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Thread: Club Enya


  1. #1101

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    RE: Club Enya

    ..for me it looks like the left cylinder is running more fat than the right one...

    Kind Regards,

    Holm

  2. #1102

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    RE: Club Enya

    the left cylinder from the pilots point of view or from the viewers point of view? Port or Starboard? I believe you are talking about the cylinder with the obviously higher amount of smoke lol.

    come to think of it, I did not even adjust the needle valves during that run. I've found adjusting the needle valves to be difficult as I can't easily distinguish between the two cylinders. I'm going to be sure to try again before I fly her this weekend.


  3. #1103

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    RE: Club Enya

    You will find that the fuel draw sharing problem is solved by using 2 smaller fuel tanks with 1 fuel tank per cylinder. I still utilize the exhaust pressure tap to feed each fuel tank. It's simpler to adjust the needle valves due to complete fuel draw isolation.

    That's how I solved the issue,
    Jim Meighan

  4. #1104
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    RE: Club Enya

    I just acquired a large biplane that has a old Enya 1.20 engine on it. Apparently the previous owner flew the heck out of it as the engine was totally gunky on the outside. He had the engine mounted inverted and had kludged in a straight exhaust pipe muffler setup on it. The engine was free and when you spin the crank the valves work and it has compression plus the bearings feel smooth too. Since the engine was inverted all the oil drains to the top of the engine which is the bottom of course in the plane.

    Anyway I had to drill off the head of one valve cover screw as it had been ground down some in a bad landing one day in the past. The only 2.5mm metric screws I had were plain slotted screws, so I used them. I'll get 2.5mm hex screws later. I did forget about where all the oil settle down to when I took the valve cover off, and I wound up with a lap full of old gunky coffee colored oil residue.

    I used some Dawn Power Dissolver on the engine to clean it it. First I tested the DPD stuff on the valve cover to see what would happen, It turned out rather well, as the DPD even got most all the old gunky stuff. Then I tried it on the straight exhaust pipe muffler and it cleaned up fairly well too.
    So then I dowsed the engine itself in DPD and let is soak real good, then I vigerously brushed it down with a old toothbrush and washed it off using hot water. The engine cleaned up fairly good. So now it looks much more presentable.

    So now I need to decide if I want to take it apart any and clean the insides too. I think the gunky stuff tended to settle down into the valve cover, so the engine is likely fairly clean on the inside, but I figure the head might have some carbon and gunky old castor deposits on the combustion chamber. Anyway, I need to decide on how best to take it apart and reassemble it first before I do that though.

    Some pics before I cleaned it up some. the camera flash sort of makes it look better than it was.













    And some pics after I cleaned it up some:












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  5. #1105

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    RE: Club Enya

    Hi earl,

    Dissassemble the engine and take a look in to the camshaft gear at the back of the engine.
    Sometimes I've bought an 46-4c of ebay and it was totally rusted inside.
    I've cleaned it up and put new bearings in, runs good now..




    ..my .120 before and after cleaning





    Regards,

    Holm

  6. #1106
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    RE: Club Enya

    It wasn't too bad on the inside as all the crud migrated to the bottom, which was the inside of the rocker cover, since the engine was mounted inverted. I think with the oil hole on the top part of the camshaft box area, with the engine inverted all the oil tended to drain into the rocker box then. That does have me thinking about adding a fitting to the rocker box that I can use to drain the oil out of, when the engine is not running, as I can block it off if needed. Like having two crankcase vents on the engine. I would think that all that excess oil accumulating inside down low like that would not get blown out of the crankcase vent as the crankcase vent is not in the high part of the engine and not down low.

    The last pic is for a question about if that is what the camshafts would look like if the timing marks are aligned with the piston at TDC.
    Also is this the older 1.20 engine or the R 1.20 engine?
    Thanks

    Here is a pic of the rocker arms:


    The camshafts looked like this win opened up:





    One question is if this is about what the cams are supposed to look like when the timing marks are aligned with the piston at TDC?

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  7. #1107
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    RE: Club Enya

    The are two lines on the drive gear which line up with the dots on the cam gears. That looks about right.
    Greg

  8. #1108
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    RE: Club Enya

    Great, thanks, the two lines on my engine's drive gear were obscured by a layer of crud.

    What are the other two tic marks on the cams for? Reverse rotation? Then that leads to the question of whether the two cams are interchangeable on this particular design engine?

    Tearing apart a old Enya 4 stroke is a new experience I hadn't done before today.


    Thanks again,
    Earl

    I think I finally figured out how to tell a Enya 1.20 from the R1.20 engines. The exhaust pipe screws into the head on the 1.20 but it bolts onto the head with the R1.20 engine. A less obvious difference appears to be the R1.20 had a longer stroke and thus the crankcase was a little smaller so it didn't fit onto a motor mount for a 1.20 engine. The R1.20 was also more powerful than the regular 1.20 engine.
    Anyway does that sound about right?


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  9. #1109

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    RE: Club Enya

    You have an R120-4C since the 120-4C is embossed, an 120-4C is an bored out 90-4C, the 90 is machined away from the casting and the 120 engraved after this.
    You are right about the muffler mounting also.
    Enya describes how the cam gear should be set for reverse rotation in the manuals, that is possible on all enya-4C engines so far as I know.

    You want to get the following 4 files:

    http://www.tiffe.de/images/enya/pic/enya-120-4c-1.pdf
    http://www.tiffe.de/images/enya/piv/enya-120-4c-2.pdf
    http://www.tiffe.de/images/enya/pic/enya-120-4c-3.pdf
    http://www.tiffe.de/images/enya/pic/enya-120-4c-4.pdf

    The quality of the 4 pages isn't that good, but I think better than nothing.
    I've got them myself from someone here at RCU.

    Kind Regards,

    Holm

  10. #1110
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    RE: Club Enya

    Right the "120" is cast in in the R120 while the "120" will be in a machined circle in the first 120. The other way to tell if you are looking at an auction is the intake pipe. The 120 is plated shiny, while the R120 is a dull aluminum noticeably larger in diameter. R120 seem to hold their value quite well. I'm still looking for an R120 myself.
    Greg

  11. #1111
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    RE: Club Enya

    Thank you very much for all the information Tiffitech and gkamysz. I appreciate it.
    I got the engine all torn down and disassembled now. I have ordered new bearings and I will put it back together as soon as the bearings come in.
    When I looked closer, the rear camdrive shaft bearing was bad, and it was a major pain to get out, the inner bearing race came out and left the outer race in, so I had to carefully use a small stone grinder tip to dremel through the race, so I could get it out. The main crankshaft bearing felt Ok assembled, but when I got it out, it was slightly rough. so the engine needed new bearings.
    It did clean up pretty good though, so it ought to be ready to run as soon as the bearings come in.

    I forgot to mention that the bearings are:
    cam drive front 10X19X5
    cam drive rear 7X14X3.5
    crank front 12X28X8 (6001ZZ)
    crank rear 15X35X11 (6202ZZ)
    and BOCA BEARINGS shows these part numbers:
    Enya R120-4c crank kit ENK-034= $17.95 The economy bearing set.
    10X19X5 cam drive-front MR6800-ZZ= $6.75
    7X14X3.5 cam drive-rear MR147= $10.80
    RC Bearings has them too.

    More pics,
    disassembled and cleaned


    Getting that rear bearing out was a hassle. You can see one timing notch and just barely the other notch on the camshaft drive gear as well.


    Combustion chamber before cleaning


    and after cleaning it up some:




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  12. #1112

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    RE: Club Enya

    Boy, that's one gnarly exhaust.

    What does the plane look like???

  13. #1113
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    RE: Club Enya

    I think the original owner didn't want to use the Enya flexible exhaust pipe, probably because he didn't know how to get one, so he kludged up something. He used a straight aluminum tube, drilled some holes in one end and crimped it. But since the tube was too large, he brased up a adapter tube on the exhaust. I assume he wasn;t too good at it at the time. I think he had crashed the engine at one time as there is a dent in the intake tube and the front of the valve cover is scraped up and that probably caused the original muffler to go away too.

    The plane it is on is a old Charger MKII Biplane by Walt Model Products. it is a .60 size bipe and he put the Enya 1.20 on it. But he had to add a lot of weight to the tail to get it to balance though. The plane is heavier than I would expect, but the price was right..
    This is about all there is on it at present http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...tm.htm#1195850
    The plane is a 1980's maybe early 90's vintage model.




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  14. #1114
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    RE: Club Enya

    I finished repairing the engine, I cleaned it up on the inside as well as the outside. Then I replaced the bearings, and I put on a new piston ring too.
    I test ran the engine for a couple of tanks of fuel. At first the compression was low, I had to dribble in a few drops of fuel down the glow plug hole to get it to fire off and run. But after it had a tank of fuel through it, the compression improved a lot and now I can hand start it, if I prime it a little via the carb.
    This example seems to vibrate a lot more than I would expect, it vibrated enough to have me reassembling my engine test stand a lot as the engine was running, it would cause all the screws to come loose on me. I was surprised with it turning a 15x8 Master Airscrew prop at a little over 10,000 RPMs though. Now the pic showing the low idle RPM below was taken just as the engine stalled out at around 2200 RPMs. I think the idle speed will improve a lot as the new piston ring gets seated real good. Now of course I had the engine still running on the rich side, so maybe it will smooth out more as I lean it out later after it gets some more runtime on it. Then of course putting the muffler back on might help too.







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  15. #1115
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    RE: Club Enya

    Anyone have the instructions for a Quicky .09 in PDF form? I got a great deal on Fleabay and the instructions are in Japanese. Ken Enya could only send me the "car" version of this engine.
    Mike MacLean

  16. #1116
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    RE: Club Enya

    Well, no replies for instructions for an Quicky .09, so does anyone know what size prop for break-in/flying for this engine?
    Mike MacLean

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    RE: Club Enya

    Wow! Where do you get those see through props! I want one!

    Nice work on the recon, looks pretty good!
    Go knife edge your cub!

  18. #1118
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    RE: Club Enya

    ORIGINAL: Rendegade
    Wow! Where do you get those see through props! I want one!
    Nice work on the recon, looks pretty good!
    it is a little movie magic. When the engine is running slow or idling, you can usually catch the prop in motion using a camera with the flash on. At a little higher RPM the props tend to look transparent.

    When I was mounting the Enya R1.20 engine back on the biplane, I discovered the original owner had cut down a 15x8 prop to a 13.5x8 size prop.

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  19. #1119
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    RE: Club Enya

    ORIGINAL: Rendegade
    Wow! Where do you get those see through props! I want one!

    Nice work on the recon, looks pretty good!
    it is movie magic. The flash from the camera taking the pic, strobes the propeller, catching it momentarily in motion thus leaving a ghost image of it in the picture.

    when I was re-mounting the R1.20 engine in the biplane, I looked closer at the prop and found that the previous owner had cut the Master Airscrew 15x8 Prop down to a 13.5x8 size. So that explains how the engine was turning a little over 10,000 RPMs with that prop. One just can't trust the prop marking for size anymore on a used prop, you have to measure it too.



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  20. #1120

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    RE: Club Enya

    I'm aware of how the photo came about, it was a light-hearted joke.
    Go knife edge your cub!

  21. #1121
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    RE: Club Enya

    Sorry I wasn't sure. I did think it was funny though.


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  22. #1122

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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: rrengineer

    Well, no replies for instructions for an Quicky .09, so does anyone know what size prop for break-in/flying for this engine?
    Mike MacLean

    7x4 will be fine.

  23. #1123
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    RE: Club Enya

    Well, 7X4 it is then. Now all I have to do is find an airplane to attach it to. Thanks Steve.

  24. #1124
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    RE: Club Enya

    ORIGINAL: umd pru
    Boy, that's one gnarly exhaust.
    What does the plane look like???

    The plane is a old Challenger II Biplane from the late 1980's time period. A Walt Moucha Models design and kit.
    The engine wouldn't run in the plane today, when I tried to fire it up and adjust it. The engine would run out a prime though, so I must have something that clogged up the fuel line. it had passed the good old blow through the tubing test, but there must be something in the fuel tank causing the clog to occur. So I knew I should have checked it more closely but I didn't. So now I have to.






    I put my old Latex Pilot figure in the plane.

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  25. #1125
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    RE: Club Enya

    This may be in the thread already, but I could never find it. Here's the manual for the 120-4C, not the R version, and a picture of my 120-4c mounted on a Balsa USA Phaeton 90, with floats. I've run the engine and it runs great, but I haven't flown the plane/engine combo yet. It might be too big a stretch to hope this engine will pull this plane around, but I plane to try. Usually I would say the plane it too heavy, but it's got 1550 sq/inches of wing, so maybe.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    For a kit you are, and to a kit you shall return.


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