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SK ENGINES

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Old 09-01-2006, 05:27 AM
  #26
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Hi Ed,when do you think will be able to try your SK babies too?To hear comments and experiments from an experienced guy like you will be useful for me.
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Old 09-01-2006, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Artisan


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ckangaroo70

I think a 14X6 would probally be a good all purpose prop for this engine, but we'll see.
The only thing greater than watching a new Plane take flight, is the feeling you got knowing that you built it yourself. Support your Kit Cutters and Manufacturers!



----------------


Responding to your signature line:

Ermmm, if I was going to get all warm and fuzzy about building it myself, I would have to cut out the parts too. <G>
A guy could get a blister on his hand doing that!LOL I really admire those who cut there own kits by hand, and build from scratch. I prefer to build from a box of wood where alot of the parts, or at least the wing ribs have allready been done. Alot of good kits have dissapeared over the last few years, and I really enjoy building a good kit, so hence my signature. It may be that someday my only option will be to build from scratch if the market for kits keeps going the way it is going.
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:44 AM
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I got my SK 50 on Wednesday and broke it in on the test stand yesterday. I followed the instructions to a "T". Talk about pinch. This is a tight engine, much tighter than my 46ax was out of the box. Well it idles down nice and transitions without a hiccup. I have thrown it in my old nexstar ( the 46ax went into my midwest aerobat ) and will be going to the field this afternoon to give it a shakedown, unless it rains. I will let you all know how she does. I think we have a great $60.00 motor to play with.
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:40 PM
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Well the SK 50 ran like a champ. It would idle for at least a minute and not hesitate on transition. Everyone at the field was quite interested in the new motor. We spent a lot of time on the bench just checking everything out and tweaking the carb. What was interesting is we set it to be a bit rich with a tach, and then held the plane nose high, and it leaned out real quick. We added 3 more clicks and that did the trick. 6 tanks thru the engine now and I am quite happy. No deadsticks, a smooth idle at about 2600 RPM. Hope to go lower as it breaks in. I think it has as much or more power than the 46AX - at 1/2 the cost. The plane seems faster but the mind can play tricks on you when you want all things to go well!!!! I wish I had 2 identical planes to compare the SK 50 VS the 46AX. Bottom line.... best $60.00 bucks I have spent in a while!
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Old 09-01-2006, 09:56 PM
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Default RE: SK ENGINES

Glad to hear the SK 50 did well for you. My SK 90 is running so flawless, I decided to order another SK 90 just to have on hand. I can't believe they will stay at those prices for long, so I figured I had better snag another one up on the cheap!
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:48 PM
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Well I received my SK 50 yesterday and today it was bolted to the test stand and ran twice. I followed their break-in procedure and during the first run the carburetor was sticking when I tried to close or open it and after the second run the carb. barrel would not turn at all. Need to call Kangke tomorrow.

Will keep you posted.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:28 AM
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ORIGINAL: Oldbob

Well I received my SK 50 yesterday and today it was bolted to the test stand and ran twice. I followed their break-in procedure and during the first run the carburetor was sticking when I tried to close or open it and after the second run the carb. barrel would not turn at all. Need to call Kangke tomorrow.

Will keep you posted.

--------------------


I have had engines of all brands do exactly what you are describing.

The problem is a piece of flashing that has jammed the carb barrel at the slot where the travel limit screw protrudes into the throttle barrel.

Remove this screw and you'll be able to slide the throttle barrel out with a little effort. Check the throttle barrel for flashing near the screw slot. Most likely, the flashing will be in the carb body. A few gentle swipes with some emory cloth or 400 wet or dry will rid you of the problem. I've had Enya engines with this problem. If it can happen to an Enya, it can happen to any engine. No biggie. <G>
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:29 AM
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ORIGINAL: Turk1

Hi Ed,when do you think will be able to try your SK babies too?To hear comments and experiments from an experienced guy like you will be useful for me.

------------


It won't be long now. The temps are finally beginning to drop to something that I can handle. Perhaps in a couple of weeks.
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Old 09-02-2006, 03:16 AM
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Default RE: SK ENGINES

OldBob I have heard same problem from another SK owner and heard also after sales service of Kangke was great from him.But like Artisan, I recommend you to play a little with carb and after checking, excersize it by manually to prevent it from future sticks.Im so happy with my SK 50 s and I think you will too.
Also I wonder who will be the first to try a Tower muffler on a SK to compare the potancial power of SK s.
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Old 09-03-2006, 08:45 PM
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My 1st SK 90 is running excellent, but had some trouble today with the SK 90 I just recieved a few days ago. After the third tank today it was transitioning great, and even had a nice idle running on the rich side. Decided it was running well enough to take it up in my Hog Bipe which I was using for the test Plane. The Hog normally has a Mag 4 stroke mounted on the nose, but it makes a good test vehicle since the engine is easy to access, and the Plane is a great flyer. 30 seconds after take off a clunk noise occurred and she locked up solid. After a rough deadstick landing I inspected the engine, and found that the crankshaft had broke where the piston rod connects. I am hoping that this engine just had a weak spot in the crank, and is not a sign of what might happen to the other SK 90 I have which is running fantastic so far. My buddy checked the head temp with his laser temp gauge and she read a cool 130-140 degrees, which is not surprising since she was still running on the slobery rich side. Actually it was running along just wonderful up until the time the crank broke. No sign that it was comming or anything. So I got home and sent an email off to Kangke. I've heard there customer service is pretty good, so hopefully they will honor the warranty and either fix it or replace it. I just recieved the engine a couple days ago, so now it seems I am going to have to send it right back off. Well crap happens sometimes, and hopefully this is an uncommon occurence. I have been thrilled with my SK engines right up to the point of that crank breaking, and if it proves to be an uncommon occurence I am sure I will continue to be impressed in the future.
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Old 09-03-2006, 09:11 PM
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Default RE: SK ENGINES

Artisan & Turk, thanks for the input. I took the carb apart and found that the venturi hole in the barrel had a sharp edge sticking outward and cut a deep grove into the carb housing. I used a small file and removed the sharp edges. Now the barrel turns easy but I wonder if I am sucking air into the engine that is not going through the venturi?? The engine runs at 12,500 peak and steady at about 12,000+ with an APC 11X6. Does this sound about right?

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Old 09-03-2006, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: ckangaroo70

My 1st SK 90 is running excellent, but had some trouble today with the SK 90 I just recieved a few days ago. After the third tank today it was transitioning great, and even had a nice idle running on the rich side. Decided it was running well enough to take it up in my Hog Bipe which I was using for the test Plane. The Hog normally has a Mag 4 stroke mounted on the nose, but it makes a good test vehicle since the engine is easy to access, and the Plane is a great flyer. 30 seconds after take off a clunk noise occurred and she locked up solid. After a rough deadstick landing I inspected the engine, and found that the crankshaft had broke where the piston rod connects. I am hoping that this engine just had a weak spot in the crank, and is not a sign of what might happen to the other SK 90 I have which is running fantastic so far. My buddy checked the head temp with his laser temp gauge and she read a cool 130-140 degrees, which is not surprising since she was still running on the slobery rich side. Actually it was running along just wonderful up until the time the crank broke. No sign that it was comming or anything. So I got home and sent an email off to Kangke. I've heard there customer service is pretty good, so hopefully they will honor the warranty and either fix it or replace it. I just recieved the engine a couple days ago, so now it seems I am going to have to send it right back off. Well crap happens sometimes, and hopefully this is an uncommon occurence. I have been thrilled with my SK engines right up to the point of that crank breaking, and if it proves to be an uncommon occurence I am sure I will continue to be impressed in the future.

---------------


If the .90 that broke the crankpin is ABC, you just found out why you NEVER run an ABC engine slobbery rich. This is precisely why you do not do it that way these days. ABC engines are supposed to be ran in a slightly rich two-stroke. If the engine is four-stroking, it does not come up to temperature and the pinch at the top stays tight. When this happens just a bit of running in this fashion can shear the crankpin. Sorry this happened to you.
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Old 09-03-2006, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Oldbob

Artisan & Turk, thanks for the input. I took the carb apart and found that the venturi hole in the barrel had a sharp edge sticking outward and cut a deep grove into the carb housing. I used a small file and removed the sharp edges. Now the barrel turns easy but I wonder if I am sucking air into the engine that is not going through the venturi?? The engine runs at 12,500 peak and steady at about 12,000+ with an APC 11X6. Does this sound about right?

oldbob

---------------


The peak rpm sounds about right. This is a new engine that will probably gain close to another 500 rpm over time, putting it right where the winners in this class are running at. I think you are home free with this one.

Oil from the fuel will fill in around the carb barrel fit and will plug it up sufficiently. Besides, all you really should care about is how the engine is running and leave the fitting worries to the manufacturer. Your engine sounds as though it is running perfectly from your description.
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Old 09-03-2006, 11:59 PM
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Default RE: SK ENGINES

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Artisan


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ckangaroo70

My 1st SK 90 is running excellent, but had some trouble today with the SK 90 I just recieved a few days ago. After the third tank today it was transitioning great, and even had a nice idle running on the rich side. Decided it was running well enough to take it up in my Hog Bipe which I was using for the test Plane. The Hog normally has a Mag 4 stroke mounted on the nose, but it makes a good test vehicle since the engine is easy to access, and the Plane is a great flyer. 30 seconds after take off a clunk noise occurred and she locked up solid. After a rough deadstick landing I inspected the engine, and found that the crankshaft had broke where the piston rod connects. I am hoping that this engine just had a weak spot in the crank, and is not a sign of what might happen to the other SK 90 I have which is running fantastic so far. My buddy checked the head temp with his laser temp gauge and she read a cool 130-140 degrees, which is not surprising since she was still running on the slobery rich side. Actually it was running along just wonderful up until the time the crank broke. No sign that it was comming or anything. So I got home and sent an email off to Kangke. I've heard there customer service is pretty good, so hopefully they will honor the warranty and either fix it or replace it. I just recieved the engine a couple days ago, so now it seems I am going to have to send it right back off. Well crap happens sometimes, and hopefully this is an uncommon occurence. I have been thrilled with my SK engines right up to the point of that crank breaking, and if it proves to be an uncommon occurence I am sure I will continue to be impressed in the future.

---------------


If the .90 that broke the crankpin is ABC, you just found out why you NEVER run an ABC engine slobbery rich. This is precisely why you do not do it that way these days. ABC engines are supposed to be ran in a slightly rich two-stroke. If the engine is four-stroking, it does not come up to temperature and the pinch at the top stays tight. When this happens just a bit of running in this fashion can shear the crankpin. Sorry this happened to you.
I was there today as he was breaking in that motor. In fact I was helping
him with the tuning. The SK 90 is a ringed motor not ABC. And it was
not really running "slobbery" rich. It was running a very rich two cycle.
Not 4 cycling at all. Like ckangaroo70 said...there was no warning.
Everything was going fine until it broke.

Mike Hammer
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:23 AM
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Default RE: SK ENGINES


Quote:
ORIGINAL: XTOL

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Artisan


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ckangaroo70

My 1st SK 90 is running excellent, but had some trouble today with the SK 90 I just recieved a few days ago. After the third tank today it was transitioning great, and even had a nice idle running on the rich side. Decided it was running well enough to take it up in my Hog Bipe which I was using for the test Plane. The Hog normally has a Mag 4 stroke mounted on the nose, but it makes a good test vehicle since the engine is easy to access, and the Plane is a great flyer. 30 seconds after take off a clunk noise occurred and she locked up solid. After a rough deadstick landing I inspected the engine, and found that the crankshaft had broke where the piston rod connects. I am hoping that this engine just had a weak spot in the crank, and is not a sign of what might happen to the other SK 90 I have which is running fantastic so far. My buddy checked the head temp with his laser temp gauge and she read a cool 130-140 degrees, which is not surprising since she was still running on the slobery rich side. Actually it was running along just wonderful up until the time the crank broke. No sign that it was comming or anything. So I got home and sent an email off to Kangke. I've heard there customer service is pretty good, so hopefully they will honor the warranty and either fix it or replace it. I just recieved the engine a couple days ago, so now it seems I am going to have to send it right back off. Well crap happens sometimes, and hopefully this is an uncommon occurence. I have been thrilled with my SK engines right up to the point of that crank breaking, and if it proves to be an uncommon occurence I am sure I will continue to be impressed in the future.

---------------


If the .90 that broke the crankpin is ABC, you just found out why you NEVER run an ABC engine slobbery rich. This is precisely why you do not do it that way these days. ABC engines are supposed to be ran in a slightly rich two-stroke. If the engine is four-stroking, it does not come up to temperature and the pinch at the top stays tight. When this happens just a bit of running in this fashion can shear the crankpin. Sorry this happened to you.
I was there today as he was breaking in that motor. In fact I was helping
him with the tuning. The SK 90 is a ringed motor not ABC. And it was
not really running "slobbery" rich. It was running a very rich two cycle.
Not 4 cycling at all. Like ckangaroo70 said...there was no warning.
Everything was going fine until it broke.

Mike Hammer

------------------


He said it was slobbery rich in his post. He did not say that it was ringed. My .80 is ringed too, but I noticed that later engines appear to be ABC.

Anyway, sorry to hear of his misfortune. Hopefully, the distributor will make it right.
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:57 AM
  #41
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Default RE: SK ENGINES

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Artisan


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ckangaroo70

My 1st SK 90 is running excellent, but had some trouble today with the SK 90 I just recieved a few days ago. After the third tank today it was transitioning great, and even had a nice idle running on the rich side. Decided it was running well enough to take it up in my Hog Bipe which I was using for the test Plane. The Hog normally has a Mag 4 stroke mounted on the nose, but it makes a good test vehicle since the engine is easy to access, and the Plane is a great flyer. 30 seconds after take off a clunk noise occurred and she locked up solid. After a rough deadstick landing I inspected the engine, and found that the crankshaft had broke where the piston rod connects. I am hoping that this engine just had a weak spot in the crank, and is not a sign of what might happen to the other SK 90 I have which is running fantastic so far. My buddy checked the head temp with his laser temp gauge and she read a cool 130-140 degrees, which is not surprising since she was still running on the slobery rich side. Actually it was running along just wonderful up until the time the crank broke. No sign that it was comming or anything. So I got home and sent an email off to Kangke. I've heard there customer service is pretty good, so hopefully they will honor the warranty and either fix it or replace it. I just recieved the engine a couple days ago, so now it seems I am going to have to send it right back off. Well crap happens sometimes, and hopefully this is an uncommon occurence. I have been thrilled with my SK engines right up to the point of that crank breaking, and if it proves to be an uncommon occurence I am sure I will continue to be impressed in the future.

---------------


If the .90 that broke the crankpin is ABC, you just found out why you NEVER run an ABC engine slobbery rich. This is precisely why you do not do it that way these days. ABC engines are supposed to be ran in a slightly rich two-stroke. If the engine is four-stroking, it does not come up to temperature and the pinch at the top stays tight. When this happens just a bit of running in this fashion can shear the crankpin. Sorry this happened to you.
ITS A RINGED engine. The websites that sell them do have them advertised as ABC which is incorrect. They are ringed. Hence the SK 90 AR, "R" standing for RING.
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:36 PM
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I too have a SK 90 and it runs so nice but did have one problem it would slowly lean out when in the air. No mater what we did it still would lean out and heat up but never dead-stick so I called the Tech. support and asked them and this is what they said. The first thing he asked was what prop I had on it and I told him it was a 14x8 mas and was told that it was to small to go to a 15x6 or 15x8 . what was happing was that in the air it would unload and get over 11000 rpm and it is not ported for RPM over 11500 so it would lean out once I put on the bigger prop no more lean condition and runs like a champ.
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mitchmcf

I too have a SK 90 and it runs so nice but did have one problem it would slowly lean out when in the air. No mater what we did it still would lean out and heat up but never dead-stick so I called the Tech. support and asked them and this is what they said. The first thing he asked was what prop I had on it and I told him it was a 14x8 mas and was told that it was to small to go to a 15x6 or 15x8 . what was happing was that in the air it would unload and get over 11000 rpm and it is not ported for RPM over 11500 so it would lean out once I put on the bigger prop no more lean condition and runs like a champ.

------------------


What a crock!

Overloading an engine heats it up too much and advances the timing too far. The symptoms of having the timing advanced too far is an apparent leaning out of the engine and overheating. The correction to retard the timing can be accomplished in several ways. One can reduce the prop load, one can reduce the compression, one can drop to a cooler heat range glow plug, or one can reduce the nitro content in the fuel. All of this is prefaced upon the engine having adequate cooling air.

A 13x8 or a 14x6 is more appropriate for a .91 two-stroke. Also, being a ringed engine, it is going to need some break-in time running rich to seat the ring and to keep it cooled off during break-in.

If an engine runs past its porting/timing, nothing is harmed unless it is ridiculously high. Breaking-in ringed engines is done with a smaller prop than the normal flying prop, not a larger prop.

There have been no changes in technology that would warrant this advice. Someone doesn't know what they are talking about.
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:44 PM
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Well here is what I am dealing with. Top end OK 12K+ but no idle below 3500- 4000 RPM. There must be air going around the carb barrel instead or through the venturi. I called Kangeke today and they are sending me a new carburetor. So far I think Kangeke is a great company to do business with. I will keep you posted, hopefully with better results after I receive the new carb.

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Old 09-05-2006, 09:51 PM
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Matchmcb, there are only three things the will cause an engine to overheat in the air. (I am assuming that it dose not overheat on the ground). First; the needle valve is set at peak RPM on the ground and when the plane is put into a clime it will go a little lean. At first this may not be noticed, but as the plane is flying through a few beautiful maneuvers the engine is going lean each time the nose is above the fuel tank and the engine is getting hotter and hotter, but still not hot enough for you to hear a problem. Also as the flight goes on the fuel level in the tank is getting lower and lower and this also causing the engine to get leaner. If this is your problem the cure is to set the high-speed needle at 300 to 500 RPM rich when the tank is only 1/3 to ½ full, not a full tank. When you fill the tank the engine may be 400 to 600 RPM rich but do not touch the needle. The engine should not go lean in the air and over-heat.

Second; if the engine is in a plane with a cowling it can overheat if not enough cooling air is going over the engine and straight out. The rule of thumb is that the outlet opening must be at least two or three times the area of the inlet opening and (this is important) the cooling air must pass over the hottest parts of the engine and then exit the cowl. Often cowlings trap the hot air and engines overheat because the air inside the cowling is getting hotter. If this is the problem then build a duct or baffle so that cooling air goes in, over the hot engine and straight out. Don’t let hot air swirl around inside the cowl.

The third thing is bad fuel. What is bad fuel? I don’t know. All I know is that when I throw it away my engines run better and cooler.

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Old 09-05-2006, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Oldbob

Well here is what I am dealing with. Top end OK 12K+ but no idle below 3500- 4000 RPM. There must be air going around the carb barrel instead or through the venturi. I called Kangeke today and they are sending me a new carburetor. So far I think Kangeke is a great company to do business with. I will keep you posted, hopefully with better results after I receive the new carb.

oldbob

--------------


I have dealt with Kangke in the last year on three purchases and have been happy with all but one correspondence. I'm wondering now if it occurred after the latest folks took over. It was a minor thing. I asked them if the CAP 232 that I purchased from them would be happy with a Brillelli 46cc. They said they did not know, but they knew it would be happy with one of their Brison 40cc engines. Huh? I felt that was just an effort to get me to buy one of their engines and was not an honest answer. Although, if the new owners just bought the business and did not know what they were doing, it could explain the answer I got.

Of course, the old axiom, "Ask a stupid question - get a stupid answer" could be applied too. <G>

Good luck with your engine.
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:25 PM
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I thought the same thing and tryed doing everything you said thats when I alled there tech saport and when I put on the 15x6 it has been running fine ever since it will turn the 15x6 around 10k on the bench.the tech rep stated that the 90 is happy around 11k to 11500 it is not a high rpm .
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mitchmcf

I thought the same thing and tryed doing everything you said thats when I alled there tech saport and when I put on the 15x6 it has been running fine ever since it will turn the 15x6 around 10k on the bench.the tech rep stated that the 90 is happy around 11k to 11500 it is not a high rpm .

--------------


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Old 09-06-2006, 08:49 AM
  #49
OVER WORKED
 
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Default RE: SK ENGINES

Ok, I’ve been avoiding this thread but I think a couple of things should be set straight. So this is the one and only time I will reply to it. If you choose to believe me, that’s fine, if not that’s fine too... We sell over 150 engines a month, And I have been dong the tech support on them for 6 years. About 3% are returned with real problems, the rest of the customers just need a little help getting them dialed in.
1} Yes we have had a problem with sticking carbs, the clearance between the body and the barrel is too tight, and occasionally a deformation producing an edge at the venturi opening. The problem occurs in about 1 in every 75 motors. The new carb design is in testing now.
2} even though the engines are ringed we still run cylinder taper, so we need heat to expand the top for correct break-in. Four-stroking is bad in all our engines.
3} We did make the 75-90’s in both ring and ABC, the ABC has been discontinued, seems we cant get people out of the old habit of four stroking them during break-in and they were scoring the cylinder/piston and eating crank pins.
4} Artisian’s post#43 is wrong. Several things happen when the engine runs out of port timing that are sometimes difficult to understand. It’s not the same as closing the throttle and restricting the air. Some of the symptoms are fuel leakage from the back plate gasket or the front bearing, the engine will go lean, and you will see excessive cyl. head temp. The reason for this is the crankcase takes a full charge but it can’t get it up through the ports to the top end. As the piston comes down crankcase pressure becomes excessive and it has to go somewhere. On occasion you will notice fuel that actually spits out the carb, or some of the other symptoms of reversion.
5} our engine are ported for a max RPM between 11,000 and 12,500 depending on the displacement. Short port timing allows the engine to produce more torque, but restricts RPM. They like larger diameter props.
6} We use a very hard chrome on the liner that takes longer to break in than most other engines, most don’t develop full power for several gallons of fuel, again depending on the displacement and SPFC.
8} there have been enormous strides made in engine development and design in just the last couple years alone, partly do to metallurgy and a better understanding of flow dynamics. They are getting lighter, more powerful and more user friendly. What was standard just a few years ago no longer applies to some designs.
9} be careful what advice you take from the threads on the net, here or elsewhere. I can’t tell you how many times I have heard someone tell me “I’ve been doing it that way for 30 years, it’s always worked and I ‘m not about to stop now”. People with that attitude are idiots, avoid them. If it was true we would all be using AM transmitters and building our airplanes with Ambroid and carpenters glue.
10} Kangke has not changed owners, the man who started it still owens it, Peter Ma.
11} I was not trying to sell Artisian a Brison engine for his Cap 232-120, here is the exact wording of my e-mail to him, you decide for yourself.
“Ed,
I don't know too much about the Brillelli engines, I can tell you that a Brison 2.4 {40cc} is all the engine the airframe can handle.
Also the firewall was not designed to carry an engine weight greater that 3 lbs 5 oz.”


As I said I will not respond again to this post.
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Old 09-06-2006, 11:01 AM
  #50
buzzingb
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
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Default RE: SK ENGINES

OverWorked I like what you have to say.
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