Club FOX!
03-01-2015, 05:41 AM
#3853
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Your son is probably a fan of the ZX 14 which has about 160 hp the Concours above. "only" has 133. I could handle that. I've always liked machinery that bordered on the unmanageable.
03-01-2015, 05:47 AM
#3854
03-01-2015, 05:51 AM
#3855
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I am a Ford guy and I'm stuck with a 203,000 mile F-150 that won't die. Me and that ole truck are best buddies. It has hauled airplanes as far as 500 miles to fly them. And 1,000 miles to fish.
03-01-2015, 05:51 AM
#3856
It's okay. I have some mousse/hairspray cans I'll make into mufflers to fit the header you gave me. I only have one other engine I run a full pipe on and that's an ST S29. I'd rather use a tuned 1/4 wave muffler most of the time (a mousse can fits that category too) as they're not so peaky and accept a broad range of props.
03-01-2015, 05:56 AM
#3858
My last dodge I bought was a year old and 50k miles. Sold it to my dad with 237k and it's still going. 318 Magnum. It's tired, but it'll still start on a -20F day and will get you to work in 20" of snow. My current dodge has a lot more power but pathetic Goodyear tires. Only complaint with the truck is the cheap crappy tires they put on it. I'm a Mopar man for a daily driver, but my little go-fast rig is a 370hp (estimated) 358ci v8 equipped Chev S-10 2wd. I call it the fugly 5 liter eater. I'll have to see if I can find a picture of the ugly beast.
03-01-2015, 05:57 AM
#3859
03-01-2015, 09:05 AM
#3860
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You'd know, the baffled ones are almost whisper quiet yet still enhance performance. I stick a 90 sized Mac's Quiet pipe on the end of engine mufflers when my neighbors are out in their yards. It does not hinder performance on 4 strokes.
03-01-2015, 02:41 PM
#3861
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More than one of us are apparently. 
There are some people, IME, who aren't able to get a Fox engine to run right. I've bought perfectly good engines from a couple of them.
What I don't understand is why you hang around this thread unless you're trolling; in which case you've caught me.
CR
There are some people, IME, who aren't able to get a Fox engine to run right. I've bought perfectly good engines from a couple of them.What I don't understand is why you hang around this thread unless you're trolling; in which case you've caught me.
CR
03-01-2015, 03:20 PM
#3862
More than one of us are apparently. There are some people, IME, who aren't able to get a Fox engine to run right. I've bought perfectly good engines from a couple of them.
What I don't understand is why you hang around this thread unless you're trolling; in which case you've caught me.
CR
There are some people, IME, who aren't able to get a Fox engine to run right. I've bought perfectly good engines from a couple of them.What I don't understand is why you hang around this thread unless you're trolling; in which case you've caught me.
CR
My Fox twin was run on the fuel the manual recommended, and the tuning procedure was followed as outlined in the manual yet it still overheated, would not break-in to the point it could have been leaned enough to even fly a plane. If I had dared run that on a plane I'd have destroyed the plane. I believe it was a POS before I got my hands on it but in the eyes of the new owner, I'm sure he believes I caused all of the damage to that engine. If I knew then what I know now, I'd have saved my money and never set foot in FoxLand. So perhaps I got bad luck getting some 30year old designed engines that were improperly handled prior to my ownership and I got stuck dealing with the headache of trying to run junk. The 19RC I have runs o.k., and the .50 runs good with the MDS piston and cylinder. Unimpressed with the .50 in stock form using the stock muffler. Haven't tried the new piston and cylinder yet (Fox .50). I have a Davis head for the .50.
So no, I'm not trolling. Just sharing my experiences since they don't coincide with what I had read about them and figure people should know.
03-01-2015, 03:47 PM
#3863
There was an era where Fox had poor quality and when they required you to taper your own needles was part of that era. The period after about the late 80's or early 90's they improved. I believe the decline was in the late 70's or early 80's. But even the earlier higher quality era they were built tight and needed a lot of break-in. My later period control line engines did not need much break in, but my 70's era Fox Stunt ran almost a gallon of fuel before it would run right.
03-01-2015, 03:48 PM
#3864
One of the things about Fox engines is they have to be treated a certain way. If you rely on info that you get elsewhere, pertaining to typical glow engine handling, you may end up not being successful.
The big one is oil. You have to run castor in them. And a lot. I would not run less than 20% oil in a Fox, and 22% is probably better. At least half of that should be castor. Look up Fox fuels, and see how they mixed it. Very strong on the castor and percentage overall. In particular Dukes fuel. I think it was 25% straight Castor. Many of them were iron piston and sleeve. ABC coming way later, and only on a few engines. If they are not handled correct in the first place, they will be destroyed.
The big one is oil. You have to run castor in them. And a lot. I would not run less than 20% oil in a Fox, and 22% is probably better. At least half of that should be castor. Look up Fox fuels, and see how they mixed it. Very strong on the castor and percentage overall. In particular Dukes fuel. I think it was 25% straight Castor. Many of them were iron piston and sleeve. ABC coming way later, and only on a few engines. If they are not handled correct in the first place, they will be destroyed.
03-01-2015, 03:51 PM
#3865
There was an era where Fox had poor quality and when they required you to taper your own needles was part of that era. The period after about the late 80's or early 90's they improved. I believe the decline was in the late 70's or early 80's. But even the earlier higher quality era they were built tight and needed a lot of break-in. My later period control line engines did not need much break in, but my 70's era Fox Stunt ran almost a gallon of fuel before it would run right.
The combat specials were tight, and came with special break in instructions, including lapping compound or jeweler's rouge. This is one of the reasons why OS became so popular, they were kind of brain dead engines to run. Fox required a little more finesse!
03-01-2015, 05:34 PM
#3866
All I use is castor lube in my engines. 20% in all ringed, ABC, AAC, ABN. 25% castor in all lapped iron/steel and bushing engines. Seriously, I really am not a proponent of synthetic oil in model glow engines.
Fox engines are delicate it seems. For an engine that's supposed to last forever but be fragile and delicate... Isn't that a bit of an oxymoron?
Fox engines are delicate it seems. For an engine that's supposed to last forever but be fragile and delicate... Isn't that a bit of an oxymoron?
03-01-2015, 07:28 PM
#3867
All I use is castor lube in my engines. 20% in all ringed, ABC, AAC, ABN. 25% castor in all lapped iron/steel and bushing engines. Seriously, I really am not a proponent of synthetic oil in model glow engines.
Fox engines are delicate it seems. For an engine that's supposed to last forever but be fragile and delicate... Isn't that a bit of an oxymoron?
Fox engines are delicate it seems. For an engine that's supposed to last forever but be fragile and delicate... Isn't that a bit of an oxymoron?
Actually, for a Jett or a Nelson ( high performance modern engines) You want high quality synthetics. Just ask Henry or Dubb. LB 625 or good Klotz techniplate.
Delicate is a relative term. They just need to be handled properly. You can trash any engine if it is not handled properly.
03-01-2015, 07:35 PM
#3868
Actually, for a Jett or a Nelson ( high performance modern engines) You want high quality synthetics. Just ask Henry or Dubb. LB 625 or good Klotz techniplate.
Delicate is a relative term. They just need to be handled properly. You can trash any engine if it is not handled properly.
Delicate is a relative term. They just need to be handled properly. You can trash any engine if it is not handled properly.
03-01-2015, 07:39 PM
#3869
The problem is knowing you have high quality synthetic. Most fuels sold at the hobby stores, are a mystery. Considering Powermaster was supplied at almost all races, it was one you could generally trust. I always liked Sig fuel, or Ritches brew from TX. The problem is, the availability for good fuel is terrible. One of the big reasons why glow engines are not being used anymore. The fuel has gotten to be a PIA.
I add oil to every gallon I buy kicking it up to at least 20%
I add oil to every gallon I buy kicking it up to at least 20%
03-01-2015, 08:21 PM
#3871
High quality synthetic means European oil. MotulMicro and Aerosynth/Aerosave are the bees knees. For $80/gal or so. Klotz is PAG junk for $40/gal. I'll keep mixing my own fuel in the traditional way using the finest ingredients. Methanol, castor bean oil, and nitromethane.
03-02-2015, 03:41 AM
#3873
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As in many things, all synthetic lubes are not created equal, several years ago a friend gave me a jug of green full synthetic 10% fuel 17% lube. If an engine sat for a few days it would get dry as a bone inside. I'm on my second case of Wildcat 2/4 which is 18% full synthetic and engines don't dry out, they stay wet inside. I am going to keep using it until it gives me a reason not too, so far I don't see that happening. Saito's really run well on the 10% version I have now. The previous batch was 15%..
Last edited by Hobbsy; 03-02-2015 at 03:43 AM.
03-02-2015, 04:07 AM
#3875
As in many things, all synthetic lubes are not created equal, several years ago a friend gave me a jug of green full synthetic 10% fuel 17% lube. If an engine sat for a few days it would get dry as a bone inside. I'm on my second case of Wildcat 2/4 which is 18% full synthetic and engines don't dry out, they stay wet inside. I am going to keep using it until it gives me a reason not too, so far I don't see that happening. Saito's really run well on the 10% version I have now. The previous batch was 15%..