Red B.

Hi!
I have a couple of ST-3000 engines that runs very nicely. So far I have had no problems, not even with the original carb which is the part that seem to cause problems for some people. Here are a few of my tips that has worked great for me:

1) Give the engine a good break-in. Not the "one-tank" break-in that is common nowadays, but rather a gallon or more of normal oil content fuel (with little or no nitro). In my experience the engine takes a long time to run in but once that is done, they seem to last "forever".

2) Use the break in period to get the carb properly adjusted. You have to readjust it slightly at the end of the break-in period when you start to use low oil content fuel. I seldom have to re-tune my engines more than a couple of clicks depending on the ambient temperature/humidity.

2) Once run-in use fuel with approx 10-12% oil and no or only a little nitro (I have tried 5%). Any more oil than that will cause the engine to run rough. N.B., this does NOT apply to the ST-2300, which needs about 18% of oil.

4) After some trial and error I have elected to use OS F four stroke glow plugs for my engines. Works like a charm.

3) Use large I.D. fuel tubing.

4) Use a rather big prop. 18x10 is a good starting point for a ST-3000. You should aim for a static rpm around 7000 RPM (or a little below with a low pitch prop). Once in the air the engine will unload and deliver max bhp at around 7500 RPM.

I don't know the ultimate reason that some people have problems with their ST:s but in the cases I have come across the main reasons (excluding fuel) have been insufficient break-in and/or lack of knowledge of when it comes to tuning the carb.

I hope this is of some help,

/Red B.

whatwheel

Thanks Ed, I feel better now about trying a 2300 , I don't have a problem with working with a engine to get good results,thanks again for the info.
Glenn.

whatwheel

Hi Red B,

I really appreciate the time you took to post all the info , I think that now I will get a 2300 and work with it because this is the one that really fills my needs,this is great.

Thanks, Glenn.

SLJ2137694

My Feedback: (33)

The ST 2300 uses 18-20% oil fuel, this is from the manual that comes with the engine. I don't have a larger ST so can't say what they use for oil content.

mikeboyd

Isn't it funny. I tried 4 stroke plugs and had nothing but problems, swithched to idle bar plugs and the problems went away, especially in inverted engine applications. I've had four 2300's, a 3250, .91 and .51. All ran like swiss watches ONCE THEY WERE BROKEN IN. The manual has a good break-in procedure. If you follow it, then follow the advice on RCU from the gent from Hobby Services, you won't be disappointed with your ST. Like the guy before me said, these are ringed engines and require a tolerant, proper break-in. If you run them too lean you will ruin them. Seek some knowledgeable assistance on tuning and you will not only be satisfied, you will be amazed at how friendly these inexpensive engines can be. I got some folks that George Aldrich had tutored on these engine to help me and have been a fan of them ever since. Proper tank pressure and unrestricted fuel flow are essential to any glow engines proper performance. Good luck with your 2300. Both of mine love an APC 17X6 or 18X6 prop.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

0% or max 5% nitro. McCoy 59 [sm=thumbup.gif] or pay a premium for an OS F plug.[sm=drowning.gif]
Do NOT run Cool Power or any 10% or higher nitro fuel. This engine needs Castor and very little or no nitro to run properly.
I have mine (2300) inverted in a WM Cap 232. The first few flights I had nothing but deadsticks and got very frustrated like numerous other people that have purchased this engine. Late nights surfing the net reading forums all pointed to low or no nitro and castor oil - min 18%.
Since switching to Power Master 5% 22% oil, the last time I had a dead stick, I ran out of fuel...

geeter

My Feedback: (110)

i have a new super tigre 2300, made in china. it runs great. you need to put constant glow on the engine and see the difference. os # 8 plug,2 1500 mah batterys hooked to a switch,near the radio switch. a glow driver head on the plug. put the starter on, turn it over, you can use a reg 12 volt starter,but must use a lawn tractor type battery on the starter or you won't have enough amp draw with a reg hobby battery,say7-8 amp type. turn the engine over and flip the switch. it should start right up. leave it on during the entire flight or test run. if you shut it off while it's running the motor will go rich as hell, and won't run as good. these batteys last five or six ten minute flights. take the the glow head off and charge with your glo charger as normal, for the next time. remember to turn the switch on while charging or you won't be completing the charging circuit. works great for me in my goldberg 72 " sukohi. i run a 18-8 apc prop and 10% omaga fuel..................RON