Club FOX!
07-06-2016, 07:32 AM
#4726
I always remove both shields/seals from the rear bearing and one seal/shield from the front bearing and install the front so the shield is facing the prop driver. Oil will still get through the shields, but I see no reason to make it any harder for the oil to get in.
07-06-2016, 08:00 AM
#4727
I always remove both shields/seals from the rear bearing and one seal/shield from the front bearing and install the front so the shield is facing the prop driver. Oil will still get through the shields, but I see no reason to make it any harder for the oil to get in.
07-06-2016, 08:46 AM
#4729
I use the edge of an awl, Xacto knife, or even a utility knife blade. They usually pop right out. I have not come across a bearing that had a circlip that held the shield in, but that's not to say they cannot have them. The metal shields I've removed from bearings were crimped in such a way that they were a light friction fit inside the lip of the outer race. The rubber seals have been no different. Just use caution getting started so you don't knick the ball retainer.
07-06-2016, 09:16 AM
#4730
I use the edge of an awl, Xacto knife, or even a utility knife blade. They usually pop right out. I have not come across a bearing that had a circlip that held the shield in, but that's not to say they cannot have them. The metal shields I've removed from bearings were crimped in such a way that they were a light friction fit inside the lip of the outer race. The rubber seals have been no different. Just use caution getting started so you don't knick the ball retainer.
07-06-2016, 03:53 PM
#4731
I use the edge of an awl, Xacto knife, or even a utility knife blade. They usually pop right out. I have not come across a bearing that had a circlip that held the shield in, but that's not to say they cannot have them. The metal shields I've removed from bearings were crimped in such a way that they were a light friction fit inside the lip of the outer race. The rubber seals have been no different. Just use caution getting started so you don't knick the ball retainer.
07-06-2016, 04:17 PM
#4732
07-06-2016, 04:31 PM
#4733
07-06-2016, 04:41 PM
#4734
The smaller 698 bearing I show in the video took less than 30 seconds for both shields. Some bigger bearings have a tighter fitting shield due to the overall size of the bearing. Some shields are easier to pop out from the inside of the outer race, but these two bearings were easier to get out from going in through the outside of the inner race.
07-06-2016, 05:20 PM
#4735
I took a video instead. Heres how I do it: https://youtu.be/9tKn4tJHtNg
The smaller 698 bearing I show in the video took less than 30 seconds for both shields. Some bigger bearings have a tighter fitting shield due to the overall size of the bearing. Some shields are easier to pop out from the inside of the outer race, but these two bearings were easier to get out from going in through the outside of the inner race.
The smaller 698 bearing I show in the video took less than 30 seconds for both shields. Some bigger bearings have a tighter fitting shield due to the overall size of the bearing. Some shields are easier to pop out from the inside of the outer race, but these two bearings were easier to get out from going in through the outside of the inner race.
07-06-2016, 05:41 PM
#4736
Yeah, I think I originally said to try going in from the outside... Some bearings this works, others it's easier to go from the inside. It really depends. Glad they came out.
07-06-2016, 05:42 PM
#4737
07-06-2016, 08:52 PM
#4738
Well, the old heavily used and abused Fox 45 bearing replacement is done. The old bearings were bad. Besides allowing excessive axial play, the front bearing was scratchy.
Meanwhile, I purchased a BNIB Fox 45 a couple of weeks ago for a good price. That flag on the box makes all the difference to me.
Meanwhile, I purchased a BNIB Fox 45 a couple of weeks ago for a good price. That flag on the box makes all the difference to me.
07-06-2016, 09:32 PM
#4739
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09-20-2016, 03:46 PM
#4742
I'd love to post something new, but have left the Eagle IV powered F-15 on the rack till I can figure out some way to ensure reliable fuel delivery. With the corn around the field too tall to risk dead sticks things will remain that way till harvest.
09-20-2016, 04:58 PM
#4743
That might be a good thing, means there are no problems with the Fox engines out there.
My 2 airplanes that had the Fox engines are gone, one disintegrated from heavy use and the other I gave away. The engines are in storage. I have a Sig Kavalier kit that I plan to build one day and put a Fox 45 with a tuned pipe on it. Should scoot.
My 2 airplanes that had the Fox engines are gone, one disintegrated from heavy use and the other I gave away. The engines are in storage. I have a Sig Kavalier kit that I plan to build one day and put a Fox 45 with a tuned pipe on it. Should scoot.
09-20-2016, 05:53 PM
#4744
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i have been out of the hobby for several years now. as you can see my last posts were way back. i feel like i may be getting back an itch to fly. i have a pretty good collection of fox engines and really love to work with them. one of the last projects i had realized was a fox 120 twin on a big stick 60. it was so cool but real nose heavy. totally out of bounds.
Last edited by dammitman; 09-20-2016 at 05:55 PM.
09-20-2016, 06:08 PM
#4745
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I have been out of the hobby for several years now. as you can see my last posts were way back. i feel like i may be getting back an itch to fly.
Winter is breathing down our necks, so you should have enough time to knock out another airplane before spring.
That stick 60 would probably fly great, with a 60-78 single cylinder engine!
Bill
09-20-2016, 07:20 PM
#4747
I will be dusting off the FrankenFox this fall yet for another test bench romp. It's going to undergo some modifications to hopefully make it run like the true .42 she is..
I have a new to me .50 that needs a test running too - glow and diesel. This one shouldn't wear out 5 minutes after starting it hopefully.
I have a new to me .50 that needs a test running too - glow and diesel. This one shouldn't wear out 5 minutes after starting it hopefully.
09-20-2016, 07:33 PM
#4749
A Fox wearing out in 5 minutes of running? None that I ever had. I did have a .35 Stunt were out after about 40 flights, but that was flying off the sand at Wheelus AFB in Libya.
On the other hand, I had a .15 Schnuerle that needed about 12 starts with a screwdriver handle before I dared try it with a finger, and I have an Eagle 3 that took about 15 flight a year for 10 years to get broken in enough to start with a Sullivan starter and run out a full tank in the air.
But a Fox wearing out in 5 minutes? Unheard of, even with low oil.
On the other hand, I had a .15 Schnuerle that needed about 12 starts with a screwdriver handle before I dared try it with a finger, and I have an Eagle 3 that took about 15 flight a year for 10 years to get broken in enough to start with a Sullivan starter and run out a full tank in the air.
But a Fox wearing out in 5 minutes? Unheard of, even with low oil.
09-20-2016, 07:36 PM
#4750
A Fox wearing out in 5 minutes of running? None that I ever had. I did have a .35 Stunt wore out after about 40 flights, but that was flying off the sand at Wheelus AFB in Libya.
On the other hand, I had a .15 Schnuerle that needed about 12 starts with a screwdriver handle before I dared try it with a finger, and I have an Eagle 3 that took about 15 flight a year for 10 years to get broken in enough to start with a Sullivan starter and run out a full tank in the air.
But a Fox wearing out in 5 minutes? Unheard of, even with low oil.
On the other hand, I had a .15 Schnuerle that needed about 12 starts with a screwdriver handle before I dared try it with a finger, and I have an Eagle 3 that took about 15 flight a year for 10 years to get broken in enough to start with a Sullivan starter and run out a full tank in the air.
But a Fox wearing out in 5 minutes? Unheard of, even with low oil.
