earlwb

Here is the advertsiement that came in the box with my Enya R155 engine

1QwkSport2.5r

I bought a Fox Miracle 4-stroke plug to use for now. The hobby shop had Enya #6's but obviously they are cold plugs and wont work. They also wanted $15 each on those #6's. Out of my budget to use those unless I can find them for closer to $6 that I pay for my McCoy plugs I use in everything else. I use #59's which are hot plugs and work great in my Aero engines with just 5% nitro. I'll do some looking around for some #3's when I get around to it. I have to get the engine tore down, cleaned, and reassembled before I do anything else. One thing at a time.

If it indeed hasn't been run, I'll run it with the installed ring and see how it runs. If need be, I'll get a new ring. I'm going to get a spare ring for my ST S90K so I'll order both at the same time. I'm not in a rush as I dont have anything to put it on yet. I'll probably test-run it a few times and put it up until I get out flying.

On the muffler bit - The so-called "muffler" is more-or-less a piece of aluminum tubing screwed/clamped to the exhaust header. 4 drilled holes 1/8" in dia. or so surround the tube with a pressure fitting on the very end. I doubt this will need muffler pressure, so I'll probably take the "muffler" off and run it with the open header.

Any tips on disassembling and reassembling the engine? I have the PDF of the manual, and have the specs for tappet lash. I have to find my feeler gauges. Lash is set with the engine cold as I understand. I will plan to set it to specs.

Could the bearing grittiness be from congealed oil/grease from age? It looks like the engine has been sitting some time, perhaps in a shed. It has sawdust stuck to it.

1QwkSport2.5r

I pulled my 60-4C apart and it indeed has not ever ran. The ring is stuck in the piston (still black in color, no signs of wear), and the bearings are covered in a brown sticky goo that I believe to be assembly oil that has hardened and congealed. No rust to speak of, thankfully. I will soak the oily sticky parts in glow fuel and make new gaskets and reassemble it. Looks like it will be a good runner.

Oddly enough, the bearings are gunked up and the ring is stuck but the valves aren't sticking open or closed.

Anyway. I guess it isnt a bad deal for $120. It'll look (and run) like new when I'm done cleaning it.

It is a lovely engine. I'm glad I grabbed it. You don't see Enya 4-strokes for sale on here very often.

Ram Jet

Very nice collection. My 1.55 4C is also NIB. My .46 is used but clean and rebuilt. I also have a a.40BB NIB, two .19s and a NIB .09. I really don't purchase anything but Enyas anymore. I do have two McCoy .35s that I got as a gift and use them to fly my Flying Clown C/L - they were a gift from the guy I bought my 1.55 from. I guess it's "enough already" !

Cheers,
Bill

Ram Jet

Hey, I didn't get that with mine! Phooey!

Cheers,
Bill

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Nope, most folks that own Enya four-strokes end up keeping them.

The ONLY Enya engines that should be ran close(r) to peak rpm are the CX series of .40 and .45 size. All other Enya engines should be backed off of peak, just like you would with any other brand of engine. The SS and the .50 CX are not of AAC construction and should NOT be ran near peak rpm.


Ed Cregger

Ram Jet

Hey Ed,

So that means I can hammer my .40SS, after a good break-in, and baby my other ladies? You're probably right and anyway, I almost always do what you or Jim say.

Cheers,
Bill

1QwkSport2.5r

After letting my 60-4C soak in glow fuel for the afternoon, I finally finished putting it back together... (I had some "honey-do" distractions) The compression is quite soft now, probably because the thick dried oil is now thin and fresh and the ring isnt seated. The ring was very stuck before, now its moving free in the groove.

I would assume they're always a little soft to start with and as they run in some the ring beds and compression comes up..? My ringed Super Tigres had (granted they're 2-stroke) really nice compression to start with and that only got stronger... Doesnt seem right that the Enya is this soft since it hasnt run yet. I timed the cams the way Enya recommends - the dots on the cams line up with the slots cut in the timing gear shaft. I set the valve lash to .05-.07mm, with the spec being .5mm - .10mm. Glow plug is Fox Miracle 4-stroke.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

It sounds as though you are good to go. I wouldn't worry about the softer compression until after you have a tank or two through the engine with a rich setting. If the softness persists, there is always the option of replacing the ring, either with an Enya replacement, or a Bowman. I'd go with the latter.

You are going to love this Enya four-stroke engine.


Ed Cregger

speed-panzer

My Feedback: (1)

My VT-240 also does not have a very strong compression, but it runs very nicely, so just don´t worry and get it running.
About the exhaust music - if possible and no one is around to complain, I would let the pipes open and just enjoy that sweet sound.

Ram Jet

Enya #3 plugs are $6.80 at enya-engines.com. You can buy direct if you like. The #3 is considered a "hot" plug by Enya and they have cooler heat ranges. I only mention the piston ring because when I tore down my .46 the ring gap was far greater than I felt it shoud be. Enya had no specs. for ring gap but Frank Bowman did. I lost all the saved E-mails from Frank when my computer crashed so I'll have to ask him again for his recommended gaps. Frank will sell you a gaped ring or an oversize ring that you can gap to your particular cylinder. I'm going to gap the rings myself. I'm buying two sets of rings for my .46 and two sets for my new in box 1.55. I'm putting new rings in my 1.55 bacause I want to break it in on them. I have an E-mail friend in Australia and a friend of his won't use any other piston ring.

Yes, your valve lash should be set with the engine cold.

The engine is relatively easy to work on. Pay special attention to the placement/alignment of the camashft drive and driven gears. They are marked and if you have the "manual/instruction sheet" it should be described there. One word of caution. If you take the valves and springs out of the head be careful not to lose those tiny little valve retainer clips ( valve spring retainer clips). I lost one in my carpet and it took me hours to find it. Take you valve train apart over an old white sheet or a pizza pan or something in case you drop one. After I lost one of my retainers I took a pillow case and put it in a cardboard box and assembled the valve train inside the box.

The OEM muffler ain't all that. It's straight through and I think just for looks and to divert exhaust puke away from your aircraft. Try it open pipe and with your home made muffler. Who knows.

I doubt your gritty bearings are due to congealed castor oil. I suspect rust and possibly because the previous owner failed to run an "after-run" lubricant through the engine prior to storeing it. I suggest you contact RC bearings.com if you need bearings. There is an itsy bitsy little caged ball bearing in the camshaft drive gear box. It for sure will need cleaning. I still don't know how I would get it out if I had to. I just cleaned mine with lacquer thinner and re lubed it.

Have fun!

Cheers,
Bill

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Ah, someone else that remembers/flies PDQ models (The Flying Clown).

I used to fly the Flying Clown and its little brother, the Baby Clown, back in the early sixties. The PDQ kits were made in Millville, NJ. About forty miles southeast from where I lived in Carneys Point, NJ.

I bought my first Enya engine, a .29 R/C version, when I was in the USAF. It came in a beautiful plastic box wit an extra cylinder head for no nitro fuel.


Ed Cregger

1QwkSport2.5r

Hey Bill - I forgot to mention that after soaking and oiling, my bearings are silky smooth now. It was brown oil residue that strongly resembled castor oil, but I know the engine didn't run. I know some manufacturers used castor (I know Fox did at one point) as assembly lube... This engine still smelled like a machine shop. Everything is as it should be in a new engine. The camshafts and the crankshaft looked like a bluish-purple color. I'm guessing from hardening?

Also, I had a typo in my last post. The tappet lash spec is .05-.10mm cold.

Its a rainy day here today, but I might fire it up if I have a prop that will fit. The propshaft looks like a metric thread? I need to get a spinner nut for it so I can use my elec. starter.

edit: changed wording.

1QwkSport2.5r

This is a picture of the prop nut that came with the engine. Is this a factory piece or did someone put that on? It has a grub screw in the center, I'd assume to prevent the prop from loosening?

The weird muffler "tip" or whatever you'd call it. One of the previous owners put it on there. The two screws holding it on will fall out when it runs, I'm sure. There is only 1 thread holding them in.


The Enya next to one of my Sportster .65's for size comparison. The Enya makes the sportster look good.. haha.


I love it already.

Ram Jet

Hey good news on the bearings. Well, I guess old castor can cause gritty feeling bearings. I'm not certain of this but your prop shaft might be threaded for a 1/4 - 20 nut. It just sticks in my head from previous posts I've read here. If not just haul it down to Lowes or Ace Hardware and they may be able to fix you up. As far as a washer goes some guys here would be horrified if you told them you used hardware store stuff and not OEM factory and others have no issue with it. I would just make sure that the hole in the nwasher is as close a fit to the prop shaft as you can get to prevent imbalance and wobble. Hand flipping it isn't so hard but it could be painful especially if you use an APC prop. Careful, they're sharp. My .19 with an APC earned me a couple of stitches. Try not to run 10% castor on your new engine. Break-in with 20% and real rich on the needle. Successive short runs of a couple of minutes and complete cool-down between runs is good. A few posts back somone posted the amount of fuel to burn at each run.

The air screw setting is pretty imortant to a good run on your high speed setting. They are sort of inter-dependant.

So, "Get-er-dun".

Cheers,
Bill

Ram Jet

Mine is a Brodak "Super Clown". It's built but not covered. A good winter project. I'm up to here with motorcycle parts right now. My dad had the original Flying Clown but I don't remember what it was powered by. The only reason I bought the Clown was for "old times" sake and a very nice guy gave me a McCoy .35. An old engine for an old airframe. The McCoy has been rebuilt, actually cleaned an reassembled, and appears to be perfect. I bought another one for spares on eBay, not that I really expect to need spares.

Now I know why you are so knowledgeable, you've been around the block a few times. I also bought a Brodak "Oriental" for my Enya .40SS (I mean .40BB). I haven't flown that yet. Thanks for the memories Ed.

Cheers,
Bill

1QwkSport2.5r

The props I plan to run on the Enya are also props I use on my ST 90 which has a 5/16x24 thread to it. I've used a spacer on the propshaft in the past to center the prop on the 1/4x28 propshafts on some of my engines. This always works like a charm. I only have those cheesy washers on there to get the prop tight. I'm going to get a spinner nut for it which will not require any washers to get tight. The propnut on the engine will bottom out before it touches the prop even with the grub screw backed all the way off, so I'll need at the very least, a different prop nut.

All I use is APC props now, and if I need to hand flip this one, I'll wear a leather work glove like my buddy does when he's starting his little Paw .15 Diesel.

You say break in with full 20% castor? Cool.... you're speaking my language. I like using full castor for break-in, and after 3/4 gallon or so I'm going to switch to at least 50/50 blend of castor/synthetic. I'm not one to beat my engines to the very last rpm so I have no qualms about using a little extra castor. I want to be able to pass each and every engine to my kids if they have interest in the hobby. I doubt I'll ever need to re-ring or re-cylinder an engine for as long as I am alive.

I set the needle to 4 turns out which I know is probably too rich. The airbleed trim is set to half-open/half-closed. I did the same on my SS30BB and it needed little adjustment from that point.

I will look back in the thread later... for now its off to honey-do list land.

Ram Jet

You're on the right track for sure. I run a castor/syn mix myself. The way you're caring for your powerplants you will for sure pass them on to your kids (if you ever grow-up). I refuse to grow up.

Cheers,
Bill

1QwkSport2.5r

Yeah.. I'm a Toys'R'Us kid.. I dont wanna ever grow up either...

Ram Jet

Somebody's gotta keep this hobby alive. We have to teach our kids that there's more to life than video games!

Cheers,
Bill

1QwkSport2.5r

Did some homework.. Looks like the 41-4C and 53-4C are 1/4-28, the 60-4C and 120-4C are M7 x 1. My plans fell through for tomorrow, so I might fire this 60-4C up for a little bit. Only a few Enya engines have a UNF thread to them it seems.

As far as using non-oem parts like prop nuts... I'm not concerned about it. The guy that chews me out for using a hardware store washer or propnut needs to get out more.. LoL.. No offense to anyone planning on chewing me out about it..

Ram Jet

I seriously doublt Enya Enya fabricates their own 1/4 - 28 nuts. They are off the shelf stuff for sure. They may whittle-out their own flat washers though. The prop washers on my 1.55, .46 and 09 are tapered fromt the center to the edge. My New In Box .40BB is simply a blackened steel washer. We should care what washer we use - why? I'm far more concerned about throwing a prop on my four cycles than anything else and even that doesn't keep me up at night.

Cheers,
Bill

1QwkSport2.5r

I've heard about 4-strokes having the propensity to chuck props from time to time. I went to the hardware store and actually found some 7mmx1.0 nyloc nuts and standard nuts. I was going to use the factory prop washer and a nyloc nut and then the propnut that came with the engine using the grub screw as a 3rd resort. If this thing chucks the prop, there is something seriously wrong.

I use the factory prop washers with a spinner nut. 99% of the time when I loosen a spinner nut, I use blue locktite and get it very tight. I have only lost one prop since I started all this and that was a backfire on my K&B Sportster .65. Since then I've double nutted everything and haven't had a prop come loose.

All said, I dont run my engines lean so I dont plan to need to worry about backfires and loose props. (as I knock on wood)

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

ENYA 5224 .29 PB Stunt engine.

Acquired as a gift from an estate. The non -standard prop nut is as found with engine. Advice of the correct thread so I can replace it would be appreciated

Upon examination the looked good inside. No attempt was made to clean it.

Engine was oiled up and put on the stand. Nil nitro fuel, home made. 80% methanol, 10% KLotz KL-200 oil and 10% castor oil. After some flicking to work fuel through it, it started.

It runs sweetly. Huge compression. Pulls a broad blade Taipan grey 10x6 propeller with authority, high 9,000's.

earlwb

That is a CB Associates prop nut, intended for use with the CB Associates spinners, but it would work with other spinners too. You would likely need to shorten the screw used to hold the front of the spinner on. But no big deal. Someone stuck the set screw in to help ensure the prop nut doesn't come loose too easily.
They make those CB associates spinner nuts in almost any size imaginable except for 10mm x 1mm thread size.