lleach1

My Feedback: (6)

Jim, Thanks for the reply. It did help. LEL

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Cool !!!

Jim

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Sorry if this has been discussed, but I Searched all of RCU and this thread and nothing comes up for "H80" in any form.
I just acquired an O.S. H80 engine (rear carb) and it has a broken throttle stop/barrel retention screw. I would like to obtain the replacement screw and need a parts break down or simply the part number?
Anyone?
THANKS.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Can you get a reading/label off of the carb? That is, is it a separate carb, such as an A3, etc. (I used that model just for the sake of argument)?? Then you might be able to look up the Carb instead of the engine to get the parts. I realize that this is a rear carb that might have its body built into the engine crankcase but it's worth a shot.

Just my $.02

Bob

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

OS Max-H 80

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/golden-age-vintage-antique-rc-196/6868002-os-max-h80-r-c-1970-stuff-i-need-manual.html

r ward

OS club,.....great!,..... this might be the right place to ask. does anyone have a stock muffler for a .61 SF engine they would part with? it's got a number 744 (model number) on it, at the mounting flange, where the exhaust runner meets the engine's exhaust port. the two mounting holes in the muffler flange, are threaded and spaced 42mm. on center. mine is suffering from a cracked, (and now broken off) flange and there is no shop around me, willing to TIG it up claiming the broken off "ear" part, is too small and will turn into a molten blob when welded.
it's a bit harder to find a muffler for this engine on line than I thought it would be.
thanks for looking.
r ward.

aspeed

Untitled Document You could try an aftermarket pipe and header, or some other brand like the Magnum, Webra, or whatever may fit. Some are bolt on, some bolt through.which could be a problem. Nuts on the back may work. An adaptor may be made up for some other setups.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

When I saw those headers from aspeed, it made me think of those old mousse-can mufflers. Remember them??

Bob

aspeed

Sure, pay less than a muffler, and get more power than an open exhaust, and way more power than a muffler. Not quite the overall power of a real pipe, but a broader range. Gives some metalworking part of the hobby a bit of exercise too. The RTV silicone is kind of crude though.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Designing mufflers can be very interesting with good payoffs in extra power. I would say go for it.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I never heard about how quiet a Mousse Can Muffler was compared to standard mufflers??? Does anyone have any experience with them?

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Mousses,

I found these on Google Images, I didn't read them so some of them may over lap on each other

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...alumiweld.html

Mousse Can Muffler

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...can-logic.html

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...can-logic.html

My Mousse Can Pipe..Please add yours - Page 2 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...html?styleid=7

Jim

prewarvtwin

Anyone help with any leads to find a OS FS 91s Valve spring. Seems they are discontinued and nobody has any. Can you use a substitute ? from other engine or buy spring lengths and make your own? Cheers

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWY25&P=ML

A possibility, the OS FS 70 through 91 S II all take the same springs.

smkrcflyer

I recently got two OS FT-160’s, one is on a Great Planes PT17 and the other one is on a Sig Rascal 110. I haven't started either one yet. So far I checked the valves to make sure there working properly and the carb.
I read that the piston rods are pron to braking. Anything I can check on them or do to reduce the chance of this?
What fuel works good? The manual says 18% oil and nito of 5-20%.
What about prop size? Manual says 16x8, 18x6 or 20x6.
Do I need to use On-board glow driver?

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

here, if you are sure that your engines are the FT, then this first link should help with picking a Prop,,

as you will see in these links many people that have been flying a long time have come to know that a Loaded engine is a happy engine, the guys I am talking about use larger props, this is because your engine's Peak Torque Point is where your engine is Most Efficient, and an engine's Peak Torque Point is much lower than it's Peak HP Point, remember>, Torque is Twisting Power, and HP is RPM per Time (more on this below),

OS Gemini FT-160

this link is for the older engine,
OS Gemini 160


now note> that most wood props load an engine more than an equal sized APC prop would,,,, EXAMPLE> on my (Long Gone) Magnum 180 4St>, APC 17x8W 8,800) Xoar Sport 17x8 8,200) Zoar Sport 17x6 8,600) (note that the Zoar 17x6 peaked out 200 RPM below the Plastic APC 17x8),, all numbers were Peaked RPM numbers,

so, if you want to use a wood prop you would have to go down in pitch by 2 or 4, or down in diameter by 1 inch when comparing Wood Props to an APC,

Rod Braking,
I haven't read about these engines braking Rods, but you want your engine to run smooth, and this brings us to Glow Plugs, most off-the-shelf Glow Engines run smother when using a Hot Plug, but you most likely will loose some RPM with a Hotter Plug (maybe 300 to 600 RPM), but, a Hotter Plug will help with a larger diameter Prop because the Hotter Plug advances the Timing giving more Torque, so will burn more fuel under load at lower RPM,, remember a larger diameter Prop give more of a "Flywheel Effect", it accelerates slower so the fuel has a better chance to burn all out,


note that a smaller Prop with a lot of Pitch will also load an engine more, but not as well at lower RPM's than the larger diameter Prop will, and your Planes are not Racing Planes,

never-never-never buy cheap Plugs, most cheap plugs use a Coated Coil, they just don't work as well,
I have heard that K&B makes the hottest 4St plug but that is just hearsay for me, yet K&B does make 2 different 4St Plugs (Hot and Hotter),


Do I need to use On-board glow driver?
well they are adjustable to turn on/off at different RPM's, and that can really help at lower RPM when coming off the throttle, and that will also help when using larger Props because they will help by starting the Flame Front sooner and burn more fuel under loads, it will also help when using a lower Nitro percentage like 0% or 5%,,


Note that tuning your engine with the On-Board Glow Driver turned-off (off) is a Must Do thing,

The manual says 18% oil and nitro of 5-20%
myself, with those percentages/and in your Big planes with Big Props I would burn 15%, yet many-many-many others would be just as happy running 10%

good luck ! hope I have helped !

Jim

smkrcflyer

Thank you, Jim

controlliner

1 OS Max 15
1 OS Max 20 (exhaust baffle)
1 OS max 30 (exhaust baffle)
1 OS 40 FP (ABN version) looking for iron piston liner set
1 OS 40 LA
1 OS 20 Four Stroke
5 OS .40 Four Stroke (first version)
1 56 FS A (wicked power in a small package)
1 OS 61 Four Stroke

BullardRM

My Feedback: (39)

I am looking for a carb that fits a OS 40. Please help. Even the rotary valve would work.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Which one??? OS 40SF, 40FX?? I'm not sure if there was ever an AX

123Cat

Ive got a crossflow 15 that needs a P/L what is the best bet , will anything else fit , Enya maybe ? Thanks

andernamen

My Feedback: (3)

Does anyone know what goes between the piston and the wrist pin? Is it simply an O ring? I have a 61 FX that was cleaned in anti freeze and these swelled up and had to be burned out.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

click on my link, see #4 (Wrist Pin Retainers), they are a simple spring that hold the Wrist Pin in, I don't know what you mean that they swelled up and that you had to burn them out, some engines use a small Teflon Pad that fit's inside the hole, but I don't remember my 61FX having them

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/64...page=31#manual

BTW, want to buy another 61FX

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

here you go
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCS91&P=7

Jim

andernamen

My Feedback: (3)

No, I'm sorry, I meant on the inside between the con rod and piston with the wrist pin running through. I think they are O rings?