Club Enya
07-06-2018, 05:01 AM
#2876
Wow, well obviously all 15x8 props are not created equal! According to Clarence Lee's review the 120R made 8700 on a Zinger 15x8, and the 15x6 two blade looked like the right prop, which would make the 15x6 three blade a somewhat heavy load...Enya R120-4C
and off idle as the barrel closes off the airbleed above half throttle.
My R120 spits a ton of fuel from the carb on heady loading props. Even a 14x6 APC made a royal mess. In the air it might be better, but I wouldn’t be using a heavier prop than that on an Enya.
07-06-2018, 06:39 AM
#2877
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R120
Thanks guys. I'll pull the carb tonight and clean it up. Looks pretty clean on the outside, but it's not hard to get the carb off and have a look. Do you guys think the 15 x 6 three blade is too much prop for this motor?
07-06-2018, 06:42 AM
#2878
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R120
By the way, I've read the specs on the Cool Power 10% nitro. It says it has around 17% oil. Not castor, but a blend. I guess I should have specified that. That's right from their website.
07-06-2018, 07:12 AM
#2880
IMO - a 15x6 3-blade is too much load.
07-06-2018, 08:25 AM
#2881
09-10-2018, 07:35 PM
#2883
Just a quick little Enya question for those here regarding an Enya engine of mine. I acquired an old Enya .09 III control line engine. This is the one with the opposite side exhaust. Anyways, when I got it the needle and spray bar assembly was loose and after cleaning it, I reassembled it with the needle assembly on the right side of the engine, opposite the exhaust. I was just thinking that it should always go to the opposite side of the exhaust, and now someone is saying I should switch the assembly to the other side, which would put my hand directly in the exhaust to tune. It does run and start good now and I see no reason to switch, unless someone can tell me if there is a definite reason to. Thank you.
09-10-2018, 08:14 PM
#2885
You're the one adjusting it, I'd do what is comfortable and makes sense, NEW222. On pancake (sideways) mounted engines on say profile CL models, some have mounted the engine on the inboard left side, so the exhaust is pointed downward. Works fine in that orientation, about only caveat may be a little more tip weight to compensate.
10-04-2018, 06:17 AM
#2887
Guys, I just purchased a lot of fiber filled engine mounts and have more than I need. Most are for 2 cycle engines but I do have a few for the Enya .46 and .53 4 cycle engines. Most are Dave Brown but I also have some Hayes, Diamond Motorsport, World Model, Hornet, and AeroSpere. If you have a need/want drop me a PM and we'll see what we can do.
Mike
Mike
12-27-2018, 09:40 AM
#2888
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Hi all,
Just bought new bearings for an Enya 120-4C and the new bearings are shielded where the old ones only had a shield/seal on the front of the front bearing. Should I just pop off the seals or send them back and get the right ones?
Thanks,
Bart
Just bought new bearings for an Enya 120-4C and the new bearings are shielded where the old ones only had a shield/seal on the front of the front bearing. Should I just pop off the seals or send them back and get the right ones?
Thanks,
Bart
12-28-2018, 03:30 AM
#2890
All of the bearings in an Enya 4-stroke should have all shields removed except the front bearing which should have the shield facing front as mentioned. However the engine will run and perform fine if NO shields are in place.
Keep in mind there are 4 bearings to replace in an Enya 4-stroke. The rear cam drive bearing can be a bugger.
Keep in mind there are 4 bearings to replace in an Enya 4-stroke. The rear cam drive bearing can be a bugger.
12-28-2018, 10:15 PM
#2892
Just a quick little Enya question for those here regarding an Enya engine of mine. I acquired an old Enya .09 III control line engine. This is the one with the opposite side exhaust. Anyways, when I got it the needle and spray bar assembly was loose and after cleaning it, I reassembled it with the needle assembly on the right side of the engine, opposite the exhaust. I was just thinking that it should always go to the opposite side of the exhaust, and now someone is saying I should switch the assembly to the other side, which would put my hand directly in the exhaust to tune. It does run and start good now and I see no reason to switch, unless someone can tell me if there is a definite reason to. Thank you.
I solved a problem on my 30" OK Models Pilot Cessna 177 by mounting the engine upside down, which put the exhaust on the outboard side (although in this case it could have been exhaust toward inside on an upright engine, but it looked so cool having a clean cabin nose).
12-29-2018, 05:57 AM
#2893
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thanks for the replies guys. the old bearings had steel cages for the bearings and the new ones have plastic under the shields which is why I asked if it's still appropriate to remove the shields although they pop out very easily.
I'll just remove the shields and see how things go, worst that can happen is we see some wear and have to disassemble it again.
thanks
I'll just remove the shields and see how things go, worst that can happen is we see some wear and have to disassemble it again.
thanks
01-02-2019, 04:08 AM
#2895
Shields and seals are two different features. Shields are usually metal and do not fully "seal" the bearing. They still allow oil and gasses to pass through the bearing but prevent larger elements from entering.
Seals are usually rubber or plastic, they do make contact with the inner race and form a fairly good seal. These bearings are lubed at assembly and that lube can last a very long time, rust free. Most use only a single seal on the front bearing, outer side. I have seen engines where two seals were used on the front bearing and the bearings did last for a few years use, were totally rust-free.
The rear bearing should not be sealed but I often run shielded bearings on the rear with perfectly fine results. Some manufacturers supply engines from new with shielded rear bearings.
Seals are usually rubber or plastic, they do make contact with the inner race and form a fairly good seal. These bearings are lubed at assembly and that lube can last a very long time, rust free. Most use only a single seal on the front bearing, outer side. I have seen engines where two seals were used on the front bearing and the bearings did last for a few years use, were totally rust-free.
The rear bearing should not be sealed but I often run shielded bearings on the rear with perfectly fine results. Some manufacturers supply engines from new with shielded rear bearings.
01-02-2019, 05:58 AM
#2896
Rubber sealed bearings will leak or allow oil to seep in as well. I’ve used the rubber sealed and metal shielded bearings interchangeably for years without issue. On higher rpm engines, it is advised to remove the shields/seals and remove the grease so oil can get to the bearings. Oil lubricated bearings have a higher rpm “limit” than grease lubricated bearings. In a 4-stroke engine turning less than 15,000rpm, there isn’t an issue with either method. It’s a different story for higher rpm marine and surface engines that reach in upwards of 40,000rpm.
01-02-2019, 07:03 AM
#2897
Rubber sealed bearings will leak or allow oil to seep in as well. I’ve used the rubber sealed and metal shielded bearings interchangeably for years without issue. On higher rpm engines, it is advised to remove the shields/seals and remove the grease so oil can get to the bearings. Oil lubricated bearings have a higher rpm “limit” than grease lubricated bearings. In a 4-stroke engine turning less than 15,000rpm, there isn’t an issue with either method. It’s a different story for higher rpm marine and surface engines that reach in upwards of 40,000rpm.
Yep, on all the above. I scrapped all my two strokes (save for two) many years ago so I do tend to leave them, along with high speed engines out of the loop. The "seals" are just marginal and to wear out and harden up with use. I prefer to use only sealed bearings on the fron tf four strokes, two strokes vary a bit. The sealed bearings also have a bit more drag and may also run a bit hotter from that drag.
Thanks for filling in the holes
01-02-2019, 07:34 AM
#2898
No holes really, just being clear. Many believe rubber sealed bearings are truly sealed and many have quipped that leaky front bearings on marginal quality engines can be replaced with better quality bearings with rubber seals and this cures the trouble when in reality the existing bearing is probably loose and allowing movement in the crank to leak more. My high rpm surface engines use front rubber seals to keep dirt out of the bearing and every single one of these engine exhibits leakage. There is something wrong with the engine if they don’t leak a little bit.
01-08-2019, 06:29 PM
#2899
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Any Enya guys know if there is supposed to be a washer/seal in front of this bearing? Behind? I can hear air coming out from there. Is there anywhere I can find exploded parts view for this 35III BB? TIA 
01-09-2019, 05:09 AM
#2900
That is a metal "Shield", not a plastic or rubber seal. While both have a certain leakage rate, the metal shields will pass liquid and air more freely than a seal.
