Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Club Enya

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Old 11-21-2011, 03:39 PM
  #1276
earlwb
 
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Yeah thanks,  I had considered that engine too. But it just looks too abused and poorly take care of. The push rod tubes had dents in them and the intake tube looks like it was spliced at one time or another too.  it likely needs a complete rebuild and probably a new carb too. But the side notch on the carb looks like it was done at the factory and there is no pin like object in the right side either. So it looked odd to me.  I was surprised it went for for much money myself.


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Old 11-26-2011, 08:04 PM
  #1277
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A friend of mine is trying to get the cambox off an Enya 46 4-Stroker
and it won't move but more than a hair.
He says;
" I decided to take it apart and the first thing I removed was the
rocker cover, which led to the discovery that one of the push rods
wasn't working. I then removed the rockers, cylinder head, push rods and
carb but cannot get the back housing to come away. Something is
obviously preventing it from coming free but I know nothing about these
engines, so am now stuck."

I can't think of why, when the four bolts (Setting Screws) holding it on
are removed, the gearbox does not detach.

Any ideas?
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:19 PM
  #1278
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The paper gasket between the mating surfaces acts as a very efficient adhesive. The best bet is to heat the valve gear box with an electric heat gun, holding the motor with a cloth or glove. When reasonably warm gently rotate/rock the box and the gasket will eventually break up. You will need to scrape the paper remnants off both surfaces with something like acetone or cellulose thinners and a lolly stick! You will almost certainly find the mechanism is gummed up inside and can easily be released with cleaning and oiling. Getting the front housing off the engine is the same procedure but I had tomount the engine in a test stand and after heating, hold the housing and tap the sides of the mounting stand to break the seal. The paper gaskets have to be cut from gasket paper (car parts shop), by pressing the oily surface of the part against the paper to transfer the shape.
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:18 PM
  #1279
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Just got my first Enya engine this past weekend. It's a NIB VT-240 Can't wait to get it on the test stand!

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Old 11-29-2011, 04:56 PM
  #1280
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That is a beauty! are you going to put it on a plane someday?
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:45 PM
  #1281
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 74SEVEN7
A friend of mine is trying to get the cambox off an Enya 46 4-Stroker
and it won't move but more than a hair.

Any ideas?
Chances are pretty good that the cam drive gear is rusted into the bearing in back of the cam box. The usual soaking in penetrating oil and heat is suggested.

Greg
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:11 AM
  #1282
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rcdude7



That is a beauty! are you going to put it on a plane someday?
Yeah it will be going in a seaplane.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:39 PM
  #1283
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I'm going to Japan this summer. I hope to meet Ken.
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:54 AM
  #1284
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I'd like to see a video of that!!!!!
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:05 PM
  #1285
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Here's my group - SuperSport 15, 45CX, 46 4-stroke and R120. They're all destined for planes I am or will be working on. Not pictured is my SuperSport 25 - RIP. It took 2 planes and a few crashes to finally kill it - tough little thing. I like them for their reliability, robustness, and east-to-adjust carbs. And the 4-stroke designs, with the rear-mounted pushrods are a better fit in scale cowls and less vulnerable to crash damage.

A question on the 15. The box included 2 of these little brass split collets, slightly tapered on one end. Anyone know what they are for? The tapered end fits into the muffler opening, but I don't see what that would be for. It doesn't seem to fit anywhere else. Ithought it might go in the carb intake as a restrictor, but it's too small for that. Anyway, if you have any thoughts on it...

cheers
John
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:25 PM
  #1286
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: wed-subawu

Here's my group - SuperSport 15, 45CX, 46 4-stroke and R120. They're all destined for planes I am or will be working on. Not pictured is my SuperSport 25 - RIP. It took 2 planes and a few crashes to finally kill it - tough little thing. I like them for their reliability, robustness, and east-to-adjust carbs. And the 4-stroke designs, with the rear-mounted pushrods are a better fit in scale cowls and less vulnerable to crash damage.

A question on the 15. The box included 2 of these little brass split collets, slightly tapered on one end. Anyone know what they are for? The tapered end fits into the muffler opening, but I don't see what that would be for. It doesn't seem to fit anywhere else. I thought it might go in the carb intake as a restrictor, but it's too small for that. Anyway, if you have any thoughts on it...

cheers
John


My eyes are not in the best condition these days, but could they be venturi restrictors for increased fuel draw?


Ed Cregger
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:48 PM
  #1287
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Default RE: Club Enya

I would agree, they look like venturi restrictors. In some events the intake is limited in its maximum bore size. Otherwise it is used to improve duel draw in some cases.
But I vaguely remember something like that for the muffler end to restrict it more where a event has a maximum RPM limit with a certain size prop.


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Old 12-15-2011, 01:27 AM
  #1288
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: earlwb

I would agree, they look like venturi restrictors. In some events the intake is limited in its maximum bore size. Otherwise it is used to improve duel draw in some cases.
But I vaguely remember something like that for the muffler end to restrict it more where a event has a maximum RPM limit with a certain size prop.




I think that you fellows having the muffler restrictor idea are on the right track. Maybe someone that really knows (no offense intended) will drop in and let us know.


Ed, NM2K
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:50 PM
  #1289
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Got a brand new SS25 on Ebay this week. The seller says it was mounted, but the projest was never finished and the engine never saw fuel. Paid 27 bucks for it! It came with no box or manual. Before I email Ken Enya for a manual, anyone have a manual in PDF form for this engine?
Mike MacLean
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:11 AM
  #1290
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Any recommendations on a prop nut that accommodates a spinner for the 120c (old)?
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:35 PM
  #1291
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Hi Fellow Enya enthusiasts!

I hope you can take the time to check out my problem with my ENYA 60.

This engine starts fine on a variety of fuels and plugs. From FAI to 10% Nitro, castor and a synth blend, and OS8 to OS6 plugs. 10 and 11 x 6 props - all fine...... Engine will hold a fast idle all day, and copes with a fast blip of the throttle.... but the moment I try to advance to WOT, slow or fast and maintain, she dies after a few seconds. This happens about 1/3 open throttle. Please check out the vid.

http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/...t=4677115a.mp4

Engine is plugged into an external muffler to keep the noise down, but problem is there with and without this.

I guess she is running out of fuel or flooding the glow plug, but to be sure, I've tried many variations on fuel settings - HS needle from almost closed to 2 turns open, and the air bleed screw covering the air bleed hole, to open as well.

Tank will preassurise, and doesn't seem to have a leak, its level with the carb, about 2 inches behind the engine. I'm using a sintered brass ball clunk to reduce bubbles, and cannot see any bubbles coming through the fuel hose. Fuel hose is about 6 months old since purchase, but was replaced a few weeks ago.

Engine had got new bearings and front bearing housing recently.

Your thoughts guys ? Should I try another Carb ?

This is a sweet sweet engine.... I dont want to have to change to running only my ASP!

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Old 01-12-2012, 06:56 PM
  #1292
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You are still too lean, open up the needle valve more. 3 to 4 turns maybe even 5 out or more. Then at full throttle slowly lean it back out. Then when you find peak RPMs back it off about 500 RPMs. Then point the engine up and check the needle valve adjustment so the engine will hold high RPMs near peak without leaning out.
If the engine won't run or it loses a lot of RPMs when you take off the glow plug ignitor then you either have a glow plug going bad or a glow plug with too cold of a heat range.


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Old 01-12-2012, 10:21 PM
  #1293
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Thanks Earl,

I never would have wound the HS needle out that far..... worked a treat. I'm not confident about how 'in tune' I've got her as I don't have a tach, but it is close, and atleast she'll hold WOT now. The HS needle is about 3-3/4 turns out from the stop. OS8 Plug, 10% Nitro Fuel, 10x6 APC..... Must borrow a tach !

As a side note, even after a new front housing, and bearings, the old girl still leaks oil from the front bearing, and I think there is some fuel splashing out of the carb..... messy, but oh what a lovely engine note!
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:34 AM
  #1294
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Yes the engine is supposed to ooze oil out of the front bearing. That was what kept the front bearing lubricated and helped to cool it too.
At that time era all the engines oozed oil out of the front too.
Yes they can spit fuel out of the carb. It is a interesting reversion effect on the air fuel flow through the engines.
Glad to help you get it running good again.

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Old 01-13-2012, 12:05 PM
  #1295
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rrengineer

Got a brand new SS25 on Ebay this week. The seller says it was mounted, but the projest was never finished and the engine never saw fuel. Paid 27 bucks for it! It came with no box or manual. Before I email Ken Enya for a manual, anyone have a manual in PDF form for this engine?
Mike MacLean
PM me your email and I'll send you scans of the original literature. I have an SS30 I got NIB with all paperwork.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:01 PM
  #1296
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Thanks for the offer, but since no one has answered until now, I finally emailed Ken and he sent a PDF for the .25-.30 engines. Glad to know someone will always come through on this forum though.
Mike
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:24 PM
  #1297
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I have a late 70's Enya 35-III BB special with r/c carb. It's in pretty good condition for its age. Any one able to tell me what performance I should expect on a 10x6 prop and 10%nitro fuel?
Thanks
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:32 PM
  #1298
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Enya rates the RC version at .65HP with a rev range of 2000-13000. With a 10x6 prop I'd expect you'd get around 12000 revs. If you've still got both the high and low compression heads then it's worth checking the revs with each of them.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:37 AM
  #1299
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Hi,
Tried the Enya 35 today and was getting 11,500 max on a Bolly 10-1/2" x 5" prop (couldn't find a 10x6!) I guess that's not too bad for a 40 yr old engine. Will try different plugs next. I'm not sure what works best on these old non-scheurle ported engines. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:33 AM
  #1300
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A Fox idle bar plug works well with the hold cross flow engines because of the baffle on the piston.

Bruce
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