drube

Hi guys, need some help with my 60 lll 7033. Is the carb and carbinlet supposed to have holes through both sides? It had a bolt and nut holding the carb in. Wouldn't the bolt going through the inlet restrict air flow or would it not be noticeable?
Here are some pics that i'm trying to show the holes. Also the holes are not threaded. Could I tap them maybe?

downunder

Enya used 2 very short screws on either side which screwed into threads in the original carbies.

CustomPC

That's not an Enya carb.

The Enya carb has 2 tapped holes and is held in place by to short screws. An 'O'-Ring seals the carb to the crankcase.

earlwb

Someone stuck a Perry Carb on your Enay .60 engine. The carb is OK, but it isn't a Enya carb though.
the Enya crb used two short screws that screwed into the carb to hold it onto the crankcase.
With the Perry carb a past owner ran a long screw all the way through and put a nut on the end to tighten it up with. You want a relatively snug fit and a O-ring on the carb base too. You push down on the carb and tighten up the screw and nut.

Actually the long screw will not affect performance any. it is below the carb throttle and venturi, and located where the bore on the engine is larger. So it won't affect anything.

drube

Thanks, I forgot to mention that it had a Perry carb. Can this be fixed? I know I can get a carb but what about threading the holes on the intake?

earlwb

They had threaded holes in the Enya carb. So you shouldn't have to do anything to go back to a Enya carb on the engine.
But if the Perry carb is working, I would not bother changing it out. Some engines had threaded holes in the crankcase and the set screws would clamp the carb in place. I don't remember if that particular model did that or not.

hook124

Hello,
I have a couple of questions, I hope to get answered here. I recently picked up a never ran Enya 80-4C at a auction, this is my first fuel motor. 1. With the rather large carb, how do you mount the engine? I have mounts with my plane kit, and got 1 from the LHS and both block the pushrod to the throttle on the carb. 2. The parts exploder says that the nipple on the lower rear is a "breathing nipple," what is the crankcase "breathing?"

thanks

Greg

tiffitech

Hmm, Enya fourstrokes need extra long engine mounts because the carb and the pushrods on the backside,
but this has a big plus too, since it prevents damage on those expensive parts if something is going really wrong..

The breather nipple on the crankcase is there to get the old used oil out of the engine.
All 4-strokes so far are lubricated with "blown by" oil that finds its way between the piston and the liner
down to the crankcase. There are other residues from the combustion too that needs to get out of there.
Simple connect a piece of fuel tube that gets out of the cowling.

Regards,

Holm

earlwb

You normally use a longer motor mount for the engine, so the carb has some room in the back. They make 4 stroke motor mounts for this purpose.
You may find it easier to run the throttle linkage forward past the carb throttle arm and with a 180 degree bend in the wire have it come back and connect to the throttle arm. That gives you more room to get the linkage setup without binding. You can drill a hole for the throttle linkage, so you don't have to use the holes already there in the kit.
Yes the nipple on the lower rear is a crankcase breather vent. Just run a short tube out of the airplane's cowl and you are in business.

CustomPC

Another option is the Dubro 4-stroke thottle linkage.

The pic shows a Saito .62 but the concept is the same on all 4-strokes.

hook124

Holm, earlwb and customePC

Thanks for the answers, it will help get this eng test run and making it my winter project to finish. I have it mounted on test stand and ready to go, just jitters keeping me from starting it.

Gregory

drube

Thanks, so if I keep the perry carb I need to thread the crank case holes and not a bolt through?

philbaker

I have an Enya 60-4c with the machined fins that once had a water jacket fitted. It has flown very successfully on vintage aircraft which tend to have exposed motors for lots of cooling. Doesn't seem to be adversely affected as an aero engine at all. The cylinder head probably radiates most heat and its fins are normal. Even the exhaust manifold doesn't overheat on this motor!

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

The Enya 60 & 80 four-stroke engines are really sweet and powerful engines. I love them.


Ed, NM2K

earlwb

I just happened to notice that my Enya R1.20 four stroke engine is missing a screw on the upper right hand side of the carbuerator.
The engine is running good without the screw. So I was wondering what it was for?  Maybe a low speed setting stop screw? When I rotate the throttle barrel and look down inside the hole, I don't see anything moving, so either the screw broke off leaving a piece inside or it is some crud inside there.

BR1

Anybody have a head assembly and vale cover for a Enya 80 4 c

jjscott

Earl:

The parts list shows this as a hollow screw. It was also missing on the 120R I bought a while ago. I first tried running it this fall, and while it ran fine, it would not idle below about 3500 rpm. On taking apart the carb it looks as though the hole for the screw lines up with a slot in the barrel, feeding air into the engine. I guessed that mine was getting too much air to idle, so I found a screw that fit and drilled a small hole down the center. Unfortunately, I can't report results as I haven't tried to run it since I made the screw. Since yours runs fine without the screw I must have guessed wrong on why mine won't idle down. My barrel closes completely.

Jim

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

I have an R120 that I bought used off Fleabay. I have not run it yet, but it has the same empty threaded hole. Since I do not have the R120 instructions (Ken Enya sent me the regular 120 instructions) I have no reference for the parts list. The threaded hole you are talking about is on the top and bottom of the carb and line up with each other. I suspect it is something used for factory assembly and nothing to be concerned about. If three of us have the same empty hole, it could be correct. I have Clarence Lee's review of the R120 comparing it to a regular 120. All he mentions is the air bleed screw to adjust the idle (jjscott) that is in the center rear top of the carb just over the air bleed hole in the back of the carb. A picture in the article of the carb is kind of at a bad angle from below and behind, but all I can see is the center air bleed screw with spring at the top of the carb in the rear. If anyone knows more than this I would be interested. Jim, if you have a set of instructions specifically for the R120, can I get a copy?
Mike MacLean

jjscott

The parts list definitely shows a hollow screw in the hole. Whether it's necessary or even furnished is another question. My engine was running with a Fox idle bar plug which may have contributed to the lack of idle. It wasn't that it slowed down or died; it just ran too fast. I also made sure the needle valve body was clean, but that was after I had run it. Maybe someone can pull their barrel and confirm if I'm on the right track as to the hole aligning with the slot in the barrel to feed air at low speeds.

Here are the instructions.

Jim

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

Jim,
Thanks for the copy of the instructions. I guess I am still looking for instructions that cover the pump operation though. After seeing the parts breakdown illustration, I looked into the threaded hole with a loop eyepiece and saw the "hollow screw" sown in the threaded hole seated about 1/16th to 3/32nds deep. It is a black hollow threaded thing with slots for installing. No idea what it is for, but I can say I have one. You can see it from the bottom (another "hollow screw"?). I suspect this is to locate and hold the spring loaded ball detent for the choke action of the barrel when you pull it out to start a cold engine.

jjscott

My instructions are xeroxes of xeroxes. I can make out the part numbers pretty well on my scans.

The screw in question is 66 and it's between the idle speed screw and the idle mix screw in the picture (51 and 53). Part number is 604C63. Wow, I just realized there are two of those parts. The second is 60 and it is the allen screw that holds in the nv extension. The terminology is "hollow screw (3x3)", which I took to mean it was drilled through. Hollow screw may just mean allen screw and not a screw with a hole drilled in it. In that case, the screw may do as you suggest and stop the barrel from being removed when the choke is pulled.

So I am still looking for the solution to my idle problem. The screw I made has a head and doesn't go down to the barrel; it won't stop the barrel from coming out and it won't cut all the air if in fact that is even necessary. Can you tell if your screw has a hole drilled.

Jim

rrengineer

My Feedback: (3)

I believe it just a set screw, but I do not have a correct metric size allen wrench to turn it. When I put an allen wrench in it that is too small, it bottoms out and you can feel the internal hex when you turn the wrench. Do you have the detent rod sticking out in line with the set screw at the back of the carb? In the picture you can see the back of my carb and the rod barely sticking out just below the hole with the "hollow screw". Do you have this protrusion at the back of your carb? This probably holds a sping and detent ball behind it. I'm not taking it apart to find out though.
Mike

jjscott

Mike, mine is different. The hole where your detent rod protrudes is threaded on my carb. In that hole is a screw with a slotted head and a hole in the center. IIRC the screw and detent are one unit, but I am not where I can get to the engine. The screw itself is headless, i.e. it is the diameter of the body - 3mm. The hole going down to the detent at the top of the carb was missing its screw. My choke and detent worked OK, though mine might be assembled improperly.

Jim

earlwb

Thanks guys, I guess it just looks like the screw is missing,
I took another more close look see at the hole and there is a hex screw down inside of it. Of course it might be a slotted screw and just looks like a hex screw with the hole in the center.
yes my engine acts like it is leaning out as you approach idle speed and sorta speeds up slightly, but if I keep going on down with the throttle arm, it eventually slows down and idles at about the right speed. I also had to tweak the air bleed screw a little too as it was a little on the rich side and the engine would load up at idle. Now it is idling fine. But I did notice a slight leaning out and slight speed up at just off of idle for a little bit. At first I thought it might be a problem, but maybe that is by design to help prevent the engine from stalling out as you advance the throttle from idle.

Man I must be going senile, as I don't remember that from before when I was running the engine a long time ago. I had cleaned up the engine's insides, replaced the bearings and piston ring. it now runs good again. But I just forget how it worked years ago.

I think what confused me was this pic of another Enya R1.20 engine's carb where someone had stuck a regular screw into that hole. I hadn't seen this style of a carb before. My Enya's engine carbs do not have that machined off section on the right side of the carb like this one does. Plus mine have what looks like a pin (detent?) in that spot too.
This is not one of my engines, it belongs to someone else.

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

Earl, I wouldn't go by that pic for anything, judging by the condition of that engine. It looks hacked up. The R120 carb seems to have the same choking setup as the smaller engines, but uses a different detent ball arrangement. I think I've seen "set screw" translated to hollow screw before so I'm guessing rrengineer is correct.

I'm always blown away with what that guy gets for parts engines on thEbay. That R120-4C was the saddest looking example I've seen in along time.