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Old 03-07-2015, 06:57 PM
  #2376  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Tim, you just keep right on postin, we'll work it out.
I'm good at making myself look like an idiot.. As long as everyone can handle that, sure thing!
Old 03-07-2015, 07:02 PM
  #2377  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
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Here's photos of my Enya 46-4C I that I obtained recently. The outside is much nicer than the inside. Note the aluminum corrosion is much worse than the rust. It was nothing like the horror stories I've read about having flakes of rust on the cams and such. This engine wasn't like that at all. Definitely poorly stored at some point in its life though.
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:05 PM
  #2378  
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More pics
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Old 03-08-2015, 03:51 AM
  #2379  
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The bearing visible in the last picture in post #2377 is the one that was bad in my .46MKII, the rest were all good.
Old 03-08-2015, 04:33 AM
  #2380  
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Just about every Enya part you need except for bearings and rings is available directly from Enya. [email protected]
http://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm
Old 03-08-2015, 04:52 AM
  #2381  
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I think all of the bearings and bushings are in good shape. I'll find the bearing sizes and jot them down just in case, and I'll get a spare ring for it. My biggest concern is getting the corrosion off the surface of the aluminum. I put a bunch of the parts in evaporust last night when I posted the pictures. I've read the only way to get corrosion off aluminum is mechanically. Might have a date with the dremel, some scotchbrite, and BKF or DPD.
Old 03-08-2015, 06:38 AM
  #2382  
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Originally Posted by PMracer
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...a%2080-4C.html
Hi NCRC,
Just realized you're in NC. This link is from Sceptre engine tests. When I said they were different I should have been more specific
and stated "the castings are the same except for the bore and the embossed 60 or 80 on the barrel.
Technically this is one of those deals where "they are actually the same except different"

Now for my issue, the holes don't appear to be a problem in the pixx however when thay are in front of you on the bench they
may look dffierent again. Let me know what your time line is and what you expect to charge for it.

Thanx,
Bob B.
Hi NCRC,
Never got a response to this repy I sent you !! Let me know .
Thanx,
Bob B.
Old 03-08-2015, 06:44 AM
  #2383  
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Some pics of the steel parts after an overnight soak in Evaporust. I used some Bar Keepers Friend to clean up the cambox in the crankcase. Not a lot better than before. I think I'll let her ride and run it. I need to get the liner out and clean up a little surface corrosion in the bore but otherwise it's probably as clean as its gonna get without an acid dip or sandblasting.
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:23 AM
  #2384  
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Some pics of the steel parts after an overnight soak in Evaporust. I used some Bar Keepers Friend to clean up the cambox in the crankcase. Not a lot better than before. I think I'll let her ride and run it. I need to get the liner out and clean up a little surface corrosion in the bore but otherwise it's probably as clean as its gonna get without an acid dip or sandblasting.
Looking at these parts I have to believe those four bearings are toast! I would NOT sandblast those parts. Scotchbright or media blast with walnut shells.

Cheers,

Bill
Old 03-08-2015, 07:45 AM
  #2385  
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Originally Posted by Ram Jet
Looking at these parts I have to believe those four bearings are toast! I would NOT sandblast those parts. Scotchbright or media blast with walnut shells.

Cheers,

Bill
Since I have it apart I'm baking the crankcase, cambox, and front housing to get the bearings out so they can be measured. The liner was stuck anyway, so I figured it would be a good time to heat it up and get it out along with the bearings. For peace of mind's sake, I'll replace the bearings. .. I do not believe they are bad yet, but peace of mind is cheap. The ring gap is .003-.004" and looks to be in good shape so for now I'll leave it in. I'll get a spare though. This engine has very little time on it.
Old 03-08-2015, 08:12 AM
  #2386  
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All of the bearings came out after a 8 minute bake at 400F. Bearing sizes for the 46-4C I are: cambox cover (rear cam drive) 5x10x3. Front cam drive (crankcase) 8x16x4. Front/rear crank bearings 8x19x6 & 10x22x6 respectively.

Going through all of my ringed engines and putting together a ring order and a bearing order.
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:53 AM
  #2387  
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Since I have it apart I'm baking the crankcase, cambox, and front housing to get the bearings out so they can be measured. The liner was stuck anyway, so I figured it would be a good time to heat it up and get it out along with the bearings. For peace of mind's sake, I'll replace the bearings. .. I do not believe they are bad yet, but peace of mind is cheap. The ring gap is .003-.004" and looks to be in good shape so for now I'll leave it in. I'll get a spare though. This engine has very little time on it.
Hi Quickie,

That little tiny bearing that supports the camshaft at the very back of the engine. Here's how I got it out. I heated the aluminum housing on my gas stove and then wacked the housing soundly several times on my counter top. The bearing fell out.

Just a thought,

Bill
Old 03-08-2015, 09:08 AM
  #2388  
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Originally Posted by Ram Jet
Hi Quickie,

That little tiny bearing that supports the camshaft at the very back of the engine. Here's how I got it out. I heated the aluminum housing on my gas stove and then wacked the housing soundly several times on my counter top. The bearing fell out.

Just a thought,

Bill
I baked all of it and a little whack on a block of wood got all of the bearings out including the tiny cam drive bearing in the cambox cover. It was the easiest to get out even. Heat is our friend with these things. I got the liner out too.

edit: if this engine had a lot of time on it, I could see the cambox bearing being a real PITA to get out. I had a candle and wooden dowel on hand in case I needed to use that trick to get that bearing out.

Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 03-08-2015 at 09:29 AM.
Old 03-08-2015, 10:48 AM
  #2389  
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
I baked all of it and a little whack on a block of wood got all of the bearings out including the tiny cam drive bearing in the cambox cover. It was the easiest to get out even. Heat is our friend with these things. I got the liner out too.

edit: if this engine had a lot of time on it, I could see the cambox bearing being a real PITA to get out. I had a candle and wooden dowel on hand in case I needed to use that trick to get that bearing out.
Don't mean to intrude but, sometimes wheel bearing grease will work in the same manner and its's easier to clean.
Bob B.
Old 03-08-2015, 12:34 PM
  #2390  
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Originally Posted by PMracer
Don't mean to intrude but, sometimes wheel bearing grease will work in the same manner and its's easier to clean.
Bob B.
I could see that trick working if the bearing has shields, but I would think an open bearing wouldn't allow enough hydraulic pressure to build up enough to push the bearing out. Maybe I'm off base in my thinking here?
Old 03-08-2015, 01:43 PM
  #2391  
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
I baked all of it and a little whack on a block of wood got all of the bearings out including the tiny cam drive bearing in the cambox cover. It was the easiest to get out even. Heat is our friend with these things. I got the liner out too.

edit: if this engine had a lot of time on it, I could see the cambox bearing being a real PITA to get out. I had a candle and wooden dowel on hand in case I needed to use that trick to get that bearing out.
Nice job! Now you can rest assured your engine is healthy.

Cheers,

Bill
Old 03-08-2015, 01:59 PM
  #2392  
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Originally Posted by Ram Jet
Nice job! Now you can rest assured your engine is healthy.

Cheers,

Bill
Yeah. Peace of mind is a good thing.
Old 03-08-2015, 02:12 PM
  #2393  
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Spent more time getting one of my NIB 15-IV's broke in. This one has about an hour on it now on FAI fuel. Wouldn't run faster than 13,300 on FAI fuel. On 15% nitro it went over 16k. As you can see in the video I'm still running it pretty rich. Gonna keep it that way for awhile.
http://youtu.be/EeMkoSUrhI4
Now in Slow Motion at the 2/4 break.. http://youtu.be/6-HrFTHlbAg
Old 03-09-2015, 07:43 AM
  #2394  
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Originally Posted by PMracer
Hi NCRC,
Never got a response to this repy I sent you !! Let me know .
Thanx,
Bob B.

Sorry Bob, have not been here in a few days. I won't charge you for the crankcase, just shipping.
Unless your local, you can pick it up.
Old 03-09-2015, 09:44 AM
  #2395  
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Very interesting that the Enya 15 IV is so responsive to nitro. I wouldn't have guessed it. I'll remember that when I put mine on something.

I have a 15 III also, which is lighter. I don't know why the IV is heavier, or if it is actually more powerful.

Jim
Old 03-09-2015, 11:29 AM
  #2396  
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Originally Posted by buzzard bait
Very interesting that the Enya 15 IV is so responsive to nitro. I wouldn't have guessed it. I'll remember that when I put mine on something.

I have a 15 III also, which is lighter. I don't know why the IV is heavier, or if it is actually more powerful.

Jim
Yeah, I don't know either. I was pretty surprised to see that too. When I went to peak it on nitro, it went from 15k to 16k immediately. It sounded like it was running away but it wasn't. Backed off to about 15k was better.
Old 03-09-2015, 01:42 PM
  #2397  
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What prop gives you 16K on your Enya 15?
Old 03-09-2015, 02:58 PM
  #2398  
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Originally Posted by buzzard bait
What prop gives you 16K on your Enya 15?
7x4 MA Scimitar 15% nitro 20% castor oil fuel. Old Fox idle bar plug.
Old 03-09-2015, 04:52 PM
  #2399  
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Ah, then I'm not surprised by 16,000. I was thinking it might be an 8x4, which would make 16K very good.
Old 03-09-2015, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by NCRC
Sorry Bob, have not been here in a few days. I won't charge you for the crankcase, just shipping.
Unless your local, you can pick it up.
NCRC,
Thank you tha's very kind of you. Just let me know your time line as to when it will be available and we can then decide upon shipping or P/U.
Thanx again,
Bob B.

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