downunder

Hi Amnon,
It's best to use the .com site because I haven't been able to update the .net site for a couple of years. The main idea of the web site is to preserve as many of the old tests as possible before they get lost to time.
For 60 size Enyas, probably the best is the old 60X, especially either the X III or X IV which are AAC and hugely powerful but relatively heavy. Next would be the later 61CXR (side exhaust) or 61CXLR (rear exhaust). These are both ringed but use a special ABN liner which is NOT the same as OS uses. There's also the even later red headed 61CXR and CXLR which is ABC but I've had problems with their ABC because of almost zero compression when hot so hand starting was impossible, even with the replacement piston/liner they sent me (no charge). A big advantage of the 61's compared to the 60X is that they are much lighter. I can't really comment on the later 45's though because I've had no experience with them.

Bambook7

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downunder!

First - thanks a bunch! Both for the comment about the .com site, and off course the knowledge about the engines.
About the .40-.45 capacities - I guess you do know something about the oldies..?

Thanks again & have a great day

Stickslammer

My first engine to go in my SIG LT 40 (and a Futaba Skysport 4 to complete the set), back in 1995. All on the recommendation of the guys at the LHS for my first serious venture into R/C flying.
Got a new one after obliterating it. (Just under the 1 year crash protection)
I`m thinking of using it to power a Mustang I would like to get from Tower.

R/C Phile

Hi guys, I haven't posted on "Club Enya" in a while.
Here's what I know about Enya's alphabet soup on Carbs:

T.V. = Throttle Valve, vintage style air bleed carb. This one definitely needs a piece of fuel tubing on the needle to avoid air leaks, very precise and consistent once that's done
SNV= Safety Needle Valve. Later version of the T.V. With needle angled away from the prop. Usually has a larger throat than older TV for a given engine size, less prone to leaking, still does best sealed with fuel tubing.
TN = Twin needle, it's a little jewel of a carb. The latest version has a rubber booth over the barrel on the throttle lever side to make sure it's completely sealed.

Some folks poo poo the air bleed designs, I've had very good luck with them. You gotta understand how the low speed air bleed works: Opposite of a traditional needle, the more you open it the more air comes in, leaning out the mixture. Seems clear and simple but somehow it escapes a surprising amount of "experienced experts". Also, once it's set: Leave it alone. I went over 20 years of on-and-off flying on my SS40 without ever touching it. I put well over 250 flights on my .09 without touching either. Perfect Idle, easy starts, smooth transitions, every flight. Works just fine for sport flying.

GallopingGhostler

Yes, very simple and effective.

I have one model of engine that doesn't even have an air bleed, the 1966 OS Max .10R/C. It has such a tick over idle that I could take a long glide and it would ramp up again to full throttle without balking. It is such a good engine that I have 3. Only weighing 3 oz (w/o muffler), is a good upgrade for that marginally powered .049 plane.

It was only outdone by the air bleed carb 1966 Enya .09-III TV, which is a touch more powerful. I've got 4 of those. Peter Chinn then stated that the only other production engine that outdid the Enya .09-III TV was the Cox .09 Tee Dee.

R/C Phile

Agreed. The .09 is light and it definitely punches above its weight. Here's a video of a IV modified with an SNV carb and single ball race (From the car version) Torque Rolling..


- R/C Phile

FlyerInOKC

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I got an offer yesterday to trade a used OS .40 FP R/C with muffler for this little gem. Yes the top of the piston is as shiny as the day it left the plant! What do you think?

Stickslammer

Nice! Do you have any idea what you want to put it on?

FlyerInOKC

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I have a couple of Fun Scale WWI designs from the last 60s to early 70s that would be good candidates. I also have an Ace R/C Simple Series Staggerwing it could power as well. Its just a matter of picking the winner!

Here is a question for Downunder and any others in the know. I have been looking for an engine tests/reviews of the SS15 but find everything but the .15 size SS series listed any ideas why I can't find anything? Was this engine just overlooked or was the production run just that short?

buzzard bait

I'm puzzled by it too. It's case is labelled on one side with 3304, same as the .15 IV, and it looks just like it. I'm guessing it's Schneurle ported instead of cross flow, but otherwise the same. Someone reported it being hard to break in when new, because the compression was so high; IIRC it was a little like an overcompressed diesel at first. I'd use low nitro, like 5% if you've got it, and be careful with the choke/prime. It was a strong and good running engine once broken in. I'd love to hear if anyone knows more about it. Jim

FlyerInOKC

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Jim, you are correct you do see Model 3304 on the left side picture. Starting it should be a problem I have an electric starter and a good test stand I can mount to to a Workmate.The picture below was taken when I received the stand new. The stand wasn't cheap but it will handle anything I can throw at 2 Cycle glow, 4 cycle glow, Gas, spark ignition, even multi cylinder engines.

Mike

Telemaster Sales UK

I'm going to replace my OS 40 with an Enya 45 in my Reserve Trainer just to give it a bit more umph!

GallopingGhostler

Nice video, R/C Phile. Even the earlier 1966 version Enya .09-III TV with a wood Top Flite 7x6 prop and Tatone 09-19 Peacepipe muffler is a little powerhouse in its own right, powered my 40" (1015mm) span Hobby Shack Cessna 180 foamy with authority, a nice upgrade over the Cox .049 Black Widow I had on it previously.

I've received comments on its sound by those who are only familiar with the higher pitched whine of a Schneurle engine on a more restrictive muffler.

Some folk make the mistake of trying to prop these cross scavenge engines like they were Schneurle then are disappointed with the power. They obtain max HP at a lower RPM, so a larger diameter or wider pitched prop is the trick. I flew the same plane with an APC 7x3 prop, it flew very .049 like. My trial confirmed what Peter Chinn, the Enya engine test guru commented back in a 1966 model magazine. There was no point in propping the engine with anything smaller than a 7x4 prop because it didn't take advantage of the engine's HP curve.

I see some boasting of high static RPM's on a test stand engine, not sure the point because once in the air, the unloaded prop being outside the power band doesn't develop the desired thrust. Gives helpful gawkers a reason to chime in, "Buy an OS and that will solve your problem!" when engine isn't performing to expectations. (I say this facetiously. )

I'm wondering if because of the high compression Enya was targeting the European market, where nitro in some places is unobtanium. Simple solution is to add head gaskets as shims to decrease compression. I gather that the engines continued to be sold in other markets, when MRC, major US distributor discontinued importation in US. The .15-SS does seem to be a nice engine in its own right.

I found the early 1960's Enya .15-III TV no slouch either, powered my Ringmaster Jr. (throttle wired wide open) on a Masters 8x6 provided same lap speeds as my OS Max .15 FP on a Masters 8x4. Plus, the Enya will crack from a rich 2 cycle burble to lean 2 cycle when entering stunts, which makes it a decent CL engine.

FlyerInOKC

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Another interesting bit of information the Enya manual/brochure in the box does NOT list the SS15 on the specifications chart just the 15-IV TV. However the case of the pictured 15-IV TV very different and the 15-IV TV carb has the needle valve on the opposite side. The case of my SS15 looks like the CX11 and CX21 car engines pictured (minus the car head of course) but with the little angled reinforcement coming down from the center of the cylinder area to the mounting lug on each side as pictured on the SS25BB. There is no rectangular extension/bump on the front of the cylinder case as shown on the SS25BB which I believe to be for porting. The CX11 and CX-21 car and the CX11 airplane are listed as Schnuerle ported engines. None of the engines pictured shown in the manual/brochure has the angled extension on the needle valve. I really like this safety modification. I will need to dig out my NIB .46 4C Type II and see what it's manual/brochure lists. Unfortunately I think don't Enya always undated their literature like they should have.

FlyerInOKC

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Any recommendations on a glowplugs for the SS15 I am likely to find at the LHS?

I checked, the red cover Enya Brochure in my .46 4C Type II is exactly the same. Both boxes say Altech Marketing N.J. the 4 cycle's box has the red top with text only as the SS15 box has an illustration of a 2 cycle engine with not text on it with the big gold warranty sticker. The 4 cycle has 5 different brochures and a set of Enya stickers w a set of adjustment tools.

GallopingGhostler

My 1970's vintage MRC (Model Engine Rectifier Corp) brochure that came with my then new Enya .35-V TV shows then new Scheurles in .11, .19, .21, 25, .40, .45 and .60, but no .15. Regarding your brochure, I think that this may be because Altech (MRC) produced that brochure, not Enya, and they may have simply used up stock toward the end instead of updating it. (IMO, other engines were taking over in popularity possibly making Enya less profitable in US.) Of course, this is my guess and not to be taken as fact. The engine is listed on Enya Japan's website http://www.enya-engine.com/ListAP2CYL_E.html

FlyerInOKC

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Thanks for posting! I like having the specs and the parts list too!

GallopingGhostler

You are welcome, FlyerInOKC. Interestingly enough, my Fox .25R/C cross scavenge is listed with the same HP as your Enya SS15. The nice thing about the current Japan - US exchange rate, is one only needs to insert a decimal point to the Yen value and it will be close enough to the US Dollar for budgeting parts. (Actually now $1 US = ¥109 JP.)

Telemaster Sales UK

I spent a lot of the day aeromodelling yesterday so will have to punish myself by cleaning house, gardening and having a haircut today!

Last night I replaced the engine in my ARTF Seagull Boomerang II Trainer. The old OS 40 FSR was a bit marginal so I decided to replace it with an Enya 45. However, when I opened the box in which the 45 was stored, I saw that I also had an Enya 50 with a Q Silencer so decided to fit that instead. The engine has a brass helicoil in the head for the glowplug. Is that standard or has some previous owner stripped the thread and made a repair? I don't recall running it before and I certainly haven't photographed it running on the bench but I plan to test it tomorrow.

Incidentally if anyone does a fair bit of tuition and is looking for an ARTF trainer, may I recommend the Boomerang. Its semi-symmetrical aerofoil enables you to fly it in a stiff breeze. The latest version, the Boomerang II, features a fully sheeted wing which makes it very tough albeit at the expense of a little extra weight. All this for 100€ ($122US.)

R/C Phile

Thanks @GallopingGhostler I was laser focused on getting lowest weigh on the plane / max thrust to accomplish the torque roll. To accomplish the max vertical power I I needed both high(ish) RPM's and as large a prop as I could swing. I tried everything between 7X4 and 9X3 (I believe). Yes, "odd size" props, my best combo is a "Combat" MAS 8x3. Using 15% nitro castor blend fuel (Augmented with 10% Klotz), a (ported) Precison Aero Products tongue muffler, and a colder : MC8 plug It peaked at about 15,350 RPMs on the ground and that was the magic number for the torque roll.

Why the Klotz in a Castor blend fuel? Because I was using Morgan Fuel pink stuff and after many flights and experiments I concluded that it didn't have enough castor in it. The Klotz made it run cooler and allowed me to safely lean it down a couple more clicks / achieve the goal.

GallopingGhostler

You are welcome, R/C Phile. At the time, the Masters 8x3 props were sold out, I happened upon a dozen NOS Top Flite 7x6 woods for a decent price, so I opted for that. I did find something interesting with my 1966 Enya .09-III TV, it was much easier to hand start using wood props and needle was more responsive.

Nowadays, many are recommending synthetic with Castor, reason being it helps to prevent excessive Castor varnish build up in engines. I remember back in the 1970's and '80s steel wooling my Cox .049 cylinders occasionally to remove this varnish build up, restoring RPM. Back then, all Castor fuel was very common.

Because all Castor fuel and higher content Castor fuel is hard to obtain, I've been adding a pint of Klotz Benol Racing Castor to 15% standard R/C fuel for my legacy engines.

Of course if one has an older well worn iron piston in a steel sleeve engine (or one with a loose fitting piston), the varnish build up helps maintain compression; use of synthetic oil will strip the varnish and should not be used. It is an old trick by CL fliers to keep that well worn legacy engine flying.

FlyerInOKC

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That says a lot about the Enya if the numbers are accurate!

Telemaster, another SS makes a surprise visit I see! For your information my little .15 also has a brass insert for the glowplug so I would say your head is stock. Nice hing about a new engine its easy to see the bright new brass in the hole. About all the LHS seems to have in stock in the way of glowplugs is OS brand how does a No. 8 sound? I'll probably see if I can't pick up some 5% for break in. I have a NIB Super Tigre S3000 and from what I have heard the big ST prefer low or no Nitro too.

R/C Phile

Agreed GallopingGhostler, The Klotz Benol is what I use as well. The .09 ran significantly cooler with that added ( I checked the head temp with an infrared pyrometer). It also has a brand new cylinder / Piston setup along with the new ball bearing housing (The old cyl / piston was worn out from ingesting grit in my field and running hard without enough castor / Benol) and matching crankshaft. Believe or not I actually broke the original crankshaft, not from a crash but from old age and flying too much "3D" with the torque rolls and the cute stuff I'm able to do with high throws and flaperon mixing on the ailerons. (It's amazing ow much stress the gyroscopic force put on the prop / crank in hard maneuvers, with my electric foamie I can actually hear the prop flex)

Anyway, the crankshaft literally flew off the nose of the plane along with the propeller one day.. quite the spectacle !

I get most of my parts and Enya engines from Bob Brooks in Florida (Shtterman / The control line store on ebay) He's the best there is on Enya parts short of ordering straight from Ken Enya in Japan (Which I still do on occasion).

-Francois Rivard

GallopingGhostler

Since Castor has a higher flash point than synth, it doesn't combust as readily; droplets in the exhaust will actually carry away heat.

Haven't had such a separation yet, but then I don't do trick (3D) flying. Looking at the historic setting of the engine, it was developed and marketed in 1966, when the most aggressive R/C available for small planes was Galloping Ghost. A single actuator / servo was tasked to do multiple functions - rudder, elevator and throttle. Flown single channel rudder only, most aggressive maneuvers would be consecutive barrel rolls, loops, Cuban Eight.

Today's 3D flying reminds me of 70 years ago in WW2, what they called precision bombing then is now called carpet bombing. Precision is relative to the time period.

I've communicated with Shtterman, just haven't had a need yet to order from him, but so far he is a good source of Enya parts in US and shipping is reasonable. Been kicking around upgrading a few of my TV's (throttle valves) to CL venturi and NVA's, when I'm ready will order then.

PMracer

Does anyone know the dimensions of the "KICK BACK SCREWS" that i've seen mentioned in directions on the R120-4c engine.
I am pretty sure they are 3mm but don't know what configuration the screw actually is. I.E. set screw, hex head or socket head ??
Help appreciated.
Bob B.