earlwb

OK, the earliest .40 and .45 engines had the 0.9375" screw spacing. Later Fox changed it to be slightly more wide. I have some early engines like that too. They use a rather horrid little muffler that is next to worthless with a glow engine. The muffler is very restrictive. But with a diesel conversion the horrid muffler then works really well. As the diesel doesn't need much of a muffler to work on it.

The early muffler had recessed molded into the muffler to clear the screw heads. There is also a sheet metal muffler made too. They silver soldered the sheet metal muffler together. You probably won't see the sheet metal mufflers as they had a tendency to come apart if the owner ran the engine too lean. Thus most of the sheet metal mufflers were thrown away.







Also if all else fails, one can make a bridge adapter to fit most any muffler one wants to to a different engine. I did adapt a K&B muffler to fit a Fox .45 engine myself witb a DIY bridge adapter. You can make the adapter as a two piece or one piece unit.

hsukaria

Yep, that's what the MACs guy said.

hsukaria

That new Fox carb is so beautiful, it makes up for the ugly muffler.

Regarding the stock muffler, is it easy to unscrew the aft section of the tiltdown muffler and replacing it with a mousse can. I did that with an OS muffler with good results. I just don't know if the Fox muffler aft section comes out easily.

spaceworm

I love your transparent prop. Where did you get it?

Sincerely, Richard

hsukaria

It's one of those stealth props from the Department of Defense, I bet.

earlwb

LOL. That is one of those wonders of flash photography. It makes the propeller appear to be translucent or transparent. It only works at low idle speed with my digital cameras.

But I like the thought it is a "military stealth propeller" too.


Huskaria, I bought some of the new Fox carbs several years ago when they were still selling them at the time. They actually had them for a good price then of $49.95 each. Later they raised the price to $69.95 when I last looked. Yes I do really like the new carbs, they work really well.

Also unfortunately the center portion of that small muffler comes completely out. You can see the crown part at the front of the muffler. You can remove the two screws in the back and pull it out. So although one could pull out the guts and put something onto the back of it, you will need to block off the front too.

The teardrop shaped cast aluminum mufflers do come apart, there is nothing inside of them. So one could pull the back off and put something else on. I did it with a lawn mower muffler on one myself too. A Dubro Snuffler muffler is another way to do it as well.

hsukaria

Ok, thanks. I was thinking of the teardrop shaped muffler. I might remove the aft end and stick a BIG mousse can to reduce the flow restriction. I am about to receive a MACs one-piece muffler for the C-case 40. I have 2 C-case 40 engines. So, if the performance difference between the stock muffler and the MACs one-piece muffler is considerable, I will modify the stock muffler with a mousse can for the second engine. That's the plan anyway.

I bought the new carb when I visited the Fox Manufacturing factory. They only charged me $40 back then. I wish I had bought a few, not just one.

Sport_Pilot

I believe you need to unscrew the screws, then heat it up till the solder melts. Some have taken aluminum tube between the fore and aft sections to increase the expansion volume which would do the same as using a mousse can.

hsukaria

That would work too. I don't have aluminum tubes, but if I find any, I could consider it too. Is the solder used more like the copper plumbing or like electric wiring solder? I could use either for my mod. I usually use JB Weld, but solder sounds good too.

earlwb

I don't remember the tear drop muffler being hard to get apart. But maybe I had heated up the front half to get it to expand. I forget now.

Normally for aluminum you would use aluminum solder. It is a zinc alloy that sticks well to aluminum. It is some pretty neat stuff though. The solder joints tend to be fairly strong too. I have used it to repair some aluminum things before.

JB Weld would work, but it depends on how hot the muffler gets as the epoxy will degrade faster if it gets too hot. But quite a few folks have used LB Weld epoxy on mufflers before with good results.

Sport_Pilot

I believe I have seen some of about the size in Lowes. But of course they may not be the exact required size.

Sport_Pilot

Perhaps sometimes they soldered them and sometimes not depending on demand.

hsukaria

The beauty of the mousse cans is that they provide a large volume at a very light weight. I have added mousse cans as a simple volumetric expansion chamber, no internal tube, and still not added weight to the muffler. Maybe even a reduction in weight.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

aluminum tubing........ONLINE METALS.com should have what u need for tubing needs.

Walther

My Feedback: (1)

Does someone have the bearing numbers for a Fox .45bb?

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Not sure if they are the same as the quickee, but the Boca listing shows them as:

R6N-ZZ/ MR6902-ZZ

I found my 50BB used the same bearings.

NOTE: I also found the standard R6 bearing too thick. R6 is .2812 while the R6N is .218. -ZZ denotes double metal shielded.

ps. I remove the metal shields from the rear bearing for improved lubrication through the bearing.

Walther

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks; the Webra speed 61 also takes the R6N.

iFrinkso

If Fox started up production - IFFFFF. What would you like seeing on the market from them? What product would make good economics to get back into it? I'd vote a common case .60 / .90 and glow / gas option for both. Target less than $200. Give us some prototypes to test too!!

Sport_Pilot

They need to produce the .40, 46, 50, 60, and 74 and possibly the 25. No iron piston versions, ringed or ABC. Forget ceramic, too expensive. Produce a glow gas glow plug and possibly a glow gas head for each version. Also a glow gas 1.00 and 1.5 size.

iFrinkso

Just picked up a Fox Eagle 4 .60!!! Tried ordering from fox- they said no way, none in stock so I had to snatch this off the ads. PO had it set up for rear exhaust. I want to go side exhaust. Can I get away with this if I just replace the ring? Was told it had 2 gallons through it already. Any thoughts? This is my first Fox. I'm expecting a challenge but hopefully I can learn the tricks. Also any thoughts on after market mufflers? This is slated for a Bridi Krafty 60.

earlwb

Yes you can just replace the ring and let the ring reseat itself as a side port engine and you'll be in business.

Sport_Pilot

IMO if only two gallons have been run you could just move the cylinder sideways and let the existing ring reseat. There should be plenty of meat on a new ring.

Walther

My Feedback: (1)

So; I am thinking of a twin project, and I have a couple of old Fox .74 twin plug engines. Would I be nuts to use these over the new engines?

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

no it's not nuts. just get new head button for them and get some perry carbs and adapters and they should be just fine. we all need a challenge now and again. i have 2 .74's also, late head buttons and perry carbs and adapters. just keep nitro to no more than 5%, use OS 4 stk glow plugs and go for it.

ps: also have clock wise running crank for 1 for reverse turning eng. for a twin eng. plane.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Which twin did you have in mind? I started building a smaller .25 size, sport/pattern plane called a .50 calliber. There is a big brother version of it called the Magnum .40, for .40 sized engines. I had the kit and foam cores from Eureka aircraft. The kit is spot on.
All of this is in preparation for a larger scale twin. As I do not have experience with twins, I wanted to start with a sport model.