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Old 01-17-2006, 02:10 AM
  #51  
Kmot
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I only have a few O.S. engines:

10 FP with a car head
10 FP with airplane head
12 LD-CX car engine
15 LD car engine
40 FS-CX car engines (2)
61 FS Marine
65 VR Marine
120 FS SP

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Old 01-17-2006, 04:29 AM
  #52  
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Here they are!Enjoy and if you want sth else let me know!
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:36 AM
  #53  
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ORIGINAL: Kmot

I only have a few O.S. engines:

10FP with a car head
10FP with airplane head
12 LD-CX car engine
15LD car engine
40 FS-CX car engines (2)
65VR Marine
120FS SP

--------------


It isn't how many OS engines you have/had - it is how much you appreciate them...
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:38 PM
  #54  
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Hi ya all OS fans.
I have an OS 120 Surpass III with pump and I Love that engine. Its reliable, fuel efficent, has awesome sound, easy to tune, with built-in fuelpump allows me to place fueltank on the c of g position. It has good power allowing me to use a 16x6 prop that gives good break during those downlines.
However if I want to further increase the amount of power, I suppose I need to increase the percentage of nitro. What is the maximum percentage I can use and still see a gain in power? Are there any other ways but increase of nitro???

Regards,

C.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:14 PM
  #55  
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C., I remember Harry Lagman I believe saying that the exhaust pipe can be changed to one with a larger inside diameter for a power increase. Maybe he will read this and reply. I think the Surpass doesn't respond to 20% and 30% nitro like some of the other 4 strokes. I'm just going by what I have read here at RCU; never tried more than 15% nitro in my O.S. thumpers or the 2 banger.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:26 PM
  #56  
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Ok, thanks. I will try to mix 15% blend then. So far I have used up the fuel that was left and it was 7% nitro. Finally all out of last batch I'll get some more that is optimal for this engine. Here in Sweden we mix our fuel by ourself.
Changing the exhaust pipe, do you mean changing the muffler to a pipe?
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:31 PM
  #57  
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No C, Harry was saying that the wall thickness on the provided exhaust pipe is too thick, reducing the flow. I think he found a pipe with the same threads and a larger inside diameter (thinner walls) which gave him more power. Since your engine is pumped, you could run just a straight pipe and no muffler and gain some power. That is if the other people at your field don't throw rocks at you.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:54 PM
  #58  
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Na...I dont think that would be a problem. Here in Sweden people will always love a good grunt factor. Thing is if I would stand it needing to get close in order to operate this pice of art machine.
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:49 PM
  #59  
Harry Lagman
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Sorry I'm late into this thread. Tim, you're right - I got a significant improvement by fitting an aftermarket thin walled header, but to my .91 Surpass 2 pumper. The .91 exhaust port uses an 11mm thread.

I don't have first hand experience with the larger FS 1.20 S3 (14mm exh port thread) but it may be worth looking at exhaust mods as a peformance boost opportunity with that engine, because it steps down from 14mm thread to 11mm thread at the 'joint". Perhaps an owner of this engine may chime in.

In keeping with the thread, I have the following OS engines:

Pet .099
FGR .60 Blackhead
FSR .60
VF .46
VF .61 (two of these - one with 7D carb, the other with a 7DV carb)
Surpass 2 .91 pump
Surpass .52


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Old 01-19-2006, 05:45 AM
  #60  
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Is there a simple solution to this? Meaning if there is a good substitute on the market to change to? One thing I absolutly love about this engine is its sound. I guess the stock muffler has some to do with it.
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Old 01-19-2006, 12:45 PM
  #61  
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ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger




It isn't how many OS engines you have/had - it is how much you appreciate them...
Ed, I appreciate all my engines, even the ones others hate.
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Old 01-19-2006, 01:45 PM
  #62  
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ORIGINAL: Kmot


ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger




It isn't how many OS engines you have/had - it is how much you appreciate them...
Ed, I appreciate all my engines, even the ones others hate.

---------------


Me too.

I even loved my HP.49VT, which, surprisingly enough, turned out to be a really good engine, in spite of all the glares I received at the field, BEFORE it flew the model. Afterwards, many of the glarers had questions about it.

No, it wasn't the most powerful engine available, but it did provide solid, reliable power for the Kadet Senior it was mounted on. Who could ask for more?
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Old 01-19-2006, 04:31 PM
  #63  
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Here's my list beginning in about 1965.

2 Strokes
H 35 C
S 30 R/C
H 40 P
H 40 R/C times 3
H 40 FSR times 2
H 45 FSR times 2
H 60 FGP times 6
H 60 FSR
H 80 R/C

4 Strokes
FS 52 times 2
FS 61
FS 70
FS 91
FS 120 times 3
FS 120 II Twin

The only dud was the H 40 P in which the unbushed connecting rod ends went egg shaped in about 3 hours running time. This engine was made to compete with the front intake K & B's in the sport pylon racing class, which it did quite sucessfuly, however longevity was not one of it's strong points.

Still using the H 60 FGP's and H 45 FSR's and the 4 strokes, all of which have many hours of running time.
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Old 01-19-2006, 07:06 PM
  #64  
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I've had a few, but not all of them were wonderfull.

25 FP -- runs well
H 35C -- ran well
40 LA RC-- ran well, but desperately weak
46 LA RC x 2 -- one good runner & one flame-out queen
46 SF ABC x 4 -- all really good
46 SF ringed -- another really good engine
46 FX x 2 -- one flame-out queen & one peeled liner
61 FX -- heavy & not very powerfull

Of the bunch, I still own the 25 FP & a 46 LA. I should have kept the SF's.
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Old 01-19-2006, 08:47 PM
  #65  
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I see that I'm not the only one here with the supercharged 120. Here's my list:

FP 40 times 2
FX 40 parted out after second liner peeled
SR 40 what a great old engine!
FSR 45 was a heli converted to fixed wing - nice runner
SF 45 brand new
FX 46
FS 48 Surpass
FS 91 Surpass
FS 120 II Surpass Pumped - great running engine
FS 120 SP Supercharged Not such a great runner, but unique

And coming - an FX 91 for my TF P-51.

No engines are perfect, but I love my OS collection! I wouldn't be nearly as into R/C if I couldn't run them.

Sandy T
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Old 01-20-2006, 01:00 AM
  #66  
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The 1.20SP is one of my favorite engines in the lineup, I've have or had four of them. I've been an OS fan for many years but the SP is the coolest of the lot. I ran a pair of them in a couple of pattern planes in the mid and late '90's and had great success. Once I figured out it wasn't a YS (thank God!!!) and didn't operate like one it was easy to make it go. Mine would outpull any YS 1.20 except maybe the very last ones made, I forget the designation, the one that kept blowing up. We found out that the OS was happiest running around 9800 on the ground on 20% Cool Power pattern brew. Or 25%. Or 30%. Open the needle about 3/4 of a turn, lean the idle all the way and never touch it again and go fly. It has been the most trouble free 4-stroker I've ever had. I'm putting one in an old Rubin now.

As for other OS engines well, I have some .61 FSR's with Shadel piston/sleeve sets that run as well anything new on the market, better than the FX series. FP's, LA's and some very old smaller engines that just keep running. I haven't found any other brand that offers me the performance and long life I get from OS.

Rick H.
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Old 01-20-2006, 05:29 PM
  #67  
Sandyt
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Rick

Regarding the 120SP - did you have trouble with yours dying when you roll the airplane? Mine is in an Ultrasport 1000, and it pulls it very nicely, but when I roll the plane, the engine goes rich and often dies. It acts like there is a pool of liquid fuel stuck in the supercharger that runs into the intake manifold when the engine is upside down.

Sandy
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Old 01-21-2006, 12:21 PM
  #68  
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No Sandy I didn't have that kind of problem at all. Mine haved always been mounted inverted and performed just fine. I did notice though that when I did a point roll or knife edge that when the plane when from the point to upright the engine would sort of 'burp' for an instant and then keep going. This would happen going to upright from both right and left knife edges or point rolls. It never happened when the plane went from point to inverted, only upright. The engine never quit when this happened. It also didn't happen in a rgular roll.

I don't know how much run time your engine has but several of us here discovered some things about these engines over 4 or 5 years of competing with them: They all need about 5 gallons of fuel run through them before they really run like they should. Until then they will sputter and snort, occasionally quit at a bad time, that sort of thing. They also didn't develop max power until then. Sort of a long break-in period. Once it breaks in completely it will make good power and be trouble free all at the same time.

We ran these engines with some combination of four stroke pipe from Macs or Hatori or whatever just because of noise rules at contests. You can also run a .20 (yes, a .20, NOT a 1.20) size Macs or other brand 2 stroke pipe and it will run fine. No tuned pipe effect of course on a four stroke but it is an economical and effective way to get the job done. I've also run them quite a bit on the factory muffler which has always been troublesome. We keep losing the mufflers and they aren't cheap. Finally went to a flexible header and called it good.

I run these engines basically as follows: Cool Power pattern fuel, 20-30% nitro but never less than 15% as it just doesn't run very well with less. If you got it new it should have 2 needles with it. Use the finer point one. You should end up at about 3/4 of one turn open give or take a click by the time the engine is broken in. You won't need to make much adjustment after that time ever. Idle mixture should be as lean as you can get it and that won't need adjustment again either. It will still idle a little rich. OS Type F plug. APC 14x10 or 15x10 prop. You should be able to tach it between 9400 and 9800 on the ground which will run it over 10K in the air. Don't worry, it is made to run like that. Remember that the blower has to spin fast to make boost unlike the way YS engines make their boost and run around 8200-ish. This engine uses less prop and spins it faster. There are many other plugs and props and fuels that run well in this motor of course but once I got it where I wanted it I didn't feel like experimenting further.

If you like to tinker try this: Pull the head and with a small grinder like a dremel, grind out the ridge inside the head and make it dome shaped. Be careful not to take out too much but when you are done you'll have a hemi engine. It runs even better. Dick Hanson gave me that one and he should know. Voids the warranty though. I don't know why they didn't just make it that way.

Anyway, it's a great motor and you should get many hundreds of max performance flights on it without any real problem. Make sure you run the fuel out at the end of the day. With the pump, regulator and all of that plumbing it will idle 30 or more seconds after you pull the fuel line. If you need to make needle adjustments of more than a couple of clicks, there is a problem elsewhere. If you are making 1/4 turn adjustments there is a problem other than mixture. Whatever you do, don't take the blower apart unless you can do some precision work when it putting it back together. Tolerances are tight and it's easy to get wrong. Wait until you wear it out and then take it apart. I don't think you are having a problem with fuel puddling in the blower housing because there isn't enough room for it. If you run into anything else let me know but this is everything I could think of off hand. Probably more than you really wanted to know.

Rick H.
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Old 01-21-2006, 03:26 PM
  #69  
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Rick

You are dead wrong - that's exactly the kind of information I was looking for! I don't want to take over this thread, but I'll tell you my history with this engine. It came with the US1000, which I bought used about 6 or 7 years ago (used but hardly flown). I first tried Wildcat 20/20 fuel, but I couldn't get it to run well on it. If I tried to get near to the maximum ground RPM, it would detonate and throw the prop, and if I ran it rich it had the dying problem I have already mentioned. I had read about the long breakin, and theorizing that the reason they ran better after such a long time was that they were actually wearing out a little, I pulled the head and added a second head gasket to lower the compression ratio a little. This actually helped quite a bit. I also tried 15% fuel and this also helped keep the prop on. I cornered Mike McConville, who used to fly pattern with them, but he didn't remember much about his setup.

After a couple dozen dead-sticks, I finally had a real bad landing and ripped one wingtip off, so I parked it for about 5 years. I was showing someone how easy it was to kill the engine by rolling the plane, and sure enough it did! I was stupidly too near the ground to get back to the runway. Anyway, last fall I finally got around to fixing the wing and so I flew the plane a couple of times. Pretty much the same old story. Luckily. however, I live in the center of the Radio Control Universe here in Champaign, IL, and one of the guys from Hobby Services was at the field. He asked me to send in the engine for testing, which I did, and they installed a new carb on it. I only got a chance to fly it twice before it got too cold, and one time it seemed better, but the second time it quit.

Anyway, I was glad to hear from another owner who has had better experiences than I have had. I think that I need to put some more hours on it and take a look at the low end needle. It has always idled so well that I doubt that I ever touched the low end on it. I certainly have not touched it on the new carb. I don't think that I will grind on the combustion chamber just yet.

Thanks again for taking the time to give me your experiences. These forums can be very helpful!

Sandy T
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:44 PM
  #70  
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Come to think of it, that engine did go through a couple of carb mods over time. I forget the designation but one I think was called the C4 carb and ran very well. I believe at least one of the changes was in the size of the hole in the carb barrell to a smaller one. Still, I don't recall having nearly that much trouble with mine and never the problem you mention.

Sort of a funny story, a guy who was building pattern planes for a living at the time had bought one of these engines and was completely frustrated with it. Said he couldn't get it to run but never said what it was doing. He sold it for less than $200 nearly new just to get rid of it. The next weekend we had it in a Typhoon running just fine. We set it up as I described and the guy just stood there watching and shaking his head. Silly YS people.

It's funny, as many YS engines as there are out there and were in the mid 90's and as much as people turned their noses up at the OS, there were a bunch of us using them in Alabama to bring home the wood. I think Chip Hyde was using them as well.

Rick H.
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:31 AM
  #71  
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Rick,

I have a 120 SP in the box, so I am taking notes. Just as a point of reference, what is the distinction between a YS and this SP as far as tuning is concerned, by the comments you have made?

Thanks!

-Tom
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Old 01-24-2006, 03:01 AM
  #72  
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Old 01-24-2006, 10:32 PM
  #73  
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ORIGINAL: piper_chuck

OS 25 FSR
OS 25F ABC
OS 28F Heli
OS 30 four stroke times 2
OS 32 FSR
OS 70 Surpass II
Yes, I realize there's a big gap, I prefer small engines.
It's with a bit of sadness that I report I no longer have the first 3 engines on my list. The .25 FSR was my second airplane engine and still ran great. However, all is not lost. Something new is intransit. When it arrives, my new list will be:
OS 21 XM Outboard
OS 30 four stroke times 2
OS 32 FSR
OS 70 Surpass II

Time to get that new boat running!
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Old 01-25-2006, 02:44 PM
  #74  
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Had a .46 FX now have a .46 AX. Runs great. I have a question about the .46 AX. What prop would you recomend for best thrust? I have it in a Funtana 40 and am hoping I can find a prop that will hover with something left for pullout. Have tried a 12.25x3.75, a 12x4 and currently have a 12x5 on it. Any suggestions? Randy.
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Old 01-25-2006, 04:33 PM
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Most people use the 12.25 X 3.75

enjoy,

Jim
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