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Thread: Club Enya


  1. #1651
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord

    rrengineer, the video is just something for the engine lovers that can just watch an engine idling for 5 mins.

    I didn't plan for it to be a ''how to break in'' video.

    That video is made from 5 mins of an hours worth of running.

    I did learn some things.

    I need to install diagonal braces to keep the brackets from vibrating on the stand.

    I'm thinking about getting a child's wagon and filling it with concrete and an imbedded steel eye bolt.

    I then could use a ratchet strap to pull the wagon up and lock the stand down into the ground.

    The stand weighs 30 pounds and that engine can only put out 20 pounds but it was still starting to tip the stand over.

    I had read about that Y connector problem but forgot about it.

    It's true that left just is a fuel hog and starves the right jug.

    I think I'd go with two separate fuel tanks rather than two pick up lines in one tank.

    The video is a fuzzy HD 740 but I filmed it in 1080 full HD.

    I'm trying to load the full HD video but Youtube is taking 4 hours to upload and my laptop keeps dropping connection during that time.

    I think 4 hours to upload is ridiculous for a 5 minute video! It should take 45 secounds! I feel like I'm back in the days of dial-up.





    I noticed the flexing in the video, some bracing will fix that for sure.. There are just not enough of these out there..
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  2. #1652
    earlwb's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    I think the Enya VT-240 has a sound reminiscent of a radial engine running. So they do sound really great.

    Club Saito #722, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #80, GlowHead Brotherhood #14,
    AMA # 928076

  3. #1653
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: earlwb

    I think the Enya VT-240 has a sound reminiscent of a radial engine running. So they do sound really great.


    I'd like to build a little tiny Harley Davidson motorcycle and put a VT-240 in it. I could ride it to the mailbox.

    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  4. #1654
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    RE: Club Enya

    I did a test to see if I could get a 1080 HD video to upload.

    It worked.

    This is how clear my video is supposed to be!

    Now to figure out to keep my laptop from shutting down before the 5 hour upload is complete.


  5. #1655

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    RE: Club Enya

    Unfortunately, the link doesn't bring up any video.


    Ed Cregger
    \"Practice makes prefect\"

    Saito Club Member #52

  6. #1656
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    I dont know if anyone is interested, but there's 4 Enya 4-strokes in the classified section. .46, .80, .90, and a 1.20...
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  7. #1657
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    RE: Club Enya

    To all those who own an Enya .46 4-C. I decided to replace all the bearings in my .46 today. It was a fairly easy task to get three of the four bearings out of the cases with a-little heat. The last bearing, the tiny little bearing in the back camshaft housing that supports the cam drive gear shaft, seemed impossible. What do you grab on to to pull it out? What worked pretty nicely was heating the camshaft housing on my gas stove burner. I had to get it so hot that the residual oil left on the case began to smoke. Four wacks on my kitchen counter top and the little bearing fell out. Now to call RC Bearings tomorrow.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  8. #1658
    AmishWarlord's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: Ram Jet

    Now to call RC Bearings tomorrow.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    Then scream, "Are you kidding me? I could have just bought a NIB engine off ebay for that much"!

  9. #1659
    Ram Jet's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord


    ORIGINAL: Ram Jet

    Now to call RC Bearings tomorrow.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    Then scream, ''Are you kidding me? I could have just bought a NIB engine off ebay for that much''!
    Do you mean that RC Bearings is expensive? They fixed me up with some weird bearings for my K&B 3.5 outboard racing engine for dirt! Where do you get your bearings, China?

    Cheers,
    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  10. #1660
    AmishWarlord's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    Na, just see those bearings on eBay when looking for engines. Saw a set for the Super Tigre G-45 for $80 a new G-45 is only $75!

  11. #1661
    Ram Jet's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    I'll let you know what RC Bearing charges. I think about half or less than the prices you mentioned and you can be sure of the quality from RC Bearings. I'll post the prices - promise.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  12. #1662
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    RE: Club Enya

    I have never seen a camshaft bearing go bad.
    Glow Head Brotherhood #15

  13. #1663
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    RE: Club Enya

    Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

    Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two "extremes" it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

    I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this "high idle" drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.

    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  14. #1664
    Ram Jet's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot

    I have never seen a camshaft bearing go bad.
    The absolute worse bearing (s) was my "camshaft drive shaft bearing (s). My main bearings were just slightly gritty but for a-while probsbly seviceable. I figured what the heck, I got rid of the Enya ring with a .011" end gap and installed a Frank Bowman ring with a .0015" end gap. New bearings and I'll have a "like new" engine. The cam drive shaft bearing bit the dust because the previous owner was lazy in the after-run oil department. If you want to see bad cam bearings give me your address and when I get my new bearings I'll mail the old ones to you so you know.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  15. #1665
    Ram Jet's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

    Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

    Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

    I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.


    I wish I could give you some advice. I have a brand new, never run Enya 1.55 that I just put a Bowman ring in and a .46. I have yet to run either. I don't have an application for either engine but I'm looking forward to breaking them in on a test stand anyway. I have them because I love Enyas and I got both for a song. I think that I might consider installing a Perry carb if the throttle transition annoyed me enough. I know you care about your little .60 because you've put a-lot of time into it. The are some real sharp 4 cycle Enya guys on this site that can probably chime-in on this issue.

    I admire your determination to get the .60 "right" Stay with it and maybe I'll learn something to.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  16. #1666
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord

    Na, just see those bearings on eBay when looking for engines. Saw a set for the Super Tigre G-45 for $80 a new G-45 is only $75!

    I see bearings on eBay too but I wouldn't buy there. I totally trust RC Bearings to get the correct, quality bearings I need. They are very knowledgeable and though they had a hard time doing it they got me some beautiful bearings for my K&B 3.5 racing outboard engine I really tust these guys. They eve turned me on to a sythetic lithium grease made by Amsoil for the lower unit on my outboard. Now I use the same lithium grease on my motorcycle.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  17. #1667
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


    ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

    Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

    Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

    I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.


    I wish I could give you some advice. I have a brand new, never run Enya 1.55 that I just put a Bowman ring in and a .46. I have yet to run either. I don't have an application for either engine but I'm looking forward to breaking them in on a test stand anyway. I have them because I love Enyas and I got both for a song. I think that I might consider installing a Perry carb if the throttle transition annoyed me enough. I know you care about your little .60 because you've put a-lot of time into it. The are some real sharp 4 cycle Enya guys on this site that can probably chime-in on this issue.

    I admire your determination to get the .60 ''right'' Stay with it and maybe I'll learn something to.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    Well, I've been running it on an airboat lately, and after some extra test stand time, I had it running really well despite the slow burbly transition. I chocked it up to still breaking in, as it is still doing now I believe. It runs fine on the top end, and it idles nice and low. Watching the prop momentarily stop at 1400rpm is neat. If I kept the plug lit, I could probably get it to idle down to 1200 or less. This is not the objective though. I more or less wanted to know if the .60 (and consequently the .80) will transition smoothly after it has enough time on it. I'm happy with the engine, and I'm fine burbling it at idle... I would like to see it transition a little better. I'm probably chasing my tail on this one, but based on those articles I read, This engine should transition better than it is. I have some videos of the airboat running with the Enya on it, and in one of them you can hear it cut out a little here and there, which was me getting back on the throttle before the idle dropped to the burble. The idle hangs 500-600rpm higher than the burbly idle for 2-3 seconds before dropping to the real idle speed. This tells me the idle is too rich, but any leaner and it cuts out on transition.. I'll get it.. It might involve getting my hands on some Enya #3 plugs, which is what plug they used in the Review article. I'd be bothered if it only runs "great" on Enya plugs and "OK" on anything else. It prefers Fox long idlebar plugs, but does okay on OS F plugs too. The way this engine transitions, I would not trust it in a plane.

    I'm going to go outside and run it a little, I have another new glow plug to test in it - a McCoy MC4C. I have a few other props to test, of which I'll post in my tach thread.

    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  18. #1668
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    I just experimented with 3 glow plugs on a 11x9 APC prop. Best transition was with the McCoy MC4C plug, but top rpm was only about 9830. Best top rpm is 9930 with the Fox idlebar, OS F plug behaved the same as the idlebar as far as transition goes. 61°F air temp, 5% nitro 20% castor fuel. Perhaps its all about the glow plug with this engine. I can live with a lower top rpm if the transition quality is good. Transition was much quicker on the 11x9 prop compared to the 13x6 that I had on it the other day. The 12x6 transitions pretty well, about the same as the 11x9. Maybe it isnt ready for the 13x6 yet..

    I did notice with all three plugs that the engine goes lean and will cut out and sometimes quit at about 7300rpm. I advanced the throttle slowly from idle (2900) and once I hit about 7200-7300 it leans out a bit and if kept there will quit. Richening the main needle made the lean spot less prominent, but still remained even with the needle richened down to 8000rpm.
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  19. #1669
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

    ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


    ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

    Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

    Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

    I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.


    I wish I could give you some advice. I have a brand new, never run Enya 1.55 that I just put a Bowman ring in and a .46. I have yet to run either. I don't have an application for either engine but I'm looking forward to breaking them in on a test stand anyway. I have them because I love Enyas and I got both for a song. I think that I might consider installing a Perry carb if the throttle transition annoyed me enough. I know you care about your little .60 because you've put a-lot of time into it. The are some real sharp 4 cycle Enya guys on this site that can probably chime-in on this issue.

    I admire your determination to get the .60 ''right'' Stay with it and maybe I'll learn something to.

    Cheers,
    Bill
    Well, I've been running it on an airboat lately, and after some extra test stand time, I had it running really well despite the slow burbly transition. I chocked it up to still breaking in, as it is still doing now I believe. It runs fine on the top end, and it idles nice and low. Watching the prop momentarily stop at 1400rpm is neat. If I kept the plug lit, I could probably get it to idle down to 1200 or less. This is not the objective though. I more or less wanted to know if the .60 (and consequently the .80) will transition smoothly after it has enough time on it. I'm happy with the engine, and I'm fine burbling it at idle... I would like to see it transition a little better. I'm probably chasing my tail on this one, but based on those articles I read, This engine should transition better than it is. I have some videos of the airboat running with the Enya on it, and in one of them you can hear it cut out a little here and there, which was me getting back on the throttle before the idle dropped to the burble. The idle hangs 500-600rpm higher than the burbly idle for 2-3 seconds before dropping to the real idle speed. This tells me the idle is too rich, but any leaner and it cuts out on transition.. I'll get it.. It might involve getting my hands on some Enya #3 plugs, which is what plug they used in the Review article. I'd be bothered if it only runs ''great'' on Enya plugs and ''OK'' on anything else. It prefers Fox long idlebar plugs, but does okay on OS F plugs too. The way this engine transitions, I would not trust it in a plane.

    I'm going to go outside and run it a little, I have another new glow plug to test in it - a McCoy MC4C. I have a few other props to test, of which I'll post in my tach thread.


    I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy?

    Cheers,
    Bill
    If it ain\'\'\'\'t broke, don\'\'\'\'t fix it.

  20. #1670
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: Ram Jet



    I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy?

    Cheers,
    Bill
    The last time I went looking for Enya #3 plugs, I couldn't find any nearby. Most of the online shops that sell them were either out of stock or wanted $12 each PLUS shipping. I just came across a new shop I hadn't seen before that has them for $6 each plus $6 for shipping, and I get a first time buyer 10% discount. I ordered three plugs. When they show up, I will promptly try one.
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  21. #1671
    rrengineer's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    Enya makes a four cycle plug now...

  22. #1672
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya


    ORIGINAL: rrengineer

    Enya makes a four cycle plug now...
    Yes they do, and they're $12 each. The instructions call for a #3, so I'll use that. If the #3 doesn't do the trick, I'll stick it on the shelf. I find it pretty hard to believe this engine is going to be this picky on glow plugs.
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  23. #1673
    rrengineer's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    Ebay item number 290618529766. $18.99 plus $275 shipping. I bought 4 to try them out.

  24. #1674
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    RE: Club Enya

    I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less.
    But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood.


    I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping.
    Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though.

    Club Saito #722, Sig Kadet Brotherhood #80, GlowHead Brotherhood #14,
    AMA # 928076

  25. #1675
    rrengineer's Avatar
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    RE: Club Enya

    That's $18.99 for two plugs. Should have mentioned that.
    Mike


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