Club FOX!
#4051
I had seen MACs mufflers at Toledo Show in the past, but not more recently. So, no telling. But I will take my 2 engines with me and shop around for mufflers.
The bolt spacing for the Fox 45 B-case is 15/16 inch. The bolt spacing for the Fox 40 C-case is 1 1/16 inch. MACs sells a header and one-piece muffler for the Norvel 25 that is 1 1/16 (1.062") That might work.
The MACs website lists headers for the Fox 45 and 50, but states that the bolt spacing is 1.10". That is not what I am measuring on my 45, 15/16" (0.9375").
The bolt spacing for the Fox 45 B-case is 15/16 inch. The bolt spacing for the Fox 40 C-case is 1 1/16 inch. MACs sells a header and one-piece muffler for the Norvel 25 that is 1 1/16 (1.062") That might work.
The MACs website lists headers for the Fox 45 and 50, but states that the bolt spacing is 1.10". That is not what I am measuring on my 45, 15/16" (0.9375").
The early muffler had recessed molded into the muffler to clear the screw heads. There is also a sheet metal muffler made too. They silver soldered the sheet metal muffler together. You probably won't see the sheet metal mufflers as they had a tendency to come apart if the owner ran the engine too lean. Thus most of the sheet metal mufflers were thrown away.
Also if all else fails, one can make a bridge adapter to fit most any muffler one wants to to a different engine. I did adapt a K&B muffler to fit a Fox .45 engine myself witb a DIY bridge adapter. You can make the adapter as a two piece or one piece unit.
Last edited by earlwb; 03-18-2015 at 06:44 AM. Reason: add more info
#4053
OK, the earliest .40 and .45 engines had the 0.9375" screw spacing. Later Fox changed it to be slightly more wide. I have some early engines like that too. They use a rather horrid little muffler that is next to worthless with a glow engine. The muffler is very restrictive. But with a diesel conversion the horrid muffler then works really well. As the diesel doesn't need much of a muffler to work on it.
The early muffler had recessed molded into the muffler to clear the screw heads. There is also a sheet metal muffler made too. They silver soldered the sheet metal muffler together. You probably won't see the sheet metal mufflers as they had a tendency to come apart if the owner ran the engine too lean. Thus most of the sheet metal mufflers were thrown away.
Also if all else fails, one can make a bridge adapter to fit most any muffler one wants to to a different engine. I did adapt a K&B muffler to fit a Fox .45 engine myself witb a DIY bridge adapter. You can make the adapter as a two piece or one piece unit.
The early muffler had recessed molded into the muffler to clear the screw heads. There is also a sheet metal muffler made too. They silver soldered the sheet metal muffler together. You probably won't see the sheet metal mufflers as they had a tendency to come apart if the owner ran the engine too lean. Thus most of the sheet metal mufflers were thrown away.
Also if all else fails, one can make a bridge adapter to fit most any muffler one wants to to a different engine. I did adapt a K&B muffler to fit a Fox .45 engine myself witb a DIY bridge adapter. You can make the adapter as a two piece or one piece unit.
Regarding the stock muffler, is it easy to unscrew the aft section of the tiltdown muffler and replacing it with a mousse can. I did that with an OS muffler with good results. I just don't know if the Fox muffler aft section comes out easily.
#4055
#4056
But I like the thought it is a "military stealth propeller" too.
Huskaria, I bought some of the new Fox carbs several years ago when they were still selling them at the time. They actually had them for a good price then of $49.95 each. Later they raised the price to $69.95 when I last looked. Yes I do really like the new carbs, they work really well.
Also unfortunately the center portion of that small muffler comes completely out. You can see the crown part at the front of the muffler. You can remove the two screws in the back and pull it out. So although one could pull out the guts and put something onto the back of it, you will need to block off the front too.
The teardrop shaped cast aluminum mufflers do come apart, there is nothing inside of them. So one could pull the back off and put something else on. I did it with a lawn mower muffler on one myself too. A Dubro Snuffler muffler is another way to do it as well.
Last edited by earlwb; 03-18-2015 at 07:30 AM. Reason: add more info
#4057
LOL. That is one of those wonders of flash photography. It makes the propeller appear to be translucent or transparent. It only works at low idle speed with my digital cameras.
But I like the thought it is a "military stealth propeller" too.
Huskaria, I bought some of the new Fox carbs several years ago when they were still selling them at the time. They actually had them for a good price then of $49.95 each. Later they raised the price to $69.95 when I last looked. Yes I do really like the new carbs, they work really well.
Also unfortunately the center portion of that small muffler comes completely out. You can see the crown part at the front of the muffler. You can remove the two screws in the back and pull it out. So although one could pull out the guts and put something onto the back of it, you will need to block off the front too.
The teardrop shaped cast aluminum mufflers do come apart, there is nothing inside of them. So one could pull the back off and put something else on. I did it with a lawn mower muffler on one myself too. A Dubro Snuffler muffler is another way to do it as well.
But I like the thought it is a "military stealth propeller" too.
Huskaria, I bought some of the new Fox carbs several years ago when they were still selling them at the time. They actually had them for a good price then of $49.95 each. Later they raised the price to $69.95 when I last looked. Yes I do really like the new carbs, they work really well.
Also unfortunately the center portion of that small muffler comes completely out. You can see the crown part at the front of the muffler. You can remove the two screws in the back and pull it out. So although one could pull out the guts and put something onto the back of it, you will need to block off the front too.
The teardrop shaped cast aluminum mufflers do come apart, there is nothing inside of them. So one could pull the back off and put something else on. I did it with a lawn mower muffler on one myself too. A Dubro Snuffler muffler is another way to do it as well.
I bought the new carb when I visited the Fox Manufacturing factory. They only charged me $40 back then. I wish I had bought a few, not just one.
Last edited by hsukaria; 03-18-2015 at 07:51 AM.
#4058
I believe you need to unscrew the screws, then heat it up till the solder melts. Some have taken aluminum tube between the fore and aft sections to increase the expansion volume which would do the same as using a mousse can.
#4059
That would work too. I don't have aluminum tubes, but if I find any, I could consider it too. Is the solder used more like the copper plumbing or like electric wiring solder? I could use either for my mod. I usually use JB Weld, but solder sounds good too.
#4060
I don't remember the tear drop muffler being hard to get apart. But maybe I had heated up the front half to get it to expand. I forget now.
Normally for aluminum you would use aluminum solder. It is a zinc alloy that sticks well to aluminum. It is some pretty neat stuff though. The solder joints tend to be fairly strong too. I have used it to repair some aluminum things before.
JB Weld would work, but it depends on how hot the muffler gets as the epoxy will degrade faster if it gets too hot. But quite a few folks have used LB Weld epoxy on mufflers before with good results.
Normally for aluminum you would use aluminum solder. It is a zinc alloy that sticks well to aluminum. It is some pretty neat stuff though. The solder joints tend to be fairly strong too. I have used it to repair some aluminum things before.
JB Weld would work, but it depends on how hot the muffler gets as the epoxy will degrade faster if it gets too hot. But quite a few folks have used LB Weld epoxy on mufflers before with good results.
#4063
The beauty of the mousse cans is that they provide a large volume at a very light weight. I have added mousse cans as a simple volumetric expansion chamber, no internal tube, and still not added weight to the muffler. Maybe even a reduction in weight.
#4066
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Not sure if they are the same as the quickee, but the Boca listing shows them as:
R6N-ZZ/ MR6902-ZZ
I found my 50BB used the same bearings.
NOTE: I also found the standard R6 bearing too thick. R6 is .2812 while the R6N is .218. -ZZ denotes double metal shielded.
ps. I remove the metal shields from the rear bearing for improved lubrication through the bearing.
R6N-ZZ/ MR6902-ZZ
I found my 50BB used the same bearings.
NOTE: I also found the standard R6 bearing too thick. R6 is .2812 while the R6N is .218. -ZZ denotes double metal shielded.
ps. I remove the metal shields from the rear bearing for improved lubrication through the bearing.
#4068
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If Fox started up production - IFFFFF. What would you like seeing on the market from them? What product would make good economics to get back into it? I'd vote a common case .60 / .90 and glow / gas option for both. Target less than $200. Give us some prototypes to test too!!
#4069
They need to produce the .40, 46, 50, 60, and 74 and possibly the 25. No iron piston versions, ringed or ABC. Forget ceramic, too expensive. Produce a glow gas glow plug and possibly a glow gas head for each version. Also a glow gas 1.00 and 1.5 size.
#4070
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just picked up a Fox Eagle 4 .60!!! Tried ordering from fox- they said no way, none in stock so I had to snatch this off the ads. PO had it set up for rear exhaust. I want to go side exhaust. Can I get away with this if I just replace the ring? Was told it had 2 gallons through it already. Any thoughts? This is my first Fox. I'm expecting a challenge but hopefully I can learn the tricks. Also any thoughts on after market mufflers? This is slated for a Bridi Krafty 60.
#4074
My Feedback: (133)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Keizer,
OR
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no it's not nuts. just get new head button for them and get some perry carbs and adapters and they should be just fine. we all need a challenge now and again. i have 2 .74's also, late head buttons and perry carbs and adapters. just keep nitro to no more than 5%, use OS 4 stk glow plugs and go for it.
ps: also have clock wise running crank for 1 for reverse turning eng. for a twin eng. plane.
ps: also have clock wise running crank for 1 for reverse turning eng. for a twin eng. plane.
Last edited by fujiman; 04-25-2015 at 10:09 AM.
#4075
My Feedback: (1)
Which twin did you have in mind? I started building a smaller .25 size, sport/pattern plane called a .50 calliber. There is a big brother version of it called the Magnum .40, for .40 sized engines. I had the kit and foam cores from Eureka aircraft. The kit is spot on.
All of this is in preparation for a larger scale twin. As I do not have experience with twins, I wanted to start with a sport model.