OS engines users Club
#551
Regarding store bought washers, if you go for the ones for automotive, they are usually Grade 8, which is about as hard as you're going to get. For the smaller engines, I've found the standard hardware lower grade sufficiently strong, plus they are easier to drill. Vintage engines I have, parts are sometimes hard to come by and when they are available, seems some folks want more than for what they are worth. I'm less concerned about authenticity and more concerned with functions.
Glad to see you were able to find what you were looking for without having to pay more for a set with other part you don't need.
Glad to see you were able to find what you were looking for without having to pay more for a set with other part you don't need.
#553
Grade 8 bolts and hardware are usually located in the automotive hardware bins (at least here with Lowes). Usually the selection is better at some of your better auto parts stores that have a good sized selection. Automotive grade washers with 5/16" center hole is usually a good size, and the outer diameters along with the thickness for a flat washer should be thick enough I'd think for model prop use, but YMMV (your mileage may vary).
Last edited by GallopingGhostler; 03-09-2014 at 08:35 PM. Reason: Spelling correction.
#555
Look, or ask for automotive washers that are used under bolts or nuts holding heads or manifolds to the block. They are precise, flat, hard, and thicker than normal washers. Equal in my opinion to mfr. supplied prop washers. You may have to go to a parts supplier that has rebuild hardware, rather than pep boys or advance auto.
#558
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Thanks to my daughter I bought this OS .56 fourstroke. engine. This thing really hates to be rich, it hammers like a Mack 711 when even a little rich. I gave it a 70 minute run at various rpm starting with 10 minutes at 4,000. Rotated the carb for better throttle line up.
OS .56
Prop==Bolly 12.5x6
Fuel==Wildcat 10% with 18% synthetic lube
Plug==OS-f
Max rpm=9.900
Idle 2,200
Muffler==Stock, nice sound and very quiet.
OS .56
Prop==Bolly 12.5x6
Fuel==Wildcat 10% with 18% synthetic lube
Plug==OS-f
Max rpm=9.900
Idle 2,200
Muffler==Stock, nice sound and very quiet.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 05-18-2015 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Add content
#561
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Yes Mike, it has the closed system, it is still spotless after 70 minutes, the reason I mentioned the knocking when rich is that the instructions suggest controlling the rpm by richening the HS needle. Not possible to do it that way, the knocking is scary and real.
James, it sounds strong, when opening the throttle the acceleration is quick. This is an eerily smooth engine, I may stick it on an RCM 40 just to get it in the air.
When I get another hour on it I plan to install a 10 x 1 TurboHeader and see if it will respond like a Saito.
James, it sounds strong, when opening the throttle the acceleration is quick. This is an eerily smooth engine, I may stick it on an RCM 40 just to get it in the air.
When I get another hour on it I plan to install a 10 x 1 TurboHeader and see if it will respond like a Saito.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 05-18-2015 at 02:57 PM.
#562
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Hobbsy,
Seems that I remember that OS advertised that these engines needed almost no break in. You were supposed to fly them right out of the box. I wondered when I read the ad if the engines would wear out sooner, but I have heard nothing to that effect.
James
Seems that I remember that OS advertised that these engines needed almost no break in. You were supposed to fly them right out of the box. I wondered when I read the ad if the engines would wear out sooner, but I have heard nothing to that effect.
James
#564
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For the most part, you're right Hobbsy... but there are still stresses that are put into the pieces from drilling, turning, etc. They're much better now fight out of the box but after some running in, dimensions change, if even on a very small scale. And those need to be 'run in'
Just my $.02
Bob
Just my $.02
Bob
#566
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Thanks Bob, yep I'm a believer in the fact that "it ain't an engine until it runs." Or it's just a bunch of parts until you run it. I was surprised just now how loose the rocker settings got during the break in. Never had a Saito or Enya change that much. Now, what to do about after run oil. While I had the rocker cover off I flipped it, that little port really hisses when flipped and it does indeed pump oil up to the rocker area then into the intake stream.
#568
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I set them before I ran it and after, that was quite a change. I just finished running it for another hour at various rpm mostly above 7,000, no change at all this time. I'll be back.
#571
Hi Hobbsy ,
If your looking for a great (inexpensive) way to get your 56FSA into the air , you may want to look into the GP "Escapade" (smaller of the two versions , the larger is more suited to a 90 four stroke I believe) . This ARF cost around $100 when I bought it some years back , Hell the on board glow driver I put in it cost almost as much ! The model truly flies like it was made for this engine and is one of my favorite small planes . I did customize mine somewhat with the on board glow (only cause I hate fiddling with glow sticks) , lost model locator , real aluminum spinner with a wooden prop , removed all the "nascar looking" stickers from it , better wheels , and of course removed the pilot figure cause I tell everyone when asked why no pilot ; "Thats MY seat" to which they think I've really gone over the edge ...
If your looking for a great (inexpensive) way to get your 56FSA into the air , you may want to look into the GP "Escapade" (smaller of the two versions , the larger is more suited to a 90 four stroke I believe) . This ARF cost around $100 when I bought it some years back , Hell the on board glow driver I put in it cost almost as much ! The model truly flies like it was made for this engine and is one of my favorite small planes . I did customize mine somewhat with the on board glow (only cause I hate fiddling with glow sticks) , lost model locator , real aluminum spinner with a wooden prop , removed all the "nascar looking" stickers from it , better wheels , and of course removed the pilot figure cause I tell everyone when asked why no pilot ; "Thats MY seat" to which they think I've really gone over the edge ...
#573
Hi Hobbsy ,
If your looking for a great (inexpensive) way to get your 56FSA into the air , you may want to look into the GP "Escapade" (smaller of the two versions , the larger is more suited to a 90 four stroke I believe) . This ARF cost around $100 when I bought it some years back , Hell the on board glow driver I put in it cost almost as much ! The model truly flies like it was made for this engine and is one of my favorite small planes . I did customize mine somewhat with the on board glow (only cause I hate fiddling with glow sticks) , lost model locator , real aluminum spinner with a wooden prop , removed all the "nascar looking" stickers from it , better wheels , and of course removed the pilot figure cause I tell everyone when asked why no pilot ; "Thats MY seat" to which they think I've really gone over the edge ...
If your looking for a great (inexpensive) way to get your 56FSA into the air , you may want to look into the GP "Escapade" (smaller of the two versions , the larger is more suited to a 90 four stroke I believe) . This ARF cost around $100 when I bought it some years back , Hell the on board glow driver I put in it cost almost as much ! The model truly flies like it was made for this engine and is one of my favorite small planes . I did customize mine somewhat with the on board glow (only cause I hate fiddling with glow sticks) , lost model locator , real aluminum spinner with a wooden prop , removed all the "nascar looking" stickers from it , better wheels , and of course removed the pilot figure cause I tell everyone when asked why no pilot ; "Thats MY seat" to which they think I've really gone over the edge ...
I presently have an OS 70 FS Surpass II and it also knocks like a jackhammer if running rich. But it has excellent performance and has never failed me in the past 6 years. I crashed the plane it was in a couple of years ago and damaged the carb. I replaced it with the newer Alpha series car with the same part number but with a letter "A" appended to the part number (for Alpha series). The only difference between the 70 Surpass II and 72 Alpha carb parts is the Alpha has an extension at the inlet and $5 extra. I like the carb extension since it reduces fuel spilling out and it seems to provide more power, but I have not measured the difference to verify.
I also recently purchased a used Ulra Sport 40 that has an OS 46 SF, ringed. I plan on flying it this weekend. Bench testing it with a 10x8 APC prop and 15% nitro achieved around 11,700 rpm's.
I previously owned an OS 55AX that ran great until the piston liner peeled on me last year. From now on I will stick to ringed OS engines ONLY.
Last edited by hsukaria; 05-20-2015 at 06:22 AM.
#574
How do you like the OS 32SX? Never owned one or seen them in action, but I heard good things about them. I would love to get one on a delta wing and tuned pipe like you show.
#575
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Since I've been in the OS mode the last few days, I dug out my LA .46 which has mostly ran as a Diesel conversion. Very user friendly engine.
OS=== =LA .46
Prop===Zoar 11x6 as per recommendation by OS
Plug===Fox #8
Fuel===WildCat 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Max rpm with stock muffler==11,222
Max rpm with Bisson Pitts===11,467
Idle 2,200
OS=== =LA .46
Prop===Zoar 11x6 as per recommendation by OS
Plug===Fox #8
Fuel===WildCat 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Max rpm with stock muffler==11,222
Max rpm with Bisson Pitts===11,467
Idle 2,200