Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Club FOX!

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Old 02-07-2019, 03:45 AM
  #5076  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
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The B case will have the .790 stroke, the C case will have the .840 bore and shorter stroke.
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Old 02-07-2019, 03:56 AM
  #5077  
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I never owned either the 40 or 45, only the 50 and 46.I still have an almost new .50 that I fancied up a little
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:04 AM
  #5078  
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That is really a nice looking engine, Hobbsy.

What fuel blend do you run on it? I have 3 45 b-case and 3 40 c-case engines and would like to run the same fuel on all. The 45s are ringed, one of the 40 is ABC and the other 2 are lapped iron piston with steel sleeves. The head buttons are different between the ABC.and lapped engines just to complicate things.
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:11 AM
  #5079  
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Even though I don’t like Fox engines, I’d still wholeheartedly recommend using the fuel Duke Fox recommended to use in them. I know Dave will disagree with me, but in Engines with the small head chamber and wide squish band button heads - 0-5% nitro and 20-22% castor oil. If your engine has the cone shaped (trumpet) shaped head button with big chamber and narrow squish band head button - 0-15% nitro and 20-22% castor oil. ABC Engines are fine with an oil blend, lapped engines - if you want them to last forever - should have all castor. But that’s just my opinion. I use all castor in most of my engines and the engines don’t seem to care.
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Old 02-07-2019, 04:38 AM
  #5080  
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I have settled on one fuel now, Wildcat 10% with 18% full synthetic. All engines turn silky smooth, LA's seem to wake up on it.

But, I ain't disagreeing with you.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 02-07-2019 at 04:40 AM. Reason: Change content.
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Old 02-07-2019, 05:10 AM
  #5081  
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Still have a few cans of this stuff. Over 35 years old and runs like the day it went into the can.
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:19 AM
  #5082  
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Yeah, I planned on 5% nitro on all those variants. But I wasn't sure about the 20% all castor or 10% castor and 10% synthetic. 20% castor will be one heck of a slimy mess on the planes.
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:28 AM
  #5083  
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Default Replacement carb for .45 bushing engine?

Thanks for clearing up my question about the difference between the .40 and .45 engines.
I have a ringed .45 bushing engine (24500) with the early 2-jet carburetor.
Which would you recommend I look for: an MKX(B) or the EZ carb to update the engine (as recommended by FliteLine Solutions)?
;-)
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Old 02-07-2019, 06:30 AM
  #5084  
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I like the EZJust, it has a nice clean mid range.
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Old 02-07-2019, 07:43 AM
  #5085  
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While we are on the subject of carbs, I would like to swap 2 Mkx carbs on my Fox 40 c-case engine to EZJust. Anybody have any to swap or sell?
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Old 02-07-2019, 09:17 AM
  #5086  
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The MkX carb is better IMO. If I had an engine with an MkX, I’d leave it. UNLESS it’s too big of a choke for the engine used.
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Old 02-07-2019, 09:37 AM
  #5087  
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My reasoning for EZJust is I plan to install them on belly landers and they have to be side mounted. The low speed needle will be sticking down and will get damaged on landing.

Last edited by hsukaria; 02-07-2019 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:18 AM
  #5088  
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Default .40 vs .45 BBRC mystery resolved!

Thanks again for the timely info on bore size (and thoughts on replacing the old 2-jet carb). I discovered, quite by accident, another factor in this mystery. I ordered a muffler gasket for a Fox .45 from Larry Berman (ICBIMProducts.com) and found that, although the exhaust port size was correct, the bolt holes were too wide. Pulled a Fox .45BBRC off one of my planes, and found the gasket fit perfectly. It has the tilt-down muffler... and is actually embossed with "45" on the case! So I measured the cylinder bore of the "unknown" engine, and it came to 0.848" on my micrometer, and the stroke (distance between lowest & highest piston travel) as ~0.8". Admittedly, my degree of precision may be off, but this sounded like the specs (850x790) for a Fox 45 given in Hobsy's post 5075. So I searched at Spectre Flight, and found the following 1981 review of the Fox .45BBRC, which is my "mystery" engine! Apparently the .45BBRC underwent some changes when the newer muffler style was incorporated? (See comparison photo)
Larry is making a muffler gasket set to fit the older .45BBRC (bolt holes 0.975" o.c.) with an outside dimension to fit inside the flange-style muffler. He also has the carb gasket (which he lists as the "Type 60") that fits the MK-X mount on all my Fox 40-45 size engines.
I've ordered a new tilt-down "Fox .40" muffler from Mecoa - will be interesting to see if it fits this .45BBRC variant...
;-)
PJ



Page 1 of Peter Chin's January 1981 review of the Fox .45BBRC



Older Fox .45BBRC (left) and newer Fox .45BBRC (right) - note early muffler with flange in upper left, and newer tilt-down muffler on the right.

Last edited by pjwright; 02-10-2019 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 02-11-2019, 08:47 PM
  #5089  
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Hi. I recently acquired an old Fox .15x control line engine with an inherent problem. It came to me second hand with the wrist pin sticking out front of the piston. I was able to carefully squeeze it back in using padded needle nose pliers. With that said, I also noticed that the cylinder liner was not in exactly the correct place. So I heated up the crankcase and lined the liner up correctly and equally in line with the support in the exhaust. However, while I had the engine apart and liner out, I did notice that the pin was a bit loose and it would slightly pop out again a little bit. Is this normal, or is there something I should be looking into more? I do not want it to happen again. I do not know if this happened while running or sitting around, but just to mention, the engine has very good compression, and therector are no marks on either piston or liner. Thanks in advance for any help or input into this matter.
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Old 02-13-2019, 05:53 AM
  #5090  
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Check to see if the wire circlip is missing. Fox engines seem to spit circlips out often enough that Duke Fox went to using a roll pin pressed in the side of the piston to retain the wristpin in later production engines.
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:30 PM
  #5091  
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All good now. Got it figured out. Thank you.
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Old 02-19-2019, 01:26 PM
  #5092  
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Ok, I am once again going through some old engines to replace the bearings. This time it is 3 Fox C-case 40 engines that I noticed either loose or scratchy bearings. One of the engines the bearings came out relatively easily. But the other 2 have been impossible to remove the bearings from the crankcase, although the crankshafts came out easily. I tried heating them in an oven at 200 deg F, soaked in a crockpot with fresh antifreeze overnight, and heating the crankcase with a heat gun. In all cases, I would then slam the crankcase on a piece of pine wood to pop them out. These tricks worked in the past in other engines but not these two. Also, there is no way to get behind the bearings to pull them out.

Any ideas? Is 200 deg F not hot enough? Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:50 PM
  #5093  
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Try 350F instead. I’ve had to go as high as 400F to get bearings out of one particular engine, but 350F usually does the trick. If using the oven, heat for no less than 10 minutes. The oil in and behind the bearing needs to start smoking before it’ll be hot enough to come out.
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Old 02-19-2019, 03:20 PM
  #5094  
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Thanks for the help Tim. I will have to wait until the wife is not home. She might not like me cooking MY engines in HER kitchen.

By the way, how do I pull out the front bearings after heating? I can't slam the engine on a piece of wood like on the main bearings. On these engines the bearing inner diameter is the same as the crankcase inner diameter. Nothing to grip onto.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:59 PM
  #5095  
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I do the hardwood bang with all of my engines. If the case is hot enough, the bearings will come out. If they don’t come out, heat it up hotter. Like I said - I had to run one engine up to 400F to get the sticky goo-encrusted bearings out. It was a well loved ST S45 Ring. It was very grimy inside.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:32 PM
  #5096  
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Odd that you mention the Supertiger .45, I had an especially crusty one that the bad bearing would not come out of. I made up a little tool from a piece of metal packing strapping. It could get a pretty good grip on the bearing in the chamfer. I am showing it on an FSR because it is open, and that is what I stole the newer bearing from. There are some inside collet type tools that can be bought for this purpose too. They only do one size though.

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Old 02-19-2019, 10:30 PM
  #5097  
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Maybe I’m just lucky and haven’t needed to make a tool to get the bearing(s) out. My S45 was smoking all to hell when I pulled it from the oven, and after one further bang on a block of hickory, the bearing popped out. Usually it doesn’t come to extremes, but some cases just have a tighter fit on the bearings than others do.
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Old 02-20-2019, 06:17 AM
  #5098  
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Well, I got the main bearing out after heating the 40 C-case in a 350 F oven. The front bearing would not come out, even after heating to 400 F. There is no way to get behind it to pull it out and the banging on wood did not work either. I even tried using needle-nose pliers to pull it by gripping the inner race with no luck either. I am re-heating the engine at 400 F and will try again. It is the front bearings that were bad on these engines, so they have to come out if I intend to use them.
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Old 02-20-2019, 06:55 AM
  #5099  
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Often you can use a drift to catch the edge of the inner race and drive the bearing out from the rear of the heated case.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:50 AM
  #5100  
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You could also give the backplate area a whack with a piece of wood with the case hot as well - this has worked for me in the past as well. The fact is the aluminum case will expand more than the bearing when heated. Clearly there is crud around the bearing race and crankcase that is acting like glue. It will come out, it’s just gonna take more finesse and possibly using some out of the box methods. Where there’s a will there’s a way.
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