comes fast for landing and when I cut the power it will keep on going fast.
I may scratch build another one, changing the nose design so I can mount the fuel tank higher and use a thicker airfoil so it can be flown slower.
I will now try other props, glow plugs and also try to mount the pressure nipple no the muffler closer to the engine to get more pressure.
Thank you all for the help! I had a blast this weekend with my first glow R/C model.
Martin
Initially I had a Sullivan 2 Oz tank installed but because of the overflow bump the tank was mounted to low and that was the main problem. Then I got a Chinese made 90ml fuel tank that had a flat top, but it was deeper and to make things worse it crack in the seam and cause all sort of problems.
Now I got a Dubro 2 Oz tank that has a flat top and I could mount it as high as possible. The supplied silicone fuel tube is too thick and it will not flex all the way for the clunk to pick fuel every where. So I replace it with 1/8 fuel line from www.texastimers.com to assemble fuel pick up line, it’s so flexible that when I tip the tank with the back end up, the clunk fell down to the front. I made a much lighter clunk for it because I was afraid it could tangle inside.
I set the AirBleed 100% open and that solved the transition problems I was having (Thank Jim!).
With this new tank setup it is still siphoning back a bit, but not as bad as before. I got the hang of it and not having any trouble getting the engine started.
Now the Enya 09 is working great! I started with an MAS S2 7x6 then APC 7x6, which was not as good and then the MAS S2 8x4 which worked much better. With the 8x4 I got much better acceleration and taking off was way much better.
The interesting thing about this engine is that with the 8x4 I could make fly bys as fast as with the 7x6! I couldn’t believe it my self! I always thought smaller diameter props with more pitch would give a lot more top end speed.
So here we have another Enya 09 user that can attest it works better with an 8x4 prop.
Unfortunately my Cloud Ranger end up very heavy, the wood in the kit was terribly heavy. I now keep thinking how awesome it would be if I had a lighter plane. The little thing comes fast for landing and when I cut the power it will keep on going fast.
I may scratch build another one, changing the nose design so I can mount the fuel tank higher and use a thicker airfoil so it can be flown slower.
I will now try other props, glow plugs and also try to mount the pressure nipple no the muffler closer to the engine to get more pressure.
Thank you all for the help! I had a blast this weekend with my first glow R/C model.
Martin
#858
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RE: Club Enya
A question for Enya four stroke rebuilders. How do you tell that the crankshaft bearings need to be replaced? How much play is ok when you rock the crank up and down? Bearings are smooth and engine runs fine with no leaks at crank.
#859
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RE: Club Enya
I rebuilt an eBay bargain, it had noticeably crunchy bearings, and once rebuilt the new bearings had very little play and it's was almost impossible to detect any lateral movement. I bought genuine Enya replacements, and was surprised how smooth they were.
By your description they sound fine, a little play is nothing to worry about.
Mike.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHYmE4NGEzY
By your description they sound fine, a little play is nothing to worry about.
Mike.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHYmE4NGEzY
#861
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RE: Club Enya
I wouldn't be too concerned with that amount of play, so long the engine is performing and not dead sticking, I only replace bearings if they are rough and gritty.
#862
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RE: Club Enya
I'm used to thinking in metric, so I just broke out my dial calipers, if you are seeing 1/32nd movement at the crank then yes that might be time to change the bearings, but if you're seeing that at the ends of the prop then don't worry about it.
Mike.
Mike.
#863
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RE: Club Enya
Mike,
A rough measurement at the end of a 12 inch prop shows crankshaft run-out of around .044 or a little less than 3/64 of an inch. This was done by holding the engine in a vise and rocking the prop perpendicular to the shaft. Would you expect any damage to the engine if I continue to use it without changing the bearings at this time?
Thanks,
Andrew
A rough measurement at the end of a 12 inch prop shows crankshaft run-out of around .044 or a little less than 3/64 of an inch. This was done by holding the engine in a vise and rocking the prop perpendicular to the shaft. Would you expect any damage to the engine if I continue to use it without changing the bearings at this time?
Thanks,
Andrew
#864
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RE: Club Enya
I'm pretty certain that sort of runout is within spec, if you need confirmation, then by all means contact Ken Enya, he will be more than happy to answer this type of question, his email addy can be found here... http://www.enya-engine.com/store/ind...ain_page=index
#866
RE: Club Enya
I just replaced the bearings on an old 46-4c that was given to me. It too had a lot of play in the bearings but seemed to run fine. Not sure how your engine is made inside,(46-4c crank pin goes through the connecting rod into the cam drive shaft plate) but too much play would make the connecting rod wear on the crank pin prematurely I would think. Bearings are cheap when you think about it and are easily available. Parts like connecting rods and pistons for older engines are not. When I replaced the bearings the engine which seemed to run fine picked up another 3-400 rpms so they were actually affecting the performance of this motor.
#867
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: chistech
I just replaced the bearings on an old 46-4c that was given to me. It too had a lot of play in the bearings but seemed to run fine. Not sure how your engine is made inside,(46-4c crank pin goes through the connecting rod into the cam drive shaft plate) but too much play would make the connecting rod wear on the crank pin prematurely I would think. Bearings are cheap when you think about it and are easily available. Parts like connecting rods and pistons for older engines are not. When I replaced the bearings the engine which seemed to run fine picked up another 3-400 rpms so they were actually affecting the performance of this motor.
I just replaced the bearings on an old 46-4c that was given to me. It too had a lot of play in the bearings but seemed to run fine. Not sure how your engine is made inside,(46-4c crank pin goes through the connecting rod into the cam drive shaft plate) but too much play would make the connecting rod wear on the crank pin prematurely I would think. Bearings are cheap when you think about it and are easily available. Parts like connecting rods and pistons for older engines are not. When I replaced the bearings the engine which seemed to run fine picked up another 3-400 rpms so they were actually affecting the performance of this motor.
Bill
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Jeff Worsham
I recommend rcbearings.com. They have it all and are very inexpensive.
Just went to rcbearings.com and found the domain name for sale. Are they still in business?
I recommend rcbearings.com. They have it all and are very inexpensive.
Sorry, I think it's my problem. Try "rc-bearings.com"
Regarda,
Bill
#870
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RE: Club Enya
Hey- that works! www.rc-bearings.com Good selection for newer engines and I like their prices on ceramic. Last I looked, some place wanted like $60 for a pair of ceramic bearings and these guys are way less. Think I'll given 'em a try. Thanks again.
#871
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RE: Club Enya
ORIGINAL: Jeff Worsham
Hey- that works! www.rc-bearings.com Good selection for newer engines and I like their prices on ceramic. Last I looked, some place wanted like $60 for a pair of ceramic bearings and these guys are way less. Think I'll given 'em a try. Thanks again.
Hey- that works! www.rc-bearings.com Good selection for newer engines and I like their prices on ceramic. Last I looked, some place wanted like $60 for a pair of ceramic bearings and these guys are way less. Think I'll given 'em a try. Thanks again.
Regards,
Bill
#872
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RE: Club Enya
Hi - this may be a dumb question but is Enya still in buisness? I can't fine anything about the company or where to buy new engines. I find lots about parts and history of older engines. Am I not looking in the right place?
#873
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RE: Club Enya
Yes, they are very much still in business. You can order direct:
http://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm
US service is provided by:
http://www.bj-model-engines.com/home.html
Bruce
http://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm
US service is provided by:
http://www.bj-model-engines.com/home.html
Bruce