Club Enya
09-01-2016, 05:16 AM
#2601
I have zero interest in YS, I don't care for the more complicated fuel system. I'm not an idiot, just don't want to deal with it. As for Enya - I have lots of them including several 4-strokes. I'd like to know about this air leak that was spoken of. None of mine leak air - they run like clockwork every time. Not exactly a powerhouse engine, but when reliability is important, I turn to Enya. With some changes, they can be very powerful.
09-01-2016, 06:33 AM
#2602
Sorry - I should have specified better in regard to that comment. I was referring to the two stroke engines. I think their four stroke cycle engines are pretty well optimized for their configuration as manufactured. I think a hemispherical combustion chamber would help a bit as well as increasing the compression ratio and adding spark ignition. Perhaps a ringless aluminum piston and chromed aluminum cylinder would also help - very much like the Enya 36-4C diesel.
09-01-2016, 07:01 AM
#2603
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Boyzzz!
Dont mid understand !
I have 5 Enya's now, and am looking for a cream puff .80 them per now.
What did the warranty folks say about your FZ's ? I know people & have myself a couple with a TON of hours on them 15-20 yrs old, the old estimate a 91AC in my US. Did they change the diaphram, the regulator gasket, etc ? How did you sell them not running 3 times ?
The air leak ive had twice, on an 80 & 1.20 R. A simple fix, hi-temp permatex at the carb /manifold junction & the cylinder/intake manifold surfaces.
They all don't have that, but many do.
YS owners typically have several Regulation gaskets & diaphram, very inexpensive.
Too many love these engines for them to keep selling like they do despite being 'unreliable' or "maintenance nightmares". They do require a bit more maintenance, true, but once you know them it's easy.
Everyone's entitled to their own opinion but not their own facts
Dont mid understand !
I have 5 Enya's now, and am looking for a cream puff .80 them per now.
What did the warranty folks say about your FZ's ? I know people & have myself a couple with a TON of hours on them 15-20 yrs old, the old estimate a 91AC in my US. Did they change the diaphram, the regulator gasket, etc ? How did you sell them not running 3 times ?
The air leak ive had twice, on an 80 & 1.20 R. A simple fix, hi-temp permatex at the carb /manifold junction & the cylinder/intake manifold surfaces.
They all don't have that, but many do.
YS owners typically have several Regulation gaskets & diaphram, very inexpensive.
Too many love these engines for them to keep selling like they do despite being 'unreliable' or "maintenance nightmares". They do require a bit more maintenance, true, but once you know them it's easy.
Everyone's entitled to their own opinion but not their own facts
Last edited by Doug47; 09-01-2016 at 08:22 AM.
09-01-2016, 09:07 AM
#2605
Senior Member
My experience with YS is mixed, yes the added complexity makes for more maintenance, more things to go wrong you know. However my YS45 two stroke is super reliable and my YS140Limited is a first flip starter despite the previous owner letting it get all gummed up. And the 140 runs great on just 15% Heli fuel. I have worked on several of them for other flyers.
09-02-2016, 04:04 AM
#2606
In my experience gummed up engines last longer in storage than one cleaned out. I have even used castor oil as a storage oil, I believe Fox did the same. But it is a little more work to soak it in fuel or methanol when taking it out of storage.
09-03-2016, 04:56 AM
#2607
Some recent Enyas that made it into my possession from a friend. SS35BB TN Heli (ring), CX40 AAC, and an early model 6001 .45 with twin piston rings. The SS35 needs new bearings, but the other two are smooth and clean. The .45 twin ring needs to be assembled - it's been in a bag for many years (I got my FSR .25 and .60 from the same gentleman - both of those were disassembled too, and get this... Free!). The SS35 runs, but the ring isn't seated - it may have been replaced. I want to replace the bearings before running it more - I'd like to get a standard airplane head for it. The CX .40 will run, but I haven't run it yet. The .45 is still in parts.
My Enya collection now consists of:
(3) 15-IVs, SS30BB, SS35BB Heli, SS40, 40CX, 45 (#6001), 46-4C Mk I, 60-4C, and R120-4C.
My Enya collection now consists of:
(3) 15-IVs, SS30BB, SS35BB Heli, SS40, 40CX, 45 (#6001), 46-4C Mk I, 60-4C, and R120-4C.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 09-03-2016 at 05:11 AM.
10-07-2016, 08:23 AM
#2608
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Hi,
I want to inform you that I destroyed my new ENYA Quicky 09. The piston has been worn out. I used approximately 3l of fuel from a company called Morgan Fuels. The fuel type was OMEGA 5, Cool Power. This fuel let's the engine collect rust within hours after a run. See attached picture. The main problem is that the oil does not lubricate the engine. The ENYA Quicky 09 has got a lapped piston and this requires high quality oil. I researched this online an I found that SIG Mfg advertises a fuel especially made for lapped engines. This is a 25% castor fuel.
I highly recommend not to run the Enya engines on Morgan fuels. I would also not operate any other engine on their fuel, since I have also experienced the rust problem on my Saito engines.
I want to inform you that I destroyed my new ENYA Quicky 09. The piston has been worn out. I used approximately 3l of fuel from a company called Morgan Fuels. The fuel type was OMEGA 5, Cool Power. This fuel let's the engine collect rust within hours after a run. See attached picture. The main problem is that the oil does not lubricate the engine. The ENYA Quicky 09 has got a lapped piston and this requires high quality oil. I researched this online an I found that SIG Mfg advertises a fuel especially made for lapped engines. This is a 25% castor fuel.
I highly recommend not to run the Enya engines on Morgan fuels. I would also not operate any other engine on their fuel, since I have also experienced the rust problem on my Saito engines.
10-07-2016, 09:19 AM
#2609
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Morgan fuels makes some fine products. They do not in any way recklessly just sell engines that due to their nature encourage corrosion.
A lapped top end motor that runs at high rpm does require more lubrication at first especially.
Look at your owners manual for an eye opener. they require 20% lubricant, the more castor the better, and 25% castor like in that Sig break in fuel would be perfect for its 1st gallon.
Cool Power has no castor, many engines, all bigger, don't need it, and it does not contain 20 % oil nor do they claim it does. They do publicize their oil content % and type
The fuel selection was your mistake, not Enya's and not Morgans.
A lapped top end motor that runs at high rpm does require more lubrication at first especially.
Look at your owners manual for an eye opener. they require 20% lubricant, the more castor the better, and 25% castor like in that Sig break in fuel would be perfect for its 1st gallon.
Cool Power has no castor, many engines, all bigger, don't need it, and it does not contain 20 % oil nor do they claim it does. They do publicize their oil content % and type
The fuel selection was your mistake, not Enya's and not Morgans.
Last edited by Doug47; 10-07-2016 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Typo/math error
10-07-2016, 10:46 AM
#2610
I don't think any lapped iron piston engine should ever be run on fuel containing any synthetic oil. There's a reason not many manufacturers make engines with lapped Pistons anymore - the fuels sold today are nowhere near what they were decades ago.
10-07-2016, 12:35 PM
#2611
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Here is a picture of the piston..
I already sent an email to Great Hobbies to ask them to quickly supply me with SIG 25% castor fuel, as SIG recommends for lapped engines. For the other engines, I will use their 20% castor fuel.
The engines are so nice that I would hate not be able to run them. I designed a few planes around them and without these ENYA engines, my RC life would become boring.
This is a semi scale plane for the ENYA 15CX and will be published in the MFI magazine soon (http://www.modellflug-international.com), includign free download plans:
and this is my new glider for the Quicky 09...that just died.
I also have the SS30 Sport and several designs for it in development.
I have to revise the engine tests for the magazine to warn readers of this fuel and to give recommendations to use castor only fuel.
I already sent an email to Great Hobbies to ask them to quickly supply me with SIG 25% castor fuel, as SIG recommends for lapped engines. For the other engines, I will use their 20% castor fuel.
The engines are so nice that I would hate not be able to run them. I designed a few planes around them and without these ENYA engines, my RC life would become boring.
This is a semi scale plane for the ENYA 15CX and will be published in the MFI magazine soon (http://www.modellflug-international.com), includign free download plans:
and this is my new glider for the Quicky 09...that just died.
I also have the SS30 Sport and several designs for it in development.
I have to revise the engine tests for the magazine to warn readers of this fuel and to give recommendations to use castor only fuel.
10-08-2016, 04:26 AM
#2612
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pipek,
Are those eroded pits in the pic of the piston? Are they from the area of the exhaust port? Wear marks along the sides of piston look slight. How was it running before tear-down? In your earlier pic I dont see strong evidence of rust on the bearing. Is it just not showing in the pic?
Are those eroded pits in the pic of the piston? Are they from the area of the exhaust port? Wear marks along the sides of piston look slight. How was it running before tear-down? In your earlier pic I dont see strong evidence of rust on the bearing. Is it just not showing in the pic?
Last edited by dangtaylor; 10-09-2016 at 09:02 AM. Reason: sorry about misspelling OP's name
10-09-2016, 03:06 AM
#2613
In a pinch, where I could not obtain proper Castor Oil based fuels, I've used for example, one gallon Wildcat 15% nitro and added Castor to it. With 12 oz. Byron's Castor bumped up oil content to 23% with half as Castor. This is roughly equivalent to Sig Champion 20% with half Castor. With 16 oz. Klotz Racing Castor bumped oil content to 25% with 14% as Castor. I've been using these combinations with my small Enyas and my McCoy .35 Red Heads and so far haven't run into problems.
My hunch that your rust problem comes from storing the engine between runs without an after run oil. The residual unburnt fuel alcohol base remaining wicks water, when combined with combustion residue is acidic. The synthetic oil content being as low as it is provides little barrier against rust allowing air water moisture condensation entering from the exhaust side and carburetor inlet to cause rust on that side of the Mehanite iron piston and steel crankshaft back. Thus, a good shot of after run oil would help. Castor oil on the other hand persists and does a better job of coating.
If the engine still runs even though low compression, the seal can be built up again with a 100% Castor oil based fuel, with Castor varnish build up on the piston and cylinder surfaces. I've got an old Enya .15-III TV with hardly any compression, but once started runs as strong as new. With the proper fuel, you can probably continue to run your .09 as-is if it will start.
shtterman on E-Bay has Enya replacement parts, check with him for a replacement piston & cylinder set for your .09 engine.
My hunch that your rust problem comes from storing the engine between runs without an after run oil. The residual unburnt fuel alcohol base remaining wicks water, when combined with combustion residue is acidic. The synthetic oil content being as low as it is provides little barrier against rust allowing air water moisture condensation entering from the exhaust side and carburetor inlet to cause rust on that side of the Mehanite iron piston and steel crankshaft back. Thus, a good shot of after run oil would help. Castor oil on the other hand persists and does a better job of coating.
If the engine still runs even though low compression, the seal can be built up again with a 100% Castor oil based fuel, with Castor varnish build up on the piston and cylinder surfaces. I've got an old Enya .15-III TV with hardly any compression, but once started runs as strong as new. With the proper fuel, you can probably continue to run your .09 as-is if it will start.
shtterman on E-Bay has Enya replacement parts, check with him for a replacement piston & cylinder set for your .09 engine.
Last edited by GallopingGhostler; 10-09-2016 at 03:23 AM.
10-09-2016, 03:39 AM
#2614
Besides the wrong fuel used, the break-in techniques were a bit 'off'. Both may have contributed to the demise of the .09. Here are his engine running videos for break-in: http://www.plane-crazy.de/
I am one of those 'purists' or sorts when it comes to lapped engines - I leave nothing to chance with iron piston engines. They were designed when castor was king and for good reason. Meehanite is a porous metal and because of this you want the oil to wick into the metal to keep it lubricated. Because ferrous engines run a higher risk of going metal-to-metal, the castor oil is better suited because it has a much better affinity for metal that the synthetics do not. Add in the castor varnish that develops to help buffer the ferrous piston from the ferrous liner and it becomes the "perfect package" in my eyes. Some guys have used synthetic oil in a blend with a high oil content in these engines with good results - I don't mean to say that method will fail.. Just that it would be better for the operator to do a bit more homework on what the engine needs and obtain that before rushing into running the engine and consequently ruining it. That engine might be saved if ran on a straight castor fuel of 25% content, but if the piston excessively word due to poor break-in, it would likely be down on power.
Ive adopted the ferrous break-in technique found here: http://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/c...n.php?cat_id=3 click on "ferrous diesel break-in" on the left side of the page. The top of the link talks about the metallurgy and what happens when a ferrous engine breaks in - this is really useful information for people unfamiliar with ferrous engines. After reading that, scroll down the page to where it talks about ferrous glow plug engine break-in.
There is good information on the main link page about ABC engine break-in as well as a lot of other great information about model engines.
I didnt post this to directly contradict anyone - I'm sure a lot of guys know I'm fairly biased with a lot of my modeling habits, but my methodology is: old school (castor) worked for decades before these newer synthetic oils came to be and the engines were designed for it... So why not use what it was designed for?
Okay, I'm off the soapbox now.
I am one of those 'purists' or sorts when it comes to lapped engines - I leave nothing to chance with iron piston engines. They were designed when castor was king and for good reason. Meehanite is a porous metal and because of this you want the oil to wick into the metal to keep it lubricated. Because ferrous engines run a higher risk of going metal-to-metal, the castor oil is better suited because it has a much better affinity for metal that the synthetics do not. Add in the castor varnish that develops to help buffer the ferrous piston from the ferrous liner and it becomes the "perfect package" in my eyes. Some guys have used synthetic oil in a blend with a high oil content in these engines with good results - I don't mean to say that method will fail.. Just that it would be better for the operator to do a bit more homework on what the engine needs and obtain that before rushing into running the engine and consequently ruining it. That engine might be saved if ran on a straight castor fuel of 25% content, but if the piston excessively word due to poor break-in, it would likely be down on power.
Ive adopted the ferrous break-in technique found here: http://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/c...n.php?cat_id=3 click on "ferrous diesel break-in" on the left side of the page. The top of the link talks about the metallurgy and what happens when a ferrous engine breaks in - this is really useful information for people unfamiliar with ferrous engines. After reading that, scroll down the page to where it talks about ferrous glow plug engine break-in.
There is good information on the main link page about ABC engine break-in as well as a lot of other great information about model engines.
I didnt post this to directly contradict anyone - I'm sure a lot of guys know I'm fairly biased with a lot of my modeling habits, but my methodology is: old school (castor) worked for decades before these newer synthetic oils came to be and the engines were designed for it... So why not use what it was designed for?
Okay, I'm off the soapbox now.
10-09-2016, 07:17 AM
#2616
I very much like the heat cycling method so far. Much less time consuming and far more methodical than the other methods I've used. The other trick is to use oily fuel to break-in indeed. No less than 25% oil is a must for long engine life.
10-20-2016, 03:24 AM
#2617
Application for membership..!
Howdy, this is my 5th or so Enya engine over the years and so far my "Enya Favourite" engine. In an attempt to get rid of/minimize nitro I tried to increase CR from some 8:1 up to 11.5:1 but that was a BIG MISTAKE..
.! It would run strongly with 0% nitro but had a nasty habit of throwing props despite my added steel pins on the prop driver. So I was forced to back off quite a bit with addition of head shims and have now a happy compromise with a CR about 9:1 and 5% nitro. Runs strongly static at 11.100rpm with a 11x71/2 prop and a rock steady 2500 rpm idle. And yes, I did change the 5.7mm air bleed Enya carb into a Saito 6.2mm venturi twin needle carb.
Got my usual "skeleton treatment" to minimise vibrations. A super engine earning its day in a Sig Bipe...
..!
.! It would run strongly with 0% nitro but had a nasty habit of throwing props despite my added steel pins on the prop driver. So I was forced to back off quite a bit with addition of head shims and have now a happy compromise with a CR about 9:1 and 5% nitro. Runs strongly static at 11.100rpm with a 11x71/2 prop and a rock steady 2500 rpm idle. And yes, I did change the 5.7mm air bleed Enya carb into a Saito 6.2mm venturi twin needle carb.Got my usual "skeleton treatment" to minimise vibrations. A super engine earning its day in a Sig Bipe...
..!
10-20-2016, 05:53 AM
#2620
Even with the bigger carb and weight loss, it doesn't make any more power than a stock engine... Is the weight loss surgery solely to lower the vibration/reciprocating weight? Why the bigger carb?
The work looks nice on the piston, but perhaps the combustion chamber could use some smoothing?
I get 11,700rpm with my stock (airbleed carb) 60-4C on a 11x7 APC and 10% nitro. The lack of a muffler (vented fuel tank) makes the idle require being a bit rich for good throttling, but it's a good runner. Idles down to 2,300-2,400.
The work looks nice on the piston, but perhaps the combustion chamber could use some smoothing?
I get 11,700rpm with my stock (airbleed carb) 60-4C on a 11x7 APC and 10% nitro. The lack of a muffler (vented fuel tank) makes the idle require being a bit rich for good throttling, but it's a good runner. Idles down to 2,300-2,400.
10-20-2016, 07:36 AM
#2622
. I won't sell mine and I have quite a few. I might sell a couple of my Enya .15s... I have 4 now and a 5th one on the way. I might build something and put three of the .15s on it. Two engines sound great, three should sound better yet. I need to get my twin ringed .45 put together and test run. Should make another good little history lesson for me.
10-20-2016, 09:10 AM
#2623
Sig does not sell all castor fuel in anything but gallons, which means huge shipping cost.
I buy quarts of Sig Champion 5% and add some castor to it for my old engines.
Jim
I buy quarts of Sig Champion 5% and add some castor to it for my old engines.
Jim