Rudeboy

What do you guys use to clean engines that have a "castor past"? I mean the brown and black varnish and laquer that sits between the cooling ribs.

I've used paint stripper in the past with adequate but not perfect results, but this stuff is nasty to work with. It gives burns on skin and you still have to rub and brush the parts hard, so the stuff gets everywhere...

jmercer52

My Feedback: (14)

Rudeboy, have you tried the "crockpot/antifreeze" method? Personally, I like to use Chevron Engine Cleaner myself. Also "Devil Clean" in the can is real good. The antifreeze is what a lot of flyers use and is the cheapest too.
An old engine that hasn't been cleaned in a long time, may get real loose when you remove the varnish and will loose power. So I try to keep my engines clean from the start by cleaning at least once a month. It helps to keep the engine cooler during running too.
Suptter

Rudeboy

Explain a little please, my english is quite good, but some specific term can pose some problems...

How does this work? You just boil the parts in pure car antifreeze? Should the stuff be really boiling hot? How long do you have to boil it? That will depend on how dirty the engine is probably, but give me an idea...

I don't worry too much about the engine coming loose. The cilinder liner is in excellent condition, and the piston has just a little brown varnish on the skirt. I guess I won't be cleaning the piston.

Is true the synthetic lubricants dissolve all the "castor crap" in engines when you switch from castor to synthetic?

jmercer52

My Feedback: (14)

Rudeboy,
Just get a crock pot and turn it up on high, pour some antifreeze into it (enough to cover the engine parts) and just let it cook for a couple of hours. I don't like to do this indoors because of the smell. I also disassemble the engine before cleaning and remove all plastic and rubber parts so as not to damage them. Grab an old tooth brush and give the parts a good scrubbing every hour or so until the parts are clean. Wash the parts in HOT water, lube with some oil and reassemble the engine.
Suptter

Frankenthumb

My Feedback: (2)

I've heard that oven cleaner works well also, but you have to be careful because it will discolor the aluminum. Has anybody tried using oven cleaner?

Frank

jmercer52

My Feedback: (14)

Yes,.....DON"T Your right, it will turn it dark.

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

Crock pot full of anti-freeze. Take the carb off. Set on LOW over night. I had mine in the basement didnt stink up the house. Atleast I didnt get any complaints about it. I've done several engines this way and it works great. JT

downunder-RCU

There are two types of oven cleaner..one is labelled for use on iron and the other for aluminium. The iron cleaner WILL turn alloy grey but obviously the other won't or there'd be a lot of upset housewives

Simply spray it on, let it foam for maybe 30 seconds or so then scrub with a toothbrush (preferably someone else's). Rinse under a tap while scrubbing and you're done.

I always do the top of the engine first so I can hold the crankcase then do the remainder while holding the cylinder. The cleaner will burn your skin if you're not careful. But it's fast and very effective.

Rudeboy

Thanks for the info guys.

I will give both methods a try.

Ernie Misner

Was the origional post about how to clean the external cooling fins and keep them clean after a day's flying? Most of the posts seem to be talking about disassembling the engine and cleaning it inside and out.

Now.... what can be done to keep the engine "externally" looking shiny and new - such as a toothbrush to the exterior after each flying session? So far I have just been using a toothbrush on the engine's exterior with some of the windex or alcohol that I have been cleaning the plane's exterior with after each flying session.

What about just a dab of oven cleaner or engine cleaner on the ol' toothbrush?

Ernie

Rudeboy

No, it really was about cleaning an old engine with a lot of crap between the fins...

skycom

I cleaned my engine succesfully using the 'boil in antifreeze' method and a toothbrush. Came up like new but left a funny taste on the toothbrush, but my teeth have never been so clean

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

good to know you're still kicking. don't do that, seriously because the antifreeze is real toxic. keep it away from kids and don't ever use the crockpot for cooking anymore............

Perminator-RCU

pssst... I don't think he was serious

Plane_Nutz

I have been using the antifreeze in the crockpot method for years and it works great. I always take the head and backplate off so the antifreeze will get to the varnish and crud inside the engine. I also find that the engines actually seem to run better when cleaned up on the inside. I cook my engines on low for a couple of days.

Now, I just want to reinforce what RJUL was saying. NEVER use the crockpot to cook food again. The porcelain will absorb the antifreeze and then leach back into the food and you will get very sick, or worse. And don’t cook it anywhere people can breath the fumes. I set mine outside while it’s cooking.

I keep my crockpot under my work bench in the shop and use it only to clean engines. It works so good that I clean my engines regularly and they always look like new and run great. Even old engines, that don't seem to run so good anymore, can sometimes be rejuvenated by a crockpot bath. Take the carb apart and it will get all the crud out of all the nooks and crannies.

Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

Beware of the fact that the aroma of antifreeze seems to attract cats....and they apparently enjoy the taste...and then of course, they will die. PLEASE, keep your antifreeze safely stored so that children and pets cannot get into it. Cooking the motor in anti freeze is best done outdoors to avoid the fumes, but I have done it without any problem in my garage, which is well ventilated.
"Cooking" our motors in a crack pot of anti freeze is a great way to clean them, and fairly easy to do. After removing the carb' and any part that may be damaged by heat or chemicals, (such as an o-ring) I cook mine overnight, more or less, (time is not critical) on low, and rinse them in running water in the morning. No scrubbung at all. You may simply leave the anti freeze in the pot for the next cleaning, or you can filter it back into its jug using a large funnel and any sort of filter...sponge, paper, whatever is handy. You'll see lots of crud trapped in the filter. Mark the crock pot with the ever popular "skull and crossbones" so that no one will ever try to use it for food!!!

DUCATI996

Has anyone tried Carburetor Cleaners? Somethig like STP or Motul in spray ?

GL

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

For just a clean up on head & fins I would use paint remover. Zip strip makes it in several strengths,I use the one that will remove the most coats of paint. You can do in minutes what the others take hours or days to do. Carb cleaner will just clean oil & dirt off. Good cleaner to use at field if you dump your plane in the dirt!>>>>>>big max 1935

Ernie Misner

>> After removing the carb' and any part that may be damaged by heat or chemicals, (such as an o-ring) I cook mine overnight, more or less, (time is not critical) on low, and rinse them in running water in the morning.............

Hmmm, questions: I assume you are leaving the piston, sleeve, crank, and bearings in there. Would this be harmful to phenolic caged bearings - don't they have a non-metal type of cage?

Also, is anybody using dishwashing detergent instead of antifreeze? I think it was Clarence Lee that recommended that in the pan or crockpot.

Ernie

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Ducati996, and others, yeah, I use Gummout "Jet spray" to get the outside rinsed, then put the engine in a glass container, minus plastic + etc. parts listed above, and cover it w/ the liquid Gummout that comes in a screw top can...Works great, and fast(if you're in a hurry?) A little scrubbing w/an old tooth brush on stubborn areas if ness. (STP carb. cleaner works good too) Wear goggles when using the spray stuff cuz it'll go flyin everywhere! And do it outside...A H.D. rubber glove is a good idea too, when using ANY of the aforementioned chemicals.

Ernie Misner

Rinsing with water inside and out?

Aren't you setting up for rust and corrosion? Or do you thoroughly douse the whole engine in oil right away?

Ernie

C_Watkins

My Feedback: (10)

Rinsing inside and out with water is a standard procedure after most chemical treatments.
It prevents any chemical residue from etching bearings and doing other damage.
Yes, you could coat with a light oil immediately afterwards,
or just thoroughly dry,
reassemble, and get it running again soon. The heat will take care of any remaining moisture.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

What is the actual antifreeze temp at the crock pot "low" setting?

Rudeboy

After an antifreeze treatment, rincing with water is a good idea because antifreeze dissolves well in water.

But I wouldn't dry my engine thoroughly and then get it running without lubricating it thoroughly. Just rince the engine in a bit of fuel. We all know we have to keep our fuel cannisters well shut because methanol is hygroscopic, so a rince with fuel will 1) take care of the water, and 2) lubricate the engine.

C_Watkins

My Feedback: (10)

Sorry... it's a "given", to me, to lubricate an engine upon assembly.
I assume too much sometimes, I guess