RCV Engines
#226
RE: RCV Engines
I think that there are a number of factors to consider. The size and shape of the cowl, the type of plane, sport or scale, and the type of flying would be the most likely contributors.
For me, the two biggest things the SP has for it is the narrow profile, and the large prop. These are important for a scale subject.
For a sport plane, the CD with it's low head and conventional prop size/rpm would probably be the better choice.
Scott
For me, the two biggest things the SP has for it is the narrow profile, and the large prop. These are important for a scale subject.
For a sport plane, the CD with it's low head and conventional prop size/rpm would probably be the better choice.
Scott
#227
RE: RCV Engines
Can you run wooden props on the SP series? Seems like I heard they need the mass of a composite prop. I'd like to be able to do WWI with near-scale props, but they would have to be wood.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Thanks in advance,
Jim
#228
RE: RCV Engines
I had bought an RCV 58 CD, few years back direct from RCV and it was stored preserved with oil. Recently I started to run it in before mounting it on a model. The model was stored with 2stroke engine oil (as recommended by Laser Engines and flushed off before being run in). The engine starts fine.
I am using 18% all synth (Klotz) and 5% nitro fuel. Running in is on a 12x6 APC prop
Even while running in the engine at recommended 6000 RPM the bottom of the case gets very hot, so much so that you can not put your finger on it. My experience with other engines has been that if the engine is running well the case bottom remains cool where you can keep your finger (only after shutting the engine down does the case bottom temp goes up).
The question for all RCV owners/runners is this normal with RCV? I have about 45 minutes of run time on the engine now and entire running was below 6000 RPM
Appreciate any help or pointers
I am using 18% all synth (Klotz) and 5% nitro fuel. Running in is on a 12x6 APC prop
Even while running in the engine at recommended 6000 RPM the bottom of the case gets very hot, so much so that you can not put your finger on it. My experience with other engines has been that if the engine is running well the case bottom remains cool where you can keep your finger (only after shutting the engine down does the case bottom temp goes up).
The question for all RCV owners/runners is this normal with RCV? I have about 45 minutes of run time on the engine now and entire running was below 6000 RPM
Appreciate any help or pointers
#229
RE: RCV Engines
I have two 58CD engines, but honestly, I do not remember ever touching the bottom of the crankcase to see how hot it is.
As long as the engines ran OK, I never worried about it. I normally don't go touching the hot engine to see how hot it is. If I do want to know I use a infrared digital thermometer.
As long as the engines ran OK, I never worried about it. I normally don't go touching the hot engine to see how hot it is. If I do want to know I use a infrared digital thermometer.
#230
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RE: RCV Engines
I can't comment for sure on the 58CD, however, I have been running the 91CD for about 3-4 years now, and it runs a bit on the Hot side, not as Hot as reported with the 'RCV SP Series Engines'; other than that, my engine runs well, I don't think it puts out the power that other normal 91 size 4 Strokes do such as the OS-90.
#233
Resurrecting an old thread on hope of some answer. I had purchased a 58 CD way back. It was run a few tanks on bench and then went into storage and that too without proper lube up. Recent too out and realised the bearings were all notchy. So changed all the bearings. However on assembly I notice (and hear) a very distinct gear noise. I don't recall this noise in the engine before. I also checked my NIB 91CD and do not hear the noise..
Should I run the engine as is? Or is there something not matching up that needs correction?
Should I run the engine as is? Or is there something not matching up that needs correction?
#234
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I am currently resurrecting a couple of old CD58’s after a few years of neglect.
They all have quite a few hours on them and the gear noise is very evident.
In particular if turning over by hand there is a spot in the cycle, I am thinking the driven 1/4, where the gear noise is loudest.
Considering the abuse I have put these motors through they just keep on keeping on.
They all have quite a few hours on them and the gear noise is very evident.
In particular if turning over by hand there is a spot in the cycle, I am thinking the driven 1/4, where the gear noise is loudest.
Considering the abuse I have put these motors through they just keep on keeping on.
#235
mch...All I can tell you about gear noise, on my 60 SP, is that after about 8 or 10 flights I suddenly noticed it was making less noise. Apparently it takes awhile for the gears to get broken in. No idea how this might apply to your re-aasembled 58 CD. I'm surprised you don't hear gear noise on your 91 CD.
#237
Hello! again, I am writing to update on the 58 CD that you good folks helped me with.
Ran the engine on the test bench, since the gear noise was a concern, squirted a good amount of light oil through the breather and also some through the exhaust port to ensure that the parts had some lubrication on first start.
The engine was mounted on the test bench, a Graupner 12x5 prop, tank filled with my standard brew of 16% synthetic and 5% Nitro and an oldish OS F plug installed.
Engine was given good whirl with an electric starter to expel any excess light oil in the case, tank was connected to the carb, glow plug lit and the engine soon came to life (needles needed correct opening). The engine was run on varying slightly rich setting in 5 minutes spells till the tank was emptied. During the second tank run, slightly more aggressive leaning of the needle was attempted and the engine run for the same 5 minute spells. During one such peaked needle setting tach showed 10400 on the prop. That put a big smile on my face.
Subsequently,yesterday the engine was run for two more tanks using an APC 12x6 and the tach recorded a steady 9200.
Happy with the engine. The engine due to it's design does get hotter compared to conventional four strokes. With that in mind it will go side mounted on a Goldberg Anniversary Cub that is in the process of refurbishing. That way the engine will have adequate cooling and will have more than enough power for the model.
Ran the engine on the test bench, since the gear noise was a concern, squirted a good amount of light oil through the breather and also some through the exhaust port to ensure that the parts had some lubrication on first start.
The engine was mounted on the test bench, a Graupner 12x5 prop, tank filled with my standard brew of 16% synthetic and 5% Nitro and an oldish OS F plug installed.
Engine was given good whirl with an electric starter to expel any excess light oil in the case, tank was connected to the carb, glow plug lit and the engine soon came to life (needles needed correct opening). The engine was run on varying slightly rich setting in 5 minutes spells till the tank was emptied. During the second tank run, slightly more aggressive leaning of the needle was attempted and the engine run for the same 5 minute spells. During one such peaked needle setting tach showed 10400 on the prop. That put a big smile on my face.
Subsequently,yesterday the engine was run for two more tanks using an APC 12x6 and the tach recorded a steady 9200.
Happy with the engine. The engine due to it's design does get hotter compared to conventional four strokes. With that in mind it will go side mounted on a Goldberg Anniversary Cub that is in the process of refurbishing. That way the engine will have adequate cooling and will have more than enough power for the model.
#238
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Waking the dead. I have a opportunity to get 2 RCV 60 SP that have been ran and owner says they are locked. I search and have only seen two sold in the US in the last year. They sold new for under $200($195 and $125). I have had locked engines before 2c/4c and was able to work through the locked issues. A few questions
- What prices should I be looking at for a used/locked 60 SP, no good examples with the rare type engine?
- Any major concerns with an SP being locked that are different than your normal 2c/4c?
- What prices should I be looking at for a used/locked 60 SP, no good examples with the rare type engine?
- Any major concerns with an SP being locked that are different than your normal 2c/4c?
#239
Senior Member
Watch the lube content, 16% is recommended, I owned a 90SP and a 58CD, 18% was too much and the vent outflow was a constant flow. Mine, (the 58) turned a 13x6 at 9,000 even. I got rid of the 90 SP fairly quickly.
#243
Waking the dead. I have a opportunity to get 2 RCV 60 SP that have been ran and owner says they are locked. I search and have only seen two sold in the US in the last year. They sold new for under $200($195 and $125). I have had locked engines before 2c/4c and was able to work through the locked issues. A few questions
- What prices should I be looking at for a used/locked 60 SP, no good examples with the rare type engine?
- Any major concerns with an SP being locked that are different than your normal 2c/4c?
- What prices should I be looking at for a used/locked 60 SP, no good examples with the rare type engine?
- Any major concerns with an SP being locked that are different than your normal 2c/4c?
Scott
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saramos (09-07-2023)
#245
Rowdog, the SP won't be very difficult to disassemble and check. My hunch is that it is frozen with congealed oil and worst case knackered bearings. Replacing bearings should not be a problem. Similarly, after market piston ring and gaskets should also be available.
If it was me, I would get them at a favorable price and work on them
If it was me, I would get them at a favorable price and work on them
The following users liked this post:
rowdog_14 (10-14-2023)
#246
My Feedback: (5)
Rowdog, the SP won't be very difficult to disassemble and check. My hunch is that it is frozen with congealed oil and worst case knackered bearings. Replacing bearings should not be a problem. Similarly, after market piston ring and gaskets should also be available.
If it was me, I would get them at a favorable price and work on them
If it was me, I would get them at a favorable price and work on them
#249
Those SP models --actually, all the RCV engines-- sure are interesting! I'm sort of an engine nut and I bought a 91CD many years ago when I saw them at an R/C show. I ran it on the test stand and broke it in but never ended up mounting it in an airplane. It was a little bit lower on power than my Saito .91 but I didn't buy it based on power. Someday...
#250
My Feedback: (5)
Those SP models --actually, all the RCV engines-- sure are interesting! I'm sort of an engine nut and I bought a 91CD many years ago when I saw them at an R/C show. I ran it on the test stand and broke it in but never ended up mounting it in an airplane. It was a little bit lower on power than my Saito .91 but I didn't buy it based on power. Someday...