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Club Enya

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Old 11-05-2012, 12:27 AM
  #1801
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ENYA .19-V and .19-VI, C/L venturi.

Received from a deceased estate. They powered a C/L twin engine stunt ship.

While used they are cosmetically and internally in very good condition.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: fiery


ENYA .19-V and .19-VI, C/L venturi.

Received from a deceased estate. They powered a C/L twin engine stunt ship.

While used they are cosmetically and internally in very good condition.

I have two of these beauties. You're gonna love them. Both were purchased on eBay for a song. One I received as rusted-up and frozen solid. A-little heat and some TLC and she has better compression than the one that wasn't rusted up. They run like the hammers of hell. But then, what would you expect from an Enya? You can put an RC carb on them easily and inexpensively.

Enjoy,

Bill
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:57 AM
  #1803
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ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

I got a chance to get out and run my little Enya SS30bb engine today. I really like this engine. It is just an absolute sweetheart of an engine. Even in 40°F weather, it fired off with a flick of the starter. This made my day.

I was going to try to run the 60-4C as well, but ran out of sunlight pretty quickly this afternoon. Hoping to have some time tomorrow or Tuesday to get another run or two in before the white stuff starts piling up.

I've got a brand new SS.40BB to install in a Brodak Oriental CL. I hope I have the same luck.

Cheers,
Bill
Run it in very slowly, and use 25% castor. Thats what I did. I spent a good 2 hours with it on the stand. Overkill? Probably. But for how this engine runs, well worth the time. IMO. Mine is iron/steel.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:41 AM
  #1804
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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

I got a chance to get out and run my little Enya SS30bb engine today. I really like this engine. It is just an absolute sweetheart of an engine. Even in 40°F weather, it fired off with a flick of the starter. This made my day.

I was going to try to run the 60-4C as well, but ran out of sunlight pretty quickly this afternoon. Hoping to have some time tomorrow or Tuesday to get another run or two in before the white stuff starts piling up.

I've got a brand new SS.40BB to install in a Brodak Oriental CL. I hope I have the same luck.

Cheers,
Bill
Run it in very slowly, and use 25% castor. Thats what I did. I spent a good 2 hours with it on the stand. Overkill? Probably. But for how this engine runs, well worth the time. IMO. Mine is iron/steel.
Great advice! Thanks. Mine is iron/steel also.

Cheers,
Bill
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:41 AM
  #1805
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Make em look like new...boil them in a crock-pot using the old style antifreeze. Take em apart when ya do it. Capt,n
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:48 AM
  #1806
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Good morning to everyone in Enyaland. Are there any guys here that might have a muffler for a 60-4C or 80-4C that they're willing to part with? I dont really have to lower the noise so much as I'd like to try a pressurized fuel system. I tried it once before with a small Saito muffler, but the JB Weld holding the outlet onto the muffler body didnt last long and the muffler fell apart. There isnt much muffler pressure when the whole end of the muffler is wide open.

I figured I would ask here first and use feebay as a last resort.

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Old 11-17-2012, 07:06 AM
  #1807
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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Good morning to everyone in Enyaland. Are there any guys here that might have a muffler for a 60-4C or 80-4C that they're willing to part with? I dont really have to lower the noise so much as I'd like to try a pressurized fuel system. I tried it once before with a small Saito muffler, but the JB Weld holding the outlet onto the muffler body didnt last long and the muffler fell apart. There isnt much muffler pressure when the whole end of the muffler is wide open.

I figured I would ask here first and use feebay as a last resort.


I would contact a guy named Bob Shtterman. He lists on eBay. I don't have a direct E-mail for him but just put in a search under Enya and you'll find his stuff. He's go loads of Enya parts and I'd be surprised if he didn't have what you need.

Cheers,
Bill
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:17 AM
  #1808
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Good morning to everyone in Enyaland. Are there any guys here that might have a muffler for a 60-4C or 80-4C that they're willing to part with? I dont really have to lower the noise so much as I'd like to try a pressurized fuel system. I tried it once before with a small Saito muffler, but the JB Weld holding the outlet onto the muffler body didnt last long and the muffler fell apart. There isnt much muffler pressure when the whole end of the muffler is wide open.

I figured I would ask here first and use feebay as a last resort.


I would contact a guy named Bob Shtterman. He lists on eBay. I don't have a direct E-mail for him but just put in a search under Enya and you'll find his stuff. He's go loads of Enya parts and I'd be surprised if he didn't have what you need.

Cheers,
Bill
I know about him, though I thought I'd ask the guys around here first.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:20 AM
  #1809
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Good morning to everyone in Enyaland. Are there any guys here that might have a muffler for a 60-4C or 80-4C that they're willing to part with? I dont really have to lower the noise so much as I'd like to try a pressurized fuel system. I tried it once before with a small Saito muffler, but the JB Weld holding the outlet onto the muffler body didnt last long and the muffler fell apart. There isnt much muffler pressure when the whole end of the muffler is wide open.

I figured I would ask here first and use feebay as a last resort.


I would contact a guy named Bob Shtterman. He lists on eBay. I don't have a direct E-mail for him but just put in a search under Enya and you'll find his stuff. He's go loads of Enya parts and I'd be surprised if he didn't have what you need.

Cheers,
Bill
I know about him, though I thought I'd ask the guys around here first.
Gotcha! I bought from him and he's a real good guy.

Cheers,
Bill
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:12 AM
  #1810
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Thats good to know. Thanks.
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:23 AM
  #1811
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I've bought from Shtterman too, great service. You can also ask Enya directly, they are very nice too deal with too.
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:41 AM
  #1812
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Default RE: Club Enya

You'd be surprised at how much old stock parts Ken Enya might have lying around.
Contact him through the Enya web site and ask.
I know guys here in Aus that have got parts from him for engines dis-continued years ago.

Fredo
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:00 PM
  #1813
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ORIGINAL: PWF63

You'd be surprised at how much old stock parts Ken Enya might have lying around.
Contact him through the Enya web site and ask.
I know guys here in Aus that have got parts from him for engines dis-continued years ago.

Fredo
Good point Fred. A couple of years ago he sent me a new shaft for a 15-III - which would be about a 1966 model.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:57 PM
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Default RE: Club Enya

If I go the Enya direct route, what other "consumable" parts would it beneficial to have on-hand "just in case" for my 60-4C? Ordering a muffler only wouldn't be worth the shipping so maybe if I should order/find a set of valve springs and maybe replacement cams?

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Old 11-19-2012, 07:45 PM
  #1815
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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

If I go the Enya direct route, what other ''consumable'' parts would it beneficial to have on-hand ''just in case'' for my 60-4C? Ordering a muffler only wouldn't be worth the shipping so maybe if I should order/find a set of valve springs and maybe replacement cams?


The first thing that come to mind is bearings. Although, if you reliably after-run lube your engine that shouldn't be a problem I would not buy rings from Enya. I've just replaced the rings in three of my Enyas and two were brand new.

Cheers

Bill
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:27 PM
  #1816
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ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

If I go the Enya direct route, what other ''consumable'' parts would it beneficial to have on-hand ''just in case'' for my 60-4C? Ordering a muffler only wouldn't be worth the shipping so maybe if I should order/find a set of valve springs and maybe replacement cams?


The first thing that come to mind is bearings. Although, if you reliably after-run lube your engine that shouldn't be a problem I would not buy rings from Enya. I've just replaced the rings in three of my Enyas and two were brand new.

Cheers

Bill
Bill - I'm still running the stock bearings and ring, I have a Bowman ring for a spare should I need it. Bearings I will get from RC-Bearings. I do very little for after-run other than run the engine dry. When I pulled the cam box cover last week, i got a hand full of castor oil. Same with the crankcase breather. Since it will get put up for winter, it will get oiled heavily but otherwise I do not do anything special.

I think I might be wise to have some spare parts for it seeing as it hasn't been made for a long time and parts may get harder to find when I actually need them. I think the parts I should have would be cams, tappets, valve springs, and rockers. The rest is/should be solid for many many years.


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Old 11-19-2012, 10:40 PM
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Another thing you might not know about Enya is that  you can send Ken I think it's 10 blown plugs in return for 1 new one.
He recycles the platinum.

Fredo
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:10 PM
  #1818
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


Quote:
ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

If I go the Enya direct route, what other ''consumable'' parts would it beneficial to have on-hand ''just in case'' for my 60-4C? Ordering a muffler only wouldn't be worth the shipping so maybe if I should order/find a set of valve springs and maybe replacement cams?


The first thing that come to mind is bearings. Although, if you reliably after-run lube your engine that shouldn't be a problem I would not buy rings from Enya. I've just replaced the rings in three of my Enyas and two were brand new.

Cheers

Bill
Bill - I'm still running the stock bearings and ring, I have a Bowman ring for a spare should I need it. Bearings I will get from RC-Bearings. I do very little for after-run other than run the engine dry. When I pulled the cam box cover last week, i got a hand full of castor oil. Same with the crankcase breather. Since it will get put up for winter, it will get oiled heavily but otherwise I do not do anything special.

I think I might be wise to have some spare parts for it seeing as it hasn't been made for a long time and parts may get harder to find when I actually need them. I think the parts I should have would be cams, tappets, valve springs, and rockers. The rest is/should be solid for many many years.



Sometimes I think it's less expensive to buy a nicely priced used one on eBay for parts. A feelow gave me an old McCoy .35 but it needed a needle valve so I bought a cheap McCoy on eBAy and it was so nice that I wound up buying a needle valve from Bob Shtterman and now I have TWO beautiful McCoys. I need anopther for parts.

Bill :-)
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:43 AM
  #1819
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By buying a used one, one is hoping it isn't rusted to oblivion, OR the parts are pretty worn and
Not worth it.

AFAIC, I'd be more inclined to buy new parts. Thanks for the idea though.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:57 AM
  #1820
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I had acquired a old biplane with a ragged out Enya R1.20 engine in it. I cleaned it all up and replaced the bearings and ring and it now runs pretty good again. It was cheap at the time so, I didn't feel bad about it. Anyway, the original owner kludged the exhaust and ran a straight pipe angled out and down. He simply pinched the pip together and drill a assortment of holes in the end.  So you could always do that with a length of tubing too. The muffler pressure fitting is up at the the other end where the previous owner had kludged up a tube adapter on the exhaust pipe. Since the engine had a dent in the intake manifold tube, I assumed the engine had been crashed at one time or another.

I also buy parts from Shtterman. He can save quite a bit on shipping charges as he orders stuff from Enya quite often and your order can be piggy backed with his orders.

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Old 11-20-2012, 05:03 AM
  #1821
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

By buying a used one, one is hoping it isn't rusted to oblivion, OR the parts are pretty worn and
Not worth it.

AFAIC, I'd be more inclined to buy new parts. Thanks for the idea though.

I bought a .19 vi 4006 for parts. The cylinder and piston and liner to crankcase were rusted tight. A-little heat and TLC and it's back together with better compression than the .19 vi that wasn't rusted-up. Enyas are tuogh - even when neglected.

Bill
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:48 AM
  #1822
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Bill & Earl - I know there are diamonds in the rough, but certain parts I would feel better about buying new. Namely cams and tappets, and valve springs. I don't know of anyone that would buy used Chevy 350 parts like valve lifters/tappets or camshafts to use in a good 350. If our model engines had roller lifters, then my opinion would be different.

Sometimes peace of mind trumps a bargain. Just my opinion.

I hope I don't need parts, but old discontinued stuff is eventually hard to find/expensive.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:31 AM
  #1823
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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Bill & Earl - I know there are diamonds in the rough, but certain parts I would feel better about buying new. Namely cams and tappets, and valve springs. I don't know of anyone that would buy used Chevy 350 parts like valve lifters/tappets or camshafts to use in a good 350. If our model engines had roller lifters, then my opinion would be different.

Sometimes peace of mind trumps a bargain. Just my opinion.

I hope I don't need parts, but old discontinued stuff is eventually hard to find/expensive.

I have a 30 + year old motorcycle. The manufacturer may have about 5% of the parts available for it. I'm used to scrounging and hoarding parts. Sometime you just have no choice. Anybody have a lead on new McCoy .35 parts? I agree with you though, anytime a new part is available - use it.

Cheers,

Bill
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:47 PM
  #1824
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I am restoring a 1956 Austin Healey 100 (BN2) and we decided to re-use the old valve springs for a nice smooth 750 RPM idle. It's OK because redline on this old engine is around 5 thousand. Most of the time rpm will be below 3 thousand in normal driving. Not much chance of valve float with used springs because of the low RPM. The new valve springs were too stiff and we felt they would just wear out the rocker shaft sooner causing lower oil pressure. I'm not sure how this applies to Enya four strokes, but new valve train components are probably far cheaper for the Enya than an Austin Healey classic car, so just replacing them when you buy a clapped out Ebay purchase only makes good sense because it is relatively cheap. That being said, I did not replace any of the valve train parts on the rebuild I just did on an Enya .46 four stroke.
Mike MacLean
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:04 PM
  #1825
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ORIGINAL: rrengineer

I am restoring a 1956 Austin Healey 100 (BN2) and we decided to re-use the old valve springs for a nice smooth 750 RPM idle. It's OK because redline on this old engine is around 5 thousand. Most of the time rpm will be below 3 thousand in normal driving. Not much chance of valve float with used springs because of the low RPM. The new valve springs were too stiff and we felt they would just wear out the rocker shaft sooner causing lower oil pressure. I'm not sure how this applies to Enya four strokes, but new valve train components are probably far cheaper for the Enya than an Austin Healey classic car, so just replacing them when you buy a clapped out Ebay purchase only makes good sense because it is relatively cheap. That being said, I did not replace any of the valve train parts on the rebuild I just did on an Enya .46 four stroke.
Mike MacLean

I just rebuilt, my .46 4C. I replaced the bearings and piston ring but it never ocurred to me to replace any of the valve train components. Heck, you could almost use a ball point pen spring for a valve spring.

Cheers,
Bill
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