Aaron L.

I'm bummed that I just missed that one. That was a good deal. Would like to pick up a good .80/.90/.120/R120/R155 Enya four stroke without having to pay an eBay price for it. Patience will pay off. It's a want rather than a need...

Would like to land a VT240, but that would take an enormous amount of luck (or way more $ than I wanna spend).

Also on the hunt for an .80X.

buzzard bait

Thanks, I forgot about Red Max after they stopped selling diesel fuel, but I see they still sell glow, any way you want it.

Jim

1QwkSport2.5r

I wish I was willing to part with some of mine - I have a 46, 60, and R120 4-cycles and recently got a SS40, SS35 Heli, and a 40CX among others. The R120 is a powerhouse!

I want to find a 21CX for my little 31" mono hull boat.

GallopingGhostler

Sharps motorcycle dealer in Amarillo sells 1 quart bottles of Klotz Racing Castor Oil. I mix that with off-the-shelf RC fuel for my older engines, gives me about 25% oil with over 50% as Castor.

canardlover

1)my main objective with the "surgery" was to minimize nitro and vibrations
2) my prop was slightly misstated - I got 11.100/2500 with a 11 x 7 3/4 Kavan prop.
3) Yes, power is not markedly increased when using 5% nitro as compared to 10-15% nitro in a stock engine
4) Saito carb was rather chosen for its twin "needle" function (and I happened to have a few lying around)
5) I´m not yet through with my "surgery" on this engine, my aim is to create a more "hemi-like" combustion chamber and to further increase compression and lower nitro content.
6) OK, promise to polish the head inner surface better next time.....!

This is my first major surgery with an 4C engine having a "wedge-shaped" head rather that the "hemi-heds" om Saito:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...-saito-4s.html
...and the result is still mixed.........although my Enya certainly purrs like a kitten now..

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Edit by back spacing the whole thing until it's gone then type "Please Delete" and it will be deleted by a Moderator.

GallopingGhostler

canardlover, another option is you could hit the black triangle with "!" inside it (report post) to the lower left of the message, explain briefly why (duplicate post) and admin will delete.

1QwkSport2.5r

I haven't found more than a 200-300rpm gain for every 5% nitro I add to the fuel in many of the engines I've run. Some engines have a marked effect from more nitro, but they are few. The 60-4C is not a huge responder to nitro. I typically use 5% nitro in them as well though they seem to idle a little better and transition a bit cleaner with a touch more nitro.

Whatever the case, I'd expect with such a weight loss, it ought to *at least* spool up a fair bit quicker even it if doesn't make more power. FWIW, Downunder did some work on a 2-stroke Enya some time to and found the optimum compression ratio for FAI 80/20 fuel to be in the realm of 12.8:1-13.2:1 IIRC - so if 5% nitro is what you intend to run, you should probably shoot for somewhere in the 10:1-11:1 CR area..

Jacob Wetterling (not sure if his families' genealogy, but he was abducted near his home in 1989 and only until very recently did they find out that he'd died the night he was abducted and buried not far from his home. The statute of limitations was up, so the murderer couldn't get tried for the muffler or kidnapping. The sick ******* should burn at the stake.

Nitrovein

That's no wedge head, that's a bathtub head, and it ain't much you can do about that. You can't make it to another head type without extensive modifications.
Your modifications are going in two directions at the same time also, you might wanna read up on what you're doing.

What balancing factor have you used for the crank?

canardlover

Thanks George and Dave, accidental duplication should be fixed soon../canardlover

Sport_Pilot

It was a wedge head, not sure if he helped it any as he cut away the squish area which would have helped atomize the fuel mixture.

canardlover

Well, yes Sport_Pilot ,but the original "squish band" was way too deep in the stock head to give any appreciable "squish band effect". In that respect I think "bathtub" is a fitting term as suggested by Nitrovein. Furthermore I now obtain a new squish band area depending on the exact thickness and width of my head shim. My other altenative to increase CR would be to fabricate a longer conrod. Did that on one Saito.50 as described in the cited Saito thread above. In there are also the answers to Nitrovein and 1QwkSport2.5R..../cheers

Nitrovein

I didn't find answers when going through that thread, point out which "#" if you don't wont to write it again.

And now I definitely think you should read up on what your doing, especially when you don't mind experimenting and seem to have machines to simplify some work, theoretical knowledge should help you bring things together.

Sport_Pilot

I think the idea of a wedge squish band is to push a wave of mixture toward the spark or glow plug. Same with a hemi head which is why the squish band is a circle in a hemi. I tried to research this many years ago well before the web, and found not much published on this. It seems to defy calculations for proper squish band and is either copied from successful designs or by trial and error. But that was before the web and it may be easier to find this information now.

Nitrovein

The old type of hemi heads didn't have any squish, that's why they where terrible on fuel and needed more advance in the ignition.
They have made hemi heads with squish pads that works better.
You can look at the wedge heads on V8 and see how they have changed over the years, the development seems never ending.
Today they use CFD for 4 stroke head design, it's easy to do early in the development, and the good part is that it starts to be available for consumer. For 2 strokes it's much easier.

canardlover

Balance is treated in post #107 at the very end.

canardlover

Squish bands of 0.5 to 0.7mm seems to work well in Saitos as seen from the discussion with "downunder" in posts #77 to #81. So that is what I opt for in the Enya too. Presently I have a 0.95mm shim in it which we all think is too much for effective squish band effect. Now after I have removed more material from the "bathtub/wedge" (whatever) head to again lower CR I envision to put in my 0.5mm shim again and hope the prop will stay in place..!

Nitrovein

It said nothing about what I asked there.
But never mind, I guess you're just not the theoretical type of person. One can have fun even in darkness, sort of speak...

Good luck with your adventures!

canardlover

Experts seem to agree that a balance factor of 65% is to be aimed at. As seen from post #107 it is not possible to come even close to that by only removing weight from the reciprocating parts. Remains the possibility to add wolfram to the counterweight but that is certainly not easy. I have access to a wolfram wire but drilling the correct size hole in a Saito or Enya crank counterbalance has made me hesitate so far. Still on my "to do list" though...!

Nitrovein

What expert recommends 65% for this type of engine?

canardlover

I´m still haunted by your 11.700 rpm on the APC 11x7 so I attempted today to match that. Mounted the 0.5 mm shim which in combination with the slightly recessed piston crown some (0.3mm below the liner surface-see pic) should produce a partial squish band of approx. 0.8mm.
With a RAM 11x7 prop and muffler removed I got a steady 11.300rpm on 5% nitro and a steady 11.100 on 0% nitro confirming your figures quoted. Well, I will leave the engine as is for now and contemplate my next move to catch you. It may even take another carb switch to do it......!!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I guess I'm of the old "If it ain't broke don't fix it" school, why all this mania about modifying heads and adding spacers to a perfectly good running engines for such a small gain in RPM? Seems to be it would be better if the engine is not producing enough power for the airplane its on to just switch it out and use the current engine on something else? I still believe Enya knew what they were doing when they designed it and it will run longer and more reliably left original.

1QwkSport2.5r

My Enya 60-4C is bone stock, about 3 gallons through it. What's my secret? Simple fuel. Nitro, methanol, and castor. Enya 3 or Fox idle bar glow plugs are the ticket. No other glow plug has given better performance in my Enya 4-cycles. You might see a few more peak rpm using a fuel with synthetic oil, but not much. I haven't even put a bowman ring in my .60 yet which I have a spare of.

My Mk I 46-4C turned 13,350 on a 10x6APC on 5% nitro after about 45 minutes on the bench. Not sure if that's great or not - and I know it's a small prop. I wouldn't fly it with that prop. Max rpm for the .46 is 14,000rpm FWIW.

Whats odd odd is most of the time, I get lower rpm figures than folks do further south or west (close to sea level). I'm about 850 feet ASL.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Is Fox still making glow plugs or did they go the way of the Fox Engines?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Tower shows most things Fox as being discontinued. If I can locate some Miracle plugs I'll grab them.