Notices
Glow Engines Discuss RC glow engines

Club FOX!

Old 05-12-2016, 03:33 AM
  #4651  
Sport_Pilot
 
Sport_Pilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 16,916
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
So maybe there is possible creedance to using a lighter distillate in place of kerosene... Probably wouldn't make as much power, but I'm sure it would cost more. But if someone wanted to run diesels with less smell, it might be a possibility to make it work.

FWIW - some companies' mineral spirits is really naphtha, but others has a completely different smell. Oddly enough, Ronson lighter fluid reformulated their lighter fluid to be "less flammable" and instead of being more naphtha based, they use more mineral spirits/paint thinner in it. I have a bottle of the old stuff (blue cap) and a bottle of the new stuff (red cap) - they smell different and burn different. Enough of a difference that I won't use the new red capped stuff in my Zippo lighters.
People have used Colemans in their lighters. A lot of lighter fluid though.
Old 05-12-2016, 04:04 AM
  #4652  
spaceworm
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Guilford, CT
Posts: 3,950
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Sport_Pilot
People have used Colemans in their lighters. A lot of lighter fluid though.
Back to Fox engines. We used lighter fluid to prime our Fox 35s for winter combat CL flying in the early fifties. Homemade 0 percent fuel, no electric starters then and wimpy ignitor batteries too. A backfire or not getting the frozen fingers out of the prop's way really hurt. We didn't use any gloves.
Old 05-28-2016, 01:50 AM
  #4653  
Aaron L.
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Powell, Wyoming
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Submission for Club Fox Membership...

Hello gentlemen,

Late to the Club Fox party, but would like to 'join up' nonetheless. I love old American designs......and the smell of Castor oil. In the early 1980's (when I was 11-13 or so) I belonged to a local flying club with my Dad. Most guys ran K&B, Enya, or OS two strokes. Dad had an OS .25FSR/ABC on an Eaglet-50. A couple die-hards (called 'kooks' by a few of the other flyers) flew Fox engines. Those guys knew their engines (and were the guys that everyone else went to for advice). Left an impression on me. The club lost our field and dissolved right around the time I was getting proficient at flying. I moved on to RC cars...........and then motorcycles/trucks/girls/etc. Time passed....


Years later I picked up an NOS 1981 Eagle-1 at a swap meet. Had always ran Cox, K&B, and OS engines before that. Liked the idea of having an old American engine (and had always wanted a Fox Eagle variant since seeing them as a kid). Broke it in on the bench and was impressed with its running qualities. Bought a GP PT60 kit to build for it..................and then got distracted by other things (hunting/truck/girlfriend/work/etc) again.

More time passed. Made a brief (but enthusiastic) run back into RC car racing around 2007-2010 or so. Trying to regain some of my childhood as I approached 40 maybe? Even made the leap into 5th scale with an HPI Baja 5B. My local tracks folded, and those that remain are too far away for frequent trips. Got tired of the juvenile antics of many of the guys on the car boards I had been frequenting. Haven't done much with the cars (or the car boards) since. Fondly remembered the gentlemen that had been in the flying club. Been active with other hobbies (I collect and run old chainsaws............yeah I'm a bit eccentric).

Picked up a few more Fox engines on eBay over the next few years as impulse buys. MUCH more time passed. Now I'm in my 40's, with a family. A couple local flying clubs are active (with fields), and I'm looking to get back into flying. Been practicing with RealFlight 7.5, trying to knock off close to thirty years or so of cobwebs from the brain and thumbs. Can run a car pretty well still, but I'm still rusty with a plane. Picked up some more Fox engines (just can't stop). Been lurking here for a while, and read through this ENTIRE thread over the last month or two. Have a couple kits to build, and am eying others (as well as a few different ARF options).

My Fox engines so far. Have yet to fly any of them. I've always been a gearhead/motorhead.

1)Used Eagle-1 with original muffler. 2-Jet carb. eBay purchase. Was castor stuck and dirty. Cleaned it up and oiled. Looks like it may have only been ran a bit on the bench.

2)NOS (well until I ran it) 1981 Eagle-1 with original muffler. I like to think of it as an "Eagle-1.5" because of the differences between it and an original Eagle-1. Mk-X carb. Bushed rod. Upright (rather than tilted) offset plug head. Outer muffler mounting ears (two center bosses not drilled). No exhaust baffle. Bead blasted finish. Etc. Swap meet purchase 20+ years ago.

3).29 RC with muffler. Lapped iron piston. Like new. Possibly NOS. No box, but with instructions. Bright finish and no outer muffler lugs. Exhaust baffle. Stuck with castor oil at the moment. Just got it for a song on eBay.

4).29RC with muffler. Lapped iron piston. Low time. Bright finish and no outer lugs. Exhaust baffle. Bargain eBay purchase years ago.

5).29RC. Lapped iron piston. Low time, but missing muffler, drive washer, prop washer, and nut (anybody that has a .29/.36 drive washer and prop washer to sell/trade please PM me). Bright finish and no outer lugs. Exhaust baffle. Bought within a few days of #4.

Dang lapped iron .29 RC's just keep coming my way (cheap). Can't pass 'em up. Neat little engines. Weigh less than a modern .25. Thinking about putting two in a Eureka Aircraft 50 Caliber Twin, Hobbico Twinstar, or Pica Duelist at some point. I have a GP GT20 kit to build for the third engine.

6)NIB Eagle-4 .60 ABC with muffler. Mk-X AND EZ carbs in the box. eBay purchase a number of years ago.

7)NIB C-Case .40RCBB-Deluxe. ABC/Spinner. MK-X carb. eBay purchase around the same time as the Eagle-4.

8)NIB B-Case .40RCBB "wart" engine. Ring. Bright finish. 2-Jet carb. Unfortunately missing the 26063 low speed needle and spring (anybody that has one to sell, please PM me). This was the eBay impulse bid purchase that got me going on Foxes again. Managed to scare up an original muffler (narrow screw spacing) from a great guy on RCG recently.

9)NIB .45RCBB with spinner and muffler. Mk-X carb. eBay deal that I couldn't pass up.

10)NIB .45RCBB. No muffler. EZ carb. Bought in an unusual 'two engines' eBay auction with #9 above. Basically a two-for-one deal.

11)Used .46RC with muffler. ABC. EZ carb. Seems to be in good shape. Haven't really gone through it yet. eBay impulse bid again...

12)Used Eagle-4 .74 Ring with muffler. Listed on eBay as a .60 (with no pic of the piston and liner through the ex port). When I examined it upon arrival, I was pleasantly surprised by the four exhaust ports (rather than the three of a ringed Eagle-4 .60).

13)Got a nice 'middle production' .78 on the way. No exhaust baffle, but with a 2-Jet carb and no outer muffler screw lugs (like what'd be found on a 1981 variant).

Also picked up a sweet little NOS Enya .15-III TV with muffler. Neat little lapped piston jobby.

Would like to pick up a good .60 Hawk and Schnuerle ported .25RCBB at some point. Dangit, I saw many NOS and good used Hawks go for CHEAP $ on eBay years ago. Have bid on a few lately, but they've gone for more than momma lets me spend (or I forgot about the auction and somebody else got a great deal). Same with the Schnuerle ported .25RCBB's...


Ha! just remembered another Fox engine that I have stashed away; Bright finish .35 Stunt that I picked up a flea market sometime around 1988 or so. Have only bench ran it (not long after I bought it). Got it with an NOS Top Flight P-40 Warhawk CL kit for something like $10-$15. May convert that kit to RC (using one of the .29 RC's or a .36RC). I used to fly CL when I was a pre-teen/teen, but don't think I can do that anymore. Would probably make me dizzy/sick and/or trigger a migraine these days.....

Last edited by Aaron L.; 05-28-2016 at 01:56 AM.
Old 05-28-2016, 08:17 AM
  #4654  
blw
My Feedback: (3)
 
blw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Opelika, AL
Posts: 9,447
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

well, you have had a few Fox engines Aaron.
Old 05-28-2016, 10:07 AM
  #4655  
Aaron L.
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Powell, Wyoming
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yessir. Just wish that Fox was still producing engines, or at least stocking some parts. Could use a couple head buttons and other bits....
Old 06-02-2016, 04:47 AM
  #4656  
Cougar429
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Cougar429's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tecumseh, ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

O/K. I'm going to have to defer to the more experienced for this one.

As posted a while ago the Eagle IV 60 is installed in the F-15 with a Perry pump and carb setup. Tried to get it flying a few weeks ago and although would idle all day, full throttle would surge and/or die, regardless of pump and carb settings.

Back home I pulled the Perry carb and reinstalled one of the originals, (have a pair of these). There were two completely different carbs and I opted for the two-needle MK-X and was able to get much better response. Have not tached the top end yet so no numbers.

Had to go back through the notes as the carb suffered what appears to be a common problem, fuel leakage past the HS needle. I checked the setting before adding a piece of fuel tubing and lacking the optional gasket found an O-ring that fits in the housing with very slight compression when the housing is installed. Will try and check that in the next few days.

NOTE: The HS is out only 1 1/2 turns, while the LS is below 1 turn out. I can reduce pump volume, but already have over 2 full turns in and suspect I will then get into feed problems, especially with the nose up attitude.

The second carb I had in spares is an odd duck. There is an air bleed, but no needles at all. Where both would sit in the MK carb allan head cap bolts are fully seated. I can upload a pic later. So far I have not been able to identify this one so no ideas of what it requires, not if it would work better with the pump setup.

Anyone with some info on that one or if I also need to modify the LS needle on the -X? I have fuel tubing on the LS as well, but did not reverse the nut to place the groove on the bottom. Engine is side mounted, so any HS leak drips down to the bottom and would hide any leak there.

Things may have been much easier if the bolt spacing were identical to the YS 50 heli engine. That is designed to work with a pressurized tank and would have eliminated the pump completely, (although made fueling/defueling more difficult).
Old 06-14-2016, 05:00 AM
  #4657  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Aaron L.
Yessir. Just wish that Fox was still producing engines, or at least stocking some parts. Could use a couple head buttons and other bits....
Yeah, me too!!!

On your smaller engines, if you have a spare without any ideas for an airframe, you might consider the Gremlin by R A Cores, or Sig Wonder, or similar SPAD type plane. They are a lot of fun for a small investment.

Last edited by hsukaria; 06-14-2016 at 05:03 AM.
Old 06-22-2016, 06:20 PM
  #4658  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I recently noticed that one of my 2 Fox 45BB engines has some axial play on the crankshaft (the other 45 has no looseness whatsoever). The front to rear movement is approximately 0.7mm, no radial movement at all, however. Is that excessive? Should I replace the bearings? How would I remove the prop drive hub without damaging it, being that it is a stamped sheet metal? thanks.
Old 06-23-2016, 12:18 AM
  #4659  
Aaron L.
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Powell, Wyoming
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Cougar429
O/K. I'm going to have to defer to the more experienced for this one.

As posted a while ago the Eagle IV 60 is installed in the F-15 with a Perry pump and carb setup. Tried to get it flying a few weeks ago and although would idle all day, full throttle would surge and/or die, regardless of pump and carb settings.

Back home I pulled the Perry carb and reinstalled one of the originals, (have a pair of these). There were two completely different carbs and I opted for the two-needle MK-X and was able to get much better response. Have not tached the top end yet so no numbers.

Had to go back through the notes as the carb suffered what appears to be a common problem, fuel leakage past the HS needle. I checked the setting before adding a piece of fuel tubing and lacking the optional gasket found an O-ring that fits in the housing with very slight compression when the housing is installed. Will try and check that in the next few days.

NOTE: The HS is out only 1 1/2 turns, while the LS is below 1 turn out. I can reduce pump volume, but already have over 2 full turns in and suspect I will then get into feed problems, especially with the nose up attitude.

The second carb I had in spares is an odd duck. There is an air bleed, but no needles at all. Where both would sit in the MK carb allan head cap bolts are fully seated. I can upload a pic later. So far I have not been able to identify this one so no ideas of what it requires, not if it would work better with the pump setup.

Anyone with some info on that one or if I also need to modify the LS needle on the -X? I have fuel tubing on the LS as well, but did not reverse the nut to place the groove on the bottom. Engine is side mounted, so any HS leak drips down to the bottom and would hide any leak there.

Things may have been much easier if the bolt spacing were identical to the YS 50 heli engine. That is designed to work with a pressurized tank and would have eliminated the pump completely, (although made fueling/defueling more difficult).
That 'odd duck' carb sounds like it's an E-Z Adjust model that somebody has set up for use with a remote HS needle valve. Fox used to sell a remote needle setup. Dub Jett still does. Many Asian engines have remote HS needles too........and one of those could have also been used with that carb.

The E-Z Adjust carb has an air bleed trim in front for the idle, and a HS needle on the left side in the spray bar assembly. The throttle arm is held onto the throttle barrel on the right side of the carb with a cap screw (in the location where you'd find the LS needle on a MK-X carb). My guess is that you're seeing that arm retaining cap screw on the right side, and another cap screw (hopefully a short one) threaded into the spray bar on the left side as a plug in place of an HS needle. IF they used a screw on the left side that was too long, the tip of it could have damaged the spray bar when seated.

If the spraybar is undamaged (and it probably is unless some rube forced a long screw in there), then you could either run that carb with a remote HS needle valve assembly, or replace the left side screw with an HS needle for an E-Z Adjust carb. We can look up the part # for you if you want to go that route. Bet that needle would be easy to find on eBay (unlike the 26063 L side needle that I need for my 2-jet carb equipped B-Frame .40).

This is just a guess based on your description. A pic or two would make 100% identification much easier. I have no experience running an E-Z Adjust carb with a pump, so I cannot comment on its suitability for your application.
Old 06-23-2016, 12:23 AM
  #4660  
Aaron L.
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Powell, Wyoming
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by hsukaria
Yeah, me too!!!

On your smaller engines, if you have a spare without any ideas for an airframe, you might consider the Gremlin by R A Cores, or Sig Wonder, or similar SPAD type plane. They are a lot of fun for a small investment.
Thanks for the suggestions. I have three of those .29RC bushing engines so far. They keep multiplying here...


Originally Posted by hsukaria
I recently noticed that one of my 2 Fox 45BB engines has some axial play on the crankshaft (the other 45 has no looseness whatsoever). The front to rear movement is approximately 0.7mm, no radial movement at all, however. Is that excessive? Should I replace the bearings? How would I remove the prop drive hub without damaging it, being that it is a stamped sheet metal? thanks.
Has the .45 with the axial play been ran? I'm wondering if the tapered collar hasn't been seated against the inner race of the front bearing. Torquing down the prop nut with a prop in place should seat the collar and drive washer. Can't recall any of my BB B-frame Foxes (or my Eagle I or IV engines) having any axial play at the crank. Only my bushing engines have some axial play (which is normal for them).
Old 06-23-2016, 05:19 AM
  #4661  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Aaron L.
Thanks for the suggestions. I have three of those .29RC bushing engines so far. They keep multiplying here...




Has the .45 with the axial play been ran? I'm wondering if the tapered collar hasn't been seated against the inner race of the front bearing. Torquing down the prop nut with a prop in place should seat the collar and drive washer. Can't recall any of my BB B-frame Foxes (or my Eagle I or IV engines) having any axial play at the crank. Only my bushing engines have some axial play (which is normal for them).
i have run it, but i will go back and put a prop on it and torque it down to see what happens. will report back in a couple of days. thanks.
Old 06-23-2016, 12:53 PM
  #4662  
Cougar429
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Cougar429's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tecumseh, ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Here are the pics of the carbs. The two-needle is mounted on the engine now and I fabbed a gasket to replace the O-ring that interfered with closing the throttle.

As you can see there are no needles at all with this carb so other than the air bleed and possibly a remote HS needle wonder how this sets up.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0013.jpg
Views:	46
Size:	42.6 KB
ID:	2169291   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1234.JPG
Views:	36
Size:	3.58 MB
ID:	2169292   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1235.JPG
Views:	48
Size:	3.60 MB
ID:	2169296  
Old 06-23-2016, 02:50 PM
  #4663  
Hobbsy
My Feedback: (102)
 
Hobbsy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes on 24 Posts
Default

That is an EZJust carb with a missing HS needle, it is a metered carb with overlapping slots in the barrel and the carb body. It has the cleanest midrange of all Fox carbs except maybe the newest CNC machined one. If you would like a remote needle for it, maybe I have one, gotta look tomorrow.Earl has one or two of the latest ones.
Old 06-23-2016, 02:58 PM
  #4664  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Dave beat me to it, I was going to say it is a EZJust carb.

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	20160623_184641.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	1.44 MB
ID:	2169312   Click image for larger version

Name:	20160623_184653.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	1.37 MB
ID:	2169313   Click image for larger version

Name:	20160623_184826 (1).jpg
Views:	115
Size:	1.62 MB
ID:	2169314  
Old 06-23-2016, 03:02 PM
  #4665  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

By the way, I installed a prop and torqued down hard on my Fox 45 to push in the prop hub and eliminate the axial play. But the hub won't budge and the axial play has not changed/reduced.
Old 06-23-2016, 04:54 PM
  #4666  
Cougar429
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Cougar429's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tecumseh, ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

How would the HS needle attach to the carb if there is only the allan head cap bolt inserted into the inlet housing?
Old 06-23-2016, 06:04 PM
  #4667  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Cougar429
How would the HS needle attach to the carb if there is only the allan head cap bolt inserted into the inlet housing?
Looks like you are missing the threaded tube that the HSN screws into. Is there a jet tube visible inside the venture?
Old 06-23-2016, 06:09 PM
  #4668  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,409
Received 76 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hsukaria
By the way, I installed a prop and torqued down hard on my Fox 45 to push in the prop hub and eliminate the axial play. But the hub won't budge and the axial play has not changed/reduced.
You will likely need to remove the prop driver and manically push the collet up against the front bearing. I had a flywheel come loose on a Picco buggy engine that wouldn't tighten up (had the same axial movement in/out as you describe) just by tightening the crankshaft nut. I had to remove the flywheel and collet and re-set the collet. Pulling on the crank when putting the collet on works best.
Old 06-23-2016, 06:23 PM
  #4669  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,409
Received 76 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hsukaria
Looks like you are missing the threaded tube that the HSN screws into. Is there a jet tube visible inside the venture?
The discharge nozzle is pressed into the barrel. The threaded portion the needle valve screws into is machined into the outer needle valve housing. See my pictures. It appears Cougars carburetor was possibly crashed (and thus broke the threaded part off) and the previous owner drilled and tapped the outer housing to plug it to use a RNV. Here's my .330" EZ carb's needle valve housing and related parts:
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	31
Size:	924.2 KB
ID:	2169342   Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	33
Size:	1.86 MB
ID:	2169343   Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpeg
Views:	36
Size:	1.83 MB
ID:	2169344  
Old 06-23-2016, 06:33 PM
  #4670  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
The discharge nozzle is pressed into the barrel. The threaded portion the needle valve screws into is machined into the outer needle valve housing. See my pictures. It appears Cougars carburetor was possibly crashed (and thus broke the threaded part off) and the previous owner drilled and tapped the outer housing to plug it to use a RNV. Here's my .330" EZ carb's needle valve housing and related parts:
In that case, any RNV will work. No need to get a specific Fox model, although they are nice.
Old 06-23-2016, 06:35 PM
  #4671  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
You will likely need to remove the prop driver and manically push the collet up against the front bearing. I had a flywheel come loose on a Picco buggy engine that wouldn't tighten up (had the same axial movement in/out as you describe) just by tightening the crankshaft nut. I had to remove the flywheel and collet and re-set the collet. Pulling on the crank when putting the collet on works best.
That is giving me the willies. What if I break something? No spares!!! Would the engine run ok long term with that axial play? Or would there be excessive wear/damage?
Old 06-23-2016, 06:41 PM
  #4672  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,409
Received 76 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hsukaria
That is giving me the willies. What if I break something? No spares!!! Would the engine run ok long term with that axial play? Or would there be excessive wear/damage?
Its not that difficult. If you break something, you're doing something very wrong. The prop driver should come loose easily with a bit of heat and a chunk of hardwood. If the collet doesn't move by hand, stick a thin screwdriver in the slot and pry it open slightly.

Running the engine with that axial play is not good. It will cause the crank to rub the backplate causing wear on the crankpin, rod, and backplate. If the rod/crank moves too much, the rod could be damaged too. This is in addition to damaged bearings due to improper bearing pre-load.
Old 06-23-2016, 06:46 PM
  #4673  
hsukaria
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 3,216
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
Its not that difficult. If you break something, you're doing something very wrong. The prop driver should come loose easily with a bit of heat and a chunk of hardwood. If the collet doesn't move by hand, stick a thin screwdriver in the slot and pry it open slightly.

Running the engine with that axial play is not good. It will cause the crank to rub the backplate causing wear on the crankpin, rod, and backplate. If the rod/crank moves too much, the rod could be damaged too. This is in addition to damaged bearings due to improper bearing pre-load.
ok, sounds like I have a new engine project. I will replace the bearings while I'm at it. I replaced the piston ring last year and bench ran it only. Ran nice. This is the highly used and abused engine I discussed last year on this forum. I just didn't think about axial play until I got another Fox 45 and compared them side by side.
Old 06-23-2016, 07:18 PM
  #4674  
1QwkSport2.5r
 
1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 10,409
Received 76 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hsukaria
ok, sounds like I have a new engine project. I will replace the bearings while I'm at it. I replaced the piston ring last year and bench ran it only. Ran nice. This is the highly used and abused engine I discussed last year on this forum. I just didn't think about axial play until I got another Fox 45 and compared them side by side.
Yeah, when the prop is tight, you don't want any axial or any lateral movement, really. That is, on a ball raced engine. Obviously a bushing crankshaft is a different animal.
Old 06-24-2016, 04:00 AM
  #4675  
Cougar429
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
 
Cougar429's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tecumseh, ON, CANADA
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks for the help on that carb. Only question then is which do you think would work best with the pump setup?

Have been trying to get outside to test the other carb mods but weather and other plans have not cooperated so far.


As for the 45 with end play, there are several reasons I see for it: Incorrect bearing width and/or assembly, as well as bearing wear. The design has the step on the crank come out flush with the front face of the front bearing so when the collar is slid onto the crank the proper preload is set by tightening everything down. In some cases there is a washer behind the drive washer, but I usually see these with key lock drives.

Along with pulling the prop driver and checking to see if the tapered collar is fully seated, (heat the drive washer, repeatedly if necessary) you should remove that collar as well to ensure there is nothing physical such as a nick or mark on the crank preventing it fully seating, You want to avoid using tools or anything that can mark the collar as that can then prevent the drive washer from seating true.

The statements about avoiding end play are correct, but IMO, the worst wear usually occurs when the engine is started with an electric driver that forces the rotating bits rearward to get adequate friction to spin.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.